Strawberry remontant: what is good and how to grow it

Repairing strawberry varieties are demanding for watering and top dressing, and some of them do not breed mustache. At the same time, these plants are highly resistant to diseases and do not require shelter for the winter. Thanks to continuous flowering, crops can be harvested from early June to late August. It is recommended to choose varieties with different ripening dates for planting on the plot, then it will be possible to enjoy ripe sweet berries almost all summer.

What does repair strawberry mean?

Strawberry of the repairing varieties has several flowering cycles and bears fruit several times during the summer with interruptions of 1.5–2 weeks. The ripening period of berries can last until the end of September, especially in the southern regions of Russia.

Strawberries of repair varieties can be enjoyed until the frost

Such a variety of strawberries does not tolerate drafts and shading, but it hibernates well without shelter. Modern selection allows you to feast on berries:

  • white-fruited, red, yellow, orange;
  • different shapes and sizes;
  • with a classic strawberry flavor, nutmeg and pineapple flavor.

Different varieties of strawberry remontant differ in shape, color and taste.

Varieties-repairants are plants of neutral daylight, regardless of the season, the fruiting of the berry culture does not interrupt, so the plant is often grown in pots on the windowsill. This strawberry needs to be changed every two to three years, it is better to have beds of different ages on the garden plot: last year's plants will give the smallest crop for the third year.

The ability of repair strawberries to lay buds at any time of the year, regardless of the continuation of daylight hours, does not guarantee a stable crop in closed ground. The size and taste of berries grown at home is significantly different from summer strawberries ripening in the beds. Even if you can get the berries on the windowsill, perhaps they will be smaller and sour.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of the strawberry

The first crop can be obtained at

10-14 days earlier than with classic varieties.

When planting seeds are lost

original parent

grade quality.

No need to warm the beds for the winter (in conditions

temperate climate).

Culture is more demanding: the soil must

regularly moisturize and loosen, it is necessary

periodically (with an interval of 2-3 weeks)

organics and mineral complex fertilizers.

Resistant to Strawberry Weevil

and fungal diseases.

Due to continuous fruiting, the plant

Ages quickly, the berry grows smaller.

How to grow refurbished strawberries

In order for the sweet, fragrant berries to grow on the bed one in one all summer, it is necessary to take seriously the choice of the placement of strawberries on the site and the preparation of the seat. It is necessary to carry out watering, treatment from pests and weeding in time, remove dry and damaged leaves from the site.

Regular weed removal and loosening of the soil in the aisle - mandatory measures on strawberry beds

Planting Strawberry Removable

Strawberries are planted in the spring: from March 20 to mid-May, and in autumn in early September (until the 10th day). During spring planting, the plant develops a powerful root system during the summer and gives the first modest yield for the sample. Most often in the spring, young seedlings grown from seeds are planted, and the separated mother bushes are two-year-olds.

In the south, strawberries begin to be planted from the first decade of March, in the middle lane from late March to the last decade of April. In the north, the best planting dates for removable strawberries are the third decade of May.

In autumn, the landing begins on the 20th of August and is completed by September 10. In order for the bushes to take root, it is necessary to plant 3 weeks before the predicted frosts. Autumn planting is suitable for propagation of strawberries with a mustache, at this time layering has well-developed roots.

When planting strawberries remontant at any time of the year, the daytime temperature should not be lower than +15 +18 ° С, at night higher than +5 ° С. The beds are located to the southeast, best of all to the south.

The strawberry plot is chosen sunny, located on a hill

Preparing the soil for planting

Removable strawberries grow well on loose light soils, sandy loams or loams with the addition of fertile peat 2-3 bucks per 1 m2 are perfect, chicken droppings 1.5 buckets per 1 m2 or 2 buckets of cow manure in the same area are enough. Before planting, the area is cleaned of weeds, roots and stones. To improve soil aeration and enrichment with useful substances, future beds are planted with green manure (phacelia, mustard, oats). This is done in the year preceding planting.

Oats are an excellent siderat of the cereal family, suitable for planting on future beds for strawberries

From autumn, I bring in square ammonia nitrate (100 g) per meter, ash - half a bucket and superphosphate (100–120 g) per meter. And also, in the process of preparing the site, I add a couple of buckets of rotted manure or when planting 1-2 handfuls in each hole, for the repair varieties, soil fertility is of great importance.


How to Grow Repairing Strawberry Varieties with Seeds

It is best to plant seeds of a repairing strawberry after stratification (holding seeds at a certain temperature to accelerate germination). They begin sowing in late January - early February, planting time is selected so that by the time of resettlement in open ground the plant is fully formed and matured. With late sowing (in late February), seedlings will have to be planted on the site in the summer heat. In this case, fragile young plants require shading and regular watering, that is, a later planting of troubles.

For the first time, I planted the seeds of a repairing strawberry in a jar of yogurt. Small and comfortable, easily fit in your hand, you could watch how barely noticeable shoots pecked. But after a month and a half, when the plants had three leaves, I had to plant bushes, as the soil in small containers quickly dried out. Important: strawberry seedlings do not tolerate waterlogging and drought alike, this causes instant death of fragile shoots.

I had to transplant small seedlings into cut-off liter plastic bottles (10 cm deep). In this bowl, the bushes calmly survived until they moved to the ground. But next time I took flower pots with a volume of 1.5 and 2 liters - it seemed most convenient for watering and loosening. A week after the emergence of seedlings, I fed the sprouts with baker's yeast: I took dry yeast at the tip of a knife per liter of warm water, this feeding took place regularly (every 5–7 days). Every two weeks, it was watered under the root with complex preparations: once with Aquarin, the second time with a gummed supplement. The next top dressing was carried out at the end of April already on a bed in open ground (tincture of mullein on water in the calculation of 1: 3 with the addition of 100 g of ash in a bucket of solution).

For planting, choose dishes with a depth of 10 cm filled with moist soil mixture, seeds are carefully scattered on the surface

The container with seeds was first covered with cling film to create a mini-greenhouse. After the seedlings hatch, the film will only harm - in such conditions, fungi and mold quickly develop on the soil surface. Sprouts are placed on the south window, excluding direct sunlight on plants. Gently watered under the root or sprayed as the soil surface dries. With a thin stick or the tip of a knife, gently loosen the top layer of soil along the mini-beds to improve air exchange in the roots.

Fragile strawberry sprouts require careful handling

In caring for strawberry sprouts, the first two months the main thing is not to harm. The most accurate watering is obtained from a syringe, it allows you to irrigate only the soil surface, it is easy to calculate the dosage of water up to drops. It is convenient to loosen with an ordinary toothpick. If thin shoots are watered too abundantly, they can stick to the soil and break. Loosening is also a delicate job, if you accidentally pick up fragile and long roots-hairs, the plant can be pulled out of the soil.

Video: strawberry seed remover

In the phase of three to four leaves, strawberries are dived when the fifth and sixth leaves appear - the plant can be relocated to the open ground. Pre seedlings are taken out for hardening on a balcony or a veranda. This is done daily for 2–4 hours a week before the seedlings are placed in a permanent place.

To get seed at home, the berries are kneading well in warm water, after 10-15 minutes the seeds settle to the bottom of the dishes. The contents are poured onto the surface of the prepared soil substrate and covered with a film for germination.

Planting strawberries

Seedlings of repairing varieties are planted on beds, the predecessors of which were siderata, root crops, and melon. It is better to do this in the morning or evening hours in cloudy weather at a temperature of + 15 + 20 ° С. In adult seedlings, the roots are shortened to 7-10 cm.

  1. Before planting, the soil on the beds is mixed with superphosphate (150 g per 1 m2) and 1.5–2 buckets per square meter of rotted soft manure. The width of the beds is 2-3 meters, the distance between the bushes: 25-30 cm for small-fruited repairers, about 40 cm for large-fruited varieties.
  2. In the holes make indentations of 10 cm watered (enough liters per bush).
  3. Plants are carefully removed from the containers for seedlings, taking care not to damage the long, thin roots, lowered into the planting hole and carefully sprinkled with soil. It is important to ensure that the growth point is not sprinkled, and the leaves do not stick together and jam.
  4. The basal space is mulched with small sawdust.

When planting, make sure that the plant is not deeply buried

When the beds are ready, I form holes in which I put 2-3 granules of the drug from the bear. It is this pest that most often does not allow plants to develop, eating up roots and young shoots at the base of the root. Since in the strawberry beds after planting, high humidity is always maintained in order for the layering and seedlings to take root, the bear always settles in the neighborhood. The pest prefers moist, loose soil, it is this soil that is prepared for planting strawberries.

After 2-3 weeks, the first leaflet will appear from the central kidney. It's time to make the first fertilizing with mineral fertilizers for seedlings (according to the instructions). The next fertilizer application is organized after 2 weeks, an infusion of organic matter and ash is prepared (1 kg of fresh manure, 1–2 g of boric acid and half a glass of ash per 5 liters of warm water) and 250–300 g per bush are used. The first two weeks water seedlings in the beds every 3-4 days.

Strawberry seedlings are ready for transplanting in open ground

If the weather is hot, the beds shade for the first time. To do this, dig in pieces of slate along the beds, leaving 20-30 cm above the ground. Strawberry seedlings are very sensitive to the sun, in the heat of leaflets quickly turn yellow and deteriorate.

Nadezhda K.

Planting pattern of strawberry remontant

Plant strawberries in well-lit areas, if necessary, the plant suffers partial shade without damage to the crop, provided that this happens periodically during the day. Landings try not to thicken, they are arranged in one and two rows, with a continuous carpet or tapeworms on decorative flower beds. But it is also convenient to grow this culture in greenhouses and greenhouses, in flower containers at home on the window. Strawberries get along well next to currants and gooseberries, onions and garlic, carrots, radishes, green peas, and undersized one-year-old flowers.

Repairing varieties bloom profusely for a long time, decorating any corner of the garden

In single-row beds 60–70 cm wide, bushes with an interval of 40–50 cm are placed. Such plantings are easy to process from weeds, strawberries are not thickened, therefore, they ripen faster and rot less.

Removable strawberries are placed on the plot in a single-row manner

But more often, strawberry remontant planted in a bush two-line way. Two beds are formed at a distance of 60–80 cm from each other. Strawberries are planted in a row, retreating 30–40 cm from each subsequent bush.

The two-line way of planting strawberries simplifies weeding and watering, avoids weathering and desiccation of soils

Often in the first year of planting, strawberry remontant, capable of letting out a mustache, is planted in one row. During the growing season, all mustaches that have been thrown away by mother bushes are directed parallel to the bed, placing young shoots in pre-prepared holes with a nutrient substrate. This method allows you to form a second row of strawberries.

Video: planting schemes for the maintenance of strawberries

To mulch strawberry beds in the row-spacings in the summer, I use ordinary cardboard boxes of products (disassembled) that utilize grocery stores - neatly, environmentally friendly and economical. Such a mulch is enough just for the summer. During the winter, the paper rots and decomposes.

Photo gallery: ways to place strawberries in the garden

Solitary planting option - strawberries in a wooden box

Strawberries in a round flower bed grow no worse than in a garden

Strawberries can braid the entire plot - carpeted planting

Strawberry remontant fruiting even in a pot

Strawberry propagation

Due to the high load, the bushes of the repairing varieties age very quickly, the main crop is obtained in the first year of fruiting, and less abundant in the second year. It is necessary to take care of the planting material of the repairmen in advance. It is recommended to renew the beds annually by planting young offspring or divisions (a bush divided into several parts with a developed root system).

Bush division

By dividing the bush, mainly beckless small-fruited strawberries propagate mainly.

  1. The plant is dug up and divided into several bushes with roots and central buds.
  2. Dip into a hole poured with water.
  3. Sprinkle the roots, slightly tamping the surface of the hands with your hands.
  4. Mulch with hay or oilcloth.

Mustache Reproduction

Propagation of garden mustard strawberries is usually not difficult. Plants are planted in the same way as young seedlings, observing the distance between the bushes and rows.

Video: how to get a lot of mustache from a repair strawberry

Seedlings of layering can be obtained by tucking them around the mother bush in the soil or lowering them into glasses with prepared fertile substrate . After rooting, choose well-developed large bushes (first and second order) with 2-3 leaves and transplanted to a permanent place. Separate beds are often taken away for mustache reproduction, with wider row spacing up to a meter, the distance between individual mother bushes is 50-60 cm, making room for a mustache.

Recent entries In April, I process roses so that no pests encroach on my beauties

5 Japanese plants that take root well in Central Russia

How do I protect seedlings from my curious cats

Video: strawberry propagation mustache

The peculiarity of the repair strawberry with a mustache is that in the first year of vegetation a large number of offspring appears, therefore the main period of propagation of the mustache is the first year of the plant's life. During the ripening of the berries, it is recommended to pick off the mustache, the more mustaches on the plant, the less abundant the crop and the berry is smaller.

Strawberry care after planting

During the growing season, repairmen yield several times more yield than ordinary traditional strawberry varieties, so they need fertile soil and regular organic fertilizing. The surface of the beds is mulched to preserve soil moisture and protect berries from rot during fruiting. As mulch, straw, hay, sawdust, needles, as well as oilcloth and lutrasil are used.

Natural materials are considered budgetary and do not require extra financial costs.

Strawberries are regularly loosened, young shoots (mustaches) must be removed if they do not need to be rooted for reproduction.

Video: Strawberry Maintenance


Strawberries are watered regularly, especially in hot, sunny weather. The irrigation process is carried out in the evening or in the morning, until the air has warmed above +25 ° C. For irrigation use settled water at least 15–20 ° C. Plants are watered under the root during mass flowering and during fruit ripening, the sprinkling method is used before and after flowering. The best option is drip irrigation of berry plantings.

The ideal option for irrigation of strawberry beds - drip irrigation

Top dressing

There are many options for strawberry fertilizer:

  • nitroammophoskos (potassium + phosphorus + nitrogen), superphosphate, potassium sulfate, urea;
  • organic matter in the form of chicken droppings (solution 1:20), cow manure (solution 1:10);
  • iodine, boric acid and manganese;
  • biological products (for example, Kemira);
  • self-cooking top dressing (infusion of herbs, baker's yeast, wood ash).

Strawberries are fed twice before flowering and 1-2 times in the intervals between the subsequent formation of peduncles.

  • Organics are introduced during the flowering period and during the formation of the ovaries - early to mid-May.
  • In early spring, nitrogen fertilizers (urea) are introduced, in late July - early August, when there is a break between fruiting, mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium are introduced, this will accelerate the formation of flower buds of the coming year.

Before fertilizing, the bushes are loosened to a depth of 7-10 cm, then fed “under the root” and watered abundantly

Video: homemade strawberry dressing

How to feed a potted remover strawberry

When growing strawberries in a pot culture, it is necessary to carefully monitor the soil moisture and regularly feeds it. In containers, the soil dries quickly and becomes less fertile, this can be judged by the yellowness of the lower leaves, the crushing of berries and the slow growth of the plant.

It is recommended to apply fertilizers for repair strawberries every 7–10 days, while mineral fertilizing is alternated with organic and herbal infusions.

  • Kemira, Kemira Lux and other complex non-chlorine preparations (according to instructions) are used as mineral fertilizers when grown in a pot.
  • Conventional organic matter per 1 kg of fresh cow dung per 5 liter bottle gives good results. The mixture is infused for a day and watered under the root of the plant - 150-200 g per bush.
  • You can brew nettle or a mixture of herbs - dandelion, wormwood, tansy - 200 g of fresh raw materials in 3 liters of water. The broth is allowed to infuse for 6-8 hours and pour strawberries on them. Such top dressing under the root not only enriches the soil, but also disinfects it.

Winter preparations

Closer to winter - from mid-September to early October, depending on the variety and region - the plants are prepared for wintering. At this time, watering is reduced and sanitary cutting of dry and damaged leaves is carried out. A mustache is cut, which appears before the first frost and pulls nutrients from the plant. In the northern regions strawberries are thrown with straw (layer 5-10 cm) to protect them from freezing.

Strawberries insulated for the winter with a layer of straw

Preventive treatment for diseases and pests

The spring treatment of strawberry plantings with urea and spraying with Topaz (early to mid-March before active growth) helps to combat gray rot.

To combat pests, beds are spilled with a solution of hydrogen peroxide (10 ml per 10-liter bucket of water). And also make a solution of two glasses of ash, filled with boiling water, add 2 g of boric acid, 2 g of potassium permanganate and 1 tablespoon of iodine. The mixture is abundantly sprayed with bushes in dry, calm weather.

Evgenia Yurievna

To get rid of slugs that spoil the crop and damage the leaves, spread planks or pieces of ruberoid 30 to 50 cm in size along the beds. In hot weather, pests gather in the moist soil that has remained beneath them, it is enough to collect the slugs and destroy them.

If you do not stop during the attack of slugs, you can lose most of the crop

In preparation for wintering, beds with strawberries are loosened and cultivated with Karbofos solution (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of warm water are pre-insisted for 3-4 hours).

Varieties of repair strawberries with description and characteristics

Существует несколько разновидностей клубники ремонтантной с усами и без, которую можно выращивать в открытом грунте, в ампельной форме и в теплице.

Таблица: наиболее известные самоопыляемые сорта ремонтантной клубники с описанием и характеристикой

Grade nameОписание и характеристика
Руяна (чешская селекция)
  • конусообразные ярко-красные ягоды (масса 4–6 г);
  • насыщенный земляничный аромат;
  • переносит избыток влаги в почве и тень;
  • сорт устойчив к серой гнили, плодоносит всё лето.
Рюген (немецкая селекция)
  • овальные насыщенно-красные ягоды (вес 5–6 г), мякоть желтовато-белая сочная;
  • чашелистики обычно окрашены в красноватый цвет;
  • зацветает в первых числах июня;
  • для непрерывного плодоношения необходимо обеспечить достаточным количеством света.
Барон Солемахер (голландская селекция)
  • ягоды с выпуклыми вкраплениями имеют выраженный земляничный аромат, ярко-красные (вес не больше 4 г);
  • редко поражается серой гнилью;
  • славится длительным плодоношением (до заморозков).
Холидей (американская селекция)
  • низкорослый (до 25 см);
  • красные с розовой мякотью ягоды имеют форму конуса (вес 12–15 г);
  • сорт морозоустойчивый.

Фотогалерея известных самоопыляемых сортов ремонтантной клубники

Неприхотливая Руяна приживается и плодоносит одинаково хорошо на рыхлых песчаных почвах и на тяжёлых чернозёмных

Ароматные ягоды сорта Рюген созревают в начале июня

Безусый сорт Барон Солемахер одним из первых завоевал отечественные садовые участки благодаря неприхотливости и урожайности

С одного куста клубники Холидей можно собрать до 7 кг ягод

Безусая ремонтантная клубника сорта с описанием и характеристикой

Такая клубника не имеет дополнительную нагрузку, которую получают кустики, дающие обильные усы во время плодоношения.

  • Безусые ремонтанты легко размножаются делением куста и семенами.
  • Устойчивы к понижению температуры.
  • Отличаются более длительным периодом созревания ягод.

Таблица: лучшие ремонтантные сорта клубники без усов

Grade nameОписание и характеристика
Белоснежка (российская селекция)
  • ягоды в виде капельки с нежным привкусом ананаса, слегка кислят (вес около 6 г);
  • созревают во второй декаде июня;
  • плодоносит клубника до заморозков;
  • сорт низко аллергенный.
Вима Рина (голландская селекция)
  • ягоды красные, блестящие, плотные, весят от 8 до 20 г;
  • мякоть кисловатая, светло-розовая;
  • плодоношение с первой декады июня до середины сентября;
  • сорт устойчив к засухе и грибковым болезням.
Клубника Жёлтое чудо (датская селекция)
  • сладкие ягоды с фруктовым ароматом (вес от 3 до 5 г) имеют форму бочонка;
  • ранний сорт плодоносит до конца сентября;
  • морозоустойчив.
Клубника Любаша
  • кустики низкорослые ( до 20 -25 см);
  • ягоды круглые с острым кончиком, насыщенно-красные (вес 16–22 г);
  • редко поражается серой гнилью, но слабо устойчив к земляничному клещу;
  • сорт самоплодный;
  • устойчив к засухе.
Клубника Кокетка
  • сорт созревает в конце мая;
  • ягоды набирают до 25 г, вкус кисло-сладкий, мякоть светлая;
  • цветоносы длинные, прямостоячие;
  • подходит для выращивания в засушливом климате.
Клубника Али Баба
  • ягоды круглые, ароматные, вес от 8 до 14 г;
  • период созревания — 20-е числа июня;
  • устойчив к заморозкам;
  • редко поражается серой гнилью и вредителями.

Фотогалерея: лучшие ремонтантные сорта клубники без усов

Белоснежка с тонкими ананасными нотками благодаря отсутствию красного пигмента подходит аллергикам

Ягодки Вима Рины похожи на плоды садовой клубники с традиционным плодоношением

Клубника Жёлтое чудо не боится морозов, поэтому прижилась на садовых участках на Урале и в Сибири

У засухоустойчивой клубники Любаша ягодки все одинаковые, а семена при полном созревании краснеют

Клубника Кокетка похожа на луговую землянику и вкусом, и формой

Ароматное варенье получается из мелкоплодной клубники Али Баба

Сорта клубники ампельной ремонтантной с описанием и характеристикой

Преимущества ампельных сортов в том, что они не только декоративны, но и позволяют лакомиться полезными ягодами всё лето.

Крупноплодная клубника Гирлянда плодоносит с конца июня почти до начала сентября, размножается усами. Нежно-розовые ягоды с кислинкой весят до 30 г, имеют форму конуса. Так как ампельные гибриды чаще всего растут в кашпо и горшках, на дне посадочной тары должен быть хороший дренаж, поверхность необходимо постоянно рыхлить — сорт не переносит переувлажнения почвы.

Ремонтантная клубника Гирлянда не терпит переувлажнения, устойчива к серой гнили

Клубника Искушение с красными вытянутыми по форме ягодами (вес до 35 г) выглядит декоративно и украшает грядки благодаря высоким побегам с многочисленными цветами. Пышный куст подвязывают к шпалере или дают свободно свисать, при этом горшок с клубникой подвешивают на расстоянии 1, 5–2 метра от земли на солнечном закрытом от сквозняков месте. К морозам слабо устойчива.

Клубника Искушение не выносит низких температур, выращивается в южных регионах и на юге Черноземья

Ремонтантные сорта клубники для теплиц с описанием и характеристикой

Для выращивания в закрытом грунте специалисты рекомендуют известный ремонтантный сорт Елизавета 2 с длительным непрерывным плодоношением, мелкоплодный Александрия, гибрид чешской селекции Сельва . Эти сорта клубники культивируют для получения круглогодичного урожая в теплицах.

Таблица: ремонтантные сорта клубники для теплиц

Grade nameОписание и характеристика
Елизавета 2
  • растение обоеполое, усов образует мало;
  • урожай собирают с конца мая до середины сентября;
  • средний вес ярко-красных ягод с кислинкой 25–30 г;
  • размножается делением куста и семенами.
Александрия (швейцарская селекция)
  • cone-shaped bright red berries with a glossy tint weigh 6–8 g;
  • matures in mid-June;
  • fructifies to frost;
  • the plant is resistant to diseases and pests;
  • the beardless variety is propagated by seed.
Selva (Czech selection)
  • bears fruit from May to October;
  • the average weight of berries is 40 g;
  • crisp, white flesh, oval berries;
  • propagated by division of the bush;
  • the grade does not tolerate a lack of moisture and heat.
Fragrant basket (Russian selection)
  • berries elongated with dense white pulp, ripen in early June;
  • fragrant, similar to wild strawberries, weigh 2–4 g;
  • the variety does not give layering;
  • propagated by seeds and division of the mother bush;
  • the variety is drought tolerant.

Photo gallery: repair strawberry varieties for greenhouses

Strawberry Elizabeth 2 bears fruit from May to the end of September

In the variety Alexandria, the berries are not large, but fragrant and sweet.

Strawberry Selva is highly immune to diseases, it is also not very attractive for pests

Strawberries Fragrant basket are enjoyed in early June

Other varieties of strawberry remontant

There are more than 30 known varieties of strawberry remontant, having positive reviews from experienced gardeners. Harvest and weather-resistant European and domestic hybrids, little-known and being on varietal testing, are grown by both ordinary summer residents and farmers on an industrial scale.

Table: Other modern varieties of strawberry remontant

Grade nameDescription and characteristic
Monterey (American Breeding)
  • medium early variety (first crop from June 10–15);
  • berries are dense, aromatic, rich red (weight 30–40 g);
  • strawberries yield 3-4 crops with interruptions of 1.5–2 weeks;
  • propagated by a mustache;
  • heat-loving grade.
Letizia (Italian selection)
  • berries are orange-red, dense, weight 40-60 g;
  • late variety, ripens in early July;
  • fruiting until mid-September;
  • resistant to fungal diseases.
  • berries elongated conical up to 60 g;
  • the variety is heat-loving, does not tolerate excess moisture and dampness;
  • stepsons forms a little.
San Andreas (Italian hybrid)
  • round sweet and sour berries from 40 to 70 g;
  • a beardless variety, propagated by division of a bush;
  • resistant to gray rot.
Moscow delicacy
  • berries are sour, shiny, have a pronounced berry aroma, weight 6-8 g;
  • frost-resistant, resistant to a sharp drop in temperature grade;
  • propagated by a mustache.

Photo gallery: other varieties of strawberry remontant

Strawberry Monterey blooms and bears fruit 3-4 times per season

Elsinore Strawberry is a large-fruited, remontant variety with fragrant berries

Strawberry Letizia gives a plentiful harvest in a continental climate

Strawberry San Andreas bears fruit in 5-week intervals before the first frost

Strawberries Moscow delicacy can be easily identified by stupidly flattened berries with deeply planted seeds

Removable strawberry varieties suitable for cultivation in the regions

Most of the well-known varieties of repair strawberries are grown everywhere due to their frost resistance and unpretentiousness. When choosing a variety, it is important to focus on growing conditions in the climatic zone. Given that there are small-fruited and large-fruited varieties, sweet and sour, the taste preferences of the gardener when choosing strawberries play an important role.

Video: the best varieties for growing in the regions of Russia

Varieties of strawberries remontantny for cultivation in Moscow suburbs

Varieties that tolerate waterlogging and are resistant to return frosts are suitable for the Moscow Region. Alexandria and Ryugen, amazing strawberry taste. The Yellow Wonder, a favorite of Moscow delicacy in recent years, Ruyan, with delicate strawberry notes of Lyubasha - the most unpretentious and suitable for growing in a variable climate. As an ampel plant, they plant a variety of Garland.

Varieties of strawberries remontantny for cultivation in a central zone of Russia

The most famous repairing varieties - early ripe Baron Solemacher, fragrant Rujana, large-fruited Selva, Rugen - are frequent guests in garden plots in Central Russia, the Volga region, Chernozemye. Elsenore, Holiday adapted to the temperate climate. Lyubava and Zolotinka bloom profusely and bear fruit up to 2 years. The most common varieties are Ali Baba and Alexandria, it is they who give preference to gardeners, as the most unpretentious repairmen.

Varieties of strawberry remontant for growing in Siberia and the Urals

Basically, for cultivation, varieties are selected that easily tolerate frosts and bear fruit continuously during the season:

  • Rugen
  • Alexandria.
  • Baron Solemacher.
  • Ruyan.
  • Yellow miracle.
  • Yoshkarolinka.
  • Yoke.

Even in the Siberian climate, you can find small-fruited varieties of remontant strawberries - they are the most resistant to return cold weather. In Siberia, it is necessary to warm strawberries for the winter with a layer of mulch from straw. In the first decade of May, it is recommended to cover early varieties at night with non-woven materials to protect flowering shoots from frost.

Removant varieties of strawberries for growing in Belarus

In the southern regions of Belarus varieties Monterey and Selva are grown, here you can find fruitful Elizabeth 2 and Albion, a fragrant Forest tale on garden plots; ampel hybrids - Temptation and Garland. These are mainly varieties that tolerate drought and hot weather. In the regions located to the north, they cultivate strawberries Rugen, recently gained distribution by Yoshkoralinka, Moscow delicacy, Baron Solemacher, unpretentious strawberries Vima Rina, a novelty of the last decade, the variety Charlotte. Heat-loving varieties (for example, Monterey) require additional shelter for the winter.

Video: the best variety of repair strawberries in Belarus


I planted it very simply: superficially in a greenhouse on a moist soil + sprinkled on top of a spray gun. Closed and did not even air. They came up, now with real leaves. Of course, I’ll stretch the soil higher. In the past and the year before last, she grew strawberries on the balcony (Rugen, Alexandria). In the first year, I planted bushes in ordinary flower pots, 12 cm. Already in the middle of summer, this volume turned out to be catastrophically small, solid roots in pots. In the second year I planted in a high 20-liter volume of about 5 liters. Strawberries were not greedy for the crop, it was like in a garden. This is such an experience, so this year I will also allocate at least 5 l pots for each bush.


I had the berry of ampelous strawberries blooming in red flowers, and I sowed the seeds. So far I planted 5 liters each in cut-off bottles from water. I wrapped it in foil so that it would not bloom in transparent greens. This is simply the largest packaging I could find. All the pots and my pots turned out to be less. There are also balcony boxes of 60 and 40 centimeters. For that year, I’ll look: whether I’ll leave it in bottles in the future, or I’ll put it in boxes, according to the circumstances.


She planted a repairing strawberry until mid-October - the survival rate is excellent, the bushes, most importantly, do not get wet and do not vyprit. And in the spring planting, you need to feed when the bush takes root in a new place, immediately after the transplant nothing is fed. Only 10 days after the spring transplant ... I put a tablespoon of urea and half a spoonful of boric acid on a bucket of water. Ash wood is also very good to shed. In general, until there is no flower, chemistry can be shed. Ash all the time. And threw the flower away - that's it. I do not water chemistry. I insist on ash for a week with a liter jar in a bucket of water and then I dilute a liter of solution in a bucket. I pour a watering can on a 12-meter bed of 4-5 watering cans. Watering can is good, because it turns out foliar top dressing right away.


Harmonious taste and decorativeness, long fruiting and high productivity - this is what is most appreciated in the repair strawberry. Varieties selected for a specific climatic zone and planted in fertilized, loose soil will please with abundant fruiting for more than one year. Regular irrigation of the berry plantation and the introduction of organic fertilizing and mineral fertilizers are a guarantee of successful cultivation of crops and high yields.


Supports for climbing plants: what can be built for the “climbing” inhabitants of the garden?
Care and breeding of nephrolepis at home
My report on the construction of a wooden fence with sliding gates