We plant repair raspberries according to the rules

Repair raspberries undoubtedly outperform ordinary summer raspberries with long fruiting and maximum resistance to fungal diseases and pests. Therefore, even conservative gardeners are increasingly inclined to purchase raspberry varieties with continuous fruiting. And those who have already appreciated the repair varieties emphasize the benefits of growing this variety of berry shrubs. The size of the future raspberry crop depends on the selected variety and planting dates, taking into account climatic characteristics in the region. Raspberry planted according to the rules of the repairing varieties takes root quickly and painlessly, pleases with a stable harvest and is less likely to get sick.

Removable raspberry - features of berry culture

Remontant raspberry - berry shrub, which is characterized by continuous continuous flowering and the formation of ovaries during the growing season. If in the spring last year's branches were not removed on raspberries of repairing varieties, then at the end of June it will bear fruit on the shoots of last year. But most often these branches turn into dead wood, then they are cut out with a secateurs under the root. As a rule, young shoots develop on the plant, since the repair varieties for the winter are cut at the very base of the soil. And the main crop is received on the annual shoots of this year growing from the earth - from the end of June to mid-September. Most varieties of this variety of berry culture are self-pollinated.

Unlike ordinary raspberries (summer), the remontant is taller. When planting such a berry culture, it must be remembered that the requirements for soil fertility, their moisture and lightness of the planting site are much higher for repairmen than for raspberries of traditional summer fruiting. The first berries in the repairing varieties appear in the third decade of June and continue to ripen until the first frosts.

Removable raspberries are taller than traditional summer raspberries and give more ovaries

Table: advantages and disadvantages of remont raspberries

1. Frost resistance (no need

to warm the plant for the winter).

1. Harvest of the "last wave" is not always

manages to mature before the first frost.

2. Resistance to diseases and pests.2. Numerous sharp spikes

on the central shoot.

3. Good ability to form shoots (from five to eight), so higher productivity from the bush. 3. The plant needs a garter.
4. Berries are able to remain on the bush for a long time without rotting and reducing taste.

Most of the repairing cultivars are resistant to weevil, gall midge and dwarf bushiness and are practically not damaged by raspberry beetle larvae.

Another feature of such varieties is an excess of ovary and the number of fruit-bearing shoots that thicken the bush. They are recommended to be removed by cutting individual branches.

Thickened plantings are recommended to thin out

When is it better to plant raspberry remontant: in spring or autumn

Each gardener, determined by the period of planting repair varieties of raspberries, is guided by the climatic zone of the garden plot. Spring planting is preferred in the northern regions, where winter begins early and the first frosts are possible in September. Due to the mild warm climate in the southern regions, remontant raspberries are planted in open ground from early March to the first May decade and from late August to mid-October.

The main conditions for planting remont raspberries:

  • daylight hours of at least 12 hours;
  • optimal air temperature + 10 + 15 ° C.

In many regions of central Russia, repairing raspberries are often planted in spring - from late March to mid April after stable positive temperatures are established, but until buds open. Many dangerous insects are still not very active at this point, and the weather is rather damp and there is still no sweltering heat.

For many years, most experienced gardeners familiar with repair varieties have claimed that spring planting of repair varieties is the best and most acceptable option in the north, in the Volga region and in the Urals. Spring planting is carried out before the active vegetation of the plant begins, but provided that the threat of night frost has passed. This is due to the fact that raspberries are thermophilic.

In the case when it is necessary to delay the vegetation for 2-3 weeks from pre-purchased seedlings for timely planting, the plants are kept “on the glacier” under the thickness of snow (20-30 cm), after covering the cuttings with sawdust or straw.

In the Central Black Earth Region and in the southern regions, fruit and berry bushes are recommended to be planted both in the spring and in the fall, because these plants start to grow early. They begin the planting process three weeks before the first frost, so this happens in different regions in different ways. The best option for Central Russia is from early September to October 10. Dates may vary depending on the moment of onset of constant cold weather and the degree of freezing of the soil. For example, in the southern regions raspberries are planted until mid-November. By this time, the plant bears fruit, the root system will get stronger and the plant will take root less painfully.

Young plants with a closed root system, grown in containers, are planted even in the summer - at the beginning of June.

Repairing raspberries with a closed root system are planted from April to September

It should be remembered that if the spring planting is too late, the plants take root painfully and often dry out, and failure to observe the planting dates of the remont raspberries in the fall can provoke freezing of the root system and death of the plant.

When to transplant repair raspberries

Without transplanting, remontant raspberries can grow on a site from 7 to 15 years, the longer the more fertile the soil, and the site is more illuminated and less susceptible to weathering. Over time, the land is depleted and the transfer of young cuttings, including lignified ones, to a new place is required. You can start transplanting root offspring after 5 years in order to have a decent plantation from your own cuttings in advance. If necessary, uprooting old raspberries, replacement will already grow in the new area, this will reduce the cost of acquiring expensive seedlings of repair varieties.

In spring - until the end of May - young shoots are transplanted in cloudy, cool weather. Half a bucket of humus and 100 g of ash are added to the hole, everything is thoroughly mixed. Plants with a height of up to 20 cm are selected, they dig out with a lump of earth and transfer to a prepared, moistened planting hole (depth 30–40 cm). Green shoots do not deepen much and try not to tamp. The transplanted stalk is watered (5 liters of water is enough), pritenut for the first time and mulch.

After planting, offspring require abundant and regular watering (during the first week - 5-7 liters of water per bush daily), and after 3-4 weeks - reliable support and garter. Such plants are not pruned, since with sufficient moisture there is a chance to get berries in the first year of planting young raspberries.

In autumn, when transplanting, raspberries are cut, leaving a lignified central shoot 5–15 cm high. The stem is transferred to a moistened landing pit. Unlike spring transplantation, the hole is deepened to 40–50 cm and 50 g of superphosphate are added to the soil mixture for backfill, consisting of humus (10 kg), rotted manure (5 kg) and ash (100–150 g). The plant is sprinkled with a soil mixture, watered and mulched, as a rule, they do not shade at this time of year. To moisten the transplanted repair raspberries, one bucket of water is enough. If the rainy season and cool weather are expected, then the next watering is recommended in 5-7 days.

After spring transplanting, seedlings do not cut

Rules for planting raspberry remontant

In order to get a good raspberry crop, it is important not only to choose a sunny area and prepare the soil, but also to buy healthy seedlings with a well-developed root system. It is important to consider how close the groundwater is and what is the composition of the soil . The raspberry root system grows no more than 35–40 cm, therefore the plant normally vegetates and bears fruit when groundwater occurs at a depth of 1–1.5 meters. But in a swamp, raspberries will not grow unambiguously. If the site for planting is wet and swampy, to improve drainage, it is recommended to add sand (per 1 bucket per 1 m2), and to the bottom of the landing pit - broken brick and river pebbles (10-15 cm layer), and arrange raspberries to be planted in spring . In rows of raspberries, sheets of iron or slate are buried on the sides of a row to a depth of 40-50 cm to limit root growth.

To prevent raspberries from “scattering” around the site, they plant slate sheets when planting along the beds

On chernozem, buckwheat or sunflower husk is introduced to improve aeration and air exchange in the soil, and Kemira and Nitroammofosku are added to sandy soil for enrichment with minerals and microelements according to the instructions (for spring planting). It is undesirable to feed shrubs with fertilizers containing chlorine, this can cause chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves, accompanied by a weak growth of shoots and a decrease in plant yield).

Choose raspberry seedlings

Healthy seedlings are the main condition for obtaining complete planting material. Raspberries are susceptible to infection by viruses and are often damaged by a spider mite. It is desirable that the mother material:

  • possessed high winter hardiness;
  • distinguished by a high yield;
  • had good resistance to diseases and pests.

High-quality seedlings have from two to four shoots-shoots 5–8 mm thick, the fibrous root system is flexible, it is almost impossible to break the root hairs, primordial bud buds sprout up. Before planting, cut off the dried roots and soak the seedlings in water for 48 hours.

When buying seedlings of repair raspberries, you should pay attention to the root system, it must be well developed and have accessory buds

In the middle of summer, on the rhizomes of raspberries, accessory buds are formed, which are distinguished by slow growth. By the autumn cold, they germinate, remaining in the soil until spring in the form of colorless sprouts. In spring, growth resumes and shoots of fruiting appear. Therefore, when buying raspberry seedlings at any time of the year, it is advisable to make sure that there are rudimentary shoots in the root system of the seedling.


The buds on the shoots should be green and fragrant when crushed by fingers. In the case of leaflets blooming, they do not darken (without yellowness) and do not fade (for this, a freshly dug seedling is placed in a plastic bag with wet peat and regularly sprayed when storing shoots). That's right - to purchase planting material in nurseries and from trusted manufacturers.

Where it is better to plant remont raspberry on the plot

Choosing the best landing site is the key to an annual stable harvest. For remont raspberries choose a sunny, well-warmed place without drafts and the close location of tall trees shading raspberry.

When placing this culture on the site, it is worth remembering that the repair varieties do not tolerate prolonged drought and heat well, since the root system located on the surface does not have time to maintain powerful shoots with moisture deficiency. A slight shadow in hot climates will not hurt. But everything should be in moderation, because with a strong shade of the plantings, the berries will be smaller and sour, especially when re-harvesting at the end of summer.

A low-lying area is better to prefer a hill with fertile chernozem or light sandy loam. This berry shrub perfectly coexists with blackberries, honeysuckle, aronia, apricot, cherry and plum, as well as vegetable crops - cucumbers, potatoes, carrots, and melons. Calendula, garlic, marigolds, basil and other aromatic herbs do not interfere with the development of raspberries, but repel pests with their smell.

Repair raspberries get along well with many fruit crops and vegetables on the site

Some gardeners believe that for raspberries the best neighbor is an apple tree, it inhibits the development of gray rot on the bush, and sorrel prevents raspberry shoots from creeping along the garden plot.

The neighborhood with currants and strawberries is considered to be unfavorable, because the raspberry remontant with these berry bushes has common enemies - the weevil beetle and the spider mite. It is believed that the close proximity of these plants can provoke the spread of these pests in the infield.

The soil should be neutral or slightly acidic. If wheatgrass, quinoa, clover are found on the site, then the soil acidity is normal. When the horsetail, sedge, plantain, moss fill the beds, it is easy to understand that the soil is acidified. To determine the acidity of the soil, it is not necessary to use litmus. You can use improvised means, for example, soda or vinegar.

In a small container, soil and water are mixed. Sprinkle with baking soda on top. If there is a hiss and the gruel boils slightly - the soil is acidified, measures must be taken to neutralize it.

The berry shrub needs organic top dressing, so at planting make at least 15–20 kg per 1 m2 of rotted manure. Wood ash (0.5 kg per 1 m2) or limestone flour in the same calculation is used to normalize the acidity of the soil.

Best for planting remont raspberries is suitable sod mix with the addition of coarse sand and peat (1: 1). To increase fertility in autumn, the topsoil is mulched with horse or cow manure with a layer of 10–15 cm. Overfeeding overwinter during the winter, giving useful trace elements to the plant. Periodically (2-3 times during the growing season), berry shrubs are fed with liquid complex fertilizers.

Planting scheme of remont raspberries

There are several options for planting raspberries on the site, each of which has its own characteristics. With proper planting, raspberry care is minimal.

Bush method

Plants are planted on the south side of the garden, in the corner zone, where there is a fence or wall for support and protection against freezing. Between the plants leave 70–90 cm, digging a hole for planting 50 × 50 cm. The amount of fertilizer is calculated differently during autumn and spring planting (see below).

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During bush planting, raspberries are placed in separate holes seasoned with a fertile substrate.

Raspberries are abundantly watered and try to pritenit. It is better if the raspberry planted by the bush method grows in areas closed from the dry winds. The bushes are arranged four or six in a checkerboard pattern. As a rule, plants are loosened and weed by hand, and tied to closely mounted wooden or metal pegs (1–1.5 m in length) to support fruiting shoots.

Trench (tape) method

Landing in a trench is popular in the industrial cultivation of raspberries. With this technique, it is convenient to mulch the shrub with a roll of nonwoven material, as well as loosen and process the row spacing from weeds mechanically (using a cultivator). Landing in a trench is suitable for sandy soils with a lack of moisture in the upper layers of the soil.

In the fall, the site is dug up, cleared of weeds, seasoned with rotted manure (up to 20 kg / m2). By spring, manure rots, and you only need to dig trenches, add mineral fertilizing, water and shade plantings. Planting raspberries in a trench way, you can use a single-line landing - in one row, or two-line - in two rows with a distance of half a meter between them.

The trench method involves planting raspberries, prone to thickening, in one row

Tall varieties are conveniently planted in two rows - this simplifies the maintenance of beds and saves space on the garden plot. Observing the distance between the bushes (at least 50 cm) will avoid thickening.

The arrangement of raspberries in two rows is used for the convenience of planting care

Trenches are located from north to south, beds with raspberries should be well warmed up. The eastern or southeastern part of the garden is well suited, on the north side of which there are buildings. They will protect raspberries from drafts and cold winds.

As they grow, the shoots are tied to a wire trellis mounted on poles. They dig in, observing an interval of three to five meters. The next year after planting, add another row of wire, 30-40 cm higher from the previous wire fastening. This will provide a stronger and more reliable support for fruiting shoots. Twigs are tied at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other using twine or copper wire.

As they grow, raspberries are fixed on a wire trellis using twine or wire

During the autumn planting in a trench way, the raspberry seedlings are planted denser, since not all shoots can take root before the first frost. It is believed that the berry shrub planted in a trench way winters better.

Video: how to plant raspberry remontant

Solitaire landing

With this method, the bushes are placed for decorative purposes one at a time. Large tall shoots are sure to be fixed on the trellis. So that the bush does not fall apart under the weight of the crop, it is tied at a height of 50–70 cm from the soil surface with metal wire, which is fixed on 2–4 wooden posts up to a meter high. At the same time, raspberries form a more powerful root system, receive more light and heat, are less susceptible to diseases and pests, than when crowded. Shrubs are formed from 6-8 fruiting shoots and watered under the root, it is desirable to mulch the surface of the planting well.

When solitary placement raspberry bushes warm better and form powerful shoots

A raspberry-solitaire can decorate any corner of the garden if it is planted in a purchased container or a pot with a volume of 10 or more liters.

The tapeworm planting of raspberry remontant in flower pots does not limit the growth of the plant, which can become an unusual decorative element on the site

Raspberry planting on the crests

Landing on ridges is recommended on heavy clay soil, chernozem in swampy areas - the trench is filled with wood waste and a fertile layer, the bush is planted just above the soil level and thoroughly mulched with straw or oilcloth - a volumetric bed of two meters or more is obtained.

Raspberries planted on ridges avoid stagnation of water in the ground

  1. When planting the ridges, rows of 80–100 cm deep are dug. Sawdust and chipped rotted wood (knots, bark, and other wood waste) are laid to the bottom, the layer of which should be 30–40 cm. The wood rotes in a year or two, fertile humus forms.
  2. On top of the wood layer, earth removed from the beds is added, mixed with humus (10-15 kg per 1 m2) and superphosphate (150 g per 1 m2), slightly compacted and watered - 2-3 buckets per 1 m2. Part of the soil mixture is left on the seedling powder. Abundant irrigation is required - the wood is saturated with water and will give moisture to planted bushes for a long time.
  3. Saplings are lowered into the prepared hole (observing the interval as when planting in the trench - see above) and sprinkled with soil mixed with fertilizers. The plant is watered again - 5-7 liters per bush. They mulch with straw, sawdust or rotted manure, and a mound is formed on top - it warms up better, and the shrub does not lack moisture due to mulch and wood feeding.
  4. Boards or pieces of slate (fencing height 30–40 cm) are dug along the edges of the ridge along the trench so that the high bed does not collapse under the influence of precipitation and winds.

Raspberries on warm (raised) beds

This method of planting allows you to get an early harvest of raspberries due to the heat generated by decaying organics, without the need for additional fertilizers during the growing season.

Тёплая грядка для малины готова к посадке

Тёплая грядка представляет собой ограждение из подручных материалов (шифер, доски, металлический лист), высотой около 80–90 см и длиной 1, 5–2 метра.

  1. Выкапывают грядки шириной 60–80 см и глубиной примерно метр. Дно засыпают слоем древесных опилок (3–4 ведра на 1 м2), пропитанным для обеззараживания раствором марганцовки — 2 г на 10 л воды в расчёте 3 л на 1 м2 (слой 10–15 см).
  2. Следующий слой — земля с участка с компостом и перепревшим птичьим помётом (10–15 см).
  3. Далее идёт смесь листового опада и органики (20 см) с добавлением суперфосфата и сернокислого калия — по 80–100 г на 1 м2.
  4. На самом верху тёплой грядки насыпают торф, смешанный с перегноем и пшеничной или гречишной лузгой — примерно 10 см.
  5. Готовое посадочное место поливают горячей водой (5–7 вёдер на 1 м2).
  6. Затем делают небольшие углубления и сажают малину, тщательно утрамбовывая. Земля на такой грядке достаточно рыхлая и быстро оседает, если куст не присыпать плотно почвой — корни быстро оголятся.
  7. Поверхность мульчируют соломой.

Сооружение тёплой грядки — занятие трудоёмкое, но прослужит она не один год

Если малину сажают весной, тёплую грядку поливают биопрепаратами (например, Байкал) для ускорения гниения органики в нижних слоях. Так как почва со временем проседает, рекомендуется подсыпать землю в нужных местах. Теперь малина будет расти и плодоносить даже на участках с близким расположением грунтовых вод.

Рекомендуется сажать малину на поднятых грядках в том случае, если расположение грунтовых вод макисмально близко

Видео: как посадить малину в тёплую грядку

Как посадить малину ремонтантную весной

Весенняя посадка ремонтантной малины мало отличается от размещения обычной малины в открытом грунте. Ремонтантам требуется больше органики и минеральных удобрений при формировании посадочной лунки, также рекомендуется строго соблюдать расстояние между саженцами (минимум 40–50 см), так как за один сезон вегетации они вырастают в мощные высокорослые кусты.

  1. Перед посадкой корни саженцев выдерживают в 1%-м растворе медного купороса 5 минут, затем вымачивают в воде 12 часов.
  2. Растения опускают в подготовленные ямы (50 см глубиной и 40–50 шириной) или траншеи (соблюдают заглубление аналогично кустовой посадке), заправленные в расчёте на 1 м2 перепревшим навозом (1 ведро), торфом (5–7 кг), золой (500 г) и суперфосфатом (100 г). Затем равномерно расправляют корни растения, аккуратно засыпают подготовленным субстратом. Необходимо избегать излишнего заглубления ремонтантной малины при любом способе посадки, поэтому корневую шейку оставляют на уровне почвы.
  3. Почву утаптывают вокруг саженца поступательными движениями, под каждое растение выливают 1–3 ведра воды (в зависимости от почвы и погоды), хорошо мульчируют: для этого подходят натуральные материалы — листва, хвоя, опилки, сено и солома, а также нетканое покрытие (например, лутрасил), нередко для этих целей используют рубероид или клеёнку. Это необходимо для защиты от иссушения поверхности грунта весной.
  4. При посадке малины кусты обрезают не сильно — оставляют над поверхностью земли черенки высотой 15–20 см (на 2–3 почки), срезанные наискосок острым секатором.

Так как по весне недостаточно влаги — растения после посадки попадают в жаркие, сухие условия — поливать ремонтантную малину при весенней посадке нужно чаще, чем осенью. В течение недели не менее двух раз — 2–3 ведра на 1 м2. Только в случае ранней посадки (середина марта), когда почва напитана талыми водами и ещё не установилась жаркая погода, саженцу не требуется обильный полив.

Если растения посадить правильно, то они быстро пойдут в рост

Посадка ремонтантной малины осенью

  1. В почвосмесь для посадки добавляют 50 г/ м2 сернокислого калия, 15 кг перегноя и 80 г суперфосфата в гранулах. Осенью исключают азотные добавки. Перед посадкой корешки малиновых черенков на 3–5 часов замачивают в болтушке из глины, коровяка и воды в соотношении 1:1:1, в которую добавляют любой инсектицид (например, 30 г Актары). Препарат защищает саженцы малины от почвенных вредителей, которые зимуют в верхних слоях грунта.
  2. Затем черенки опускают в посадочные ямы (50×50 см, глубиной 60–70 см) или траншеи (см. выше), равномерно расправляют корни, засыпают подготовленным субстратом, слегка приминая грунт вокруг саженца. Корневую шейку немного заглубляют (на 2–3 см). Осенью черенки малины обрезают максимально коротко (оставляют 1–2 см побега). Такая обрезка исключает преждевременное прорастание почек при осенних потеплениях и вымерзание побегов при сильных морозах.
  3. Посадки поливают из расчёта 10–15 литров воды на 1 м2 один раз в неделю. Осенью не требуется обильное орошение.
  4. Малину мульчируют соломой или опилками, прикрывают тонкими сухими ветками или мелким хвойным валежником. Снегозадержание — основная функция такой мульчи. Снежный покров — это естественный утеплитель ремонтантной малины в зимний период.

Осенью после посадки малину хорошенько мульчируют

Главное отличие посадки ремонтантной малины осенью: по окончании процедуры обязательно требуется обрезка побегов под корень.

У нас в Центральном Черноземье обычно сажают малину ремонтантную осенью. На моём участке есть экземпляры, посаженные и осенью, и весной. Эти растения развиваются абсолютно одинаково, отличие только в том, что весенние посадки способны дать первый урожай уже в июле текущего года. Чаще всего в весеннюю посадку идут новые сорта, приобретённые в питомнике. С конца августа до середины сентября я прореживаю собственный малинник и пересаживаю хорошо развитые, почти одревесневшие молодые побеги ремонтантов на новое место, то есть увеличиваю площадь посадок малины ремонтантной за счёт собственной поросли. Это позволяет сэкономить на покупке новых саженцев. Кроме того, собственные молодые черенки редко болеют и быстро приживаются.

On my garden plot there is gray sand (such as happens in the forest - it is located near our house). Given that remont raspberries love the sun and warmth, I plant it in open, heated beds. A significant minus of planting in the sand is the rapid drying of the soil. You pour water “like in a sieve, ” sometimes even mulching of the root space with straw, coniferous litter, sawdust and dry branches does not save. For myself, I found a way out of the situation: when planting raspberries (grapes and fruit trees as well) on the bottom of the hole (50-60 cm deep) we put pieces of slate up close, pour broken crushed stone (smaller) on top. Then comes the standard filling of the planting pit - bark and tree branches, compost - about half a bucket, the same amount of fresh manure with ash (500 g in one hole). Be sure to roll two or three handfuls of purchased complex fertilizer for fruit and berry shrubs (for example, superphosphate). I mix everything, make a deepening in the soil mixture and plant a bush with minimal deepening of the growth bud. This method of planting serves as a salvation from moisture loss on the soil surface, which is especially dangerous in the first days after planting in the spring. Watering watering at the rate of 7-10 liters of water per bush. Since raspberries love fertile soil, on top of the root space I mulch over rotted manure (1 bucket per bush). Regardless of the time at which planting raspberries are planted, this procedure is useful for two reasons: a dense layer of mulch from manure retains moisture no worse than straw or non-woven material, and when dissolved, it gradually enriches the soil with nutritious organic matter.

Video: how to plant repair raspberries in autumn

Care for the raspberry remover after planting

  • It is recommended to water raspberries when the soil dries in hot weather - under the root, when it is cloudy - to sprinkle, this will avoid burns on young foliage. It is necessary to think over and organize the irrigation system correctly: if possible, set up drip irrigation, also rain irrigation or root watering on the slopes.
  • At the end of summer, watering is reduced so that the plants mature well and develop. Feeding is carried out at least two times during the summer: before buds open and 2 weeks before flowering.
  • Powerful shoots are tied or fixed on a trellis.
  • They also remove root shoots that take away nutrients: they cut with a sharp shovel at a depth of 7-10 cm.

Autumn pruning of fruiting shoots is performed as late as possible, so that the roots absorb all the useful trace elements. This increases the frost resistance of the plant.

Every year, for the purpose of prevention, remont raspberry is treated from pests and diseases with systemic combined drugs - Fufanon, Topaz, Inta-Vir, Oksikhom, which is safer in composition by Fitolavin.

Video: care for refurbished raspberry varieties after planting

The best dates for planting raspberry remontant in the regions

In the central part of Russia, various repairing raspberry varieties begin to bear fruit in the last days of June - at the beginning of July, and in Siberia and the Urals most often you can enjoy the first berries only from July 25-30 or in the first decade of August - it all depends on the weather of this summer. That is, the timing of the beginning of fruiting of raspberries in the southern regions by about 4 weeks differs from the ripening of the crop in the north. In this way, the timing of planting repair varieties also varies. But most often in Siberia, Transbaikalia and the Urals, gardeners use spring planting, since winter comes early in the northern regions. To the south of the European part of our country, the climate is milder, you can plant and transplant raspberries twice a year, as in the Krasnodar Territory, the Kuban, the Crimea and Ukraine - each gardener chooses the planting dates independently.

Dates of planting raspberry remontant in Belarus

Since this variety of raspberries is not afraid of light frosts, they start planting from the last days of March (the best varieties are Apricot, Indian Summer 2, Diamond). In a temperate Belarusian climate, you can plant berry shrubs for a month - until the end of April. It is important to plant raspberries in prepared soil with a sufficient amount of organic matter and minerals; limestone is used to neutralize acidic soils. Regular watering will allow seedlings to quickly take root and begin to grow.

Dates of planting raspberries remontant in Ukraine

In Ukraine, the temperate continental warm climate allows raspberries to be planted both in autumn and spring . Winter comes in late December, especially in the southern regions of the country, therefore, with the same success, berry bushes of spring and autumn planting take root, subject to regular irrigation of plants, shading and loosening of the soil. In the conditions of the arid steppe of Ukraine, raspberries are planted in spring, the most suitable varieties are Indian summer, Amber, Golden domes. On the Black Sea coast of Ukraine with a climate close to the subtropics, the season for planting berry bushes begins in early spring and continues until the first serious cooling.

Dates of planting raspberry remontant in the suburbs

As soon as the snow has melted and the soil warmed up, remaining loose and moist, they begin to prepare planting pits for berry bushes. If the threat of frost has passed, the transplant begins - from late March to mid-April. The main thing for the Moscow Region is to choose a non-swampy area, a hill with good drainage and fertile soil, and a suitable variety (for example, Augustin, Bryansk Divo, Golden Autumn) are preferable. In Moscow and the Moscow region rarely use the autumn planting of raspberry remontant - plants take root worse. Since the root system of raspberries is located on the surface and most often freezes before it is completely rooted.

Dates of planting raspberry remontant in Siberia in the Urals

In conditions of unstable cold weather with frosty frosts and strong winds, for planting remontant raspberries, they choose a well-warmed area, protected by buildings or plantings. Plants are planted on the garden plot after the onset of warming, when the threat of a return of negative temperatures has passed - from mid-May to the second decade of June. Often the bush is replanted in the fall - in the first decade of September, if necessary. Powerful snow cover is the main insulation in Siberia for raspberries. Correctly selected regionalized varieties cultivated for a long time in the harsh Siberian climate guarantee abundant and long-lasting fruiting of the repairmen (Bryansk divo, Ruby necklace, Orange miracle, Atlant, Penguin, Nizhny Novgorod).


Late in the fall I cut to the level with the soil. From the shoot that grew the next year, I get a crop at the end of August - in September. This method allows you not to accumulate diseases and pests. When it grows and hardens, I will cut a part and leave a part to get continuous fruiting. Although I read somewhere that when cutting off completely, they manage to collect two crops. Between the rows I have 1 m, between the bushes - 0.5 m. Although there are recommendations to plant less often: 1.5 m and 0.7 m, respectively. But, knowing my soil, I planted like that. So far, only bushes have been mulled in my place. In the future, when they are closed in a row, I plan to mulch all the aisles. After all, raspberries love moisture. In general, I like to grow remont raspberries more than simple.


I use the following landing scheme for perennials, incl. and raspberries: I make a trench (pit), bring in organic matter, sprinkle with hydrogel, dig (preferably, but not necessarily) for distribution in volume. I fill up the remaining place with soil in which I plant plants. And with sawdust, one must be careful, especially coniferous. Use preferably on the surface only.


Light loamy soils and the location of the site on the slope contributes to the longevity of planting remont raspberries, and regular application of manure supports the best abilities of this variety of raspberries. But it is impossible to limit the space for raspberries during planting by digging in slate. You will not see a plentiful harvest and lush growth of shoots. And in order to further deal with shoots on raspberries, in May-June it is enough to walk and cut the entire shoots with a sharp shovel.

V. Kichina

Modern varieties of remont raspberries are responsive to irrigation, top dressing and simple in agricultural technology. If a plant is planted in a pre-prepared area, treated against pests, diseases and properly prepared for wintering, the result will not be long in coming. A well-groomed shrub gives strong, long shoots and a plentiful harvest. Subject to the planting dates, raspberries quickly take root and bear fruit annually.


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