Raspberry Pride of Russia: description and characteristics of the variety, advantages and disadvantages, especially planting and care
Raspberries - the most common berry in our personal plots. Traditional varieties of forest shrubs have been grown as a crop for more than 500 years, but large-fruited raspberries are of particular interest to gardeners. The Pride of Russia variety can be called a real decoration of the garden: a bush with such large berries is not found in the wild, and bright plants can be used as an element of garden decor.
The history of growing raspberries Pride of Russia
The first cultivated raspberry varieties were small-fruited (the weight of the berry was only 1.5 g), low-yielding (1 kg from the bush) and weakly resistant to viruses. As a result of the breeding work of Russian scientists, large-fruited Siberian varieties were bred, however, they also had significant drawbacks - low productivity and powerful inflexible shoots, which were difficult to bend to the ground to shelter for the winter.
A real breakthrough in the creation of highly productive types of raspberries was made at the end of the 20th century by the scientist Viktor Valeryanovich Kichina, having received several high-yielding varieties with huge fruits at the Moscow Institute of Gardening based on large-fruited Scottish and American hybrids. In 1992, from the hybridization of the Stolichnaya cultivar with the donor Shtambovy-20, they simply bred heroic raspberries, which in 1998 was named Pride of Russia.
Raspberry Pride of Russia - a variety of domestic selection, refers to large-fruited forms of culture
Description and characteristics of the variety
The variety is not remontant, self-fertile, of medium maturity. This is the largest variety of raspberries.
The variety has many advantages:
- high productivity;
- tasty large fruits;
- high winter hardiness (not damaged even in frosts above -30 ° C);
- resistance to fungal diseases (didimelle, botritis, anthracnose);
- immunity against aphids, therefore, does not require chemical treatments;
- lack of spikes.
Among the minuses are noted:
- insufficient sugar content and weak aroma of berries;
- damage to the roots during icing;
- strong dependence on growing conditions.
Raspberry The pride of Russia forms a bush of medium height (up to 1.8 m), slightly sprawling, stable. Annual stems are thick, medium length, flexible, pubescent, no wax coating, no thorns. The leaf plate is large, dark green in color, serrated along the edge. Blooms with white fragrant flowers. Fruits annually on long two-year branching shoots.
Raspberry Pride of Russia forms a compact bush with straight shoots
The berries do not ripen at the same time; fruiting begins on July 8–10 and ends after August 5–6. Fruits are collected in 15–20 pieces on one hand, have an elongated, blunt-conical shape, with small bones. The average weight of the berry is 12 g, the maximum is 18 g. The flesh is red, soft, juicy, sweet and sour in taste, with a raspberry aroma. Productivity is high - 20 t / ha or 4–5 kg per bush.
Ripened berries are easily separated from the stem, do not crumble, which is typical for this variety. Raspberries are kept fresh for a short time, only 2-3 days in a refrigerator, therefore they are frozen and used for processing: they prepare jam, jams, and fruit drinks. Raspberries are called the elixir of health and creative longevity, because it inhibits the aging process, has a beneficial effect on the cardiovascular and nervous systems, and helps with colds and blood diseases. Moreover, not only fruits are healing, but also branches with leaves.
The variety is valued for large, weighing up to 18 g, velvety red berries with soft juicy pulp
Video: Raspberry ripens Pride of Russia
Productivity of a variety depends on soil and climatic conditions and the quality of planting material.
Under the raspberry should be allocated well-lit areas. The shrub will grow in a shaded place, but the fruiting will be much weaker, and the berries are acidic. Usually, plantings are located along the fence, hedges, outbuildings that will reliably protect the raspberry from cold northerly winds.
For a raspberry, choose a well-lit place along the fence
The culture grows well on sandy or light loamy soils with neutral acidity. The plant will also take root in clay areas, but in conditions of high humidity, the bush will grow intensively, and fruit ovaries will form weakly. Therefore, to improve the quality of clay soil, sand (1 bucket / m2) must be added. Lime acidic soil (500 g lime / m2). Raspberries should not be planted in places with a shallow groundwater table - excess moisture is harmful to the root system, the risk of developing fungal diseases increases.
Experienced farmers always observe crop rotation and do not divert raspberry plots where pepper, tomatoes, and strawberries were grown last season. Culture grows well after cucumbers, legumes, zucchini. Raspberries get along well with an apple, cherry, red currant. But grapes, sea buckthorn are undesirable neighbors.
You can plant a crop at the beginning and at the end of the season. In the spring, planting is carried out under the condition that during the week the positive temperature remained. However, all the forces of the plant during spring planting are aimed at rooting, the yield will be lower. Therefore, the most suitable period for planting is autumn, 3 weeks before frosts: seedlings have time to take root before the cold, harden during the winter, and in spring, fully grown, begin to grow intensively and form a crop. Container plants can be planted all season.
The main thing is to acquire healthy planting material. Nurseries, where all plants pass strict control, offer a large assortment of raspberry seedlings. When choosing a plant, you should carefully consider it. First of all, you need to pay attention to the root system: it must be developed, fibrous, without mold. In a healthy plant, extracted from the packaging, the earthen lump is entirely braided by roots. Branches should not be dry, stained; if you pry off the bark, then the green flesh is noticeable. Planting material, acquired before the onset of frost, is dug in the garden until spring.
The roots of raspberry seedlings should be branched, fibrous, light on the cut
15 days before planting, they dig a plot, release it from weeds, add 2 buckets of humus, 50 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium salt or 300 g of ash per 1 m2. Strongly acidic soil is brought to a neutral reaction by adding 500 g of lime per 1 m2.
Raspberries are planted in a bush method or tape. During the formation of single bushes, 60x45 holes are dug with a distance of 1 m from each other. On large areas, it is preferable to plant culture in rows. For this, trenches are prepared with a width of 50 cm, a depth of 45 cm, leaving between the rows 1.5 m, between the plants 70 cm.
In large areas, raspberries are grown in a trench way
Before planting, the roots of the seedlings should be kept for an hour in a solution of a biostimulant (Kornevin, Heteroauxin), which accelerates root formation and increases the immunity of plants.
Bush planting is performed as follows:
- At the bottom of the pit, part of the fertile land is poured in the form of a knoll.
- Lower the sapling on it, carefully spreading the roots. A plant from a container is planted along with a lump of earth.
- The roots are covered with earth, be sure to compact it so that there are no air voids. In this case, the root neck should be flush with the surface.
After planting a seedling, they tamp the ground
- The planted plant is moistened by introducing 5 l of water.
The seedling is watered, introducing 5 liters of water into the trunk circle
- Cut the shoots at a height of 45 cm.
- The soil is mulched with a 10-centimeter layer of hay and straw.
Video: preparing trenches for planting raspberries
Good fruiting of raspberries requires not so much effort: regularly water, fertilize, loosen and mulch the soil, thin out the bush.
V.V. Kichina recommended growing large-fruited raspberries on a support that supports the bush, especially heavier during fruiting, contributes to good ventilation and sun exposure. Caring for a shrub is so much easier.
When growing individual bushes, a support is installed next to the plant and stems are tied to it at a height of 50 cm and 1.3 m. When planting raspberries, trellis is constructed in a linear way. On both sides of the row, columns are installed every 3 m, the wire is pulled in 2 rows on them and the shoots are tied to it.
Growing raspberries on a trellis contributes to good ventilation and sun exposure of the bushes.
Raspberry The pride of Russia is a perennial culture bearing fruit on two-year-old shoots. At the end of the second year of life, these stems dry out. At the same time, about 10 new shoots and up to 7 root offspring, which also have a two-year cycle, grow from the rhizome of the bush. The raspberry bush lives and produces crops for 20 years or more.Recent entries In April, I process roses so that no pests encroach on my beauties
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Pruning raspberries is carried out before budding, removing biennial shoots and shortening annual
The quality and quantity of the crop depends on the correct pruning. It is carried out for the season in 3 stages.
- At the beginning of the growing season (end of March), frozen and dried stems are cut with a sharp secateurs, 7 shoots of medium thickness are left and cut at a height of 45 cm.
- In the bud bud stage, these shoots are again shortened by 15 cm. After 2 weeks, 2-3 lateral branches appear on the stems, bearing the main bush yield.
- The third pruning is carried out after leaf fall: cleanseed branches and thin shoots are removed.
Video: raspberry pruning
Watering and loosening
For normal growth and development, raspberries need to be moistened, especially in the southern regions with dry air. With a lack of moisture, the stems mature poorly, many buds do not wake up next year, yields drop markedly. Raspberries are watered every 7 days (10 liters per bush), young plantings - more often. The plant especially needs moisture during flowering and fruit formation.
Traditional methods of irrigation - by sprinkling or grooves. Spraying water from a hose or an automated system with sprinkler nozzles is recommended in the morning or after sunset. During sprinkling, both the soil and foliage are moistened. However, at the time of fruiting, this type of irrigation is not used to avoid rotting berries.
Raspberries are sprinkled in the morning or after sunset so as not to cause leaf burns.
Often use watering through grooves. Around the bushes make circular watering grooves into which water is poured. When tape landing, watering grooves are laid on both sides of the row 40 cm from the bush.
On large areas, drip irrigation is more appropriate. The drip irrigation system allows you to evenly deliver moisture and greatly facilitates the work of gardeners.
The roots of perennial raspberries need moist soil, not only during the growing season, but also in winter. Therefore, in the absence of rain, pre-winter watering is carried out (20 liters per bush).
Drop watering is especially convenient on large plantations, greatly facilitating the work of a gardener
After each irrigation, the soil is loosened to remove the soil crust, which prevents air from entering the root system. Loosening in the aisles is carried out to a depth of not more than 15 cm, so as not to damage the roots located close to the surface. Then lay a layer of mulch from straw, humus. Such a protective pillow promotes the accumulation of moisture around the bushes, and also inhibits the growth of weeds.
Raspberry gives maximum yields only on well-fertilized soil. In the first season, the berry is not fed. The next year, immediately after the snow melts under digging, nitrogen fertilizers (30 g of urea / m2) are introduced, stimulating rapid shoot formation, and for the formation of ovaries, potassium salt (60 g / m2). In mid-summer, shrubs are fertilized with nitrophos (60 g / 10 l), at the end of the season with superphosphate (50 g) and potassium salt (40 g / m2).
On well-fertilized soil, one can harvest such giant raspberries every year.
Raspberry nutrition can be provided by adding organics - mullein, bird droppings. They are diluted with water in the ratio of 1:10 and 1:20 and contribute 5 l of solution to the bush. Potassium salt can be replaced with ash (500 g / m2). In autumn, the soil under the bushes is mulched with humus or compost - an organic layer reliably warms the roots in the winter cold, and by spring, overheating, turns into a useful fertilizer.
Excessive introduction of nitrogen adversely affects the development of plants: they grow too long, small shoots above 2.5 m. In this case, it is necessary to feed raspberries with potassium salt or ash.
Farmers are also advised to carry out foliar top dressing, which not only saturate raspberries with nutrients, but also save them from pests. The crystal is diluted in water (30 g / 10 l) and the foliage is sprayed.
Foliar top dressing should be combined with fertilizing the soil
There are several ways to propagate raspberries. The seed method is quite time-consuming, while varietal characters are lost, so it is rarely used. It is easy to propagate raspberries by dividing the bush. The bush is divided into parts with root and shoots. A divider with branches shortened to 45 cm is planted on a prepared place.
When propagated by root offspring in the summer, they dig out 15-centimeter shoots along with the roots and root. However, propagation by dividing the bush and root offspring does not lead to high yields of future raspberry plantations. Gardeners with experience prefer to use the cuttings method for propagating the berry culture.
- At the beginning of summer, 10–15 cm long cuttings are cut from the shoot. Its lower part should be white; for this, a cut is made under the surface of the earth.
- The cuttings are kept in the root formation stimulator (Heteroauxin, Kornevin) for 12 hours.
- They are planted at an angle of 45 degrees in a container with a nutritious soil mixture, watered, covered with a film. The greenhouse is regularly ventilated and moistened.
- In autumn, rooted cuttings are transplanted to a permanent place.
It is easy to propagate raspberries with green cuttings
If the raspberry stems are affected by the disease, then the variety can be propagated by root cuttings. To do this, in the spring you need to carefully dig out the root and cut it into pieces so that each one contains 1-2 buds. Root cuttings are buried in loose soil to a depth of 10-15 cm and watered. By mid-September, seedlings will grow from the planting material, which can be transferred to a permanent place.
Video: Raspberry propagation by root cuttings
Raspberry The pride of Russia can withstand even severe frosts above -30 ° C, but the roots can suffer from temperature fluctuations, when frost suddenly changes to a thaw. Therefore, bushes should be insulated in autumn. After pre-winter irrigation and mulching with humus, shoots bent by an arc are attached to a wire stretched along a row, covered with agrofibre, and in winter they snow up. To avoid sprouting shoots, cover them no earlier than a week before the cold snap.
Raspberry bush should be insulated for the winter with a non-woven material
Pest and Disease Control
The variety is genetically resistant to a number of common diseases.
Table: Disease, Prevention and Treatment
|Anthracnose||Necrotic spots are visible on the foliage and stems, the fruits are wrinkled. The occurrence of the disease contribute to long rains. Disease can result in significant crop losses.||Remove fallen leaves, regulate watering.||Sprinkle with Nitrafen (300 g / 10 L) before pushing the buds.|
|Septoria||The disease is strongly manifested in wet weather. Light spots with a brown border are formed on the foliage, the leaves dry out.||Do not thicken the landing, do not flood.|
|Rust||Orange formations resembling rust appear on a leaf plate. Annual shoots are covered with ulcers.|
|Powdery mildew||An off-white coating forms on the bark, leaves and shoots. Foliage falls, yield decreases.|
Photo Gallery: Raspberry Disease
- With anthracnose, shoots and leaves appear necrotic spots
- Septoria affects stems and leaves
- The development of rust is promoted by increased humidity, in a drought, the disease does not progress
- In powdery mildew-affected plants, the foliage is covered with a white coating
Table: Pests, Prevention and Control
|Raspberry and strawberry weevil||The larvae gnaw the bud, thereby weakening the flowering. Beetles eat leaves.||Spray in the phase of the green cone Fufanon (10 g / 10 l).|
|Raspberry fly||Larvae gnaw stems, branches blacken and die.||Dig the soil in the fall.||After flowering, spray Spark (1 ml / 5 l), Actara (2 g / 10 l), again - after 7 days.|
|Raspberry beetle||The beetle feasts on foliage, buds, the larvae feed on the pulp of ripe fruits. The pest can destroy up to 50% of the crop.|
Photo Gallery: Raspberry Pests
- Weevil damages the kidneys, leading to reduced fruiting
- Stems damaged by a raspberry fly, starting from the top, fade, blacken, rot and die
- Raspberry beetle and its larvae can destroy most of the crop
Video: defeating bushes with a raspberry fly
My Pride in the second year gave so many berries that they were tortured to collect. 170 kg were collected from sixty bushes and this is one shoot in a bush. The berry is large and really sweet, you can’t drag a wife from raspberries by the ears.Vvovva
The variety is good for everyone: ashipless, large berry, comes off beautifully, lies, “does not flow”, looks beautiful. But sweet and sour, with large drupes. Conclusion: for the market - super, for home - “nayn”, the wife said - for jam, limit the place, do not breed.Varava
If there is anything to compare, then it is better to get rid of the Pride of Russia. Neither special taste nor density, the aphid loves it and the glitter beetle. Either I don’t like this Pride of Russia, or the variety is so unfortunate, but it did not impress me. Yes, the berries are very large and beautiful, but at the same time they are relatively few and they strive to become sour from gray rot. And the taste is the most ordinary. The bush itself is powerful, tall, but gives few substitute shoots, because of the raspberry fly for me this is a drawback. In general, I put up with him a couple of years and threw it away last fall.aprel
This variety is growing in me. Unripe crumbles. And the overripe does not crumble (it happens, only single berries). When it’s completely overripe, due to the fact that it hid somewhere and it wasn’t noticed, it turns into a mess. Then there is no taste. But ripe in my conditions - delicious. And very large. Some berries grow together in 2 and get a heart. In the first year of planting, I did not like the taste, even its size was not needed, since it was tasteless. And the next year (and subsequent) the taste is good. A few hours after harvest, the berry begins to deteriorate, so immediately to the processing. Stretched fruiting.The turtle
Turtle // forum.vinograd.info / showthread.php? T = 3899 & page = 7
Raspberry Pride of Russia attracts gardeners with large fragrant berries, resistance to common infections and the ability to tolerate severe frosts painlessly. The crop can be grown in areas with a cool climate and get excellent crops. Compact bushes with bright green foliage and scarlet fruits look very decorative and decorate a small summer cottage. Raspberry The pride of Russia is a market-type variety that is unparalleled, so farmers are happy to grow it for sale. That is why, when planning to replace old berry plantations, they most often opt for this large-fruited variety. But do not forget that only with good care you can count on abundant harvests.