Rosehip: variety selection and growing tips
There is hardly a person who has never seen a dog rose. This plant is widely used in landscape design, it is popular among amateur gardeners. But abundantly flowering shrubs can not only decorate the garden, but also bring a crop of extremely healthy fruits. There is nothing complicated in the cultivation of rose hips; even a novice gardener can grow it.
Rosehip is a large genus of deciduous plants from the Pink family. Most of them are shrubs, creepers, grassy and tree plants are much less common. All have a common feature - the shoots are densely dotted with sharp spikes of different lengths. They are even on annual branches, but there they look more like bristles.
The rosehip is obliged by the name to the presence of many densely spaced thorns dotting the shoots
In the northern hemisphere, dogrose is ubiquitous. It is equally satisfied with both temperate and subtropical climate. It grows almost like a weed, successfully adapting itself even to adverse environmental conditions in cities. In the middle zone of Russia, cinnamon rosehip is especially common. Among the “relatives” it stands out with the highest vitamin C content in the fruits.
Rosehip is widespread in nature, it grows mainly where the soil is moist and fertile, forming whole curtains and almost impenetrable thickets
The leaves of the rosehip are saturated dark green in color (gray-gray, olive or reddish tinges are found), of complex shape (unpaired), not too large (5–8 cm in length). The wrong side is often pubescent. The edge is carved with small cloves.
The leaves of rose hips, depending on the variety, can cast a bluish or reddish
The average height of an adult plant is 1.5–2.5 m. The shoots are quite thin, almost twigs. At the same time, it is rather difficult to break them. The bark is reddish-brown, smooth, shiny, sometimes with a greenish or purple tint. The root system is powerful, developed. The rod roots go into the soil by 2.5–3 m, accessory roots reach a length of 25–40 cm.
The plant forms a very abundant basal shoots, due to which breadth quickly grows.
Rosehip is widely used in landscape design
Rosehip bloom occurs in June or early July and lasts 10–20 days. The flowers look very impressive and spread an amazing aroma. In wild varieties of wild rose, they are most often simple, five-petalled. The buds are single or collected in 2–4 pieces in inflorescences in the form of a shield or panicle. Breeders and terry varieties of wild rose have been bred. The color of the petals is very different - from snow-white to dark crimson, almost black. In nature, various shades of pink are widespread, from gentle pastel to bright crimson. The average diameter of the flower is 4–5 cm. They open daily from 4:00 to 5:00, and “fall asleep” from 19:00 to 20:00.
Blooming rose hips decorate the site and spread an amazing aroma
Rose hips ripen by the end of summer or in the first half of September. If they are not collected on time, they will remain on the plant until the first frost. These are almost spherical, sometimes elongated or oblate berries of various shades of red and orange. They are known to botanists as hypanthium, which forms during the growth of the receptacle. The average diameter is 10–15 mm. The first crop can be expected 3-4 years after planting a seedling in the ground. The term of the productive life of the bush is at least 25-30 years.
Rosehip is a non-self-pollinating plant. Its pollen is carried by bees and other insects. Therefore, if it is planted with the expectation of a future crop, and not to decorate the site, it is desirable to have several varieties.
Rose hips look no less decorative than its flowers
In wild rose - a record high content of vitamin C, which has a positive effect on immunity, the body's overall resistance to disease, reduces fatigue, improves performance (both mental and physical), stimulates tissue regeneration and blood cell renewal. Rosehip seed oil helps with wound healing and any skin diseases.
Contraindication to the use of rose hips - pathology of blood vessels (varicose veins, thrombophlebitis). After consuming a rosehip decoction, you must rinse your mouth, otherwise it can cause problems with your teeth.
Rose hips contain a large amount of vitamin C
Varieties popular among gardeners
Rosehip selection goes in two directions. Large-fruited high-yielding varieties with a high content of vitamin C and trace elements, as well as decorative hybrids with an unusual color of petals and double flowers, are being bred.
Of the varieties that are planted for harvest, the following are most popular with Russian gardeners:
- Vitamin VNIVI. Spreading bush, upright shoots. Thorns on fruiting shoots are practically absent. The berries are almost spherical, weigh an average of 3.5–4 g, and form clusters similar to grapes or red currants. They are characterized by a high content of vitamin C (4000 mg per 100 g) and carotenoids. The pulp has a pleasant sweet and sour taste. The average yield is 2.5–3 kg per adult plant. The variety is frost-resistant up to -35 ° C, respectively, suitable for cultivation in the Urals, Siberia, and the Far East. Also, it is characterized by a good immunity to diseases typical for culture. Mandatory availability of pollinating varieties;
- Large fruited VNIVI. The bush is powerful, sprawling, different growth rate. The average height is about 2 m. On young shoots, the bark is greenish, with age it changes color to grayish brown. The leaves are dark green, the surface is slightly wrinkled. Flowering begins in June, lasts until the first frost. At the same time, the fruits ripen. The flowers are large, the petals are pale pink. The fruits are slightly flattened, the skin is glossy, reddish-orange. The average weight is about 8 g, the yield is 3-4 kg from a bush. A significant drawback is the relatively low content of vitamin C in the pulp compared to other varieties. Frost resistance at -25ºС;
- Scarlet. A bush 1.5–2 m high and about the same diameter. The growth rate is not different. Spikes are quite short and rare, concentrated at the base of the shoots. Fruits of an unusual pear-shaped form are located on long stalks. The skin is shiny, bright scarlet. The taste of pulp is pleasant, sweet and sour. Harvest ripens in the last decade of August. The variety is valued for its high frost resistance and genetically integrated immunity to powdery mildew, but often suffers from black spotting;
- Globe. The height of the bush is up to 1.5 m, the shoots are quite thick, arched. The bark is greenish brown. The thorns at the base of the branches are densely located, there are practically none at the tops. The leaves are large, light green. The average weight of an almost spherical berry is 3–3.5 g, the stalk is long, and the skin is pale scarlet. Productivity is very high - 6–7 kg per bush. It does not differ much in frost resistance, therefore it is grown in a subtropical climate (southern Russia, Ukraine);
- Ray. Tall shrub, grows up to 3–3.5 m. The shoots are thin, the bark is greenish. There are practically no thorns, they are concentrated only at the base of the branches. The flowers are pastel pink, the fruits are bright scarlet. Berries have an interesting elongated shape, similar to a cone. The average weight is 4–4.5 g. The taste is not bad, with refreshing acidity. The variety is valued for its high yield, cold resistance, and the presence of immunity to powdery mildew. Also, it is most often bypassed by pests typical for culture;
- Oval. A medium-ripening variety in Russia, it is widely grown on an industrial scale. The bush is low (up to 1.5 m), compact. The shoots are thin, curved, matte bark. Spikes are not located too often, but along the entire length of the branch. The flowers are medium-sized, snow-white. The fruits reach a mass of 8–9 g. The skin is thick, the pulp is sweet, with almost no acidity. The variety is characterized by very high frost resistance and is extremely rarely affected by diseases, pests;
- Ruby. Leaves and fruits are quite large. Berries are picked in clusters of 3-5 pieces. The orange peel, as it ripens, becomes dark scarlet or crimson, the shape varies from almost spherical to elongated, oval. The flesh is sweet and sour. The fruits ripen in the first decade of August, the yield is low - 1–1.5 kg from an adult bush. The variety withstands frosts down to -30ºС, with good care it rarely suffers from diseases and pests;
- Titanium. Powerful sprawling bush, reaching 2 m in height. Flowering occurs in mid-July. Leaves are hardly visible behind the pale pink petals. The berries are picked in brushes of 3-5 pieces; they are stored in a dry form for a very long time. Frost resistance - up to -20ºС;
- Anniversary. The bush is powerful, but low (up to 1.5 m). The flowers are large, bright pink, flowering is very plentiful. The fruits are shaped like bulbs. The average weight of the berries is 4–5 g. The skin is shiny, red-orange. Sweet and sour flesh. The fruits are great for drying, jam is also made from them;
- Apple. The height of the bush does not exceed 1–1.2 m, but this does not affect productivity. It is comparable with the same indicator for tall varieties (4-5 kg). The flowers are large, the petals are dark scarlet. The fruits are painted in a bright bright red color, collected in brushes of 5-7 pieces. In shape they are slightly flattened. A pronounced sweet and sour taste is inherent in the pulp. The average weight of the berry is 10-12 g;
- Vorontsovsky-1. Interspecific hybrid, “parents” are Webb's rose and wrinkled wild rose. Height - up to 2 m. Yield is not bad, about 3 kg of berries from the bush. The fruits ripen at the end of August, are characterized by a high content of not only vitamin C, but also E (folic acid). The skin is glossy, orange-red. The shape is almost spherical. Frost resistance is low - up to -15ºС. This is a good pollinator for other varieties of rose hips;
- Russian-1. The bush is very decorative, elegant, the leaves are pale green. The content of vitamin C is about 3200 mg per 100 g. The fruits are one-dimensional, almost spherical. Productivity - 1.5–2 kg per bush. Bred specifically for growing in the Urals. It has a genetically built immunity against rust;
- Sergievsky. A variety of medium ripening. The bush is compact, 1.5-1.8 m high. It is notable for good frost resistance, and is resistant to diseases and pests. Recommended for cultivation in the Volga region. Fruits are bright red, egg-shaped, weighing 3-4 g. The flesh is sweet and sour. Vitamin C is about 2500 mg per 100 g.
Photo Gallery: Common Rose Hips
- Rosehip Vitamin VNIVI has a very high content of ascorbic acid
- Rosehip Large-fruited VNIVI fully justifies the name
- Rosehip Crimson is a fairly compact bush that does not differ in growth rate
- A significant disadvantage of the Rosehip Globus is its relatively low frost resistance
- Rosehip Beam is easy to identify due to the characteristic shape of the berries
- Rosehip Oval in Russia is widely grown on an industrial scale
- Rosehip Rubin can not be called high-yielding, but it is characterized by frost resistance and good immunity
- Flowering in wild rose hips of the Titan variety is very plentiful
- Rosehip Jubilee is great for drying
- Rosehip Apple has very large fruits
- Rosehip Vorontsovsky-one belongs to the category of interspecific hybrids
- Rosehip Russian-one - one of the latest achievements of breeders
- Rosehip Sergievsky bred specifically for cultivation in the Volga region
Decorative rose hips are widely used in landscape design both in single plantings and for the formation of hedges. Most of them are bred abroad, so they do not differ in special frost resistance. Most often these are interspecific hybrids obtained as a result of crossing rose hips, musky and wrinkled. The most common of them:
- Jundzilii. The plant is compact, almost spherical. Height and diameter - 0.5–0.8 m. The crown is very dense. Widely used to form hedges. The flowers are carmine red;
- Nana Hybrid with a height of not more than 0.5 m. Flowering is very plentiful and long. Petals are pale pink. Half-double flowers;
- Montblanc The leaves are small, as if openwork. The flowers are large, with snow-white petals;
- Robin Hood. The flowers are quite modest, pastel pink. Flowering lasts up to 3 months. Large red spherical fruits with a shiny skin ripen at the same time with them;
- PiRo-3. The height of the bush is up to 1.5 m. The flowers are very large, with crimson-pink petals. Saffron yellow stamens collected in a bunch stand out sharply against their background;
- Ballerina. Unpretentious hybrid, tolerates partial shade. The petals are pale pink, covered with brighter spots and strokes;
- Resonanz. The height of the bush is about 1 m. The flowers are very large, terry, blood-red;
- Moje Hammarberg. Due to several waves of flowering, a low shrub is covered with flowers during almost the entire vegetative season. Their petals are bright pink, the aroma is very saturated;
- Red Rugostar The bush is 0.7-0.8 m high. The flowers are semi-double, dark scarlet. Stamens of a bright lemon shade;
- Thisbe. The presence of several flowering waves is characteristic. The flowers are semi-double, the petals are very rare for a dogrose of a peach or salmon shade;
- Northern Lights. The bush is up to 0.7 m high. The flowers are semi-double, shaped like saucers. Pale yellow mother-of-pearl petals are cast with salmon, pinkish, pale yellow.
Photo Gallery: Popular Varieties of Decorative Rose Hips
- Rosehip Jundzilii - one of the most compact varieties, almost does not need crown formation
- Rose Nana - A popular dwarf hybrid
- Rosehip Montblanc looks very impressive thanks to large snow-white flowers
- Rosehip Robin Hood appreciated for its abundance and duration of flowering
- Rosehip PiRo-3 stands out with a very bright color of the petals
- Rosehip Ballerina is unpretentious, while the bush looks very elegant
- Rosehip flowers Resonanz from a distance easy to confuse with roses
- Rosehip Moje Hammarberg is strewn with flowers almost throughout the entire growing season
- Rosehip Red Rugostar is widely used in landscape design
- Thisbe rosehip stands out for its rare petal coloring
- Rosehip Northern Lights as if shimmers in different pastel shades
Rosehip is characterized by general unpretentiousness, but a necessary condition for obtaining the maximum possible yields is a sufficient amount of heat and sunlight. The sun is also needed for decorative varieties, otherwise the flowers become smaller, the color of the petals fades, the flowering becomes not so plentiful. Therefore, it is best to place the bush in an open place, ideally on a small hill.
Rosehip soil prefers nutritious, but at the same time quite light. Although the plant takes root and bears fruit on any soil except saline, boggy and alkaline, the best option for it is a loamy or sandy loam substrate. Sections where groundwater approaches the surface closer than 1.5 m are categorically unsuitable. For the same reason, lowlands are not recommended - there melt water and moist moist air stagnate for a long time.
Rosehip productivity depends on the availability of pollinator varieties. If several plants are planted simultaneously, the distance between them is at least 0.8 m (better than 1 m). To form a hedge, the interval is reduced by 1.5 times. The distance between the rows of landings is about 2 m.
Most often in regions with a temperate climate, wild rose is planted in the spring. In southern Russia or Ukraine, the procedure can be moved to the beginning or even to mid-autumn. Even in this case, enough time is left in the subtropics until the first frost. For 2.5-3 months, the seedling will have time to adapt to new living conditions.
The root system of rosehip seedlings should be developed, healthy
The recommended depth of the landing pit is about 30 cm, diameter - 15–20 cm more. It is always prepared in advance, for spring planting - in the fall, otherwise at least a few weeks before the planned procedure. The upper layer of fertile soil is mixed with 2-3 kg of humus, and simple superphosphate and potassium sulfate (20-30 g each) are also added.
The natural alternative is about 0.5 l of sifted wood ash.
Step-by-step landing process
- Before planting, the roots of the seedling are soaked in water, cut to a length of 20 cm, coated with a mixture of powder clay and manure.
- When it dries, the plant is placed in the planting pit and covered with soil. Be sure to ensure that the root neck is 3-4 cm above the soil level.
- Shrub abundantly watered (25-30 l).
- The trunk circle is mulched, creating a layer about 3 cm thick.
- The shoots are pruned to a length of 10-15 cm, the leaves are torn off.
To prevent the active formation of growth, slate sheets are placed along the walls of the planting pit.
When planting a rosehip, you can not deepen the root neck
To transplant an adult rosehip bush you need to choose a cool cloudy day. The roots can not be left in the sun, even for a short time. They quickly dry out, reducing the chances that the dogrose will successfully take root in a new place. The plant is extracted from the soil along with an earthen lump. The procedure is carried out either in the early spring, before the growth buds “wake up”, or in the autumn, after harvesting and leaf fall. Flowering bushes are not recommended to disturb.
The plant is not demanding and capricious. Care is reduced to keeping the near-stem circle clean and loosening the soil in it, watering, top dressing and regular pruning.
Rosehip is a moisture-loving plant, while it does not tolerate stagnant water at the roots categorically. Therefore, the plant is watered infrequently, but abundantly. In extreme heat, in the absence of precipitation, 30–40 liters of water are consumed every 10–12 days until the first crop is obtained, and 60–70 liters are spent on the fruiting bush. In the first year of life, young seedlings are watered more often, every 5–7 days.
After each watering, the soil in the near-stem circle is loosened to a depth of 3-5 cm. In order to retain moisture, it is mulched. Also, mulch helps save time on weeding, restraining weed growth.
If the landing pit was prepared correctly, feed the dog rose from the second season of being in the open ground. Fertilizer is applied three times.
- The first top dressing is carried out 1.5–2 weeks before flowering. The plant is watered with a solution of urea or any other nitrogen-containing fertilizer. Every 2–3 years in the near-stem circle in the spring, additionally distribute about 20 l of humus or rotted manure.
- The second time fertilizers are applied immediately after flowering. Any complex remedy for fruit and berry bushes (Agricola, Zdraven, Effekton) is suitable. 20-30 ml of fertilizer are diluted in 10 l of water, the norm for an adult plant is 12-15 l of solution.
- The last time the rosehip bushes are fed 2-3 weeks after the end of fruiting. For proper preparation for winter, plants need potassium and phosphorus. The solution is prepared by diluting in 10 l of water 20–25 g of simple superphosphate and half as much potassium nitrate. An alternative is complex phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (ABA, Autumn) or infusion of wood ash.
If the state of the plant does not suit you, during the growing season after flowering, it can be sprayed every 2-3 weeks with a solution of any biostimulant (potassium humate, Epin, Heteroauxin, Zircon). This positively affects the yield and quality of the fruit.
Any universal complex fertilizer for berry bushes is quite suitable for feeding rose hips
Rosehip is characterized by a high growth rate and active formation of basal shoots. Therefore, trimming for him is a mandatory procedure. It greatly complicates the presence of spikes. To avoid injuries, use secateurs with long handles.
The first time the plant is cut immediately after planting, leaving no more than 3 growth buds on each shoot. After another 2-3 years, the bush is thinned out, leaving 3-5 of the strongest and most developed shoots. They are shortened to a length of 15–20 cm. A properly formed plant should consist of 15–22 branches of different ages, but not older than 7 years.
Do not forget about sanitary pruning. In the spring, you need to get rid of all broken, dried up, frozen out, damaged by diseases and pests branches. Also, weak, deformed, thickening crown, shoots located too low are cut to the growth point.
It is desirable to reduce autumn sanitary pruning to the necessary minimum. Even properly cut slices do not tolerate winter cold too well.
The tops of the rosehip shoots in the hedge are regularly pinched. Thus, the height is regulated and more intensive branching is stimulated.Recent entries In April, I process roses so that no pests encroach on my beauties
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Most rosehip varieties bred in a selective way are not bad or even very good frost-resistant, therefore they do not need special shelter for the winter. Even if the bush suffers from cold weather, it is quickly restored due to basal shoots. Most often, growth buds freeze on annual shoots.
Decorative rosehip varieties suffer from colds unlike more often. For them, even -15ºС is a critically low temperature. Therefore, special training is recommended. The near-stem circle is cleaned of plant debris, a layer of mulch is created with a thickness of about 15 cm. Peat, humus, and fallen leaves are best used. As soon as enough snow falls, it is raked to the roots. If the height of the bush allows, it can be completely covered with snow.
Harvesting and storage
The rosehip crop is ripening in a few “waves." Collect it from August to the end of September or even until the beginning of October. It is important to catch up to the first frost. Affected by cold, the fruits significantly lose in benefits. When preparing for harvesting, do not forget about personal protective equipment - tight clothing, gloves. You can remove those fruits from which the sepals leave.
The rosehip crop needs to be harvested before the cold
For long-term storage, rosehips are most often dried in the oven or in a natural way. Then the berries are poured into any suitable containers, which must be kept tightly closed. Otherwise, mold and rot develops rapidly. To add taste and aroma, the fruit is sprinkled with slices of ginger, grated citrus zest. After drying, you need to wait at least a week, only then the dogrose can be used to prepare decoctions and infusions.
In the drying process, the benefits of rose hips are not lost, and the shelf life is significantly increased
Video: Rosehip and Harvesting
Culture propagation methods
Rosehip propagates both vegetatively and generatively. Amateur gardeners most often use the first option, guaranteeing the preservation of varietal characteristics of the parent plant. Growing rose hips from seeds is a rather lengthy and time-consuming procedure that does not guarantee success.
Rosehip cuttings root not too well. This is especially true for decorative hybrids bred with the participation of wrinkled rose hips. The probability of success is no more than 15–20%.
Rosehip cuttings - the upper or middle part of an annual green shoot 15–20 cm long, cut off at an angle of 45º. They are harvested in the middle of summer. Each must have a minimum of three growth buds.
Rosehip cuttings can be harvested throughout the summer, but the best time for this is July
- Before planting, the lower leaves are torn off, the base of the stem is immersed for 12–16 hours in a solution of any biostimulant.
- Rooted cuttings in a mixture of peat with a baking powder (sand, perlite, vermiculite), creating a greenhouse using a plastic bag worn on the container, a glass cap, a cut plastic bottle. They are planted in the soil obliquely.
- Next, you need to ensure a constant temperature of about 25ºС, daylight for at least 12 hours, lower heating.
- The substrate is constantly maintained in a slightly wet state, the greenhouse is ventilated daily, getting rid of condensate.
- When new leaves begin to appear on rooted cuttings, they can be transplanted into the open ground. On average, the process lasts for 4-6 weeks.
- Previously, for 2-3 weeks, the seedlings are tempered, gradually extending the time spent in the open air.
- Rosehips are removed from the tank along with a lump of earth. If autumn planting in the region is not recommended, you can wait until spring.
Use of root shoots
Most of the rosehip varieties form a basal shoot in abundance. This way to get new plants is provided by nature itself. At the same time, seedlings immediately separated from the mother plant are not recommended to be transferred to a permanent place. Their root system is weak, not too developed.
Most of the rosehip varieties and hybrids form basal shoots in abundance, therefore, as a rule, there is no shortage of planting material
"Siblings" 25-30 cm high are separated from the mother plant with a shovel. In order for the transplant procedure to succeed, about half of the leaves are cut off, the shoots are shortened, leaving 2-3 growth buds. The roots are dusted with Kornevin powder.
An alternative is to high up the chosen “seedling” in the spring and water it abundantly during the summer, about once a month adding humus or rotted compost under the roots. Hilling stimulates the development of the system of subordinate roots. In the autumn it is carefully separated from the mother plant, and the next spring it is transferred to a permanent place.
Rosehip seeds are extracted from unripe fruits of brown color, while they still have a fairly soft shell. Otherwise, their germination is possible only if a minimum of six months stratification is carried out, and seedlings will have to wait 2-3 years.
Rosehip seeds are extracted from unripe fruits - in this case they have a softer shell
Rosehip seeds are sown before winter in grooves about 2 cm deep, leaving 5–6 cm between them. They are covered with humus and sawdust on top. In the spring, this section of the garden is tightened with plastic wrap before emergence. It is removed only when the daytime temperature is established at around 20 ° C.
Seedlings in the phase of the appearance of the third leaf dive, leaving only the most powerful and developed plants. Further care for them is no different from what adult rosehip bushes require. Next spring, seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent place.
If a spring planting is planned, during the winter the seeds are kept in containers filled with a moderately moist mixture of peat crumbs and sand in a dark place at a temperature of 2-3 ° C. Previously, they must be thoroughly cleaned of the pulp, so as not to provoke the development of mold or rot.
Closer to spring, the seed shell is cracking. They are planted in a mixture of peat and sand, providing the same conditions as rooted cuttings. Plants are ready for planting in the ground in 1.5–2 years.
Diseases, pests and their control
Spiky shoots of wild rose protect the bush from many pests that can attack garden plants. Also, the culture has good immunity against pathogenic fungi. Nevertheless, the plant does not have absolute protection.
Most often, wild rose suffers from the following diseases:
- rust of leaves. On the underside of the sheet appear areas of “fleecy” yellow-orange plaque. Gradually they turn brown and condense, the affected tissue dies. For prevention, swollen leaf buds are sprayed with a 2% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux fluid. During the season, soda ash (15–20 g per 5 l of water) is treated. Having found alarming symptoms, fungicides (Topaz, Vectra, Strobi) are used twice with an interval of 12-15 days;
- black spotting. The disease spreads from the bottom up. Small, gradually growing rounded black-gray spots with a yellow border appear on the leaves and shoots. Affected parts of the plant dry and die. For prophylaxis, approximately once a month, the soil in the near-stem circle is watered with Fitosporin-M, in the autumn after harvesting, it is sprayed with a 2% solution of iron sulfate. Folk remedy - iodine solution (2 ml per 1 liter of water). For the fight using drugs Topaz, HOM, Abiga-Peak, spend 2-3 treatments with an interval of 7-10 days;
- powdery mildew. Leaves and shoots are covered with a layer of whitish or grayish plaque, similar to sprinkled flour. Gradually, it becomes denser and darker, acquiring a brown tint. For prevention, dogrose is sprayed every 10-15 days with infusion of wood ash, garlic, mustard powder, a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, diluted with water kefir. They fight the disease using Topsin-M, Vitaros, Bayleton preparations (according to the instructions);
- peronosporosis. Lime-colored spots with a shiny, as if oily surface appear on the leaves between the veins. The tissues in these places gradually dry and crumble, holes appear. For prophylaxis, soil in the near-stem circle and rosehip bushes are dusted with crushed chalk, colloidal sulfur, and wood ash every 2-3 weeks. To combat the disease, Planriz, Gamair, Alirin-B are used, carrying out treatments no more than once every 2 weeks;
- chlorosis. Leaves are covered with yellow or almost white blurry spots, limited by veins. The reason most often is iron deficiency. To eliminate it, 5 g of ascorbic acid and 2-3 g of iron sulfate are dissolved in 1 liter of cold water. The shelf life of the solution is 12-15 days. You can also use Ferrovit, Ferrilen preparations for spraying.
A folk remedy for the prevention of chlorosis is to bury several rusty nails under a bush.
Photo Gallery: Symptoms of Dangerous Hips Diseases
- To combat leaf rust, as well as other fungal diseases, copper-based preparations are used.
- Black spotting - a disease characteristic of roses, which affects the dog rose
- Powdery mildew seems like a harmless coating that is easy to erase, but this is by no means
- The development of peronosporosis contributes to cool damp weather.
- Most often, chlorosis is provoked by a deficiency of iron in the soil.
Most pests typical of the culture are also characteristic of roses, which are much more often subjected to their attacks. Therefore, in order to avoid infection, it is advisable to place these crops on the garden plot as far as possible from each other.
Pests threatening rose hips:
- spider mite. Young leaves, tops of shoots, buds, are braided with thin translucent threads resembling cobwebs, covered with small beige dots. The affected parts of the plant are deformed, dry. For prevention, dogrose is sprayed every 5–7 days with infusion of onion or garlic gruel, a decoction of cyclamen tubers. Having discovered the pest, acaricides are used (Omayt, Apollo, Neoron, Vertimek) with an interval of 5-12 days. Drugs need to be changed so that the tick does not have time to develop immunity;
- dogrose motley wing. Adult individuals lay eggs in fruit ovaries, hatched larvae eat the fruits from the inside, leaving only the skin. For prevention, dogrose is sprayed with Actellik immediately before flowering. Chlorophos and Kinmix are used for the fight;
- saw cut saw. Larvae feed on leaf tissues, leaving only streaks, eating longitudinal passages in shoots. As a result, they blacken and fade. For prevention, leafy, flower buds and fruit ovaries are sprayed with infusion of wormwood or horsetail. Having discovered the pest, Inta-Vir, Actellik, Fosbezid, Aktaru are used;
- rosette leaflet. Adult butterflies lay eggs in leaves folded in a duct along the central vein. Larvae eat buds and fruit ovaries from the inside, then pass to the leaves, leaving only streaks. For prevention, non-blooming buds are sprayed with Nitrafen, after flowering, Karbofos is used. Fight caterpillars with the help of Lepidocide, Dendrobacillin, Endobacterin;
- green rose aphids. Small lime insects stick to the inside of the leaves, shoot tops, flowers and buds, fruit ovaries. Once every 5-8 days, you need to spray the rose hip with any sharply smelling infusion. As raw materials, you can use garlic or onion arrows, peel of oranges, hot pepper, wormwood, tomato tops, tobacco crumbs. Using the same means, they fight the pest, increasing the number of treatments up to 3-4 times a day. In the absence of effect, any general-acting insecticide is used (Confidor, Mospilan, Iskra-Bio, Komandor).
Photo gallery: what pests typical for culture look like
- The spider mite is not an insect, therefore, special drugs - acaricides are used to combat it
- The main harm to the bushes is caused by rosehip larvae
- Attack of a rodent sawfly can lead to the rapid death of a rosehip bush
- Caterpillars of the rose rosette can sweep the rosehip bush in a matter of days, leaving bare branches
- Aphids - one of the most omnivorous garden pests, it will not pass by the dogrose either
Briar cross-pollination. One grade is enough. Although I’m growing three. But even the old bush, before planting new two different varieties, perfectly produced alone. And of the new ones, I have a rosehip Vitamin VNIVI and Slavutich.Luba52
In the forests of the Yaroslavl region is full of wild rose hips. You can just dig, and not buy seedlings. There are more than vitamins there. Planted in cultural conditions, it gives a decent amount of berries, plus how the hedge works. And then it multiplies well very quickly. This year I have bushes strewn with fruits, we regularly collect and dry them for winter vitamin tea.Polinka
My grandfather constantly made tea with rose hips and said that he helps with all diseases. We went with him into the forest and collected rose hips. Bringing home, dried on a wooden tray in the attic. This, of course, he did everything right, there were drafts in the attic, the fruits did not have time to mold and dried very well. It was only then that I learned about the beneficial properties of rose hips, namely about vitamin C and the fact that 100 g of dry rose hips contain 800–1200 mg of this vitamin.Maroussia
In our country, when buying it, rose hips already grew. Left. Swift regularly. Yes, in old branches the bottom is exposed, but the young people who are growing up are covering this whole thing. Overgrowth - yes, it is spreading. But still not as quick as raspberries. Therefore, dogrose is easier to drive into the framework. And besides, this “wall” also blooms. Birds love to settle in it (no cat can get in this cactus), and in the fall there’s also a dining room for them. Rosehip berries are no less decorative than flowers.Lyubashka
For breeding rose hips, as soon as the plants have bloomed, I cut green cuttings, twigs that have only been able to grow since the beginning of spring, I soak them in a solution of Heteroauxin for the night, and then plant glass penumbra under cans. Under a 0.5-liter jar, I plant 4 cuttings close to each other, of course, pre-water the ground (almost in the dirt). I cover it with a can, then I just water the soil next to it, on top of the can, and so they take root. As the banks grow to the bottom, so slowly I accustom the plants to the open air. In the fall, of course, they are small in size, and for another year I leave them to grow in this place, and then everything is fine. Only in the first winter I fall asleep with sawdust, just in case, so as not to freeze.Grandson of michurin
An ordinary rosehip is so unpretentious plant that, I think, there will be no difficulty in growing it! It is more difficult to get rid of young growth, which then begins to "creep" through the garden. Place for him, you can choose the most unnecessary on the site. But, of course, not in the shade. And tea made from rosehip berries is wonderful ...Elena Cherkashina
Growing wild rose in a personal plot is not very difficult. This plant is less capricious than its "relative" rose, deservedly called the queen of flowers. Rosehip, of course, loses to it in decorativeness, but it has one undoubted advantage - the ability to bear fruit abundantly and stably. The benefits of its fruits have long been known and scientifically proven. Recently, culture has become the object of close attention of breeders, who are developing new varieties, focusing on the external attractiveness and the size of the berries.