Repair raspberries: the best varieties and nuances of care
Having first appeared in the public domain, repair raspberries immediately became a real sensation. For some time, gardeners simply forgot about the "classic" varieties. But the experience of its cultivation quickly showed that such raspberries are inherent not only in solid virtues. And abundant harvests are possible only with competent agricultural technology, because repair varieties are much more demanding in care than ordinary ones. Therefore, you need to familiarize yourself with all the nuances in advance and be sure to select the variety reasonably, given not only the size and taste of the berries.
How did repair raspberries appear?
Inherent in some varieties of raspberries, the property of remontance means the ability to continuous long-term fruiting. Ordinary varieties yield crops literally in 2-3 weeks, and repair varieties bear fruit from the first days of August until the temperature drops below 0 ° C. If you do not carry out radical pruning, you can generally collect two crops. Perhaps this is due to the fact that the fruits are tied not only on overwintered shoots, but also on annuals. In practice, it is often noted that the first summer berries are not particularly sweet and somewhat dry, and the second crop in a temperate and more severe climate simply does not have time to ripen before frost.
In optimal conditions, repair raspberries bring two crops, but often gardeners donate first, and there are objective reasons for this
Video: one or two harvests of remont raspberries
In Russia, gardeners got acquainted with remont raspberries relatively recently, only 20-30 years ago. But in Europe and the USA, varieties with the corresponding characteristics have been known for more than two centuries. Botanists noticed that at the end of summer flowers bloomed on separate shoots. Such varieties came across in the south of Russia. The most famous breeder I.V. Michurin even created the Progress variety. When cultivated in a suitable climate, he brought a small crop on the branches of this year in the first decade of September.
Serious work on the cultivation of repairing raspberry varieties in the USSR began relatively recently, in the 70s of the twentieth century. Professor I.V. Kazakov made a very significant contribution to it. Selection was carried out mainly in the Bryansk region. The first achievement was the Indian summer grade. Currently, not only various varieties of red (ordinary) raspberries are crossed. The emphasis is on interspecific hybridization involving black raspberries, fragrant, hawthorn, wonderful, blackberry and princess.
Raspberry Babye summer - the first repair grade created in the USSR
Modern varieties are self-fertile, they are characterized by the formation of fruit ovaries along the entire length, and not only on the tops of the shoots. Many believe that the taste and aroma of large (weighing 3–6 g) berries is more saturated, but this is an exclusively subjective opinion. Productivity during the season can reach 5-6 kg per bush. However, it is necessary to provide the plants with the heat and level of illumination they need, plant them in fertile soil, regularly feed and water in accordance with the need of the bush.
Bushes of repairing raspberries are literally studded with berries, it looks very impressive
Video: the appearance of remont raspberries and its differences from ordinary varieties
The best varieties
Varieties of repair raspberries created by both domestic and foreign breeders are presented in nurseries and specialized stores in a fairly wide range. But when buying, you need to immediately consider that in the best way this culture manifests itself west of the Urals. In regions with more severe sharply continental climates, varieties of this category have few advantages over ordinary ones. Objectively, perhaps, you can name only the presentability and taste of berries, the lack of need to mess around with the formation of bushes, good frost resistance and higher immunity.
The state registry is recommended for cultivation in the Central region. The bush is not particularly powerful, slightly spreading. Branches are slightly dull. The spikes are concentrated on the lower third of the shoots.
Raspberries Apricot fairly compact bushes
The average weight of the berry is about 3 g. The pulp is tender, sweet, with a slightly perceptible sourness. The aroma is mild. The taste earned an estimate of 4.5 points (a possible maximum of five). Mass ripening of berries begins after August 15th. Get about 3 kg from the bush.
Indian summer 2
The “corrected and augmented” version of the Indian summer is the first remont raspberry bred in the USSR. “Parents” surpasses the best immunity, large-fruited and the presence of pronounced aroma. The state registry is recommended for cultivation in the Central region. The bush grows to 1.5 m, it is quite powerful, medium spread. The shoots are straight, densely dotted with sharp spikes from top to bottom. The roots do not freeze even in severe and snowy winters.
Raspberry Babye Summer 2 is valued for its high frost resistance of the root system
The average weight of the berry is 3.6 g, its length is 2–2.5 cm. The pulp is very tender and aromatic, sweet and sour, slightly tart. Its taste is not significantly affected by the weather during the summer. Even with heavy rainfall, it does not become watery. The seeds are small, almost not felt. Assessment of taste - 4 points. Harvest begins in the second decade of August. Each adult plant brings up to 3 kg of berries.
One of the most beloved among gardeners from Russia and the former Soviet republics is the repairing varieties. It is grown not only for personal consumption, but also on an industrial scale. Officially recommended for landing in the Central region. When cultivated in conditions of heat and light deficit, the volume of the crop decreases sharply, the berries become almost tasteless. The bush grows to 1.5–2 m, slightly spreading. Shoots are straight, powerful. Rigid spikes of medium length cover them from top to bottom. Not bad, unlike most repair varieties, it suffers from a moisture deficit, as well as an abundance of rainfall.
Raspberry Hercules better than most repair varieties tolerates a shortage and excess moisture
The berries are extremely large (approximately 6.8 g, individual specimens - 10-12 g each). Remove about 4.5 kg from the bush. The pulp is medium density, aromatic, with a refreshing sweet and sour taste. The latter has a score of 4 points. But the experience of gardeners indicates that it is strongly influenced by the climate and the quality of the substrate. Berries are located mainly on the upper half of the shoot, but are well covered with leaves. This protects the crop from birds.
If before the first frosts the berries of raspberries Hercules do not have time to ripen, branches with fruits are cut and put in water. They will finish at home.
It has no restrictions regarding the region of cultivation. The bush is 1.3–1.6 m high, the stump (looks more like a small tree). Shoots are straight, powerful. Thorns mainly cover the lower half of the branch, but above them there are also quite a lot. It tolerates drought quite well, but not heat. Compared to other repair varieties, it is more often attacked by diseases and pests.
Raspberry Eurasia in comparison with other repairing varieties has the worst immunity
The weight of the berry is approximately 3.6–4.6 g. The pulp is of medium density, completely without aroma, the taste is not bad, sweet and sour. Individual drupes are firmly attached. Tasting score - 3.9 points. Fruits are suitable for long-distance transportation and mechanized harvesting. Harvest, which is not typical for remont raspberries, ripens en masse. Its collection takes place from the last decade of August to the 15th of September. Remove about 2.5 kg from the bush.
It is included in the State Register for the Central Region. Frost resistance up to -22 ° С. The bush grows to 1.3–1.5 m, rather actively forms basal shoots and shoots of substitution. The plant is medium spread, shoots are a little nickel. Thin and not particularly hard spikes are located not too often, but along the entire length of the branches.
Raspberry Golden domes quite actively forms a basal shoot
In ripe raspberries, the skin is golden yellow, in overripe - apricot-orange. The average weight is 3.8 g. The pulp is very tender, sweet, with barely perceptible sourness. In comparison with other repairing varieties, it has almost half as much vitamin C. An adult plant brings 2 kg of fruit or more.
As with any yellow raspberry, Golden Domes are characterized by high levels of lycopene and beta-carotene. Still such berries are much less likely to cause allergies. They can be included in the diet even for young children and pregnant women.
As the name implies, the variety is bred in Poland. He quickly gained popularity not only in his homeland, but throughout Europe, where now it is the most common variety grown on an industrial scale. It is considered almost a standard of taste. The height of the mid-spread bush is 1.5–1.8 m.
It is characterized by high cold resistance of the plant itself. Fruiting continues even when the temperature drops to -2 ° C. But the roots for the winter necessarily need shelter. In general, this is a weak point of the bush, which is also predisposed to bacterial cancer, root rot. There are practically no thorns. It does not tolerate heat above 35 ° C and direct sunlight.
Raspberry Polka is appreciated for its presentability and excellent taste of berries, but the possibility of growing this variety in Russia is greatly limited by its frost resistance
Berries are very presentable, weighing about 4.5 g. They are collected in brushes of 6-8 pieces, are easily separated from the stem, ripening, do not fall from the bush. Drupe small, firmly bonded. The pulp is dense, but very juicy. The taste is rated to the maximum. Productivity - up to 4.5 kg per bush. In Russia, the first fruits ripen at the junction of July and August, remove them until October. Berries tolerate transportation and freezing well.
It performs best in the Central region. The bush is medium-sized, but sprawling. Its height does not exceed 1.5 m. Root shoots are formed extremely little. The branches often bend under the weight of the crop; trellis or other support will be needed. Spikes are few, located at the base of the shoots. It tolerates heat well, drought - worse. When planted in the shade, productivity decreases dramatically.
Harvest of raspberries Brilliant depends on how much sunlight and heat the bushes received
The average weight of the fruit is 4.1 g. The seeds are large. The pulp is tender, sweet, with a slightly noticeable acidity. Almost no aroma. The taste is rated at 4 points. Fruits are suitable for transportation. The average yield is 2.5–4 kg per bush.
Fruits in one of the very first of the repair varieties. The state registry has not established restrictions on the cultivation region. The bush grows to 1.2–1.5 m, standard. The thorns are soft, slightly curved, covering the branches along the entire length. It does not tolerate drought and heat well. He does not like frosts - if you do not cut the shoots for the winter, they will freeze above the snow level.
The sour taste of raspberry penguin is due to its high vitamin C content.
Berries weighing 4.2–6.5 g. Vitamin C content is almost record-breaking - 62 mg per 100 g. The pulp is of medium density, noticeably sour, odorless. The taste is rated at 3.7 points. But it improves significantly when cultivated under optimal conditions and with competent agricultural technology. Productivity - up to 3.5 kg per bush.
Bushes of raspberries Penguin is often grown not only for fruiting. They are widely used for decorative purposes - they are neat, slow-growing, compact. Dark green leaves contrast effectively with bright berries.
It is allowed to cultivation in any regions of the Russian Federation. The bush is not particularly sprawling, reaches 1.5 m in length. Branches are slightly dull. Spikes are not located too often, dot shoots along the entire length. He does not like heat and drought. Frost resistance up to -25 ° С.
Raspberry Ruby necklace does not tolerate summer heat and drought, winter frosts relatively poorly
The average weight of the berry is 4.2–5.6 g, individual specimens up to 8 g. The pulp is tender, aromatic, sweet, with pronounced sourness. Taste is estimated at 3.8 points. Productivity - 2.5 kg per bush or more.
Planting remontant raspberries and preparatory procedures
Repair raspberries are very demanding on growing conditions. Therefore, a place for it is chosen so that the bushes necessarily receive enough heat and sunlight. It should be borne in mind that some varieties do not tolerate direct sunlight - the berries are “baked”. The place must be protected from the wind - cold gusts and drafts disrupt the ripening of fruits. You can, for example, plant raspberries along a wall, fence, or create a "wings" from tall plants (corn, sunflower).
For the cultivation of remontant raspberries, an open sunny area is selected.
The acid-base balance of the soil for remont raspberries is only neutral. During the preparation of the beds, dolomite flour, egg shells crushed to a powdery state, and egg shells are added to acidic soil; peat crumbs and needles are added to alkaline soil. The substrate is necessary light and loose, but at the same time nutritious. The best option is chernozem or loamy soil, gray earth. Deficiencies as a substrate can be slightly leveled by adding clay in the form of powder to sandy soil, and sand in clay and peat soil.
Dolomite flour - a natural deoxidizer of the soil that does not have side effects when the dosage is observed
The best predecessors for remont raspberries are any siderates (leaf mustard, phacelia, vetch, lupine). Then, at least 1.5 months before planting, greens can be cut and embedded in the soil, this is a natural nitrogen-containing fertilizer. They do not fit the garden culture, where before that potatoes, tomatoes, bell peppers, garden strawberries were grown - they greatly deplete the soil. The raspberry is transferred to a new place once every 12-15 years.
Siderat plants, including mustard leaf, improve soil quality, saturate it with nitrogen
Repair raspberries love moisture, but do not tolerate stagnation of water at the roots in principle. If in the area where the construction of the bed is planned, groundwater approaches the surface closer than a meter, you will have to look for another place or build a mound with a height of half a meter or more.
The quality of the seedling is the key to a plentiful harvest in the future. Healthy plants have a developed fibrous root system with a length of 20 cm and a main shoot with a thickness of at least 5 mm. Height - 20–25 cm, no more. Overgrown specimens are worse and less likely to take root in a new place. The wood under the bark is greenish. The reason to refuse to buy is the presence on the trunk of less than two kidneys, suspicious lignified growths on the roots (this may be a bacterial cancer), flaky bark, spots on it.
Acquired seedlings of repair raspberries carefully inspect, if there is any doubt about their quality, it is better to refuse to buy
Plants can be planted both in late spring and in autumn, but the most favorable period is considered to be the last decade of September or the beginning of October. Then the first ripened fruits can be tasted next summer. In areas with a subtropical climate, the procedure can be delayed even until the last days of October.
Bushes in most varieties are quite compact, not sprawling, basal shoots are formed reluctantly. Therefore, when landing between them leave 0.7-0.8 m with a row spacing of about a meter. Accordingly, if there are more than one seedlings, digging a separate hole for each is impractical. Repairing raspberries are planted in trenches, maintaining the required interval. There are other ways - the so-called curtain, (placing seedlings in groups of 2-3 each with an interval of 0.5-0.7 m) and a triangle (bushes are placed on its tops, side length - 0.4-0.5 m).
With the simultaneous planting of several bushes of remont raspberries, it is more convenient to dig one common trench for them
You need to dig a trench 3-4 weeks before disembarkation or even in the fall, if you are planning a procedure in the spring. Its depth is 40–45 cm. For each running meter, 10–12 L of humus or rotted compost, 150–180 g of ordinary superphosphate and 100–120 g of potassium sulfate are added. Or replace the individual mineral dressings with a complex product in which phosphorus and potassium are approximately twice as much as nitrogen (150 g). And lovers of subsistence agriculture suitable sifted wood ash (3–3.5 cups).
Humus - a natural remedy to increase soil fertility
Directly planting remontant raspberries in a permanent place has no radical differences from the same event for any other shrubs. To make it easier for the seedlings to adapt to the new environment, about a day before planting, the roots are soaked in a solution of any biostimulant. Both purchased drugs (Epin, Kornevin, potassium humate) and folk remedies (honey water, aloe juice, succinic acid) are suitable. In the process, it is necessary to monitor the position of the root neck - it should not be deeply buried in the ground, unless it is sandy. When properly planted, it is located a couple of centimeters above the surface of the earth. After planting, seedlings are abundantly watered and fall asleep in the basal area of mulch. It will help retain moisture in the soil and greatly save the gardener time for weeding.
There is nothing complicated in planting seedlings of remontant raspberries in a permanent place, even a beginner gardener will cope with this task
Most varieties of remont raspberries are extremely reluctant to form basal shoots. On the one hand, this is a plus, because the bushes do not "creep" over the site. But this feature seriously complicates the reproduction procedure. Therefore, most often for this purpose use lignified cuttings.
Harvesting material in the fall. When the leaves fall, annual shoots with a thickness of at least 2-3 mm are cut into pieces 20–25 cm long. They can be immediately planted in the ground or allowed to be wintered in a basement or cellar.
In the first case, the cuttings are planted horizontally in humus or rotted compost to a depth of not more than 10 cm. Plantings are abundantly watered, tightened with breathable material (spunbond, lutrasil) and covered with peat crumb (at least 8–12 cm thick). After the first heavy snowfall, the bed is additionally covered with snow.
Soaking slices on raspberry cuttings in a solution of any biostimulator accelerates the process of root formation
The second option - “landing” raspberries in the winter in containers. The cuttings are wrapped with soft paper or cloth, put in pots or boxes of a suitable volume and covered with moist peat or sand. In early spring, they are transferred to the house, the slices are updated and put in a container of water, adding any biostimulant. Top cover with a plastic bag. Water is changed daily. The roots grow somewhere in a month, after 3-4 weeks, the plants can be planted immediately in a permanent place or in a greenhouse, greenhouse. In the latter case, they are transferred to the open ground in mid-September.
They use green cuttings for propagation of especially rare and / or valuable varieties of remont raspberries. Cutting planting material in late spring or early summer - such cuttings receive the most nutrients. They must be 2-3 sheets, the height - no more than 10-15 cm.
Reproduction of remont raspberries with cuttings allows you to fully preserve varietal characteristics
Lower sections for 16-18 hours are dipped in a solution of indolylbutyric acid or heteroauxin. Then, cuttings at an angle of 45 ° with an interval of 10-15 cm are planted in a greenhouse in a mixture of ordinary soil, peat and sand (2: 1: 1). Indoor humidity is maintained at least 80% and a temperature of at least 22 ° C. Water often, as the topsoil dries up. In the open ground transferred in the fall.Recent entries In April, I process roses so that no pests encroach on my beauties
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As practice shows, bushes of remont raspberries at the age of 4–5 years give the most root shoots. As soon as the “offspring” grow to 7–10 cm in height, they are dug up, the roots are carefully separated from the mother plant with a sharp disinfected knife and transferred to a new place. In the first two weeks after transplanting, the bushes need daily watering. To protect from direct sunlight, a canopy of any white covering material is built over them.
Most remont raspberry varieties are not prone to rooting, but there are exceptions.
You can use for reproduction and pieces of roots 10-12 cm long and 2-3 mm thick. In autumn, they are planted to a depth of 6-8 cm. Seedlings appear next spring, seedlings are transferred to a permanent place in September. Another option is to sprout them at home.
When growing new bushes of repair raspberries from pieces of roots at home, the shoots appear in about a month
Video: methods of breeding repair raspberries
Obtaining the declared volume of the crop of raspberry berries of the repair varieties declared by the breeders is realistic exclusively with competent agricultural technology. The gardener takes much more time and energy for it than for caring for ordinary varieties of culture.
Repairing raspberries are a moisture-loving culture. The garden is watered at least once a week, in the heat - every two days or even daily. Most of all the bushes need moisture during the active formation of green mass, immediately before the opening of the buds and during the ripening period of the fruits. In autumn, if it is warm and sparse in precipitation, it is necessary to carry out water-loading irrigation. It helps the roots to winter without harming themselves.
The soil must be saturated with moisture to a depth of at least 35–40 cm (approximately 20 l / m²). The best method is drip irrigation. If to create such a system there is no technical possibility, water along the longitudinal furrows in the aisles. Pouring water under the roots is undesirable - they are located close enough to the surface, so they are easily exposed, dry out. Water must be warmed up to a temperature of 22–25 ° С.
Drip irrigation is a system of rigid tubes and flexible hoses connected to a tank of water placed at an altitude of 1.5–2 m above ground level, which allows “targeted” delivery of water to the basal area of plants without eroding the soil. And if you also install a special pump with a timer, the process will generally go without the participation of a gardener. Water is supplied in the form of separate drops or thin streams. It depends on whether droppers or sprinklers are installed.
Этот метод очень подходит для влаголюбивой ремонтантной малины, ведь не у всех есть возможность проживать на садовом участке постоянно. Помимо несомненной пользы для растений, такая система позволяет экономить время, силы и воду (40–70%). Она прослужит очень долго, на эффективность её работы не влияет давление в трубах, достаточно даже самого слабого напора. Также не имеет значения и рельеф участка. Наличие уклона, уступов и так далее не помешает организации капельного полива.
Поступление воды именно к корням кустов малины способствует тому, что корневая система становится более развитой, формируется больше мочковатых корней. Это, в свою очередь, обеспечивает лучшее усвоение питательных веществ из почвы. Вода, идущая по трубам, успевает прогреться до оптимальной температуры. Слишком холодная нередко провоцирует развитие корневой гнили у малины. Капли не попадают на листья, поэтому полив можно проводить в любое время. Соответственно, после проведённых внекорневых подкормок с них не смываются питательные вещества. А при выращивании малины на открытом солнечном участке они могут сыграть роль линз, вызывающих ожоги. Эти же капли нередко способствуют развитию грибковых заболеваний. Иммунитет у большинства сортов ремонтантной малины очень неплохой, но рисковать все же не стоит.
Опыт садоводов свидетельствует, что при использовании данной системы урожайность культур, в том числе и ремонтантной малины, повышается на 20–40% по сравнению с дождеванием или обычным поливом из лейки, орошением по бороздам и междурядьям. А ограниченная площадь увлажняемого участка эффективно предотвращает рост сорняков.
Капельный полив — оптимальный для ремонтантной малины способ, позволяющий равномерно промочить субстрат
Чрезмерно усердствовать с поливом тоже не стоит. Засуху многие ремонтантные сорта переносят не слишком хорошо, но переувлажнение, вызывающее гниль корней, для них просто губительно.
Видео: система капельного полива своими руками
Вызревание большого количества крупных ягод требует питательных веществ в повышенных количествах. Если в грунт при посадке было внесено все необходимое, этого хватит на два года. Подкормки возобновляют на третью весну после переноса саженца в грядку.
Ремонтантная малина чрезвычайно хорошо отзывается на натуральные органические удобрения. Как только почва достаточно оттает, почву на грядке неглубоко рыхлят, одновременно заделывая в неё перегной или компост (5–7 л на погонный метр). Примерно через две недели рыхление повторяют, внося на этот раз любые минеральные удобрения с содержанием азота (12–15 г/м²).
В ходе сезона активной вегетации ремонтантную малину ежемесячно удобряют настоем крапивных или одуванчиковых листьев, куриного помёта, коровьего навоза. Норма расхода средства — до 5 л/м². Это зависит от возраста куста. Созревающие ягоды нуждаются в калии и фосфоре. Поэтому с середины июля в данную подкормку добавляют по столовой ложке сульфата калия и суперфосфата.
Настой крапивы перед употреблением процеживают и разводят водой в пропорции 1:8, а если сырьём был помёт, её объём увеличивают вдвое
Можно чередовать органику с комплексными удобрениями для ягодных кустарников. Тогда необходимость в такой добавке отпадает. По окончании плодоношения к корням подсыпают просеянную древесную золу.
Complex fertilizers for berry bushes contain all macro- and microelements necessary for plants
Video: tips for caring for maintenance raspberries
Regarding cropping, there are two ways. The easiest way to shorten all shoots to the state of three- or five-centimeter “stumps”, but then for the next season you will be left without an early harvest. The advantage of this method is not only in its simplicity, but also in that, together with cut shoots, pathogens laid by insect eggs. To prepare remont raspberries after such pruning for wintering, it is enough to fill in “hemp” with a layer of mulch 10–15 cm thick.
For most gardeners, in the fall after pruning, the remont raspberries look something like this
Another option is to leave 10-15 of the strongest and most developed per 1 m² of the shoots of this season, cut the remaining ones to the root. It should be remembered that not all varieties have the cold resistance necessary for a given region. While the roots most often without any problems tolerate freezing of the soil to -25-30 ° C. If possible, abandoned shoots are bent to the ground and fixed, foliage is thrown over with spruce branches or leaves, covered with agril, lutrasil, spanbond. When the snow falls, a snowdrift is built over the bed. In spring, frozen branches are cut to a living kidney, located above all.
Gardeners wishing to get a harvest of remontant raspberries in June, thin out the bush and cut the tops of the left shoots
Video: ways to trim bush remont raspberries
Common diseases and control methods
Most modern varieties of remont raspberries are distinguished by a very good resistance to diseases characteristic of the culture. They are significantly less common than conventional varieties by insects. Accordingly, for the protection of raspberries, simple preventive measures are most often enough.
Fungi do not survive treatment with copper compounds. Therefore, with anthracnose, septoria, powdery mildew, rust, purple and ulcerative spotting, all types of rot are fought with fungicides. It can be both old products that have proven their effectiveness (Bordeaux liquid, copper sulfate), and the latest biofungicides (Strobi, Abiga-Peak, Bayleton, Fitosporin-M). Bushes and soil are treated in the buds in the “green cone” stage, immediately after flowering and 12-15 days after the entire crop is harvested.
If after treatment with Bordeaux liquid the shoots for a couple of weeks acquire a bluish tint, this is normal
The situation with viral (chlorosis, curly leaves, mycoplasmosis, dwarfism) and bacterial (root cancer) diseases is somewhat more complicated. Means for their treatment have not yet been developed. Most likely, they will not kill raspberry bushes, but the yield, like the quality of the fruit, will drop sharply. The best prevention in this case is competent nursing care. Plants where most of the shoots are affected by the infection do not need to be sorry, they are uprooted and burned so that the diseases do not spread further. The soil is disinfected by spilling a thick purple solution of potassium permanganate.
Of the pests, leaf aphids, gall nematodes, strawberry raspberry weevils, raspberry flies, raspberry beetles are the most dangerous for remont raspberries. Many of them do not tolerate saturated strong aromas. Next to the garden, it is useful to plant spicy greens, flowers with a characteristic aroma (lavender, marigolds, calendula). Against flying insects, masking tape for catching flies or homemade traps - containers filled with diluted sugar syrup, honey, jam, help a lot. The soil in the garden is sprinkled with crushed chalk or ash. And the plants themselves are sprayed every 12-15 days with the infusion of onion or garlic shooters, tomato tops, citrus peels.
Marigolds in the garden are not only beautiful, but also useful, their harsh aroma repels many pests
In those rare cases when infection cannot be avoided, folk remedies are used to control pests (a solution of baking soda or soda ash, colloidal sulfur, mustard powder, vinegar or ammonia diluted with water). A few treatments are enough when the problem is discovered not too late. In attacks of many individuals, raspberry bushes are sprayed with universal insecticides (Actellik, Komandor, Mospilan, Iskra-Bio, Admiral).
Repair raspberries are recommended to be cut in the fall at ground level, next year raspberries will give shoots that will delight you with a crop.Hop-55
I also cut out my remont raspberries in the fall. Not at the beginning when the main crop is on raspberries. I have until mid-October raspberries ripen. But at the end of October, when the berries are still there, but already acidic, sour, I cut branches. Can be cut in spring. There is not much difference. A remodeling produces as much as the weather allows. Leaves in the snow with berries, if not pruned. Last year, until October 15, still collected. Then she cut it off. If they lived in the country all the time, maybe later they would cut it off.Natalia Fedorovna
I have bushes of remontant raspberries still young, so I take only the second crop from them. Late in the fall I cut to the level with the soil. From the shoot that grew the next year, I get a crop at the end of August or in September. This method avoids the appearance of diseases and pests. When it grows and hardens, I will cut a part and leave a part to get continuous fruiting. Although I read somewhere that, cutting off completely, they also manage to collect two crops. Between the rows I have 1 m, between the bushes - 0.5 m. Although there are recommendations to plant less often: 1.5 m and 0.7 m, respectively. But knowing my soil, I planted like this. So far, only bushes have been mulled in my place. In the future, when they are closed in a row, I plan to mulch all the aisles. After all, raspberries love moisture. In general, I like to grow remont raspberries more than simple. Even small bushes are covered with a crop until late autumn.Sem
Can be obtained from remont raspberries and two crops. BUT it will be necessary to keep in mind that the sum of these two harvests will be approximately equal to one autumn (with a one-year growing cycle), additional efforts will be added to preserve the left shoots in the winter and to protect them from the main pests and diseases in the first half of the summer. And the summer (first) harvest of remont raspberries to taste is still inferior to ordinary raspberries. If this does not bother, then you can try, and there life will show. My remont raspberries are grown only in a one-year cycle, for one autumn harvest (clean from beetles and diseases), mainly for harvesting for the winter.Kolosovo
I have grown several varieties of repair and ordinary raspberries. Repairing raspberries bear fruit on the shoots of the first year of growth and begin to bear fruit in mid-August and before frosts. Taste is better in the first half of the fruiting period, and towards the end the taste becomes more dessert. In any case, I have so. But ordinary raspberries bear fruit on the shoots of the second year of growth and there are different ripening periods. I cut the raspberries during frosts and leave them 3-5 cm above the ground. This is good because you also remove all pests wintering on the shoots. For the experiment, I left part of the shoots of remont raspberries, shortening them to 60 cm the next year and noticed that they began to bear fruit earlier and the fruits were sweeter.Tomato squad
I planted repair raspberries for myself and for sale. When the bushes grew, in the fall I cut them to the root. The following year, new shoots grew, which began to bear fruit in August. The neighbors who didn’t cut out all the raspberries received a crop on the branches of last year, but I only sang the crop. Therefore, I believe that autumn pruning under the root is a two-edged sword. Avoiding diseases and pests, but losing the early harvest, which is more readily taken in the market.Motrya
Last year, we bought a repair raspberry, immediately enclosed it with slate half a meter deep, and it grows there beautifully. And she’s staying with me all day in the sun, where can I find partial shade in her field, a canopy or something, to make?Kationa82
In my practice, the repair raspberry under the apple tree looks much more chic than in the open sun. I explain this by the last dry years, it was necessary to water additionally.Elena
I remember, I remember how I prepared the trench. The wife took out the whole brain with this repair raspberry. I dug a trench, manure there - well, I think that's all. But no, I drove back to the forest for rotten stumps, they were also there in the trench, more leaves fell and so on. But, honestly, there were many and large berries. And in the winter she said that I cut it all about 10 cm from the ground.Grandfather
In central Russia, in order to accelerate the start of shoot growth and obtain higher yields in early spring from the plantings of remont raspberries, you can rake snow and throw a black film or other covering material on the soil. Under such shelter and the action of sunlight, the soil thaws and warms up much faster, plant vegetation begins 1–2 weeks earlier. These weeks in the fall will result in an increase in the yield of berries up to 300-500 g per square meter. I use this method from year to year, and thanks to it, the berry on the bushes does not appear from August, but from the beginning of July.Kravsvetlana
Subject to proper care and in a suitable climate, remont raspberries, in fact, yield a larger crop than ordinary, fruiting once a season. But here a lot depends on the gardener. There are enough varieties of culture that breeders have bred so that everyone finds one that is optimal for him. Agricultural technology includes mainly watering and fertilizing, eliminating the need for a bush.