Such a different tillandsia: how to care for a moody plant

    Tillandsia is a real find for those who love everything exotic, original and unusual. This houseplant will become a truly spectacular accent in the interior. Different species are completely different from each other, but the foliage decorativeness and attractive flowering remain unchanged. Tillandsia is quite demanding in care, so first you need to familiarize yourself with the recommendations for growing at home. Such “capriciousness" has no effect on her popularity - lovers of green pets rightly believe that the effort expended is more than paid for.

    What does tillandsia look like: description and photo

    Tillandsia (Tillandsia) - a genus of herbaceous perennials belonging to the large family Bromeliaceae. It combines completely dissimilar plants (according to various sources, there are from 400 to 550 species), in which it is difficult to suspect even distant relatives. This is because the natural habitat of tillandsia is quite wide. It includes mountains, semi-deserts, and savannas. Geographically, it is mainly the United States, Mexico, Argentina and Chile. The plant was forced to adapt to very different weather and climatic conditions, which could not but affect its appearance.

    The diversity of the appearance of tillandsia is due to the dissimilarity of climatic and weather conditions in the places of their growth.

    The name Tillandsia received in 1753, in honor of the Swedish botanist Elias Tillands, who first gave her scientific description. She also has quite poetic nicknames - “angel hair”, “elder’s beard”, “Louisian” or “Spanish moss”. The last name for the plant was given by American natives. Indians have dense facial hair very rare. But almost all of the Spanish conquistadors who arrived on the new mainland were owners of beards, often gray-haired.

    The socket in tillandsia is usually very dense

    All tillandsia can be divided into two groups:

    1. Ground or "green." They have a short stiff stem and a dense rosette of leaves. They are bright green in color lanceolate or triangular, smooth. The average length is 30–40 cm, width is 3–5 cm. The root system is quite powerful and developed.
    2. Epiphytic, atmospheric or “gray”. They do not have a stalk. The leaves are grayish-green or olive with a silvery sheen, very narrow, almost filiform (less than 1 cm wide with a length of 20–25 cm). They are covered with “scales”, with the help of which they suck out moisture and nutrients from the air. They live on trees, using the "host" as a support. The presence of a developed system of aerial roots is characteristic. The plant is very capricious, so it is not common at home.

    Tillandsia, belonging to the group of epiphytic, can safely be included in the list of the most unusual indoor plants

    At home, the life of tillandsia is short - no more than five years. It ends with a flowering plant. After that, the mother outlet dies, having previously formed one or more daughter. Tillandsia releases very unusual large bright pink or raspberry bracts from the center of the outlet, resembling an ear or paddle blade with “spikes” along the edge. Then three-petalled lilac, lavender or purple flowers appear on them. The petals are narrow, gradually bend back.

    Vivid bracts of tillandsia add attractiveness to an already spectacular plant

    These are the most common shades, but there are others - purple, snow-white, sky blue, bright blue, coral, scarlet, yellow. All tones are very clean, so tillandsia seems to glow. She seems to be the creation of a talented artist who prefers to work with acrylic paints.

    Tillandsia flowers, unlike bracts, do not last long on the plant

    The whole process lasts about two months. In nature, flowering most often occurs in the summer, but at home it can begin at any time of the year. In principle, it can be stimulated by spraying the plant weekly for 2–3 months with a biostimulant solution prepared according to the instructions (Zircon, Heteroauxin). After flowering, the fruit ripens - a small "box" with many small seeds.

    Exotic tillandsia can decorate any interior

    Video: tillandsia bloom

    The leaves of Tillandsia are very beloved by the birds that live in the lower Mississippi River. They use them to build nests. Finds them application and man. Mattresses, pillows, furniture are stuffed with dry leaves, and adherents of the Voodoo cult make dolls known around the world from them.

    The leaves of all tillandsia are narrow and thin.

    Video: appearance and other characteristic features of a flower

    What species are grown at home

    Of the variety of Tillandsia, only some species were able to adapt to home conditions. There are breeding hybrids, but they are also few. Most Popular:

    • Tillandsia tricolor (tricolor). Erect stems 7-10 cm long and dense rosettes of thin leaves covered with scales. Leaf length - about 20 cm. The name of the plant is due to a very unusual red-yellow-green bracts. Shades change from bottom to top. At the same time, several peduncles are formed. The flowers are bright purple.
    • Tillandsia fan (flabellata). It is very similar to tricolor tillandsia, only bracts differ. They have an unusual tubular shape and are painted in bright coral or scarlet color.
    • Tillandsia blue (soanea). The height of the outlet is about 25 cm. The length of the sheet is about 30 cm, the width is 2.5–3 cm. The main shade is bright green, but the purple or purple subton is also guessed. Peduncle rather short, often curved. The length of the inflorescence is about 15 cm, the width is about half that. It has up to 20 buds. Crimson bracts as they bloom change color to straw. The flowers are blue-violet, do not last very long.
    • Tillandsia Anita (anita). The most popular of breeding hybrids, the “parent” is tillandsia blue. The leaves are scaly, lanceolate. The tip is very sharp, you can even prick about it. The flowers are pale blue, bracts are pink and purple. As they bloom, they turn green.
    • Tillandsia Andre (andreana). The stalk is long, leafy. Leaves are belt-shaped, thin, sometimes twisted in a spiral. They are covered with grayish-brown scales. The flower stalk does not form a plant; its inflorescence is apical. The flowers are bright scarlet, with a diameter of about 4 cm.
    • Tillandsia Arauje (araujei). Stem 25-30 cm tall, single or branching. Leaves are short, thick, 3–7 cm long, in the shape of a cylinder with a bent top. The peduncle is covered with pinkish scales. Bracts are raspberry, flowers are snow-white, with a diameter of 2-3 cm.
    • Tillandsia is bulbous or bulbous (bulbosa). In nature, forms entire colonies, covering the soil with a continuous carpet. The height of the stem varies from 5–7 to 18–20 cm. The leaf is about 30 cm long and 5–8 cm wide. At the base there is a noticeable swelling 5–6 cm in diameter, which then sharply thins. Peduncle covered with grayish-red scales. Bracts are green and scarlet, lavender flowers.
    • Tillandsia is bryophyte or usneoides, it is also "grandfather's beard." The most popular plant of the epiphytic group. Leaves are filiform, bluish or silver-gray, similar to cobwebs. Length - up to 5 cm, width - 1 mm. There are a lot of them, therefore, thanks to meter stems, a kind of “cascade” is formed. The plant looks very impressive when it falls from the stand. Does not need support. The flowers are small, pale yellow or yellowish green. There is a natural mutation in which they are bluish.
    • Tillandsia filamentous (filifolia). The height of the outlet is about 25 cm. The leaves are bright green, the peduncle is brownish. In inflorescence of 10-16 buds. The ear is very wide, almost triangular. The flowers are small (1-1.5 cm in diameter), pastel lilac.
    • Tillandsia bent (recurvata). The stems are up to 10 cm long and the outlet is slightly larger in height. The leaves are rather thin, soft, 15-17 cm long. Peduncle up to 15 cm high, pubescent. Each bract contains only 1-2 flowers. The petals are lilac or white.
    • Tillandsia silvery (argentea). The stem is short, up to 5 cm. The height of the rosette is about 25 cm. The leaves curved in a spiral curl are covered with a white or reddish “pile”, they leave randomly from its base. Length - 7-10 cm, width - no more than 2-3 mm. Peduncle smooth, straight or nickel. In the inflorescence of 6-8 flowers with pale scarlet petals.
    • Tillandsia is a double-edged (anceps). A very dense rosette of 40–50 leaves 18–20 cm long. Long raspberry strokes stand out against the general bright green background. Bracts are greenish-white, mallow-colored petals.
    • Tillandsia Linden (lindenii). In the outlet from 30 to 60 leaves. The average length is 20–25 cm, width is 1.5–2 cm. Bracts are raspberry or crimson. The flowers are large (more than 5 cm in diameter), dark blue. The bases of the petals are white.
    • Tillandsia violet-flowered (ionantha). Small rosettes of silver-green leaves. Bracts are bluish or lavender. When they form, the leaves in the center of the rosette gradually turn red.
    • Tillandsia Dyer (dyeriana). A rosette consists of leaves similar to pine needles. Bracts are coral, flowers are pale pink.
    • Tillandsia the head of Medusa (caput-medusae). The bases of the leaves in the outlet close so tightly that they form something that looks like an onion or a pseudobulb of an orchid. Their tips bend back. Bracts are burgundy or raspberry, flowers are bright blue. From afar, the plant resembles a jellyfish or squid.
    • Tillandsia sticking out (stricta). The leaves are in the form of very narrow triangles, similar to blades of grass. Length - 15–20 cm, width - 0.5–1 cm. Peduncles curved. Bracts from bottom to top change color from pastel pink to crimson. The flowers are bluish lilac.

    Photo: Tillandsia, popular with amateur gardeners

    In tillandsia sticking out, curved peduncles most often form

    Tillandsia Medusa's head really causes associations with a famous myth

    Tillandsia Dyer has very bright bracts and flowers

    Leaves in the center of the tillandsia violet-flowering outlet turn red as the peduncle forms

    Tillandsia Lindena - a fairly typical representative of the genus

    Tillandsia double-edged is easy to distinguish by snow-white bracts

    Tillandsia silvery looks so unusual that at all it does not seem to be representative of the terrestrial flora

    The leaves of tillandsia bent to the touch are quite soft, although you can’t tell by the appearance

    Tillandsia nitelist fully justifies the name

    Looking at tillandsia mossy, it is difficult to believe that this is a plant in general, and not a skein of thread

    Bulbous Tillandsia was named for its characteristic thickening at the base of the leaf

    Tillandsia Arauye has very rare white flowers

    Tillandsia Andre, unlike “relatives”, does not form a peduncle

    Tillandsia Anita - the most popular breeding hybrid

    Tillandsia blue is most often found in florist apartments

    Tillandsia fan is very reminiscent of tricolor tillandsia, they can be distinguished by a shade of bracts

    Tillandsia tricolor looks like a curled-up hedgehog

    Optimal conditions for the plant

    It is relatively simple to create a microclimate habitual for tillandsia in captivity. The plant in nature is accustomed to adapt to a wide range of not always favorable climatic and weather conditions.

    Table: how to create a flower suitable microclimate

    LocationWindow sill of a window facing east or west. The exception is tillandsia blue, which is better to put on the north window. Good ventilation and the absence of drafts are required. Any tillandsia needs enough space for free circulation of air currents. In summer, you can take the pot out into the open air. It is advisable to place it in partial shade, providing protection from wind and rain. Epiphytic tillandsia should ideally be kept in a special florarium or mini-greenhouse.
    LightingAny tillandsii categorically do not tolerate direct sunlight. The best option for "green" - bright diffused light throughout the year. In autumn and winter, you will need backlighting with fluorescent or special phytolamps. Epiphytic tillandsia feel comfortable in partial shade, in the back of the room with fully artificial lighting.
    TemperatureThe intense heat for the plant is destructive. In summer, it is desirable to maintain the temperature in the range of 22–28 ° C, in winter - lower it to 20 ° C. The “green” tillandsia will not survive “colds” below 18ºС, the epiphytic will die at 12ºС. Daily differences (especially in summer) are both normal.
    Air humidityFor tillandsian epiphytes, high air humidity (80% or more) is a vital indicator. Otherwise, they simply will not be able to absorb nutrients from the atmosphere. It is enough for “green” Tillandsia to cover the soil with wet sphagnum moss or coconut fiber in hot weather, create a “company” of other plants and spray it with soft warm water every 2-3 days. The optimal indicator of air humidity for them is 50-60%.

    A place for tillandsia is selected based on which group it belongs to

    Tillandsia, especially epiphytic, look very impressive in compositions. The most common option is a “bromeliad tree.” Creating an exclusive interior decoration is easy - the flower grower is limited only by his own imagination. To plants felt in such conditions, you must adhere to certain rules:

    • Do not use treated wood soaked with varnishes and other chemicals toxic to plants;
    • wrap the base of the outlet with wet sphagnum moss and only then attach it to the support;
    • if possible, fix them with wire (necessarily insulated), use glue only as a last resort.

    Tillandsia bromeliad tree looks very impressive

    Video: tillandsia in the florarium

    Small tillandsia feel great in the florarium

    Planting and Transplantation Procedure

    Tillandsia transplantation is needed only in order to move the acquired plant from an unsuitable store substrate for it. It does not differ in growth rate, therefore, before flowering, after which the rosette dies, it may well exist in one pot, even for 4–5 years. In this case, it is advisable to annually remove the upper 2-3 soil and replace it with fresh soil.

    The correct substrate for tillandsia is a little like soil in the usual sense of the word. You can buy ready-made soil for the bromeliads or orchids, or mix it yourself from the sheet soil, peat crumbs and finely chopped sphagnum moss (1: 1: 1). Another option is humus, peat, moss-sphagnum and coarse sand (4: 1: 1: 1). Be sure to add crushed birch charcoal or chalk (5-7% of the total volume).

    Tillandsia can be grown in a special soil for orchids

    The root system of tillandsia is poorly developed, it grows mainly in width, so choose a shallow pot, similar to a salad bowl or soup plate. It is better if it is made of unglazed ceramic - for proper air exchange.

    Tillandsia deep volume pot is completely unnecessary

    The transplant procedure itself looks like this:

    1. Water the plant abundantly. After 30-40 minutes, very carefully remove it from the pot, being careful not to damage even the thinnest roots. Ideally, an earthen lump should remain intact.
    2. At the bottom of the new tank, pour expanded clay with a layer 2-3 cm thick. Add about the same amount of fresh substrate from above.
    3. Place an earthen lump in the pot and start filling up the soil around the edges. In the process, you need to constantly tamp it so that the outlet holds tightly in rather loose soil. Underdeveloped roots do not always cope with this task.
    4. Remove the transplanted plant in partial shade. Do not water for seven days.

    Tillandsia transplant is carried out only by transshipment method.

    Important Nuances of Tillandsia Home Care

    Tillandsia is considered to be a difficult plant to care for. The main difficulties in its maintenance are related to watering.


    During the period of active vegetation, especially in summer, tillandsia very much needs moisture. Moreover, simply often and abundantly watering the ground is not enough, you need to pour water into the outlets themselves. The soil in the pot must always be moist (but not wet). Excess water from the pan must be drained; in sockets it is replaced every 3-4 days.

    The fact that the flower needs to be immediately watered is signaled by drooping leaves twisted into a tube. If such a drying out of the soil occurs, place the pot of tillandsia in a container of water so that it completely covers the soil for 10-12 hours. Then dry well and adjust the watering schedule.

    Additionally, the flower is sprayed daily (in heat, even 2-3 times a day). A warm shower is also useful for epiphytic plants, since it is impossible to water them.

    Spraying is an absolutely necessary procedure for tillandsia, especially epiphytic

    Water should be soft and heated to a temperature of 5–7 ° C above room temperature. Ideal - melt or rain. But the water supply can also be softened by letting it stand for 1-2 days, passing through a filter or boiling.

    Video: watering epiphytic tillandsia

    Fertilizer application

    Tillandsia is fed during the period of active vegetation, sprinkling approximately every two weeks with a solution of any complex fertilizer for flowering indoor plants or a special tool for orchids. In the first case, the concentration of the drug is reduced by half (for ordinary tillandsia) or four times (for atmospheric) compared with the recommended manufacturer. A little can be added to the outlet, but not every time.

    Root dressing is not recommended for tillandsia

    Root dressing for tillandsia is dangerous. You can burn thin brittle roots even with a weak solution. In principle, tillandsia will survive and even bloom without top dressing, but the application of fertilizers stimulates its growth and improves appearance.

    Pay attention to the composition of the fertilizer. It is advisable that copper be present there in a minimal amount or not at all. This trace element is toxic to any bromeliads.

    Rest period

    The rest period in tillandsia is not clearly expressed. Flowering can occur even in the middle of winter. The plant needs a very slight decrease in temperature. Lighting requirements remain the same.

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    In winter, the plant is watered about once every 3-4 days, allowing the soil to dry 1.5–2 cm in depth. Sprayed also less often - on average once a week. The latter does not apply to epiphytic tillandsia, which cannot survive without daily humidification.

    Feeding should be abandoned altogether. Otherwise, the “green” tillandsia will not bloom next year, and epiphytic can simply die.

    Video: how to care for tillandsia

    Common florist errors

    Unintentional florist mistakes make tillandsia look not the best way. Especially severely the plant suffers from too low humidity.

    Table: how errors in the care of tillandsia manifest

    The appearance of the plantPossible reason
    The mother socket is dry.After flowering, this is a natural process. At the same time, "offspring" are formed. Otherwise, this means a lack of moisture in both soil and air.
    The tips of the leaves turn brown.Too high temperature, low humidity or use for irrigation of cold and / or hard water.
    Leaves lose their stiffness, grow stiff, twist.The plant has not been watered for a long time, the soil is dry.
    The base of the outlet blackens and rots.Bay of flower, especially if the room is cool. Or root dressing instead of foliar.
    Discolored or yellow-brown patches on the leaves.The plant received burns due to prolonged exposure to direct sunlight.
    Very slow growth, deformed faded leaves.Light deficiency or improper soil.

    Browning and drying tips of the leaves of tillandsia indicate that the plant is not comfortable with too low air humidity

    Plant diseases and pests

    Like all bromeliads, tillandsia, with proper care, rarely suffers from diseases and pest attacks. Simple preventive measures in general can reduce the risk of infection to almost zero:

    • isolation of newly acquired plants within 20–25 days;
    • weekly inspection of the collection (preferably through a magnifying glass) and immediate quarantine of all colors with manifest suspicious symptoms;
    • free placement of pots on the windowsill, without crowding and crowding;
    • daily airing of the room, keeping the plants clean;
    • maintaining air humidity at a stable high level, proper watering;
    • top dressing in accordance with the recommendations;
    • use only disinfected soil, sterilization of pots and tools.

    Table: Tillandsian diseases and pests

    Disease or pestExternal manifestationsControl measures
    Root rotThe base of the outlet turns black, dark brown spots spread on the leaves. The fabric softens, the substrate is mold tight. The plant smells of rot.Heavily affected by rot the plant can only be destroyed. “Surgery” may help in the early stages, but it does not guarantee success.
    1. Cut off all leaves, including those with minimal damage. Sprinkle the slices with crushed chalk, charcoal, cinnamon.
    2. Perform a transplant, completely changing the ground and taking a new pot. In the substrate, mix the granules of Gliocladin, Alirina-B.
    3. For a month, water the plant with a 0.25% solution of Diskora, Vectra, Fitosporin or a solution of potassium permanganate (0.1 g / l).
    Brown spotting (phylosticosis)On the leaves, starting from the lowest, olive spots blur, gradually changing color to straw. The wrong side is covered with a continuous layer of green-gray-brown plaque.
    1. Cut off all leaves affected by the fungus. It is useless to remove individual sections of tissue. Spray the rest with a solution of potassium permanganate (0.25 g / l) or powder with sifted wood ash, colloidal sulfur.
    2. After 2-3 days, treat the rosette and soil with a solution of Abig-Peak, Strobi, Vitaros.
    3. Repeat the procedure at intervals of 7-10 days until the symptoms are completely eradicated.
    MealybugSmall “spools” as if from cotton wool between leaves, in the center of the outlet, at its base. Leaves quickly fade and dry.
    1. Spray the plant with soapy foam with added alcohol or vodka.
    2. After two hours, wash it under the shower, while removing the visible “spools” with a wooden stick.
    3. For 2-3 days, place a flower and a container with finely chopped onions or garlic under a plastic bag. If possible, try to make the "shelter" airtight.
    4. If the procedure does not work, use Tanrek, Rogor, Nurell-D. It will take 2-3 treatments with an interval of 5-10 days.
    Root wormThe leaves fade, the growth of the flower almost stops. The soil moves away from the edges of the pot, under it is a layer of whitish substance resembling wax. In the soil, especially at the roots - white blotches.
    1. Arrange a hot (45–50ºС) root bath for the plant, leaving it in the tank for 10–15 minutes. You can use not ordinary water, but a solution of Actara, Allound.
    2. Pour the soil with a solution of Apache, Dantop, Confidor-Maxi. Repeat for three months every 10 days.
    3. At the same time, every 2-3 days, spray the soil and the rosette with a decoction of cyclamen tubers.
    Bromeliad shieldSmall bulges of different shades of brown appear on the leaves (mainly on the inside). They quickly “swell”, the tissues around them acquire an unhealthy red-yellow color.
    1. Cover the shells of visible pests with turpentine, vinegar, engine oil. After a few hours, the guards can be removed.
    2. Wipe the leaves with soap suds, wash the plant.
    3. Treat with Fundazole, Permethrin, Metaphos. Repeat 2-3 more times with an interval of 7-10 days.
    WhiteflyGrayish-white insects, similar to moths, rise into the air, you just have to lightly touch the flower.
    1. Catch adult flies or fly traps. An ordinary fumigator is also effective if it works without a break for 2-3 days.
    2. Every day, early in the morning, vacuum the flower, collecting whiteflies.
    3. Spray the soil and leaves daily with infusions of hot pepper, dry mustard, and crumb tobacco.
    4. If there is no result, treat with Actara, Bitoxibacillin, Fury, Marshall. Repeat every 3-5 days until the butterflies completely disappear.

    Photo gallery: Tillandsian diseases and pests

    The whitefly is easy to detect and identify, but getting rid of is quite difficult.

    Folk remedies against scale insects are ineffective - they are reliably protected by a durable shell

    It is possible to accurately verify the presence of the root worm only if you remove the plant from the pot

    Leaves affected by the mealybug quickly turn yellow and dry

    Brown spotting spreads throughout the plant from bottom to top.

    Root rot can be treated only in the early stages of the disease

    Breeding methods

    The simplest and most prescribed method by nature itself is the rooting of daughter sockets, which are formed during the death of the mother after flowering. Nobody forbids to propagate tillandsia with seeds, but this method takes much more time and effort. You also have to be patient. New specimens will bloom no earlier than 5 years later. Sometimes you can wait 8-10 years. An exception is Anita's tillandsia, which forms bracts after 2–3 years.

    The easiest way to propagate epiphytic tillandsia. Only vegetative methods are suitable for it. It is enough to carefully untie the roots, dividing one plant into 2-3 “bunches”. Or separate one or several shoots, fix on a support and spray daily with a solution of a root stimulant.

    Rooting "offspring"

    The “babies” of tillandsia appearing around the mother plant most often already have roots. They need to be carefully “unscrewed” from the ground after they reach a height of about half that of her. Or when the “parent” dries, remove the plant from the pot and sift the soil. The easiest way is when there is only one “offspring”. It remains only to carefully remove the old outlet.

    Tillandsia forms affiliated sockets after flowering

    1. Fill small cups with a mixture of peat chips and coarse sand (1: 1). You can add a little chopped sphagnum moss. An expanded clay layer at the bottom and the presence of a drainage hole are required.
    2. Moisten the substrate gently and drop outlets. They do not need to be deeply buried.
    3. Place the containers in a mini-greenhouse or create a “greenhouse” using plastic bottles, glass jars, bags. Provide daylight hours of at least 14 hours and a temperature of about 25 ° C.
    4. Maintain the substrate all the time in a slightly wet state, spraying it with a solution of any root stimulant (3-5 ml / l). Open the greenhouse daily for 5–10 minutes to ventilate.
    5. After 2-3 months, transplant tillandsia into pots with a diameter of 7-10 cm, filled with soil suitable for adult plants.

    Reproduction by daughter sockets - a method provided by nature itself

    Seed germination

    Tillandsia seeds can be purchased without problems. Often the fruits ripen at home.

    Tillandsia seeds often ripen at home, if this did not happen, they can be purchased without problems in specialized stores

    1. Fill the flat containers with a mixture of peat and sand (1: 1). Moisturize and smooth the substrate well.
    2. Spread the seeds on the surface of the soil without deepening or falling asleep on top. Cover with glass or film.
    3. Provide the same conditions as the "offspring." Shoots should appear in 25-30 days.
    4. When the sockets reach a height of 4-5 cm, plant them in separate pots. Further care is normal.

    Video: methods of breeding tillandsia at home

    Florist reviews

    They gave me an unprepossessing flower from my lord’s shoulder, which they presented as tillandsia: a pair of stunted bushes with long prickly leaves in an old scary pot. I did not like the flower, I decided to give it to someone and even began to look for “good hands” for it. Not so easy. It’s a pity to give to anyone, it’s still a living soul, and it’s not his fault that he is so ugly. I decided to give him a new pot before breaking up. She began to transplant, she wondered what kind of crappy land he had - it looked like sand with some kind of garbage and expanded clay. Planted in ordinary garden soil, only more peat and sand, still looks like a cactus. And then I decided to read about him. And I realized that “sand with garbage” is a substrate specially prepared for it, such as where orchids plant. And it blooms wonderful (when it’s good for him). And I did it in ordinary land! I rushed to see what was happening to him, and saw that the leaves had straightened out and now they did not hang like washcloths, but looked up cheerfully, everything was green (from brown), and new ones began to grow. Now I’m racking my brains. The soil is not at all what he needs for him, but he likes it. By the way, I changed my mind about giving it to someone.


    Nothing to do with the tillandsia peduncle. When it fades, it gives birth to children, the mother plant may die out, or it may remain to live. The very second flowering of the Bromeliad could not wait. It is mentioned in the literature that the Bromeliads bloom once in a lifetime, after flowering they die, leaving the children, these children then grow and bloom for a third year ... And so on.


    Tillandsia is a mystery. Only the first flower dried, immediately on the other hand climbed the next, right symmetrically! But not yet revealed. Either it has been revealed for a long time, or something is missing for him, it would not have dried out. But already from the first side again the tip of the next flower appeared. I read that she can only hold two flowers at a time, no more, the rest are opened in order, in return for the deceased.


    I love Tillandsia very much. These are not quite ordinary babies who perfectly exist without the usual soil for plants. They take all the substances necessary for life from the air, air dust with the help of small scales with which their leaves are covered ... If you sprinkle atmospheric tillandsia with water, it turns green.


    I attached my little tillancies to the block. The substrate of live moss is attached to the cortex with a polyethylene mesh (from under vegetables), screwed the bottoms of tillandsia into the holes of the mesh. While the block lies, if the plants grow, it will be possible to hang. I defined life on a shelf with artificial orchids with artificial lighting, but there, however, heating from below is obtained. I will spray a little every day in the morning.


    Plants of the bromeliad family have this feature: after flowering ends, the old rosette gradually dies, having previously formed one or more children. Therefore, the appearance of dry spots in your tillandsia is probably associated with this process. If you now water it intensively, and even from above, decay can begin, which (not excluded), will affect children. If the children are already well formed, they can be deposited in very loose soil, although it is better to carry out this procedure closer to spring.


    My tillandsia grow without a terrarium. And I do not spray them, but water in a weak shower with orchids every other day. The head of the jellyfish has been living with me for about 5-6 years. There are bought with support - they are glued to silicone. Those that I bought separately are tied with soft elastic braid (from tights) to snags - this does not injure them. But I think there is another successful experience.


    Experience, so far, is not enough for me, but according to observations, the tillandsia of the ionant is definitely the most tenacious. And Fushi gracilis is the hardest winter, thin leaves. With central heating, it is definitely a bit dry for them all, but they should hold out until spring. Spray preferably with soft water, boiled or filtered. Maybe put a pallet with wet expanded clay under them? I measured the humidity of the house with the device: it shows 20%, this is horror for all living things.


    Tillandsia has a strong rosette of narrow dark green leaves up to 30 cm long. A large spike-shaped inflorescence of bright pink color grows in the middle of the rosette. In favorable conditions, small flowers of dark blue or purple begin to bloom from the scales of this ear. It is necessary to water such a flower often, but not to fill it. You can spray. Do not leave in direct sunlight. Such flowers do not like drafts. My first tillandsia began to bloom blue flowers, or rather, there was something like a kidney, but I opened the window to ventilate the room. It was also cold outside. In general, these buds died and the flower no longer bloomed. After 2 months, the pink color began to fade and gradually turned into green. Blue flowers bloom for about a week, and the spike lasts a very long time. When the pink color dims and then turns green, this means that the flower has begun to fade, it will soon begin to dry. My first tillandsia began to dry, but small children began to grow at a large outlet. I cut off the greened dried spike, and planted the children from the main outlet of the children in small pots. To plant tillandsia is very easy, with a slight effort to tear the baby from the main outlet and transfer it to the pot, add soil and you're done! I read on the Internet that the main flower should die, but I have both the main and the kids, though I slightly lowered the main leaf. Kids are not blooming yet. I read on the Internet that 3-4 years must pass for the children to bloom. Only a year has passed. You can feed a flower with special means that are suitable for orchids. In stores, such flowers are sold immediately with a pink spike, so you can buy this unusual flower for yourself and watch its development for several months and, unfortunately, drying out.


    Tillandsia is one of the most popular indoor plants from the Bromeliad family. Its unusual appearance and spectacular flowering immediately attracts attention. It is widely used to create interior compositions - here the owner is limited only by his own imagination. Tillandsia cannot be called a plant that is easy to care for, but all the forces and time expended by the grower are more than paid for by the originality of the culture.


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