Strawberry Malvina - large, sweet, late

Strawberries are the favorite and most popular culture grown in summer cottages. Sweet, fragrant berries are loved not only in our country, but also abroad. Breeders of the whole world are working on the creation of new species. German scientists gave strawberry lovers a good gift - a new variety called Malvina, which, due to its large, beautiful and tasty fruits, quickly gained popularity among gardeners.

Malvina Strawberry Variety History

Sweet and fragrant strawberries are loved by both adults and children. Therefore, many summer residents are trying to follow fashion trends in the market. So, for those who want to keep pace with the achievements of selection in this direction, we present - Strawberry Malvina. The variety is new, it appeared on the market in 2010, but it is already being used by connoisseurs.

Malvina is the result of hybridization of Sophie and the clone from Schimmelpfeng and Weihenstefan. The author was a German breeder Peter Stoppel.

Strawberry Malvina sets late fruiting records among modern varieties - the latest

Grade description

Reaching 50 cm in height and 40–50 cm in diameter, the Malvina bushes look strong and powerful. Variety multi-path - one plant throws from 5 to 8 pedicels, each of which can contain up to 6 bisexual flowers. The leaves are large, with a shiny surface, dark green in color, are located horizontally to the surface of the earth, preventing the rapid drying of the soil in hot weather. Below them are flower stalks.

The plant blooms in early June, and fruiting occurs in the last quarter of June

On average, the weight of berries ranges from 35 to 45 g, individual specimens can grow up to 80 g. The fruits are bright and attractive, densely red in color, with a shiny glossy surface. A well-ripened berry will have a cherry hue. The shape of the fruit resembles a shortened cone with a raised surface.

By consistency, the flesh of Malvina is very dense, but juicy. The variety is classified as dessert because of the high sugar content in berries. The aroma is bright and pleasant.

Tasters highly appreciate the sweet taste of strawberries - 4.6 points out of 5 possible.

Grade characteristics

With proper care from one bush, 0.5-1 kg of fruits are collected. Having a dense consistency and strong skin, the berry tolerates long transportations, which allows it to be grown for sale.

Malvina is a late-ripening variety, the first fruits can be tasted at the end of June. The fruiting period lasts until mid-July.

The ripening period of the berry is affected not only by weather conditions, but also by the age of the plant: the older the bush, the later it bears fruit.

Thanks to bisexual flowers, the variety does not need pollinators. Therefore, even in windy and rainy weather, when pollinating insects are rare guests in the garden, the crop will ripen on time. In the period of wet and rainy weather, when the berry starts to deteriorate in most varieties, Malvina does not lose its taste.

The frost resistance of the variety is not bad - up to -19 ° C. In the southern regions, in the absence of snow cover, the variety tolerates the winter season. It grows well in the middle zone of Russia, but under cover material.

The variety shows good immunity to powdery mildew and gray rot. But susceptible to Fusarium and verticillosis, as well as the effects of weevil and thrips.

How to plant strawberries Malvina

Tall and powerful bushes require a special planting scheme. Strawberries cannot tolerate thickening, so you should try to allocate as much space as possible for it.

Site selection

To plant strawberries, choose a smooth, well-lit, windproof area, you can on a small slope. The beds need to be located from north to south or southwest.

The area for strawberries should be flat, well-lit and in a place protected from the wind

Loose, cultivated and weed-cleaned soil is suitable for strawberries. Malvina will give good harvests on loams, chernozems and sandstones.

For strawberry beds, the following sections will not work:

  • in the shade, under the crowns of mature trees - the yield will be small, the berry will be small;
  • in the lowlands - the accumulation of cold air can postpone the time of harvest ripening by 10 days;
  • on steep slopes - the soil dries too quickly and the soil is washed out. Exposure of the root system is unfavorable on the development of strawberries;
  • with the occurrence of subsoil water above 70 cm to the surface - during the snowmelt, the roots will be flooded, the plant will die;
  • with sandy soils - in such areas of strawberries there will not be enough water and nutrients.

Malvina variety is grown in one place for up to 5 years. Alternate berry planting with:

  • legumes;
  • greens;
  • root vegetables (beets, carrots, radishes, turnips, radishes);
  • cabbage;
  • flowers (marigolds or bulbs, for example, daffodils, tulips).

It is not recommended to plant strawberries after:

  • Pumpkins
  • zucchini;
  • cucumbers
  • watermelons and melons;
  • tomatoes.

Potatoes are especially depressing strawberry plantings due to specific root secretions.

Seedling selection

Choose well-formed and strong plants with 3 to 5 leaves. Weak bushes are more susceptible to disease and low yielding. Healthy seedlings must meet the following requirements:

  • the roots are light, fibrous, 5–7 cm long. The dark color of the root system indicates the age or illness of the specimen;
  • leaves should be bright green, with no signs of damage;
  • the central kidney has no signs of rot and parasite exposure.

When buying seedlings, you should pay attention to the heart - it should be without signs of disease and pest damage

Site preparation

A bed for strawberries is prepared in advance: if you plant in the autumn, then at the end of summer, if in the spring, dig and fertilize in September. It is necessary for the soil to settle and structure after processing.

  • The site is dug up as deep as possible, about 20-30 cm. Strawberries do not tolerate a high concentration of salts in the soil, so it is advisable to apply fertilizers during the preparation of the soil, and not when planting in the holes. So the nutrients dissolve and are easily absorbed by the plant.
  • On 1 m2 of a site with loamy soils for digging, one bucket of well-rotted manure or compost is brought. Instead of organics, you can use nitroammophosk or nitrophosk - 2 tbsp. l on 1 m2.
  • Up to 3 buckets of rotted manure or compost are added to sandy soil per 1 m2; you can add sawdust.
  • To add looseness to heavy clay soils, 3-4 kg of river sand and 2–3 buckets of organic matter are necessarily added (based on 1 m2 of plot).

The soil should be neutral or slightly acidic. At pH below 5.5, liming is carried out with dolomite flour. The application rate of 4 kg per 1 m2. Validity is up to 4 years, that is, for the period of growing strawberries in this section, the procedure is carried out once.

To give the sandy soil the desired structure for digging, along with organic matter, sawdust is introduced

Landing time

Summer planting is not recommended for Malvina; spring is considered more promising. Malvina's strawberries bear fruit late, planting is possible only after the plant has laid the buds, in late August or September. But if early colds come, the seedlings may not take root and freeze.

Planting dates in the spring vary depending on the region. In the southern regions, strawberries are planted in the middle or end of April, in the middle lane - in early May.

According to many experienced summer residents, it is spring that is the best time to plant Malvina

Planting Strawberries Malvina in a few steps

Landing is carried out on cloudy days or in the evening. If you plant seedlings in the sun, moisture will evaporate greatly and unrooted bushes will die.

To mark the rows, use a stretched rope to make the bed even.

The overgrown roots before planting need to be shortened to 5–7 cm, then dipped in a clay mash (clay mixed with mullein and water to a creamy state).

The standard scheme for planting strawberries of this variety is not suitable. Tall bushes require more free space so that everyone gets the right amount of sunlight. With the most popular two-line landing (in two rows along the edges of the beds), the distance between the bushes is 50 cm; between rows - 70 cm.

How to plant strawberries:

  1. Dig holes for a measured distance of 25x25 cm.
  2. Spill them well and lower the seedlings vertically into the recess. Do not bend or twist the roots.
  3. The heart should be strictly at the level of the soil. Deepening will lead to decay, and a high landing will lead to drying out.

    After planting, the strawberry heart should be flush with the ground

  4. Lightly compact the earth around the bush.
  5. Water the seedlings again, not just under the root, but around the plant. After absorbing moisture, mulch the surface of the earth.

The first harvest will not be plentiful, but next year strawberries will yield more fruits.

Planting strawberries on agrofiber - video

Landing Rules

When performing agrotechnical work, it is better to take into account the characteristics of a particular variety, because each of them requires individual care. It is important to understand what you want to get: if you have a good harvest, you need to trim all the strawberries mustache, if seedlings, you need to sacrifice the crop.


For the normal rooting and development of strawberry seedlings planted in spring, almost daily watering is needed in the summer. But they need to be carried out in the evening, so that drops of water that fall on the leaves do not cause a burn.

If planting was carried out in autumn, the bushes begin to be watered with the onset of the growing season - at the end of April. Until the summer, watered once a week (30 liters per 1 m2). From June to early autumn, the frequency increases to 2 times a week, but precipitation should also be taken into account.

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Watering must be carried out:

  • at the time of formation of ovaries;
  • when the berries are poured and there is abundant fruiting;
  • during the laying of flower buds of the future harvest.

Malvina can withstand short-term droughts, but with insufficient moisture the berry will become bitter and will be smaller.

If possible, give preference to drip irrigation of strawberries.

Top dressing

Top dressing should be carried out regularly:

  1. At the beginning of foliage growth, it is necessary to introduce nitrogen into the soil, which will ensure the formation of berries. To do this, you can use a solution of ammonium nitrate, which is introduced by the foliar method (15 g per 1 m2). A good fertilizer option is 10 g of urea per 1 m2 of soil, as well as a solution of bird droppings (1:50) or cow manure (1:10).
  2. During flowering, strawberries contribute 15–20 g (per 1 m2) of complex mineral fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus, nitrogen, and potassium.
  3. After picking berries, in order to form strong fruiting buds, a third top dressing is carried out: 15–20 g of sodium chloride or superphosphate are added per 1 m2 of soil.
  4. Topping strawberries with superphosphate will increase the palatability of the fruit. For the season, it is recommended to apply fertilizer 3-4 times. The most effective solution is a solution of cow manure (1: 6), ash (1 cup per 10 liters of water) and 40 g of superphosphate.

As a dry top dressing, ash can be added, which replaces superphosphate. It is scattered between rows: once in the spring, with mulching of the soil, the second after fruiting and pruning of bushes. You can make an infusion and water them with beds as a liquid top dressing. For a solution, take 1 glass of ash and pour 1 liter of boiling water. Insist day, filter and add another 9 liters of water. For watering 1 m2, 1 liter of mixture is enough.

Organic Solutions - Essential Nutrition to Increase Strawberry Yields

Loosening and weeding

To maintain cleanliness in strawberry plantings, be sure to weed. Thus, you not only save the plant from competitors for food and moisture, but also allow the bushes to get enough lighting. Weeding carefully, so as not to damage shallow roots. Weedy grass grown in the bush must be carefully trimmed with scissors.

Loosening and weeding keep strawberry plantings clean

A day after watering or rain, loosening should be carried out. It improves heat and gas exchange in the soil and significantly reduces the rate of evaporation of the fluid needed to moisten the roots.

When the process of ovary formation begins, loosening stops, and mulch is poured on the bed with strawberries.


Mulching is a great way to get rid of the need to often weed and loosen plantings. It slows the growth of weeds and reduces the evaporation of moisture after watering. The benefit is that the berry lying on the substrate dries quickly and remains clean even after heavy rain.

Many summer residents use black film as a mulch, but it does not allow air to pass through, and strawberry roots prey, forming pathogenic microflora.

Mulch slows the growth of weeds and reduces the evaporation of moisture after watering

Strawberry care after fruiting

After harvesting the last berries:

  • weed (very carefully) the weed beds, remove the unnecessary mustache, cut off the old leaves;
  • collect dried leaves from the earth in which the spreading of diseases and pests live;
  • fertilize with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and treat the bushes from parasites.

These simple tricks will help strawberries prepare for winter and survive it safely.

Autumn strawberry care involves harvesting dried leaves

Winter shelter

Malvina tolerates frosts well if there is a natural shelter in the form of snow cover. But in regions with an unstable climate, where frost gives way to thaws, then again lowering the temperature, you need to take care of how to insulate the beds with strawberries.

A thick layer of mulch from dry grass, straw, corn leaves, sawdust, spruce spruce or pine needles will protect plantings well. If the site is in an open area, agrofibre or a greenhouse on arcs will do.

You can cover strawberries for the winter with pine or spruce spruce branches

Each method of protection has its drawbacks. Field mice can settle in the straw, they will probably spoil the roots of strawberries, and the needles strongly acidify the soil.

In the southern regions, where winters are not snowy, but rather mild, the issue of covering material for strawberries is not so acute - Malvina will be able to survive the winter in the open ground.

Malvin's Diseases and Pests

The Malvina variety is considered resistant to diseases, but there is always a risk of defeating one or another of them.

Malvina strawberry diseases and pests - table

Diseases and


SymptomsControl measuresPrevention
VerticillosisFungal disease develops in the soil. The main symptom is dried lower leaves. The bush is poorly developed, the petioles acquire a reddish hue. The root system becomes loose, changes color. Berries are covered with rot. 2-3 years after infection, the bush dies.The following fungicides are used to combat the disease:
  • Fundazole - 10 g per 10 liters of water. Apply before flowering.
  • Bordeaux fluid. Prepare a 3% solution of 300 g of the drug and 10 l of water.
  • Biological product Phytocide-r is used for watering the soil in the evening. The solution is prepared from 10 ml of the drug and 10 l of water. This amount is calculated on 100 bushes.
  • For strawberry cultivation, use only healthy planting material.
  • Observe crop rotation. Use mustard as a precursor, which reduces the amount of the pathogen in the soil by 20 times.
  • Remove strawberries with signs of prolonged damage from the garden and burn.
FusariumThe first signs appear as reddish spots on the leaves. Mustache and shoots turn brown. Leaves twist

inside, the ovary ceases to form. The bush settles as if. After 1-1.5 months, the plant dies.

The site is treated with one of the drugs:
  • Chorus;
  • Fundazole;
  • Benorad.

If the bushes had to be removed, the soil under them was watered with Nitrafen. All drugs are used in accordance with the instructions.

  • Fight weeds and pests.
  • Thin out landing regularly.
  • Select only healthy seedlings.
  • Follow the crop change schedule on the site.


It appears in the form of brownish-brown spots on both sides of the leaf. With the spread of the disease, the spots merge, increasing the area of ​​the lesion. The entire leaf blade turns red and dries. The same traces of damage are visible on other parts of the plant - pedicels, petioles, mustaches. The berries become small and dry.Good indicators in the fight against the disease showed:
  • copper oxychloride;
  • Bordeaux liquid;
  • Falcon;
  • Euparen;
  • The Order

Treat in spring and autumn.

  • Grow strawberries in ventilated areas.
  • Fight weeds and remove affected bushes in time.
  • Do not overfeed with nitrogen.
  • Use healthy seedlings.
WeevilIt is dangerous because it damages the petioles and leaves. When buds appear, the pest lays eggs inside. The emerging larva eats the bud from the inside.During budding, spray strawberries with one of the drugs:
  • Spark Bio;
  • Fitoverm;
  • Angio;
  • Admiral.

Treat in dry, calm weather. If it rains after treatment, you will have to spray again.

  • In autumn, you need to collect all dry leaves and destroy.
  • On the bed you can plant onions or garlic. The smell will scare away the pest.
  • Beetles need to be shaken off on a light cloth spread under a bush.
  • The bud with the bitten peduncle to tear and destroy.
ThripsIt leads to deformation and falling of strawberry leaves. Peduncles suffer from insects, and berries become dull and acquire a brown hue.Every week before flowering, the following is carried out:
  • Actara;





Each drug is accompanied by instructions.

  • Folk remedies, such as soap solution, help well.
  • Do not allow waterlogging of the soil.
  • Remove damaged leaves and flowers.

Signs of strawberry damage by diseases and pests - photo gallery

The main symptom of verticillosis is the drying of the lower leaves and redness of the petioles

With fusarium, the ground part of the bush is affected simultaneously with the roots

Brown spotting gradually leads to the death of strawberry leaves

Weevil reduces yield by hitting buds

Trips weaken strawberry resistance to other diseases

How to harvest and keep the crop

Even before the berries have ripened, straw or dry grass can be placed under the bushes: this way the fruits do not get dirty during harvesting.

It is best to remove the berries in the morning after the dew has dried. Immediately before picking, prepare small containers (wooden boxes or bast baskets), where you will put the fruits in 2-3 layers. Berries should not be overripe; this reduces the quantity and quality of the crop. Stored too ripe strawberries for long.

During the collection, try to pinch off the berry along with the sepals and the stalk so that it is stored longer. Sort immediately, laying aside whole strawberries from small, crushed or spoiled ones. Collect rotten fruits in separate containers and immediately carry them away to prevent damage to other bushes.

Try to harvest strawberries in small containers made from natural materials.

If you had to collect strawberries after rain, then lay it in one layer and leave it in a cool place in a small draft or under a fan.

For storage, try to select the best berries and put them in containers with holes to avoid mold. You do not need to wash the fruits. On the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, strawberries lie perfectly up to 5-7 days.

Frozen berry is stored for up to six months. Before laying in the refrigerator compartment, sort, wash and dry the strawberries. Arrange the fruits in portioned packets and place in the freezer.

Strawberry Malvina is unusually good and fresh. But with a large crop of sweet and aromatic fruits, you can make a lot of wonderful workpieces. Traditional dishes are preserves, jams, strawberries in their own juice, jelly and stewed fruit. But if you do a little magic in the kitchen, you can surprise the family with pastille, marmalade or marshmallows from ripe berries. Enjoy your meal!

Homemade strawberry preparations are healthier and tastier than sweets from the store

Strawberry Malvina Reviews

Today we tried Malvina. The berry is large, beautiful, bright red. Commodity. Inside is a small void. Sweet, with a slight acidity, fragrant. Тут же пробовали Дарселект, аромат и вкус у него, конечно, побогаче. Однако думаю, что Мальвина займёт своё место у меня на участке.


Мальвина удивляет силой роста и выносливостью. Все, кто приходит на участок, обращают внимание на сильные крепкие кусты. На кустах весенней посадки по 6–8 рожков, августовской — 3–4 рожка.

Svetlana (Kharkov)

У меня Мальвина второй год. Очень ценный сорт, отлично зарекомендовал себя и прошлым жарким сухим летом, и этим холодным и дождливым. Ягода сладкая, сочная, ароматная, изумительная на вкус.


Мальвина. Ничем не обрабатывала, не кормила, даже в лунку ничего не дала. Земля после картофеля, затем горчица, замульчирована была толстым слоем травы. Активно начала расти только после июльских дождей, поливы из шланга, что слону дробина на моей земле и полном солнце.


Поели сегодня Мальвину — великолепный вкус и внешний вид. Ксиму ещё раз попробовала, попалась сладкая, не знаю, почему первые были кисловаты. Но всё же Мальвина мне больше понравилась.


Клубника Мальвина зарекомендовала себя как неприхотливая культура с прекрасными характеристиками. Единственное неудобство — ей требуется много свободного места. Но стоит найти небольшой кусочек земли на солнышке, чтобы насладиться вкусом быстротечного лета.


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