Weigela: planting and care in the open ground

A flowering shrub with a beautiful name seems exotic to our gardeners, but in fact it deserves to take a place in the flower bed, both by right of origin and by its beauty. If you still do not enjoy the lush flowering and fragrance, be sure to get acquainted with the weigela, because planting in the open ground and caring for it are not as difficult as they seem.

The role of weigels in landscape design

Weigela is a perennial shrub related to honeysuckle.

Landscape designers love Weigel for two features. Firstly, this shrub blooms twice a year, so it is easier to make a flowerbed of continuous flowering with it. The second highlight is the change in the shade of the flowers. The buds that have just opened are bright and the fully opened buds are bright. Weigela simply amazes with the play of shades in each flower cluster.

The lush tall bush of the Weigela looks great on the background of the lawn

Usually weigela begins to bloom in mid-May and only ends in mid-June. Summer flowering is the most beautiful and magnificent, often greens are not visible behind the buds. In late August, the bush is again covered with inflorescences, but on a more modest scale. Flowers remain on the weigel until the very end of September.

Landscape designers use this shrub:

  • in single landings as a bright accent on the lawn;

    A weigel stamp looks no worse than pink

  • in group plantings for covering bare tree trunks, especially with openwork crown;

    The slightly tattered weigel bush contrasts perfectly with the tall cone of the spruce.

  • on alpine hills and rockeries (mainly low-growing varieties);

    Dwarf Weigela will become a bright spot on the background of rough cobblestones

  • as hedges (tall) and mixborders (low and medium).

    Even a small heigel from weigel can transform a boring gray fence

That is, in almost any role that other decorative shrubs play, weigel can come in handy. By the way, thanks to the varietal variety of the bush, beautiful compositions can be created from different subspecies of weigel.

The plant grows well next to coniferous species traditional for rockeries, as well as other shrubs: spirea, cotoneaster, viburnum (better Buldenezh), barberry, Japanese quince.

Climatic requirements

In nature, weigela grows in Central Asia, more than 15 varieties of this plant are found there. Only three species are found on the territory of the Russian Federation; all of them grow in the southeast of the country.

If you have come across an early Weigel, Middendorff or pleasant sale, you should know that these are wild species. They will grow well in the Far East, but are not adapted to a more severe climate.

Varietal weigels came to us from Europe, where they were popularized by a professor of botany named von Weigel. Therefore, they are quite resistant to cold climates and feel great in the middle zone of the Russian Federation under the open sky.

Automate the watering of weigels is a great way to ensure that the moisture-loving plant has the correct moisture regime

Weigela prefers fertile soil with a large amount of humus, an alkaline or neutral reaction, and good aeration (loose or loosened). It is extremely important not to allow waterlogging, otherwise a plant accustomed to a drier climate will quickly die.

If your region has acidic soil or you cannot provide the weigel with the correct moisture regime, it is better to grow this shrub in a tub. If on the site there is a sufficiently dry place and you are ready, if necessary, to make the necessary fertilizers and to regulate the reaction of the soil, it is quite acceptable to land.

Usually weigela grows in a tub until it reaches the age of three

Popular varieties

Weigela is incredibly diverse in color and flower shape, bush height and crown characteristics. Thanks to the efforts of specialists, every gardener can find a variety of this shrub that fully meets his needs and tastes. Among the most famous subspecies of Weigel:

  • Bristol Ruby is a tall subspecies of hybrid origin. Well suited for single plantings and hedges, grows up to 2.3 m in diameter and up to 3.5 m in height. It got its name because of the red-ruby flowers blooming in June-July. Quickly recovers after pruning;
  • Nana Variegata is a slow growing dwarf variety developed specifically for rockeries. The leaves are white-motley, and this is a marker of photophilous varieties. Flowers are collected in inflorescences of 3-4, have a pale pink or raspberry color;
  • Middendorff is a natural species of medium-sized shrub (1–1.5 m). Leaves are bright green with a bilateral edge along the veins. The flowers are medium yellow, grow individually or 2-6 on one peduncle. Blooms twice in our climate for 25-30 days. Weigela Middendorff is the only subspecies that easily tolerates the acid reaction of the soil and grows on peaty soil;
  • Candida is a tall variety with white flowers. It is popular with foreign gardeners.
  • Eva Ratke is a Polish hybrid of Korean and flowering Weigela. The bush has a height of 0.7–1 m, the crown is compact. Tubular flowers of carmine hue with shine appear in July-August. Growth rate is moderate. Needs shelter for the winter.

The most beautiful varieties of Weigela in the photo

The natural form of Weigel Korean is one of the few varieties that can be propagated by seeds.

Large ruby ​​bells in small inflorescences - the visiting card of Weigela Bristol Ruby

Dwarf Weigela Nana Variegata looks very gentle and romantic

The Nana Purpurea variety is easy to recognize by purple flowers against a background of dark burgundy green leaves

Weigela Red Prince differs not so much in red flowers as in characteristic wavy leaves

Pink flowers with an elongated funnel and dark reddish leaves confirm that in front of you weigel Alexander

Nature itself endowed the Weigel Middendorff with such graceful white flowers with a contrasting center

Veigela Candida with her white flowers will definitely appeal to lovers of jasmine and mock

At first glance, Eva Ratke is similar to the Red Prince, but she is issued by more flat leaf blades

Weigela Carnival is just a holiday in shades of pink

The variety of Sunny Princesses is one of the most tender and noble

Veigela Victoria is related to Alexandra, only the flower funnels are shorter and the leaves are wider

The Ruby Star is not just another variety with red flowers, its tone of petals contrasts less with the shade of foliage

Japanese Weigela - Another Natural Masterpiece

You can recognize the Olympiad variety by the petals of fuchsia color and the bright light green tone of the wide leaf plates

Weigela variegated stands out among relatives with a light edging of leaf plates

Weigela All Sammé Red strongly resembles Bristol Ruby, but it can be distinguished by rich red colors without a crimson tint

Sunny Princesses are not always soft pink, she can be bright

This weigela can definitely become the star of your flowerbed

Japanese Weigela is always ready to surprise with a variety of forms

Weigela Olympics is notable for the yellow-green hue of the leaves

White flowers with a pink center go well with the variegated leaves of this weigela

It is easy to see that Alexandra and Victoria are close relatives of the Minor Black variety

Weigela Rosea is a girl's dream come true

Weigela Ebony and Ivory is a harmonious combination of ivory flowers and almost ebony shoots with dark leaves

Weigela Coin looks very decorative even when there are no flowers on it

Weigela Tango's fragrance will cheer you up no worse than a dance of the same name

In the autumn, the Wigel Wings Of Fire really resembles a burning fire

Young leaves of Victoria Weigela are olive in color and only darken over time

Weigela Pink Poppet during the flowering period eclipses the beauty of any rose

Despite the negative associations with the name, Weigela Lucifer is a luxuriously beautiful shrub.

Brigella is a classic representative of the Weigel species, it is with that the first associations arise at the mention of this word

Even if you do not like pink shades, flowering Weigela Florida will not leave you indifferent

Another pink weigel with a dance name - Minuet

In this variety, the creators tried to enhance the contrast between white flowers and dark leaves.

If the varieties Alexandra and Victoria are too cheerful for you, the Weigela Minor Black will help create a gothic setting.

The opposite arrangement of leaves, the absence of stipules, the funnel-shaped or bell-shaped flower shape, the upright position of the shoots and the fruits in the form of bivalve boxes remain common for all species of weigela. By these signs, you can easily recognize relatives, even if other parameters are very different.

Video about the types and varieties of shrubs

Methods of planting in open ground

Weigela planting traditionally begins with the selection of a suitable location. It should be sunny or located in weak partial shade, this southeast beauty does not like strong shading. Light-loving varieties with a fringing on the leaves are planted only in a sunny place. Another important point is the wind. There must necessarily be protection from it (building, fence, less sensitive shrub), otherwise strong gusts dishevele flowers and foliage.

We plant Weigela seedlings:

  1. Dig a hole in the selected place 50x50 cm and a depth of half a meter. For regions with fertile land, where active top dressing is not required, a pit depth of 40 cm is recommended. If there are several seedlings, make sure that the distance between them is 2 m for tall varieties and 0.8 m for low-growing ones, as over time the bush forms a lush crown.

    If possible, try to free the area from weed roots in advance.

  2. Put drainage at the bottom of the pit - layers of gravel and sand. The layer thickness is about 15 cm, it is better not to reduce it.

    As a drainage, you can use any stones, fragments of bricks or ceramics of a suitable size

  3. Place a seedling in the pit and carefully cover it with a mixture of 2 parts of humus / leaf soil, 2 parts of sand and 1 part of turf land. If your garden is not fertile enough, add 100 g of nitrophoska and 15 l of compost for each bush to the soil mixture. Compact the earth by hand and lightly (weigel roots feel better in loose soil). The root neck should be at ground level.

    If your weigel is grown in a container, you do not need to free the roots from the ground, plant it together with a lump

  4. Water the plants abundantly and mulch the root circle.

    If there is enough water, the puddle will soak into the ground for quite some time.

For this method, three-year-old seedlings from the nursery are best suited, younger plants are not yet ready to grow in the open without additional supervision.

If experience suggests that the survival rate of plants in your garden is low, you can treat the weigel with a growth stimulator (Radifarm, Viva +).

Weigel Care in the Garden

If you know the basic needs of a weigela, caring for it becomes not too difficult.

Firstly, the plant needs constant aeration, so the soil in the trunk circle needs to be loosened regularly. After watering or weeding, it is imperative to cultivate the soil to a depth of 5-8 cm. Since not every garden owner can devote so much time to an individual bush, you can find a simpler way - to mulch the near-stem circle with peat or wood sawdust. If the mulch layer is 10 cm, the need for frequent loosening will completely disappear.

Sawdust, needles, slivers of bark - excellent mulching materials

The root system of the weigela is fibrous (without a clearly defined central root going deep into the root), but diverges to the sides not too close to the surface. Therefore, when loosening, you can be sure that when the bayonet of the shovel is fully deepened, you will not damage the roots.

The second need is water procedures. It is especially important to water the weigel during a drought and in the spring after a snowy winter. Moisture should not be spared - each bush needs a bucket of water for 8-10 liters.

When pruning, be sure to take into account that the plant reacts differently to each type of pruning

The third stage of caring procedures is pruning. The annual is held in the spring to remove branches that have been frozen over the winter. You need to form a bush only once in 2-3 years.

Video: pruning a young plant

How to care during growth and flowering

To help the weigel prepare for lush spring blooms, it needs to be fed. Mineral fertilizers are added even in the snow, so that upon waking the plant could immediately take advantage of useful elements. Urea (20 g per m2), superphosphate and potassium salt (10 g per m2) are used as top dressing.

The time for the second treat comes at the time of the formation of flower buds. Then weigel needs double superphosphate and potassium sulfate (30 g per 1 bush or 1 m2 of area). The third top dressing is carried out before the autumn digging and consists of ash (200 g per 1 m2) or a specialized composition (for example, “Kemira Autumn”).

Weigela responds well to universal fertilizers

After top dressing, the plants should be watered very abundantly.

Once I lost several decorative bushes due to too plentiful feeding. I wanted so much more flowers that I spent additional treatment with fertilizers with increased concentration. I myself don’t understand how, having an additional education as a laboratory assistant in chemical analysis, I could treat chemicals so negligently. But the shameful result in the form of three seedy cores of once strong bushes worked more effectively than any lectures, exams and an extra tub of cold water. After that, I try to never forget that any top dressing is a serious chemical experience, no matter how mundane it looks. I even got myself a notebook with observations and always write down what and when I did in my kindergarten, so as to prevent such annoying situations no longer from an excess of enthusiasm, but simply from forgetfulness.

Care after flowering

Immediately after flowering ends, the best time for forming weigel pruning comes. At the same time, old shoots are removed, and young ones are halved. The second procedure is delayed for 2 or even 3 years. Further work is carried out according to the calendar, taking into account the weather, climate of your region and plant conditions.

One of the most difficult tasks in caring for Weigela is to properly prepare a heat-loving plant for winter. As they say, it’s better to stay here than to stay there. Gardeners use two methods of shelter: with pressed branches and assembled.

If necessary, to protect the bush from the weight of snow, you can make a frame of crossed sticks under the covering material.

The stunted and young shrubs for the winter “spread out” on the ground, carefully bending the branches and fixing them so as not to straighten. Such a mound can be framed with mulch and covered with a waterproof material of your choice (from spandbod to film), and then fix the shelter. It is convenient to do this with a spruce top, and around the bush with stones.

Such winter shelter is enough for the middle lane

Tall bushes with woody branches with this approach are easy to break, so they are sheltered in an upright position. It is necessary to tie the bush into a loose bundle, cover it with the selected material and protect it with a wire frame.

Video: Weigela Secrets

I, as a lazy gardener, really love the tradition of decorating flower beds with stones. At first, when hiding a bush, you had to look for suitable pebbles throughout the site and even quietly from your husband to adapt building materials for this business. Then I just found the right amount of beautiful rounded stones for neighbors and friends and now I always keep them near the bushes. In the summer they are decorative, and in the winter they become functional.

What problems do gardeners have

One of the possible difficulties when planting a weigel is the wrong time. If most other shrubs and trees are preferably planted in autumn, it is better to relocate it in spring. Bushes of autumn planting take root much worse and die more often. To “preserve” the seedlings until spring (if you accidentally or unknowingly purchased them in the fall), dig them in an inclined position and sprinkle most of the crown with earth. In this state, the weigel successfully wintes and you can drop it in the spring.

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Other problems, in most cases, are also associated with the late execution of garden robots, or their insufficient number.

Video: Weigela in its own garden

Table: Seasonal Care Work

SeasonWhat should be done
  • condense the snow around the bushes so that they are not damaged by rodents;
  • brush off wet snow so that thin branches do not break under its weight.
  • cut frozen shoots;
  • to loosen and mulch the trunk circle;
  • regularly and abundantly water the bushes;
  • carry out the first top dressing;
  • sow seeds in open ground.
  • picking seedlings;
  • to cover plants before late frosts;
  • smoke and spray pests with Topsin solution (3%);
  • provide plentiful watering;
  • weed weed;
  • loosen and mulch the trunk circle again.
  • cut branches for cuttings;
  • remove excess growth in the zone of the root neck;
  • weed, loosen and mulch the trunk circle;
  • feed the bushes with complex fertilizers;
  • treat against diseases and pests with Bordeaux liquid.
  • trim the crown for proper formation;
  • remove dried inflorescences (if you do not plan to collect seeds);
  • take care of cuttings and seedlings (if any);
  • re-spray the bush from diseases and pests;
  • feed the plant with a weak aqueous solution of mullein (1:10).
  • top dressing of young plants;
  • weed weeding;
  • care of cuttings.
  • planting new weigela bushes and replanting old ones;
  • mulching of trunk circles;
  • care of cuttings and seedlings (if they are not yet ready for transplantation).
  • foliage removal;
  • mulching with a thick layer for the winter (peat or dry oak foliage);
  • bending branches to the ground to avoid freezing;
  • shelter of seedlings for the winter;
  • collecting seeds after the second flowering (during the cracking of the bolls).
  • protection against rodents with the help of baits;
  • shelter of bushes for the winter.

I’ll say a banality, but the plants in their own garden are almost children. While I was too lazy to deal with them more often 2-3 times a year, they somehow coped themselves and looked almost decent. But just as a mother is disappointed with her own babies, watching the successes of their same-year-olds, so I began to be shy of my flower bed, getting to visit friends. The flowerbed was formed precisely from the calculation of saving time, because I love flowers, and I hate to endure annuals to plant every year. But the bushes also have to tinker with so that they are really beautiful. Considering that gardening enthusiasm attacks me with short flashes and usually out of season, it was really difficult to synchronize the needs of plants and my own mood. Over time, I managed to discipline myself and incorporate the minimum necessary care bed into my daily plans. The result was obtained both with and without manicure - it seems a trifle, but the image changes dramatically. True, new plants now appear extremely rarely - I treat everyone as an adopted baby.

Breeding methods

Gardeners practice weigel propagation by seeds and vegetative methods: cuttings (rooting of cut shoots), layering (rooting of shoots by bending and falling asleep with the ground without taking off from the bush), young shoots of stump (“children” that regularly appear at the root of the neck). The cultivation of cuttings from shoots and shoots is identical, and the method of laying is simpler, since young growth does not require additional care at the rooting stage.

Veigel is most often propagated by arcuate layers

How to grow weigel seedlings

Unlike many other ornamental shrubs, Weigel is perfectly propagated by seeds. Collected seeds remain viable for a whole year, but they should not be stored longer. Preliminary preparation of seeds is not required, they are quite tenacious and without additional help. For sowing, you can use the trays for seedlings or covered with film flower pots, in general, any kind of mini-greenhouse.

As a rule, all plants sprout simultaneously, which greatly simplifies the care of young shoots. Picking is carried out after the appearance of the second pair of leaves, then you can do weeding. If seedlings have enough space for growth (7–8 cm between neighbors), in the future they require only watering.

If you could not find dive tools, you can use the available tools

At the end of the first year after the emergence of seedlings, the seedlings grow to 6–7 cm in height, and the root system occupies a site with a diameter of 3–5 cm. At this stage of life, the stem does not branch yet, but it has 3 or more pairs of leaves, as well as axillary and apical kidneys. Such seedlings are ready for growing in the open. It’s best to take the boxes into the garden and set them under the partial shade trees.

Such a bush is suitable for planting in the ground or tub

By the second year of life, the seedling has a height of 40-50 cm and has a well-grown surface root system. Such a plant can already find a permanent place of residence in your garden. But the first flowers will have to wait another 2 years.

The method of propagation by seeds is not suitable for hybrid and garden forms of weigels, in which the necessary decorative properties were given by grafting. It is best to sow the natural forms of Weigela: pleasant, early, Middendorff.

Weigel grown from cuttings

Vegetative propagation is the best way to preserve the varietal characteristics of your green pet. The optimal time for this procedure is mid-June, when spring flower buds have already fulfilled their function, and new ones have not yet appeared. Young, not yet stubborn shoots should be cut. The bottom cut should be straight, the traditional oblique will cut the bundle to which the leaves are attached. The upper cut should be placed above the sheet cushion, the lower - right below it.

In distant school years, you were certainly told that plants have three ways of arranging leaves on the stem: alternate (ladder), opposite (paired leaves grow opposite each other) and whorled (leaves cover the stem with a ring). Beginning gardeners should definitely remember this, since the cuttings of plants with an alternate position are cut from the bottom in an oblique, with whorled and opposite - only in a straight line.

For cutting cuttings, you can use a conventional blade

On the issue of cutting the two pairs of leaves remaining on the stem, experts are not in solidarity: you can remove them completely, cut them in half, or leave 2/3 of the leaf blade .

Next, proceed as follows:

  1. Put freshly cut cuttings in water at room temperature for 1-2 hours.

    The water level in the jar should not be high - just moisten the bottom 2-3 cm

  2. Treat prepared stems with growth stimulant and leave overnight in a dark, warm room. The optimum exposure time is 12 hours, the temperature is 20o-25oC. A solution of 150 mg of heteroauxin in 1 liter of water is usually used as a stimulant. Note that without growth stimulation, the likelihood of rooting of the cuttings is reduced by an order of magnitude.

    When buying a bag, be sure to calculate how much money is needed to process all your cuttings

  3. Prepare a mixture of sand and peat and plant the cuttings in open ground, cutting them to a depth of 1 cm. From above, mix the soil with washed river sand, and then cover it tightly with a plastic film (as an option - a cut plastic bottle). Water the seedling twice a day until completely rooted.

    A cropped bottle is the easiest and cheapest mini greenhouse

Experts say that if you adhere to this method, good rooting is guaranteed.

Weigela propagates equally well in both winter and summer cuttings. But summer seedlings first bloom at the age of 2 years, and this is a huge advantage for impatient gardeners. Unfortunately, the first buds will have to be removed before opening, so that the bush forms a more magnificent and dense crown.

If you missed the time of summer cuttings, you can try to grow winter cuttings. They are cut in April, separating the stem under the bud with unblown leaves. Further, the technology is similar, but rooting is carried out in pots with a mixture of sand and turf. After the formation of roots, the plants are pinched and fed with cow manure (0.5 l of slurry per 1 m2) or mineral fertilizers (30 g of superphosphate + 25 g of ammonium nitrate).

Rooting of cuttings is not guaranteed, so cook them with a margin

Keep in mind that despite the extra efforts, winter cuttings not only grow worse, but also take root less readily. Therefore, if you need a guaranteed result, it is better to wait for the summer.

The nuances of cultivation in different regions

Due to the high adaptability of weigels, it grows well throughout almost the entire country. But there are several nuances that should be taken into account by a gardener from regions with a harsh climate.

Growing in the Moscow region and the Leningrad region

In this region, hybrid varieties of this shrub feel best: Candida, Eva Ratke, Rosea, Lucifer. Of the wild in temperate continental climates, Weigela early is appropriate, which is often found in the south of the Ussuri Territory and blooming (varieties Purpurea and Alba). But the latter tolerates the cold worse and needs careful shelter. If you are not embarrassed by the need to protect plants from frost, the Weigela Sadovaya and Weigela Middendorf will grow well in the garden near Moscow. Here they will not only grow well, but will be able to successfully propagate by cuttings and seeds according to the standard scheme.

A cottage near Moscow decorated with Weigels resembles a cozy house in Provence

Weigela planting in the Moscow Region is carried out according to the technology already described above. The only difference is that spring planting is recommended. The first flowering will have to wait 4 years.

In the cold climate, the autumn planting weigel often dies in the first winter, despite careful wrapping.

If you want to get an abundantly flowering compact bush, two top dressings per year are enough. During the swelling of leaf buds (but before the first leaves bloom), nitroammophoska is introduced, 40 g per bucket of water under each bush. In late spring, before blooming flower buds, potassium sulfate and superphosphate are added in an amount of 30 g per 10 l of water for each bush.

Before the first frosts, the bushes should be covered with agrofiber, dry leaves or spruce spruce branches (just like roses). If the winter is projected to be harsh, it is better to play it safe and use roofing material or spandbod for shelter.

Video: the best variety of wigels for the middle lane

Growing in Siberia and the Urals

The only obstacle to the normal growth of weigels in this region is severe winter frosts. Therefore, only the most stable varieties of weigela should be planted here: Alba, Striatum, Victoria, Shtiriaka, Red Prince, Eva Ratke. Gardeners claim that they are able to survive the winter with a short-term drop in temperature to -43 ° C. Of course, even these varieties will not winter without shelter, but they can be grown on the open ground, without wasting time on winter tub maintenance.

Despite the apparent fragility and tenderness, this Styriak wig is able to withstand extremely harsh winters

The planting of seedlings here is also preferable to spring, since autumn does not have enough time to grow stronger before frosts. The rest of the care for Weigel in Siberia is almost no different from the same actions in other regions.

TOP 5 Useful Tips

  1. When using weigels in group landings, be sure to make a common trunk circle. This will greatly facilitate the loosening, watering and mulching of this area and you will spend less time on caring for the group .
  2. You should not buy expensive pesticides for Weigela. You can get by with traditional means: anabazine sulfate (0.2% solution), nicotine sulfate (0.4% of the active substance + a little soap to fix on the leaves), trichloromegaphosomes (0.2-0.3% solution), carbophos (0.2% solution), chlorophosomes (0.3-0.5%). If you are afraid to work with chemicals and complex insecticides (Keltan, Rogor, Nitrafen), getting rid of aphids, leaf-eating caterpillars, thrips, spider mites and mealybug will help infusion of shag, garlic, wormwood, onion or bitter pepper.
  3. If you notice bacterial cancer on the root of the bush, do not try to save it - all efforts will be in vain. It is better to dig up and burn plants quickly so that other representatives of the flora in your garden do not become infected with this disease.
  4. Those who are lazy to care for weigel seedlings can simplify their task and take advantage of the help of nature. You do not need to collect seeds in the fall - leave them in the ground and let them grow without your participation. In such a severe test, the strongest seedlings will survive, which will be much easier to grow up to two years of age.
  5. When freshly transplanted seedlings begin to wither and change the color of leaves to yellow, this indicates a plant disease. Check for surface signs of parasites and make sure the humidity conditions are correct. It so happens that everything is in order, but the plants continue to languish. Then, most likely, you inadvertently brought in parasites yourself when fertilizing a seedling - larvae of the May beetle or bear, which feed on roots. Try to spill the soil around the bushes with a solution of karbofos or actara, and the weigel will recover over time.

Even if the flowering is not too plentiful, the weigel looks very decorative

What gardeners say: feedback from practitioners

Pluses: beautiful! magnificent! bewitching!

Minuses: moody bush

This bush has been growing in our garden for ten years now. The first years he bloomed very poorly, just a few flowers. We raced with him around the garden, looking for a suitable place. So far, after about six years, they did not attach it in the most comfortable and sunny corner. Since then, it has decently grown, and makes us happy every year with its pink buds, similar to bells. In general, weigela - the bush is rather moody. It requires the choice of a place protected from the winds, fertile, well-drained soil. It does not tolerate waterlogging. But in the hot season requires regular watering. [...] In frosty winters weigel shoots can freeze, in spring they need to be cut. Also, after flowering is completed, once every several years we conduct anti-aging pruning, removing old branches. Periodically, the bush is fertilized with a solution of organic fertilizer. But without fanaticism. It took as long as six years to understand the needs of our Weigela bush. But now he is a real decoration of the garden!


Pluses: Picky, does not require much care.

Minuses: Need to shape

Once in a market where flowers are sold, one grandmother was selling a shrub cuttings, and there was only one flower on this cuttings. It was red in color, shaped like a large bell. I really liked it and I bought it, for a purely symbolic price. It was a Weigela. I planted it in early spring, in a well-fertilized land with peat and sand. The stalk took root well and quickly. Grew well, I won’t raise it by the clock, I still fertilized it, I really wanted it to bloom for the next year. But to my sadness, the next year it did not bloom, but it gave beautiful, lush greenery, good green leaves densely overgrown with branches of shrubs. I was very upset, went to a specialty store to consult about this bush. And they explained everything to me there, it turns out that the “Weigela” does not require much fertilizer, because everything will go green, the less minerals and everything useful for the plant in the earth, the better it will bloom with flowers. The next year I did so, all the previous year I did not flood anything besides water under this bush. And this year, in early June, it blooms to my full capacity.


The plant is low, the height of an adult bush reaches a little more than two meters, but this is under the condition that it does not freeze in the winter. There are both cons and pros in this shrub, and each grower considers them as they see fit. In my review, I will describe my experience and my observations. [...] The only downside is that the weigel is afraid not only of minus temperatures, but also of a large difference from plus to minus. But the plant has many advantages and the first one is that after pruning dried branches that have come under low temperatures, the bush is instantly restored. With only one difference, such a plant blooms only once during the vegetative period. [...] Dark-colored flowers burn out a little in the sun. It looks beautiful in compositions with conifers and perennial flowers such as incense, hosta, tradescantia, rudbeckia.


[Weigel plant] has recently settled in our garden, but has already become a clear favorite. They planted themselves, did not buy, but took advantage of the cuttings, which were kindly given by a familiar gardener. They planted under a jar, not everyone took root at once. It grows depending on what place and land, you still need the sun. Cuttings sat all the time under the bank, sometimes aired. The next year, the bushes literally burst in growth. Then the same woman gave a small bush. Of course, he grew even faster, and most importantly, bloomed all summer. Even in the fall, one twig was in bloom. I just fell in love with Weigela. Standard care if you want can be watered with fertilizers would be grateful. Do not want to water - your right that I will not know. I do not regret anything for such a beauty)) You can water nettle infusion - the same organics. I also want to write that we have many bushes, one planted as a continuation of the hedge and it looks very good, but in this case some kind of backwater is needed. In the center of the country without support is growing. I still can’t wait until the red weigel grows, they planted a stalk last summer. In the photo, pink Weigela shrub for two years, bloomed for a very long time, beautiful flowers smell pleasant. If you see such shrubs, buy, you will not regret it!


[...] A sunny place should be chosen for the weigela, although it can also grow in partial shade. The soil should be loose, permeable. Minimum care is needed - watering, fertilizing and pruning after flowering. Propagated by young, slightly lignified cuttings - they are cut from the bush and planted in sand or loose soil under a film and watered. Rooted plants can already bloom next year. Cuttings root easily, only you need to cut them about 10 cm and remove most of the leaves. Weigela can be used in compositions with lilac, forsia, mock-up and other shrubs. Pay attention to pruning. Every year, in spring, you need to remove frozen and dry shoots, and it is better to do bush formation after the weigel has blossomed (shorten young shoots by half for good tillering).


I [weigel] grows for the third year (Kazan) and blooms twice a year, a very beautiful bush. For the winter, I just tilt the branches, I try to throw more snow on it.


As you can see, weigela is not as capricious as they say about it. Most gardeners are happy with their bushes, even if they do not fulfill the plan for caring for it at 100%. Therefore, be sure to try to plant it at home, because you can get no less pleasure from leaving than from contemplating her bright buds.


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