Strawberries from A to Z: features of agricultural technology in various regions of our country

Juicy, fragrant strawberries are found today in every section. Large and small - it is good both fresh and canned. Difficulties with growing a perennial culture in gardeners are rare. If you are not too lazy, you can get an excellent crop of wonderful, sweet berries, which both children and adults will be happy to enjoy.

Strawberry History

Valuable berry culture first appeared at the beginning of the 18th century in Europe, where officer Frezier brought it from the far voyages. It was a Chilean wild strawberry - a berry with small fruits, which did not produce abundant crops. Only 200 years later, when the culture was showered with Virgin strawberries from the collection of the famous gardener Antoine Duchenne, did the “same” garden strawberry that we got used to appear. Subsequently, the classic strawberry was crossed with nutmeg and forest.

The plant improved, the berry became the largest and sweetest, and one of the most famous varieties grown by English gardeners - Victoria, was obtained. This berry was the first varietal wild strawberry, which was brought to Russia under Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich.

Varieties of Strawberries

Strawberry (it’s also strawberry garden) - a grassy plant with a shortened stem, having an apical bud, is an example of triple hybridization. The traditional garden berry combined the best tastes and productivity of wild strawberries, forest strawberries and strawberries. However, these plants have some differences in appearance and taste.

Wild strawberry berries are small (weight does not exceed 5–8 g), sweet and sour, but with a terrific aroma, grow on an upright stalk with 2-3 ovaries. It matures in early June. Currently, breeders have developed a variety of wild strawberries, which are grown in garden plots:

  • oval berry with a specific taste and aroma;
  • there is red-fruited and white-fruited;
  • fructifies to frost.

Miniature wild strawberries are often found in forest glades.

Garden strawberry (nutmeg strawberry) - a dioecious plant with high peduncles and a powerful bush, not very large berries (up to 15 g), with a nutmeg aroma. The botanical feature of this variety of strawberries is that male peduncles do not bear fruit, so its yield is more scarce.

Strawberries - a type of muscat strawberry with a specific aroma

Zemklunika is a self-pollinated hybrid of garden strawberry and nutmeg strawberry, which was bred in the 1970s . On erect flower stalks, more than 20 berries develop with a purple hue and dense pulp, weighing up to 12 g. The fruits of dredges are slightly flattened at the ends, and taste and aroma are not inferior to strawberries. This crop is resistant to many diseases that affect different varieties of strawberries. Due to the dense structure, the berries are distinguished by good keeping quality and transportability.

Modern hybrid - dredger - suitable for freezing and does not boil in jam

Modern gardeners have long grown strawberry garden (large-fruited) - a perennial herbaceous plant belonging to the family Rosaceae Fragaria. This crop almost completely replaced strawberries. Out of habit, berries are called strawberries, although this does not in any way affect its amazing taste and aroma.

Self-pollinated culture is of various varieties, has its own agrotechnical features. It grows in lush bushes, on which there are both erect and creeping shoots, densely strewn with fruits. The weight of the berries can be from 10 to 100 g. Fruits in June-July, the repairing varieties yield again in August.

Agriculture Strawberry Growing

To get a good harvest, you need to get acquainted with some of the subtleties of growing strawberries, which relate to the choice of variety, soil preparation and fertilizing. The main advantage of the berry is early maturity and early ripening. When choosing a variety, it is worth considering that strawberries are a thermophilic plant and do not like drafts and shading, they require regular watering and periodic top dressing.

Yields are also affected by:

  • climate zone;
  • site characteristics;
  • soil composition.

Varieties of garden strawberries

Experts recommend choosing varieties with different fruiting periods in order to enjoy berries all summer. The average ripening period of strawberries is about 1 month. It happens early, mid-season and late. Continuously fruiting varieties that give re-harvest at the end of summer are called remontant. They are very demanding on top dressing and do not tolerate heat. These representatives of strawberries will require transplantation already in the 2nd – 3rd year, so that the yield is not reduced.

Among the huge variety of species and varieties there are berries of various shapes and sizes, yellow and white, with pineapple and nutmeg notes.

In addition to classic bush forms, ampelous have gained popularity. Modern breeders have bred decorative varieties designed exclusively for decorating flower beds, borders, flowerpots, vertical gardening - their fruits are small and do not have a special taste (Pink Panda Rosaceae, Baron Solemacher).

Table: The most common varieties of large-fruited garden strawberries

Grade nameRipening periodWeight of berries, gFeatures
Honeyend of May - June15–25Early ripe, large-fruited variety,

gives a good harvest

KimberlyJune20–25Early variety, caramel flavor

with a dense structure

Zenga ZenganaJune - early July25Profuse bearing

excellent transportability, early grade

Mice Schindlerend of June - July12-18Cherry fruit

with strawberry flavor, medium ripening

Red GauntletJune Julyup to 30Orange red large berries

give a stable crop, late ripening grade

AlbionJune-Octoberup to 40Cone-shaped, bright red berry,

the plant bears fruit until frost

SonataJune - early August15–20Bright red with brilliance, juicy berries with dessert taste,

medium early grade

SymphonyJune July15–20Red berries (both outside and inside)

with dessert taste, medium late variety

These varieties are considered universal, suitable for the middle zone and southern regions.

Early varieties of Honey, Sonata are called plants of short daylight hours. Such a variety of strawberry garden for flowering and fruiting a fairly short daylight hours - up to 12 hours. Among the varieties there are traditional and remontannye.

Late varieties are called long daylight plants, capable of bearing fruit only in June-July (Symphony, Red Gontlet). Such berry crops yield a very abundant crop, suitable for processing and freezing, but do not bear fruit again.

Early ripening strawberry varieties:

  • Viola (flesh with a sweet and sour taste, spruce bushes, unsuitable for transportation);
  • Alba (a variety of Italian breeding, bears fruit up to two and a half months, is affected by powdery mildew);
  • Marvelous (Russian variety, oblong berry with strawberry flavor);
  • Marshmallow (Danish selection, fragrant and sweet berry, frost-resistant plant, shade-tolerant);
  • Lambada (ultra-early, cone-shaped fruits, sometimes affected by gray rot).

Photo Gallery: Early Strawberry Varieties

Strawberry Variety Zephyr - frost resistant and super early

Strawberry Viola is not suitable for transportation

Strawberry Variety Lambada - Ultra Early

Alba strawberries bear fruit for up to 2.5 months

Strawberry variety Divnaya - Russian selection

Varieties of medium ripening:

  • Elsanta (erect bush, berry is demanding for watering, forms a lot of mustache);
  • Marmalade (the fruits of Italian selection, pointed at the end, ripen at the end of June);
  • Queen (strawberry aromatic and very large, drought-resistant variety);
  • Festival (medium-sized fruits, productivity - up to 1 kg from a bush, winter-hardy);
  • Alice (bushes erect, the variety is demanding on watering and the sun).

Photo gallery: medium and medium late strawberry varieties

Strawberry variety Tsaritsa - drought tolerant

Strawberry Alice is demanding on watering and the sun

Elsant's strawberry variety forms many mustaches

Strawberry variety Festival - winter-hardy, medium late

Strawberry variety Marmalade ripens in late June

Late strawberry varieties:

  • Gigantella (berries are large, the pulp is dense, fruiting moderately, does not tolerate frost);
  • Sophie (a variety of Italian selection, with delicate, fragrant, juicy pulp);
  • Malvina (very late variety, tolerates frosts, dampness well);
  • Borovitskaya (high productivity, berries of regular, stupidly conical shape).

Photo Gallery: Late Ripening Strawberry Varieties

Sophie berries - juicy, fragrant

Malvina strawberry variety tolerates frosts well

Gigintella Strawberry reaches a weight of 100 g

Strawberry variety Borovitskaya is characterized by high productivity

Honey grows on our site for more than 6 years and ripens before anyone else. The repairing variety blooms very profusely, but bears fruit in waves. The first two weeks - the berries are large, selected, hanging down in clusters. The next 2-3 weeks - the crop is smaller; at the end of June, the central shoots ripen, the youngest, the berry on them is small but sweet.

The bushes of the early ripe variety are very sprawling, require planting in one row. Otherwise, the thickening and rotting of the first berries lying at the base of the bush cannot be avoided. These fruits are the most weighty and ripen amicably on one branch.

Varietal variety of strawberries gives a very plentiful crop, but you will not wait for a mustache from it. It is necessary to have time to root and trace so that the very first young shoots are taken (rarely more than 3). As a rule, for breeding I choose a first-order mustache, located near the uterine bush. All of the following shoots are very weak and poorly rooted.

Honei's early strawberry variety ripens in early June and has a distinctive flavor

Planting strawberries

In one place, strawberries grow well and bear fruit for no more than 3-4 years, then updating strawberry beds will be required.

Optimal landing dates:

  • in central Russia - late July - early August;
  • in the southern regions - the beginning of September.

Strawberries also take root well if planted in the central regions of our country in the spring (in April), in the Urals and Siberia in May. Many repairing varieties with this cultivation are able to give a decent harvest.

Soil preparation

The crop will be fruitful:

  • on light sandy soils and loams, loose, with medium humidity;
  • on a flat, well-lit area, without drafts;
  • when planting after carrots, onions, garlic or siderates.

    Strawberry grows well after siderata

Strawberry does not tolerate:

  • clay and bog areas;
  • tomatoes or potatoes as precursors.

In the fall, mineral fertilizers — superphosphate and ammonia additives — are introduced to the site of the future planting of strawberries. 2 weeks before planting strawberry seedlings, the beds are dug up, adding black soil and humus to the soil, chicken droppings, manure per 1 bucket per 1 m2. Then the area is cleaned of weeds and leveled.

Schemes and sequence of landing

It is recommended to plant strawberries in cloudy weather or in the evening.

Garden strawberries are planted in a single row method or in 2 rows, this will require marking the site. The method of planting and the distance between the bushes depend on the variety (maintenance, predisposed to thickening) and the purpose of cultivation: for seedlings or for fruiting.

  • if the bushes are arranged in one row, then the distance between each plant leaves about 20 cm, row spacing - 50–70 cm;
  • when planting in 2 rows, the bushes are 15–20 cm apart, leaving row to row 40 cm, then between 70–80 cm wide. With this method, it is convenient to root strawberry mustaches for propagation;
  • plants can be planted with a continuous carpet or in single copies (for example, in the tree trunk circle of fruit trees).

Sometimes in the free space they plant garlic or marigolds that repel pests, as well as dill or radish.

The strawberry planting procedure is as follows:

  1. Wells with a diameter of 30 cm and a depth of not more than 15–20 cm are prepared, since it is not recommended to deepen strawberry seedlings.

    Dig holes for strawberries, observing the depth of planting

  2. Shoots are separated from the uterine bush with a lump of moist earth.

    An hour before planting, strawberry seedlings are watered so that young plants are more easily separated from the ground, and the root system is not affected

  3. If plants that have been exposed with exposed roots for some time are used as planting material, it is recommended to soak them 6 hours before planting in a heteroauxin solution (0.1 g tablet per 2.5 l of water). This will increase the survival rate of strawberries and strengthen the root system.

    Heteroauxin growth stimulator is used strictly according to the instructions

  4. Humus (1 cup) mixed with ash (50 g per 1 bush) is added to the planting hole. The beds are carefully watered before planting.
  5. Choose a healthy plant with a well-developed central bud and prune the roots to 7-10 cm, lower them into the planting fossa, straightening them down, and gently sprinkle with earth, being careful not to damage the apical bud.

    Young strawberry shoot ready for planting

  6. The soil is slightly tamped. Then the plants are mulched (with straw or sawdust) and watered - 2-3 liters of water per bush.

    After planting strawberries, the soil is a little tamped

To make the plant well taken, it is moistened every other day for a week. Berry beds must be weeded once every ten days and remove all weeds. Strawberries will delight with a rich harvest if the bushes are periodically loosened and fertilized.

Strawberry dressing

Garden strawberries will not yield a good crop, and berries will not be large and sweet unless organic and mineral fertilizers are regularly added. Despite the fact that during planting, organic fertilizers and superphosphate were laid, annual top dressing during the growing season and flowering (at least 2-3 times) is required. You will need to add biologics in the form of foliar top dressing, potash fertilizers and complex additives - under the root.

Mineral fertilizers are used for root and foliar dressing, they are applied strictly according to the instructions

There are many options for strawberry fertilizer:

  • nitroammophosk (potassium + phosphorus + nitrogen), urea;
  • organic matter in the form of chicken droppings (solution 1:20), cow manure (solution 1:10) + wood ash;
  • iodine, boric acid and manganese;
  • biological products;
  • self-cooking top dressing (infusion of herbs, baker's yeast).

    Urea is introduced under a strawberry bush to stimulate growth.

In March, with steady warm weather, strawberries are treated with urea (nitrogen fertilizer) to stimulate active growth. Urea is diluted with water in a proportion of 10 g per 1 bucket of water and treated with bushes.

In late April - early May, the following top dressing is carried out, for this, strawberries are watered with herbal infusion:

  1. The leaves and stems of nettle, dandelion and wormwood are rammed in a bucket, poured with water.
  2. Allow to ferment for 7 days.
  3. The solution is rich in volatile and microelements, make 0.5 l under the bush in dilute form - 1 liter per bucket of water, adding iodine - 10 drops per bucket of water (antiseptic).

Aisles are watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (1 g per 5 liters of water) - this allows you to fight rot and fungi.

For faster "ripening" of the herbal infusion, the grass is ground and poured with warm water

Baker's yeast (namely, the amino acids contained in them, B vitamins, folic acid, and others) contained in a barrel with grass before fermentation gives a good result. A pack of live yeast weighing 1 kg or 50 g of dry yeast is mixed in 5 l of water at room temperature. This solution is added to the herbal mass and allowed to ferment. During the summer, yeast dressing is applied 2 times:

  • once before flowering, it is possible in a diluted herbal infusion;
  • the second time - during flowering.

Biological products (Radiance-1, -2, -3) are used according to the instructions and applied 3 times:

  • a month before flowering,
  • 10 days before buds open,
  • before flowering.

    Biological products Radiance is used for root irrigation and foliar feeding of strawberries and other plants

Mineral fertilizing alternate with organic fertilizers. For example, wood ash is a natural mineral component that favorably affects the growth of garden crops, and at the same time allows you to change the acidity of the soil. To make the berries sweet and juicy, prepare the following solution:

  1. 1 glass of ash, 3 g of boric acid (in powder) and 30 drops of iodine are mixed with 10 l of water.
  2. In the bucket with the resulting solution add rotted horse or liquid cow manure (1 kg per 10 l of solution).

    Ash reduces soil acidity

Such organomineral fertilizer as a root top dressing is a cheap and practical option for stimulating strawberry flowering and prolonging fruiting (used at the beginning of berry formation).

When applying mineral or organic fertilizers, the instructions and the indicated dosage of the constituent ingredients must be followed, without neglecting the rules for the safe use of chemicals. Fertilizers must be applied on time and accompanied by abundant watering.

Strawberry pruning

The procedure is carried out for:

  • bushes renewal - remove young shoots - mustache (summer pruning). If this is not done, the bushes will grow and planting will thicken;
  • sanitation of bushes - dry and damaged leaves are removed, with spots and bacterial rot (spring pruning). Sanitary pruning avoids the spread of diseases and fungal infection, the transfer of pest larvae from diseased specimens to healthy ones;
  • preparation of strawberries for winter - cut off most of the leaves after fruiting so that the strawberries do not spend energy on vegetation until next year (autumn pruning).

Autumn pruning allows you to destroy old, dead leaves and increase frost resistance of the plant. But some gardeners consider this procedure useless, since the process of photosynthesis is reduced, plant infection is possible, and the process of cutting shoots is unsafe for the apical bud.

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Summer pruning is carried out according to certain rules:

  • the procedure is carried out in dry, calm weather;
  • shoot length is not less than 5 cm;
  • mustache does not pull out and do not break off.

Summer strawberry pruning is to remove the mustache

Young shoots - a mustache that take away nutrition and strength from the mother plant, is removed during active fruiting in June:

  1. The mustache is trimmed with a secateurs, leaving only the first ones in order, closest to the bush. These young strawberry rosettes will be great material for planting updates.
  2. After the rosettes of the mustache take root, they are carefully cut with garden scissors or secateurs - now these are independent plants.

Some varieties of repairing types of strawberries with erect stems and dense foliage are thinned during fruiting so that the berries do not rot, selectively cutting off empty shoots and some leaves.

Propagation of garden strawberries

Any novice gardener can get fresh material for expanding strawberry plantations, since there are several ways to propagate strawberries. It all depends on the capabilities and wishes of the owner of the strawberry plot.

Berries can be grown:

  • from seeds that are purchased in specialized stores or prepared independently;
  • by dividing the mother bush;
  • from the mustache.

Seed propagation

For growing from seeds, strawberries are sown in late January - early March:

  1. Planting material is spread on the surface of the soil and covered with a film, creating a mini-greenhouse.

    In a mini-greenhouse, strawberry seeds hatch quickly

  2. The greenhouse is sprayed as the soil dries and exposed (the daylight should be 12-14 hours).

    Strawberry seedlings are sprayed as the soil dries

  3. After 2 weeks, the seeds germinate, they must be treated with Humate to activate growth.

    The first shoots of strawberries appear after 2 weeks

  4. In the phase of 3-4 leaves, seedlings are dived.

    Пикировка рассады земляники садовой происходит в фазе 3–4 листочков

  5. В июне сеянцы клубники пересаживают на постоянное место.

    Пересаживают молодые кустики клубники на постоянное место в июне

Рассаду земляники садовой освобождают от плёночного укрытия постепенно, давая ей возможность закалиться. Хрупкие листья и стебли молодых растений при переувлажнении сразу подгнивают, при сухом воздухе в помещении — высыхают и отваливаются. Поэтому процесс выращивания ягод из семян — довольно сложный и требует пристального внимания и осторожности.

Bush division

При достижении кустом 3–4 лет его омолаживают посредством деления:

  1. Растение с помощью лопаты аккуратно делят на 2–3 экземпляра (рожка) со здоровой корневой системой и хорошо развитой розеткой листьев.
  2. Делёнки пересаживают на новое место.
  3. После посадки кустики обильно поливают.

Такой способ размножения подходит ремонтантным сортам, у которых практически отсутствуют усы.

Видео: размножение клубники делением куста

Размножение усами

Разводить клубнику побегами-усами проще всего, потому что это можно делать в любой период вегетации:

  • весной пересаживают прошлогодние, уже укоренившиеся дочерние розетки;
  • летом применяют посадку молодых усов с хорошей корневой системой от тех сортов, которые дали в прошлом сезоне отличный урожай, и в перспективе садовод планирует их размножить;
  • осенью отбирают крепкую, здоровую рассаду и отделяют от материнских кустов, пересаживая подращённые усы на постоянный участок до 10–15 сентября.

Происходит размножение усами следующим образом:

  1. Дочерние розетки отрезают секатором от маточного растения, обрезают лишние листья.
  2. Опускают усы с корешками в кассеты с предварительно засыпанным и политым грунтом.
  3. Землю вокруг посаженных усов приминают руками.
  4. Поливают утром и вечером в течение полутора-двух недель.
  5. Сажают выросшие сеянцы на постоянное место.

Видео: быстрый способ размножения клубники усами

Полив клубники

Землянику садовую следует поливать равномерно, стараясь не переувлажнять почву, но и не допускать пересыхания посадок, особенно во время созревания ягод. Температура воды должна быть не ниже 15–20 °C, желательно увлажнять клубничный участок отстоянной или дождевой водой. Однако орошение ягодных грядок с помощью лейки очень трудоёмко, а полить из шланга можно только в борозды, так как вода, которую вырабатывает насосная станция, является слишком холодной для этой культуры.

Поэтому лучшие способы полива клубники:

  • дождевание — в засушливое, жаркое лето;
  • капельное орошение под корень — в период обильного цветения и плодоношения.

Обычно клубничные грядки поливают вечером (в 18–20 часов) или рано утром, при этом одному растению требуется 3–5 л воды, а на квадратный метр — 20–25 л. При переувлажнении цветоносы клубники могут отвалиться, а ягоды начнут преть.

Поливать садовую землянику нужно:

  • во время цветения — умеренно, избегая переувлажнения, можно использовать капельный полив;
  • во время сбора ягод — изредка дождеванием, чаще — под корень;
  • после уборки урожая в конце августа — начале сентября любым способом.

Современные садоводы чаще применяют капельный полив.

Видео: капельный полив клубники

Мульчирование клубники

Чтобы влага задерживалась в почве, а сорняки не могли активно разрастаться на клубничной плантации, используют мульчирование — покрытие околокорневого пространства и междурядьев с помощью синтетических и органических материалов. Эта процедура позволяет не только уменьшит полив за счёт сохранения влаги, но и избавиться от частых прополок, сохранить ягоды от загрязнений и подмерзания.

Клубнику мульчируют:

  • соломой и опилками;
  • рубероидом и картоном;
  • мелкими ветками, листвой;
  • покупными укрывными материалами.

Фотогалерея: варианты мульчирования клубничных грядок

Мульча в виде соломы на грядке с клубникой не требует больших затрат

Лутрасил отлично подходит для мульчирования клубники

Использовать опилки как мульчу для клубники выгодно и удобно

Садоводы по-прежнему применяют рубероид как укрывной материал для почвы на клубничных грядках

Большое разнообразие материалов ставит садоводов перед выбором: натуральные материалы и подручные средства или покупное укрытие. Мульча из соломы, опилок будет быстро перегнивать и портиться от осадков, её необходимо обновлять каждую весну и осень. Нетканые материалы (лутрасил, спанбонд) — более прочные, но дорогие.

Выращивание клубники в теплице

Разбить клубничные грядки на своём участке можно не только в открытом грунте, но и с использованием плёночных и поликарбонатных теплиц либо разборных парников. Особенно такой вариант пригодится в холодных климатических условиях.

Высаживают растения в теплицах, применяя:

  • многоярусное расположение,
  • вертикальные посадки,
  • специальные конструкции (трубы, мешки, сетки).

Почва используется обычная огородная с примесью песка, торфа и перегноя.

В начале вегетации поддерживают температуру около 18–20 °C, в период цветения и плодоношения — 20–25 °C. Ночную температуру понижают на 3–5 °C, более низкая неблагоприятно скажется на завязях и урожае. Влажность поддерживают в пределах 70–80%.

Клубнику в промышленных масштабах выращивают в основном в защищённом грунте

Как правило, сажают клубнику нейтрального светового дня, для которой требуется не менее 12 часов интенсивного освещения, во время цветения и плодоношения увеличивают его до 16 часов с помощью подсвечивания.

Strawberries in a shelter require regular hydration, most often in greenhouses they are irrigated with drip irrigation. Other work in the greenhouse cultivation of strawberries:

  • dry leaf removal;
  • treatment from pests and diseases;
  • loosening and weeding;
  • mustache removal.

During flowering of berry culture, film and non-woven materials are partially removed, providing access to pollinating insects. If the weather does not allow this, it is necessary to put a beehive with bees inside the greenhouse or to conduct artificial pollination.

Features of growing strawberries in the regions

Depending on the climatic characteristics of the region, varieties of long daylight hours or short, early or remodeling varieties are chosen. The weather will also depend on the timing of planting, the use of shelters and mulch.

In Crimea

From September-October, young mustaches in the Crimea begin to be transplanted to a permanent place, if the weather permits, strawberries are propagated until the end of November. The watering season begins in mid-March and lasts until the end of October. They use various varieties of long and neutral daylight hours, the most famous and productive - Redgolt and Krymchanka, Pegasus, Chelsea. Climatic conditions allow prolonging fruiting to the very frosts.

In Crimea, the berries bloom and bear fruit until frost, but in late autumn they do not always have time to fully ripen.

Sandy soil and loam require regular loosening and weeding. To obtain a plentiful crop, organic (manure, infusion of herbs) and mineral fertilizers are applied. The berries are watered by sprinkling and drip.

A humid climate and weathering in winter affect gardeners' choices - many use a non-woven frameless shelter during the wintering of strawberry beds.

In the Leningrad region

Non-hot summers, frosty winters and high humidity are characteristic features of the climate of the Leningrad Region. Therefore, suitable strawberry varieties are medium early, winter hardy, with a short ripening period (Vityaz, Ostara, Vima Zanta). They are weakly susceptible to gray rot and tolerate waterlogging well.

Strawberries require moderate watering, top dressing and cultivation, as well as the treatment of bushes from pests and diseases. Watered more often with warm, settled water from a barrel.

Since strawberry garden loves heat and does not tolerate excess moisture, Leningrad gardeners practice high “warm beds” with a wooden base. To avoid freezing of the first ovaries, apply covering material or grow berries in greenhouses and greenhouses.

Video: growing strawberries in the Leningrad region

In the Krasnodar Territory

The climate of the Krasnodar Territory is characterized by hot, sunny weather and mild winters. Strawberries in this region grow both early and late, these are varieties of long and neutral daylight: Elsanta, Zenga Zengana, Festivalnaya, Kuban early, Albion - well tolerated by transportation, resistant to pests and withstand hot weather. Remontant species give abundant crops and bear fruit twice a season.

Strawberry varieties resistant to hot and sunny weather in the Krasnodar Territory give an excellent harvest

Watering options are sprinkling and drip, regular feeding, cultivation and the use of mulch are necessary. The favorable climate promotes the cultivation of strawberries not only by amateur gardeners, but also by large horticultural farms - in open ground and greenhouses.

In Siberia

Optimal varieties for growing in Siberia have an early ripening period and are not prone to thickening. As a rule, these are repairing varieties that are cultivated in greenhouses and greenhouses, as well as neutral daylight strawberries, winter-hardy and early-growing (Sakhalinskaya, Khoney, Elizaveta 2). For Siberia, early varieties that tolerate return frosts, Sudarushka, Vima Zanta, were also bred. They are grown in a greenhouse and open ground, provided that for the winter planting will be mulched with covering material.

The harsh climate suggests spring planting, this allows the plant to take root and grow. The place is chosen sunny, the beds are made high according to the classical scheme.

Success in growing strawberries is the result of proper watering and fertilizing. Mulching is often used, especially if strawberries grow in open ground. In winter, strawberry beds are also insulated with lutrasil and spruce branches.

Video: growing strawberries in Siberia

Growing strawberries in Belarus

Zoned varieties are grown in Belarus, among which are remontant, short and neutral daylight hours (Charlotte, Alba, Clery).

A stable crop will be achieved by applying regular complex fertilizers, mullein, chicken droppings. They practice spring and autumn planting, propagating strawberry bushes with a mustache and dividing the uterine plant. Often berries are planted on balconies (in flower pots, containers), form vertical beds.

Garden strawberries are cultivated in the traditional way in the open ground and with temporary shelter. The climate allows you to enjoy the berries until the frost.


Pineapple lives up to its name, it has a taste that is not strawberry, more fruity-pineapple, medium ripening. Her berries are large, flattened, sweet, tender, fleshy and very tasty, the flesh is white and pink. The bushes are tall, fruitful and very baleen. Mustache Sea. But with all the pluses, it has a very big drawback - it rots with the slightest waterlogging. Also, frogs and slugs love her taste (I think they are), the berries are simply sucked out, according to the principle: if I don’t eat, I will bite. I keep literally 10 bushes to feast on, but this year the creeping creatures have more to feast on. In the search for a definition of the name, I did not find anything suitable, apparently, varieties of similar ones are few or not common. But this variety is old, not new.


We have many varieties of large-fruited strawberries, and small-fruited ones were also grown from seeds. There is a repair. But once, in gratitude, they presented me with planting material for dredging. I really liked her and the kind of bushes, and taste, and aroma, and became my favorite. It tastes like meadow strawberries, only elongated and 2 times larger. The berry is 3-4 cm in size. The plants do not get gray rot, since the peduncles are tall and are located above the leaves during flowering. The fruiting is long (up to 1.5 months), and the berries are always clean, they do not need to be washed.


Strawberry variety FLORENCE - late strawberry. The plants are large, the leaves are dark green, the mustache is thick, it freezes a lot in winter, or rather, it “gets wet”, because the foreign berry is afraid of the increased humidity from our big snow, it can be grown with annual plantings of mustaches. The average crop, the berries are dense, the first even crunch. The taste without special signs is sweet and sour. I was not impressed with this variety.

Ledi irin

Favorite summer berry is not just a storehouse of vitamins and a wonderful dessert, it is often a decorative element of the garden. However, it will not grow and bear fruit abundantly if there is not enough moisture, heat and trace elements for active growth. To enjoy the delicious taste of berries all summer, you need to make an effort and be sure to understand the features of cultivation of a wonderful garden plant.


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