Strawberry Diseases and Pests: Possible Problems, Control and Prevention Measures

Strawberries or strawberries are one of the most popular berries on the garden plots of Russian gardeners. Breeders have bred many different varieties that are distinguished by excellent taste, productivity, cold tolerance, but none of them has protection against most diseases typical of the culture. They love strawberries and pests, which are able to deprive the gardener of a significant part or even the entire crop. Therefore, you need to know how to recognize the problem, deal with it and what to do for prevention.

Possible problems with growing strawberries

Diseases of strawberries and the defeat of its pests are manifested in a variety of ways. The same symptom can indicate completely different problems. The first alarming sign is a change in the appearance of plants. Sometimes this is due to certain errors in care, and the situation normalizes when they are corrected. But there may be other reasons. The most common symptoms are:

  • Grinding drying berries. Most often this is due to intense heat and a long absence of precipitation. Strawberry is a moisture-loving culture, proper watering is very important.
  • Lack of fruit. This may indicate that the variety is classified as “weedy”, fruit ovaries on such bushes are absent in principle (they do not bloom at all or form only empty flowers). Other possible causes are old or, conversely, new plants, fertilizer deficiency, freezing of bushes (especially not winter-hardy varieties). If the ovaries appear, but dry and fall off, the most likely cause is the appearance of a weevil beetle.
  • Low productivity, small berries. Most likely, this is due to the presence of pollination problems, especially if strawberries are grown in a greenhouse. Bees and bumblebees are not too active in cool damp weather.
  • Yellowing leaves. There are many reasons for this. The most common ones are planting plants in direct sunlight (they burn the leaves), too acidic substrate, moisture deficiency, lack of nutrients - magnesium (leaves become covered with small yellowish spots), nitrogen (acquire a lemon-yellow tint), iron (turn yellow between veins) . It can also be associated with the appearance of insects that feed on plant juices - aphids, spider mites, weevils.
  • Blushing leaves. Toward the end of summer and autumn, this is natural. During the growing season, such an unnatural shade can be caused by a deficiency of potassium or excessive thickening of the plantings.
  • Drying leaves. Most often, the cause is various fungal diseases (any spotting, late blight) or the appearance of pests (whitefly, strawberry leaf beetle). In extreme heat, the leaves dry out due to moisture deficiency.
  • Curling young leaves. This symptom is characteristic if the strawberry tick attacks the planting.
  • Deformed fruits. The main reason is a deficiency of boron. Also, this may be due to the fact that the plants during flowering came under spring return frosts - the receptacle suffers because of them.

Photo gallery: Symptoms characteristic of common diseases and typical strawberry pests

Most often, the flesh of strawberries dries in extreme heat

The so-called weed varieties of strawberries bloom, but do not bear fruit, forming empty flowers

Strawberry berries are most often associated with insufficiently active pollination

Yellowness of strawberry leaves is a symptom characteristic of many problems.

The redness of strawberry leaves during the growing season is often caused by potassium deficiency

Strawberry leaves often dry when various fungal diseases in their development reach the last stage

Twisting leaves - a symptom that indicates the appearance on strawberries of one of the most dangerous pests for it - strawberry mite

Unnatural form of strawberry berries for the variety is most often caused by a lack of boron in the soil

Culture-typical diseases and methods of controlling them

Most diseases affecting strawberries are caused by fungi. There are viruses that are dangerous for the plant (mosaic spotting, “witch's broom” and so on). It is impossible to cope with the latest modern means. Affected plants can only be dug up from the beds and burned, thus eliminating the source of infection.

White rot

Blurry light spots appear on the leaves and fruits. Gradually, these tissues dry out (if the street is hot) or rot (in wet, rainy weather). In especially severe cases, the fruits and leaves are covered with a thick layer of white coating, similar to cotton wool. You can’t eat such a strawberry. Most often, strawberries grown in open ground suffer from the fungus. The risk is significantly reduced when it is cultivated in a greenhouse, on vertical beds, on a black film.

White rot extremely rarely affects strawberries growing in a greenhouse, as well as on vertical beds

To combat white rot, they use Derozal, Horus, Bayleton or Switch. The number of treatments and their frequency - in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

The use of any chemicals is strictly prohibited during fruiting and for at least 15 days before it. It is also very undesirable in the flowering process.

To prevent white rot between the rows of strawberries, garlic or onions are planted. Once every 8-10 days, the bushes are sprayed with an infusion of mustard powder, ground red pepper. The soil in the garden is sprinkled with sifted wood ash. If most of the bushes in the garden were affected by a fungus this year, 2-3 weeks after harvesting, plants and soil should be sprayed with any of the recommended preparations.

Gray rot

The fruits are covered with a thick layer of gray "fluffy" plaque. If you touch them, clouds of “dust” of the same color rise into the air. The disease spreads rapidly, especially with direct contact of sick fruits with healthy ones. If nothing is done, the fungus can destroy 50–90% of the total crop. Early ripe strawberry varieties are less susceptible to gray rot, especially Ruby Pendant, Novelty, Friendship, Pocahontas. Light deficit, dense plantings, high air humidity, and excess nitrogen in the soil contribute to its development.

Strawberry gray rot spreads from diseased berries to healthy ones very quickly.

For prevention, just before flowering, strawberries are treated with infusion of onion or garlic shooters, XOM, Tiram, Figon preparations. Water it from the moment buds appear only at the root, the soil must be mulched so that the berries do not touch the ground.

To cope with the fungus, you need to regularly remove the affected berries and thin out the plantings. Watering is dramatically reduced, allowing the soil to dry well. After that, for 2-3 weeks, ordinary water is replaced with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. With each loosening, add a little wood ash, crushed into chalk powder, on the bed. It is also advisable to carry out foliar top dressing - 2 g of boric acid and 20 drops of iodine in 10 liters of water.

Video: ways to combat gray rot

Root rot (rhizoctonia)

Most often, strawberries suffer from this disease when crop rotation is not observed, as well as when planting in the garden where any Solanaceae had grown before. The roots (especially young ones) quickly blacken, become slimy to the touch. They dry out, break easily. Then, similar lesions appear on the petioles of the leaves and “horns”. The bush can be extracted from the soil almost effortlessly.

To cope with this disease is almost impossible. Quite clearly, it manifests itself only when the disease has gone too far. The best prevention is competent agricultural technology. Before planting, the roots of new bushes are recommended to be kept for 2-3 minutes in hot (40–45 ° C) water or 10–15 minutes in a solution of Fitosporin, Maxim, Previkur.

Symptoms characteristic of the development of root rot on the aerial part of the plant appear when the process has already gone far enough

If root rot has affected only a few plants, they are immediately dug up and destroyed. The soil in this place is shed with a 3% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux fluid. The bed is well loosened, while at the same time introducing Alirin-B and Trichodermin pellets into the soil. Overly plentiful watering is strictly contraindicated. It is better to replace the water with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate.

Powdery mildew

The disease is easy to recognize, but coping with the fungus is quite difficult. On the leaves, petioles, berries, stalks, a white coating appears, similar to spilled flour. Gradually, these areas grow, the plaque “thickens” and darkens, changing color to brown-brown with purple tint. Affected berries crack, leaves dry. You can’t eat such a strawberry.

The development of the disease contributes to cool damp weather, sharp fluctuations in temperature, thickening of plantings, an excess of nitrogen in the soil, improper watering (both moisture deficit and its excess). Varieties Olivia, Polka, Pandora, Ruby pendant, Sparkle, Galichanka are resistant to the pathogenic fungus.

Powdery mildew seems to be a harmless coating that is easy to wipe from the leaves, but in fact it is a dangerous disease

To prevent the development of powdery mildew, strawberries are 3-4 times powdered with colloidal sulfur during the growing season, the soil on the bed is shed with 1% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux fluid. The procedure is carried out as soon as the first leaves appear, before flowering, immediately after it and 15–20 days after the end of fruiting. During the growing season, you can use folk remedies, spraying strawberries every 10-15 days with a solution of soda ash (40 g per 10 liters of water), wood ash or household foam, green potash soap. Foliar fertilizing with boric acid, copper sulfate and zinc sulfate, which positively affect the immunity of plants, is also useful.

To cope with the disease, use any copper-containing drugs - fungicides. The most effective are Topaz, Bayleton, Kuproksat, Horus. When loosening, Euparen, Karatan are introduced into the soil.

Video: how to get rid of powdery mildew on strawberries


Almost any culture in the garden can suffer from this fungus. The development of the disease contributes to hot, dry weather. As a result, the aerial part of the plant completely dries up. First, small brownish spots appear on the leaves, then petioles, shoots ("mustaches") and "horns" turn brown. The leaves dry and curl, the bush "breaks up", the rosette as if falls into the ground. The whole process takes 4-6 weeks. There are strawberry varieties resistant to Fusarium - Bohemia, Capri, Flamenco, Christine, Sonata, Florence, Omsk early, Alice.

Folk remedies in the fight against fusariosis are absolutely useless

Folk remedies against a fungus are useless. Effective prevention of the development of fusarium is fungicides of biological origin (Agat-25K, Trichodermin, Phytosporin, PhytoDoctor). The bed and plants are sprayed with a frequency of once every 1.5–2 weeks. In a solution of the same preparations, the roots of new bushes are soaked before planting.

In cases of mass damage, Fundazol, Benorad, Horus are used to combat fusarium. If it was not possible to cope with the problem, the garden bed is thoroughly cleaned, plant debris is burnt, the soil for disinfection is shed with 2% Nitrafen solution. Re-plant strawberries in this area can be at least 5-6 years.

White spotting (ramularis)

Leaves are covered with small purple-scarlet roundish spots. Gradually they grow, in the middle they become whitish, grayish or light beige. The disease spreads to the petioles and fruits. As a result, the affected tissue dies, holes form on the leaves. They wither and wither. Brownish spots appear on the berries, spores penetrate the strawberry pulp, greatly spoiling its taste. The fungus spreads very quickly, especially with high humidity. Most often, the disease develops closer to the middle of the vegetative season.

White spotting rarely leads to plant death, but significantly reduces yield

For the prevention of soil in the garden, plants in the budding phase and about a month after harvesting are sprayed with a 1% solution of Bordeaux fluid or with Tsineb, Falcon preparations. Particular attention should be paid to the treatment of the underside of leaves. For mass lesions, Horus, Bayleton, and Strobi are used.

Brown spotting

Most often, the disease develops during fruiting. On all parts of the plant, primarily on young leaves, blurry dark brown spots appear, cast in purple. Fruits grow smaller and brown, leaves and "mustaches" dry up. The bush may lose 60–70% of the green mass. The fungus pathogen successfully hibernates in plant debris, it is carried by insects. It also spreads in direct contact with water drops.

The brown spotting pathogen most often hibernates in plant debris or in the soil, preserving viability even in severe frosts

Folk remedies in the fight against brown spotting are ineffective. For prevention, the first emerging leaves, as well as buds, are sprayed with 1% Bordeaux fluid or HOM. In the event of a mass lesion, Oksikhom, Kuprozan, Skor, Ridomil-Gold are used.


The most susceptible to the disease are plants suffering from a nutrient deficiency, as well as those on which there are even slight mechanical damage. Spores of a pathogenic fungus are carried by the wind, insects, raindrops. Strawberry Pelican, Idea, Pegan, Daver does not get anthracnose.

Leaves and fruits are covered with spots of brick color with a brown or yellowish-beige border. Gradually, they grow, merge with each other. Then the spots turn into depressed "ulcers" bordered by purple, their surface crackes, droplets of a cloudy pinkish-yellow liquid stand out. The leaves dry, the petioles become very fragile, the entire aerial part of the plant dries and dies.

Anthracnose is easily recognized by the “sunken” spots on the berries, petioles and leaves

The most effective drugs for combating anthracnosis are Acrobat-MTs, Skor, Fundazol. For prophylaxis, strawberries and soil in the garden 3-4 times per season are sprayed with Fitosporin, Topsin-M or Gamair. It is useful to add any biostimulator (Epin, Zircon, potassium humate) to the solution.


The pathogenic fungus primarily affects the roots. Symptoms on the aerial parts of the plant appear only when the process has already gone far enough. Strawberry bushes grow smaller, stop in development. Petioles turn red, berries turn brown and deformed, leaves from the lowest dry.

The best prevention of verticillosis is following the recommendations for strawberry cultivation, first of all, proper feeding. If the disease has already gone too far, the affected bushes are dug up and burned, and the fungus is shed for disinfection. In the early stages of verticillosis, you can use the drug Maxim, Fundazole, Fitosporin, Fitodoctor.

It is quite difficult to cope with verticillosis, so special attention should be paid to the prevention of this disease

There are varieties of strawberries that have genetically integrated immunity to this disease - Lambada, Figaro, Gourmand, Tsarskoye Selo, Favorit. Most of them are not affected by gray rot.

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Video: The Most Common Strawberry Disease

Common pests: how to identify and deal with them

Strawberries taste not only to people, but also to many pests. Moreover, most of them are dangerous not only on their own, but also as carriers of pathogenic fungi, viruses, and bacteria.

Raspberry and strawberry weevil

Not only strawberries and raspberries suffer from it, but also most of the plants from the Pink family. Adults (small black bugs) and larvae also harm plantings. The first eat leaf juice. Then the females lay their eggs in flower buds, gnawing at the peduncle. Hatched larvae eat them from the inside, destroying fruit ovaries. Buds turn black, fall off.

Adults and the larvae of raspberry-strawberry weevil cause harm to strawberries

For prevention, onions, garlic, marigolds, nasturtiums are planted between the rows of strawberries or along the perimeter of the bed. Crops that may be affected by the weevil are, if possible, placed away from each other. It helps to prevent the appearance of weevil and folk remedies - infusion of wormwood, tansy, hellebore, walnut shell, mustard powder, onion peel. Strawberries are sprayed about once every one and a half weeks, and in the phase of budding and flowering every 2-3 days.

In the event of a mass pest invasion regularly early in the morning, the bushes are shaken vigorously, after having spread a newspaper, oilcloth, and covering material under them. Homemade traps also give a good effect - bottles filled with sugar syrup with yeast. The inside of the neck is lubricated with vegetable oil so that the pests cannot get out. The bushes and the soil beneath them are sprayed with Novaktion, Iskra-M, Kinmiks. Processing is necessarily carried out after harvest to destroy the larvae wintering in the soil.

Strawberry mite

One of the most common and dangerous pests for culture. It is impossible to see with the naked eye. Leaves are covered with small brown dots, acquire an unnatural yellowish tint. Their surface becomes corrugated, young leaves generally do not unfold to the end. From this strawberry, most likely, will not die, but the yield will significantly (by 50-60%) decrease.

Strawberry Mite - One of the Most Common Strawberry Pests

For prophylaxis after harvesting, plants are necessarily sprayed with Karbofos. During the growing season, the soil is dusted 3-4 times with colloidal sulfur. From it, you can prepare a solution for processing bushes. Folk remedies - infusion of onion or garlic gruel, dandelion leaves. The roots of seedlings before planting for 2-3 minutes are immersed first in hot (40–45 ° C), then in cool (15–20 ° C) water.

If the pest has bred in large quantities, Fufanon, Kemifos, Novaktion, Actellik are used. Varieties of Zenga-Zengan, Torpedo, Vityaz, Zarya are resistant to defeat by strawberry mites.

Strawberry leaf beetle

Small brown bugs settle mainly on the inside of the leaves. They feed on leaf tissues, gnawing them from the inside. Females lay eggs on petioles. Hatched larvae also feed on leaf tissues. They become thin, translucent, sometimes holes appear. As a result, the bushes stop in development, fruiting ceases.

The main harm to strawberries is caused by the strawberry leaf beetle larvae

To scare away a pest from a bed, in the early spring the soil is sprinkled with tobacco dust or dry leaves ground into crumbs. But this should not be abused so that the taste of the berries does not deteriorate. Before flowering, strawberries are treated with Karbofos or Karate. Regular weeding is required. Especially carefully you need to destroy the meadowsweet and cinquefoil goose. Strawberry leaf beetle eats these plants too.

Strawberry Whitefly

Very small white moth-like butterflies cling to the inside of the leaves. Any touch of the bush is enough for them to rise into the air. The leaves are covered with a sticky coating and a layer of soot fungus. Whiteflies feed on the juice of the plant, so the tissues gradually discolor, then the leaves turn black and die.

For some reason, strawberry whitefly is especially indifferent to yellow; this feature is used in the manufacture of traps.

A good effect in the fight against whitefly is given by homemade traps made of pieces of yellow cardboard, greased with something sticky (long-drying glue, sugar syrup, jam, honey, petroleum jelly). In the event of a mass invasion, Aktaru, Rovikurt, Confidor are used. Folk remedy - any flea shampoo or spray that contains fipronide. For prevention, onions and garlic are planted between the rows of strawberries, plants are sprayed with infusion of arrows or gruel every 10-12 days.

Strawberry Nematode

Нематоды — мельчайшие нитевидные черви, питающиеся соком молодых листьев. Селятся они в их пазухах, поэтому практически незаметны. Самки откладывают яйца на корнях — они покрываются шарообразными выпуклостями размером примерно с маковое зерно. В процессе питания нематоды заражают ткани веществом, препятствующим нормальному обмену веществ. В результате листья желтеют и деформируются, прожилки на них утолщаются, число бутонов резко уменьшается, ягоды мельчают.

Земляничную нематоду практически невозможно разглядеть невооружённым глазом

Нематоды совершенно не переносят высокую температуру. Поэтому корни кустиков перед высадкой в грунт на несколько минут погружают в горячую воду. Ей же поливают грядку ранней весной. Первые молодые листья опрыскивают 1%-й бордоской жидкостью. Вредитель поражает не только клубнику, но и картофель, горох, лук. Их нужно высаживать как можно дальше друг от друга.

Личинки земляничной нематоды, вылупляющиеся из яиц, повреждают корни клубники, выедая их изнутри

Для борьбы с нематодой используют Фосфамид, Витарос, Карбатион, Гетерофос. После сбора урожая клубнику обрабатывают Скором, Фундазолом. Народное средство — настой крапивы, но эффект оно даёт далеко не всегда.


Один из наиболее «универсальных» вредителей, поражающих как садовые, как и комнатные растения. Эти мелкие насекомые разных оттенков (от зеленовато-жёлтого до чёрно-коричневого) селятся на них целыми колониями, облепляя изнанку молодых листьев, бутоны, плодовые завязи. Питается тля соком растения, поэтому поражённые участки покрываются мелкими бежевыми точками, листья деформируются и скручиваются. Одновременно появляется липкий прозрачный налёт. Стоит отметить, что чаще всего тля живёт в устойчивом симбиозе с муравьями, и с ними тоже придётся бороться.

Тля — вредитель, не брезгующий практически никакими садовыми культурами, клубника не исключение

Вредителя эффективно отпугивают любые резкие запахи. Полезно рядом с грядкой клубники высаживать любые пряные травы, а также полынь, бархатцы, фенхель, лаванду, ромашку аптечную. Многие из этих растений привлекают на участок естественных врагов тли — божьих коровок. Всю эту зелень, а также ботву томатов, картофеля, стрелки лука и чеснока, кожуру лимона, жгучий перец, табачную крошку можно использовать как сырье для приготовления настоев. Для профилактики появления тли клубнику достаточно опрыскивать раз в 8–10 дней, при обнаружении насекомых — ежедневно по 3–4 раза.

Химикаты применяются только в случае массового нашествия вредителя. Обычно вполне хватает народных средств. Можно использовать любой инсектицид общего действия — Актара, Искра-Био, Инта-Вир, Конфидор и так далее.

Видео: народные средства для борьбы с тлей


Основной вред клубнике, как и другим садовым культурам, причиняют личинки майского жука, поедающие корни растений. В результате кусты быстро гибнут.

Эффективная профилактика вредителя — ежегодное глубокое рыхление почвы весной и осенью. В междурядья высаживается белый клевер, насыщающий почву веществами, отпугивающими личинок. Ранней весной, до того как распустятся листья, субстрат на грядке можно полить разведённым водой нашатырным спиртом (2 мл на литр) либо сделать несколько глубоких канавок, засыпав в них гранулы Дециса, Карбофоса. Народное средство — настой луковой шелухи. В течение весны его 3–4 раза льют под корни каждого куста.

Личинки майского жука поедают корни растения и могут за короткое время уничтожить всю грядку клубники

Для борьбы с личинками применяют препараты Немабакт, Почин, Землин. Взрослых особей от посадок клубники отпугивают высаженная рядом с грядкой бузина, люпин, репа.

Spider mite

Вредителя легко опознать по оплетающим листья, бутоны и плодовые завязи тонким, полупрозрачным нитям, похожим на паутинки. Он питается соком растения, поражённые участки тканей постепенно желтеют и сохнут. Селится он в основном на изнанке листа, она постепенно затягивается тонкой белесой плёнкой. Устойчивы к поражению паутинным клещом сорта Первоклассница, Анастасия, Санрайз, Золушка Кубани.

Паутинный клещ — не насекомое, поэтому желаемый эффект в борьбе с ним дают только специальные препараты — акарициды

Для профилактики между кустами клубники высаживают лук, чеснок, календулу, бархатцы. Сами кусты опрыскивают настоем луковой или чесночной кашицы, отваром клубней цикламена. Но такие народные средства дают эффект не всегда. Если от клеща пострадала значительная часть кустов на грядке, лучше не терять время и сразу применять специализированные препараты — акарициды (Актофит, Акарин, Вертимек, Неорон, Аполло). Их нужно менять при каждой новой обработке — вредитель чрезвычайно быстро вырабатывает иммунитет.


Ещё один «всеядный» садовый вредитель. Слизни похожи на лишённых панциря улиток. Они питаются мякотью ягод клубники и тканями листьев, проделывая в ней отверстия или сквозные ходы. На поверхности плодов и листьев заметны их следы — полосы липкого серебристого налёта.

Скоростью передвижения и способностями к маскировке слизни не отличаются. Поэтому неплохой эффект даёт ручной сбор вредителей. Проводить его лучше всего ранним утром. В это время слизни собираются под листьями и наименее активны. Также можно использовать ловушки — капустные листья, половинки грейпфрута, наполненные пивом, сахарным сиропом, вареньем ёмкости, вкопанные в почву.

Слизни неспособны уничтожить кусты клубники, но сильно портят товарный вид ягод

Кусты для защиты от вредителя окружают «барьером» из измельчённой в порошок яичной или ореховой скорлупы, песка, сосновых или еловых иголок. Почву посыпают табачной крошкой, древесной золой, горчицей. По периметру грядки высаживают любые резко пахнущие пряные травы. Также можно попытаться привлечь на участок естественных врагов слизней — ежей, лягушек и птиц. Неплохо справляются с задачей обычные куры.

Инсектициды применяют только в случае массового нашествия слизней, что встречается достаточно редко. Наилучший эффект дают препараты Метальдегид, Гроза, Слизнеед.

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Preventative measures

Любую проблему намного легче предотвратить, чем потом бороться с последствиями. Это касается в том числе болезней и вредителей клубники. Кусты, за которыми правильно ухаживают, намного реже страдают от грибков, вирусов, бактерий, подвергаются атакам насекомых. В профилактике нет ничего сложного:

  • Keeping the beds clean. Strawberries need to be weeded regularly, in autumn - to remove all plant debris. Dry leaves are removed from the bushes during the growing season. To save time on weeding help mulching. But the mulch layer also needs to be updated from time to time, otherwise it will cause more harm than good.
  • Deep loosening of the soil. Ideally, this should be done every time after watering. Or at least in early spring and mid-autumn. This helps to destroy the eggs and larvae of pests wintering in the soil, spores of pathogenic fungi.
  • Compliance with crop rotation. At the same place, strawberries can be grown for a maximum of 3-4 years. Then the bed is cleaned, the soil is disinfected, spilling it with Bordeaux liquid or copper sulphate. Again, strawberries can be returned to it in 5-6 years, not earlier.
  • Competent selection of seedlings. It is recommended to buy it only in trustworthy nurseries or from other trusted suppliers.
  • Preplant preparation. For disinfection, the roots can be soaked in hot water, a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, any fungicide of biological origin. Copper-containing drugs destroy most pathogenic fungi.
  • Compliance with the landing pattern. If the plants are located too densely, a closed humid environment is created, ideal for the development of many diseases and pests. Also, planting density contributes to their rapid transfer from diseased to healthy bushes.
  • Timely and proper feeding. Do not get too carried away with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Their excess in the soil weakens the immunity of the plant. But potassium and phosphorus in the right doses, on the contrary, strengthen it. It is not recommended to use fresh manure as a top dressing. It is an ideal breeding ground for the larvae and eggs of most pests.
  • Proper watering. Strawberry is a rather moisture-loving plant, but waterlogged soil creates the conditions for the development of many pathogenic fungi. Therefore, it is necessary to water it only when the top layer of the soil dries out.

Compliance with agricultural practices is the best way to get a plentiful strawberry crop and protect it from disease and pest attacks.

Strawberries are grown not only in open ground, but also in the greenhouse. An enclosed environment where moist stagnant air stagnates is very suitable for the development of diseases and pests. If plantings are thickened, any problem spreads much faster than in open ground.

To avoid this, the greenhouse should be regularly ventilated. At the end of the growing season, the soil is disinfected by spilling boiling water or a saturated pink solution of potassium permanganate. All surfaces are wiped with hydrated lime diluted with water or 5% copper sulfate. When the doors are tightly closed, it is fumigated with tobacco smoke or a piece of sulfuric bomb is burned. After applying any insecticides, the greenhouse must be well ventilated. You need to choose drugs that decompose in the ground, otherwise there is a real risk of poisoning the soil for a long time.

Growing strawberries is not a big deal. Even a novice gardener can get a crop. Subject to certain rules and recommendations regarding agricultural technology, the availability of competent prevention, the risk of diseases and pests is minimized. Nevertheless, plantings should be regularly examined for suspicious symptoms. Having found them, you need to correctly identify the problem and know what to do in each case.


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