Radish Diseases and Pests: Means of Control and Prevention

Almost all gardeners grow radishes in home gardens. It belongs to precocious crops, therefore it rarely suffers from diseases and pests, especially with proper care. But he still has no absolute protection. If the gardener does not give plantings at least minimal attention, it is likely that fungal diseases or pests will develop. Therefore, you need to know the characteristic symptoms, be able to identify the problem and know how to cope with it. At an early stage, as a rule, there are enough folk remedies, in other cases it will be necessary to use "heavy artillery" in the form of chemicals.

General measures to prevent the development of diseases and attacks of radish pests

A short ripening period is one of the benefits of radish. Many pathogenic fungi, bacteria and viruses, eggs and insect larvae simply do not have time to go through the incubation period in order to cause significant damage to the plantings. But this does not mean that, in principle, culture cannot suffer from diseases and pests.

To avoid negative consequences in the form of crop loss, it is advisable to pay regular attention to preventive measures. There is nothing complicated in them, they will take very little time. But such events, coupled with competent agricultural technology, make it almost guaranteed to protect the landing from unwanted "guests".

There is nothing complicated in growing radishes, but this crop is not immune to disease damage and pest attacks.

A careful inspection of the beds at least once every 4–5 days helps to detect the problem on time. In the early stages of infection, as a rule, in order to cope with it, enough folk remedies that are harmless to human health and the environment. Chemicals, especially those that do not belong to preparations of biological origin, are very undesirable for the treatment of radishes. The culture is early ripening, harmful substances accumulate in root crops.

Plants with good immunity get sick much less often than those in which it is weakened. Soaking seeds before planting in a solution of any biostimulant positively affects it. A similar effect is obtained both from drugs purchased in the store (Epin, potassium humate, Emistim-M), and folk remedies (aloe juice, honey, succinic acid). But the excess of nitrogen in the soil provides the opposite result, weakening the plants. This macroelement in large doses has one more negative consequence - radish begins to actively form leaves to the detriment of root crops. Strengthen immunity potassium and phosphorus. Their natural source is wood ash.

To prevent fungal diseases, seeds are planted for 15–20 minutes before planting in a solution of any fungicide of biological origin. The most common drugs are Strobi, Tiovit-Jet, Alirin-B, Bayleton.

Soaking seeds in a fungicide solution - effective prevention of fungal diseases

A necessary condition for obtaining a plentiful crop in a personal plot is a crop rotation. Radishes cannot be planted for 3-4 years where other crops from the Cruciferous family (all types of cabbage, turnip, radish, rutabaga, turnip, daikon) were grown before. In general, whenever possible, they are placed away from each other. They draw the same nutrients from the soil, suffer from similar diseases. Many weeds used by pathogens as a “transshipment base” also belong to this family. Therefore, do not forget about regular weeding.

Cabbage, like other Crucifers, is a poor predecessor and neighbor for radishes

Radish seeds are planted as little as possible. With thickened plantings, diseases spread much faster. Plants are not ventilated, which is also harmful to them. Proper watering is also important. Drops on leaves and stems should be avoided.

In the autumn, they dig a bed or at least deeply loosen it. This helps to destroy fungal spores wintering in the soil, eggs and pest larvae. All plant debris is collected and burned. It is strictly forbidden to use fresh manure as a top dressing. It is an excellent breeding ground for them, and also helps to maintain the heat necessary for frost.

Digging the beds in the fall helps to destroy the eggs and larvae of many pests that were going to winter in the soil

Culture-specific diseases

Radish does not have any specific diseases. Most often, it is affected by the most common fungal, bacterial or viral diseases that do not bypass any garden crops in general or plants from the Cruciferous family.

Belle of cabbage crops (white rust)

All Cruciferous plants suffer to one degree or another from the disease, but radishes, horseradish and turnips are affected more often than cabbage. It is most dangerous for young plants. The optimum temperature for the development of the fungus is about 15 ° C. Another risk factor is cool rainy weather or sudden changes in temperature, causing fogs and / or heavy dew.

Radish suffers from white rust more often than other cruciferous

Light green spots appear on the front of the sheet. The tissues in these places thicken, gradually turn brown and die. Pustules similar to abscesses form on the inside. The leaf around them swells. When they “break through”, a whitish, oily shiny coating becomes visible, as if flakes of peeling paint. On root crops, if they have time to ripen, there are growths that resemble those that are characteristic of keel. The radish can go into color, the stem begins to branch intensively, turning into something similar to deer horns. If nothing is done, it dries and dies.

With severe damage, fungicides of biological origin are used - Ridomil-Gold, Ditan-M, Folicur. Folk remedies are effective in the early stages of the development of the disease and for prevention. This, for example, is a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate, soda ash or baking soda, colloidal sulfur (10-15 g per 10 l). To better “stick” the solution to the treated plants, add a little liquid soap or soap shavings (3-5 ml or 10-15 g) to it. Preventive treatments are carried out every 7-10 days (or more often if it rains constantly). To combat the disease, radishes are sprayed 3-4 times with an interval of 4-5 days.

Potassium permanganate - one of the most common disinfectants

Kila

A specific disease that is very dangerous for all Cruciferous. The gardener may lose at least half of the total crop. Often, he generally disappears completely. The causative agent of the fungus is extremely rare. In those beds where the keel proved to be, potentially susceptible cultures do not plant for 8-10 years. You can reduce this period to 4–5 years by placing tomatoes, potatoes, beets or any Legumes there.

Kila - a disease that affects exclusively plants from the Cruciferous family

On the aboveground part of the plant, the keel does not appear in any way. During the incubation period (20-30 days), outgrowths of different sizes in the shape of a ball or spindle-shaped form on the roots and root crops. Gradually they turn brown and rot. The stalk turns yellow, the leaves dry and lie down, as the plant does not receive enough water and nutrients.

Factors favorable to the development of keels are too frequent and / or abundant watering, unsuitable heavy soil, in which moisture stagnates for a long time, acidity of the substrate, high temperature (from 25 ° C). But you can’t completely forget about watering - the keel causes the greatest damage during a long drought. The disease spreads through infected seeds, soil, manure, it is carried by worms that live in the soil. It affects not only the "cultured" Cruciferous, but also wild-growing ones (shepherd’s bag, colza).

Proper watering of radishes helps to slightly reduce the damage done to the keel crop.

Practice shows that radish is much less affected by keel during early planting. Etching in Cumulus solution also helps to avoid infection.

Means for the treatment of keel have not yet been developed. The main emphasis should be placed on preventive measures. 2-3 days before planting seeds, the soil is loosened, sealed with sifted wood ash, or watered with so-called milk of lime (two glasses of hydrated lime per 10 l of water). You can also process the bed with a solution of Carbation (40 g per 10 l) or Fundazole (10 g per 10 l).

Radish Mosaic

A very dangerous viral disease that can affect most garden crops. Infected specimens lag behind in growth and development, leaves are deformed and smaller. The front side of the leaf plate is covered with lettuce or yellowish-green spots located between the veins. Depending on what specific virus infected the plant, they can take the form of circles, strokes, angular spots. Gradually, these tissues blacken and die. The veins are also getting dark.

Mosaic of radish is a viral disease, there are currently no means for its treatment

With the help of modern means, it is impossible to get rid of the mosaic virus. The only way to stop its spread is to remove all affected plants from the bed and burn them as quickly as possible.

The best prevention is competent crop care and keeping the beds clean. It is especially important to strengthen the plant's immunity by timely and in the right doses, making the necessary fertilizers. Before planting, radish seeds are recommended to be etched in a solution of Rovral, Horus, Topaz. The carriers of the virus are many insects, for example, weevils, aphids, ticks. We must not forget about the fight against them.

Etching in Rovral's solution is a good prevention, but not absolutely guaranteed protection against the mosaic virus

Powdery mildew

A very common disease, not a single garden culture is safe from it. Leaves and petioles are covered with a layer of powdery whitish or pale gray plaque, resembling scattered flour. If nothing is done, it becomes denser and changes color, turning into large brown spots with black spots on the surface. The tissues affected by the fungus die off, holes form. Sheet plates are deformed. As a rule, the leaves closest to the soil become the first to become infected.

Powdery mildew on the leaves seems to be a harmless coating that is easy to erase, but in fact it is a dangerous disease

Most often, radishes are affected by powdery mildew in hot, humid weather. Another risk factor is sudden changes in temperature. The fungus is spread by the wind, with drops of water, in direct contact of infected and healthy plants. Productivity falls by 50% or more, and the quality of root crops decreases.

For the prevention of powdery mildew, as a rule, enough folk remedies. Radish is sprayed at least once a week with a solution of colloidal sulfur, infusion of wood ash, sour milk or yogurt, diluted with water, a decoction of horsetail rhizomes. If time has already been lost and the fungus has spread en masse, copper-containing preparations, fungicides, are used. The experience of gardeners indicates that the best effect in the fight against powdery mildew is given by Skor, Quadris, Rayek, Fundazim. Of the drugs of biological origin - Alirin-B, Gamair, Planriz. But some rely on old time-tested remedies - copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid.

Wood ash is not only a source of potassium and phosphorus, it helps destroy spores of pathogenic fungi

Video: how to protect plants from powdery mildew

Peronosporosis (downy mildew)

The characteristic symptoms are primarily manifested on the leaves. They become covered with small angular spots with an oily surface. Gradually, their color changes from salad to straw yellow and dark brown. If the weather is wet, the wrong side of the sheet is pulled by a continuous layer of mauve-plaque, reminiscent of felt. The whole process takes 10–13 days.

Peronosporosis develops quickly enough, so do not hesitate to take measures

To prevent the development of the disease, radishes are sprayed twice during the growing season with boric acid diluted in water (10-15 g per 10 l) or Pseudobacterin, Rizoplan. From folk remedies, infusion of onion or garlic arrows, wormwood is used. Seeds are soaked in a solution of Bud, Energen, potassium humate, Fitosporin-M. To combat the disease, they use the same drugs that are recommended for the destruction of the fungus that causes powdery mildew.

Garlic - a plant that produces volatile, killing pathogenic fungi

Gray rot

Brown spots are blurred on the roots, quickly dragging on a layer of “fluffy” gray-gray plaque with small black “specks”. The tissues underneath soften and rot, the stalk and petioles become watery, the leaves lose their tone. Contributes to the development of the disease high humidity in combination with low air temperature.

There are any fruits affected by gray rot, you can not

To prevent the development of gray rot, wood ash is periodically introduced into the soil, plants are dusted with colloidal sulfur or powdered activated carbon. They can also be sprayed with mustard powder or iodine diluted with water (50 g or 10 drops per 10 l, respectively). In water for irrigation every 7-10 days add several crystals of potassium permanganate. It is useful to surround the garden with plants that produce natural phytoncides - marigolds, marigold, nasturtiums.

Marigolds - not only a beautiful, but also a very useful plant

If gray rot is noticed on time, the plants and soil are treated with the following solution - for 10 liters of water take a glass of sifted wood ash and crushed chalk, add 10-12 ml of copper sulfate. In case of mass infection, Teldor, Horus, Switch, Gamair drugs are used. But this does not guarantee success.

Vascular bacteriosis

Most often, the disease affects adult plants, seedlings are practically not affected. The veins on the leaves turn black, then spots of the same color spread around them. The leaf plate turns yellow, as if "crumbling." Radish growth slows down, petioles are deformed.

Adult radish already suffers from vascular bacteriosis at the stage of root crop formation

Risk factors - high humidity, heat, the presence of mechanical damage. The disease is carried by insects, raindrops. The bacterium inhabits plant debris, unspoiled manure, and is stored in seeds from infected plants, maintaining viability for 2–3 seasons. For disinfection, planting material immediately before planting is immersed in hot (45-50 ° C) water for 15–20 minutes.

To prevent infection, 10-12 days after emergence of seedlings, radish seedlings are sprayed with Planriz or Trichodermin. In the early stages of infection, the radish can be saved by treating it with Binoram or Fitolavin. If the disease has gone far in its development, the plants can no longer be helped.

Phytolavin is a popular drug that boosts plant immunity.

"Blackleg"

A fungal disease that affects mainly young shoots. Adult, stronger plants have sufficient resistance. The base of the stem blackens and thins, seedlings lie on the ground under its own weight. Leaves turn yellow, the plant dries. The disease develops quite quickly, as a rule, affected plants can no longer help. But it’s quite realistic to prevent the appearance of a “black leg”.

The "black leg" may deprive the gardener of a radish crop already at the stage of emergence of seedlings

The most important preventive measure is proper watering. The fungus also loves fresh air (when growing radishes in a greenhouse, it needs to be regularly ventilated), heat and acidified substrate. Seeds are sown on time, not earlier. Low temperature and light deficiency negatively affect the immunity of plants.

Seeds must undergo preplant planting. They are soaked in an infusion of garlic gruel, a dark raspberry potassium permanganate solution. Soil on the bed 3-4 days before radish planting is spilled with a solution of colloidal sulfur or hot water, and immediately after the procedure it is sprinkled with a thin layer of fine sand. Pounded charcoal or chalk is poured to the stems of the appeared seedlings, the plants themselves are dusted with sifted wood ash. Water for irrigation is periodically replaced with a solution of Fitosporin-M or Bactofit, reducing its concentration by half compared with the recommended manufacturer. Folk remedies - infusion of onion husks or green marigolds.

Infusion of onion husks - an effective means of prevention of the "black leg"

Finding that several plants have become infected, they drastically reduce watering to the required minimum, allowing the soil to dry well. The soil is loosened, introducing in the process granules of Trichodermin, Gliocladin, Barrier.

Video: methods of dealing with the "black leg"

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Common Radish Pests

There are a lot of pests that can cause significant damage to the radish. This insects, affecting exclusively Cruciferous, and "omnivorous", attacking most other garden crops.

Cruciferous flea

Small (up to 0.3 cm in diameter) black bugs, casting in the sun golden, turn radish leaves into a sieve in a very short time. They have a very good jumping ability, due to which they travel considerable distances relatively quickly. In winter, the pest waits in the upper layers of the soil, under the foliage. The females of the cruciferous flea lay eggs on the leaves, the larvae hatching from them eat the roots of the plants. Insects do not like heat and high humidity, in such weather their activity decreases sharply.

In the heat, especially if it rains frequently, the activity of the cruciferous flea decreases sharply

In order to scare away the cruciferous flea from the beds, the soil where radish sprouts appeared is sprinkled with a mixture of sifted ash with crushed dried tobacco leaves, ground pepper, mustard powder. You can simply prevent the pest from entering the garden if you tighten it with any white air-tight covering material. During the growing season, radishes are treated every 5–7 days with infusion of dandelion leaves, tomato leaves or potatoes, vinegar diluted in water (25–30 ml of essence per 10 l). Along the perimeter of the beds are surrounded by a naphthalene barrier.

Cruciferous flea does not tolerate the smell of vinegar

In the event of a mass invasion, chemicals are used. Decis, Sherpa, Aktara, Lightning show themselves in the best way. An alternative is a flea-proof shampoo for pets (40-50 ml per 10 l). You can also catch bugs manually by constructing something like a flag. A piece of cloth is attached in a stick, greased with something sticky and passed along the top of the radish.

Butterfly Caterpillars

Females lay eggs on leaves, the first generation of larvae hatch in late June, the second in September. Striped greenish-yellow caterpillars are able to eat around the plant in a few days, leaving only petioles from the leaves of the radish.

It is unlikely that there will be a gardener who has never seen a butterfly, a white duck, also known as a cabbage

When the first butterflies appear in the garden, to prevent them from laying eggs, the soil and the plants themselves are sprayed with infusions of any herbs with a sharp characteristic smell (wormwood, tomato tops, rosemary, basil, sage). Of the chemicals for the same purpose, Entobacterin, Bitoxibacillin, Lepidocide are used. You can still tighten the bed with a fine mesh, add a few drops of lavender essential oil or any citruses to the water for irrigation. Traps are hung next to it - cut plastic bottles filled with sugar syrup, honey or jam diluted with water. A similar effect is given by a sticky tape for catching flies.

Larvae caterpillars are able to eat a plant in a matter of days

Experienced gardeners advise “deceiving” butterflies by scattering pieces of eggshell in the garden. Their insects are mistaken for "relatives" and fly on, being sure that "the place is already taken."

Caterpillars are destroyed with the help of Kinmix, Sumi Alpha, Actellik. You can make them leave the garden by dusting the soil with wood ash mixed with any spice or spice - mustard, cinnamon, saffron, ginger.

Spring cabbage fly

It can cause radish plantings very serious harm. The peak of its activity occurs in the second half of May and early June (you can focus on the beginning of flowering of lilac and bird cherry). Just at that time, gardeners are actively planting culture. Females lay eggs in the upper layers of the soil, the larvae penetrate the roots and eat them from the inside, severely damaging the emerging root crops, then pass into the petioles. The plant fades, leaves acquire an unnatural bluish tint.

Adult cabbage flies do not harm plants, but this does not mean that they do not need to be fought

To scare away the cabbage fly, the bed is sprinkled with a mixture of tobacco dust with camphor and powdered dry bay leaf 3–5 days after emergence. Along the perimeter and in the aisles, it is recommended to plant marigolds, parsley, celery, coriander. As mulch, materials with a rather rough texture are used - wood shavings, sawdust. All measures are also applicable to scare away the butterflies of the whale.

Cabbage fly larvae invade through plant roots

In the event of a massive invasion of caterpillars, chemicals are used. Karate, Antio, Iskra-Bio, Rovikurt have proved themselves in the best way. They also do not tolerate ammonia and vinegar. For 10 liters of water, 5 ml is enough.

Crucifer bug

It is very difficult not to notice the pest on the radish. Its red-black striped and spotty color contrasts very effectively with bright green leaves. Females lay eggs on leaves; hatching individuals hibernate in leaf foliage and other plant debris. They come out of hibernation in the second half of April or in early May, the period of their activity continues until August. Radish receives maximum damage in hot, dry weather. Bed bugs feed on plant juice. Where they have inflicted mechanical damage, “wounds” remain, gradually turning into areas of dead tissue with a yellowish border.

It’s very difficult not to notice a crucifer bug on a plant

The experience of gardeners proves that the pest does not tolerate the smell of tansy. It is useful to plant this plant around the perimeter of the garden with radishes or periodically spray it with an infusion of greenery. A good effect of dates is tampons moistened with kerosene or turpentine and laid out between rows.

Высаженная неподалёку пижма эффективно защитит грядку с редисом от крестоцветного клеща

Обнаружив на растении первых вредителей, можно просто собрать их вручную. Чтобы заставить их уйти, редис и почву на грядке опрыскивают настоями ромашки аптечной, луковой шелухи. Наиболее действенные химикаты — Фосбецид, Белофос, Актара.

Капустная моль

Неприметная серовато-бурая бабочка никакого вреда растениям не причиняет. Чего не скажешь о её личинках. Желтоватые гусеницы, постепенно меняющие окрас на салатно-зелёный, выедают в тканях листьев продольные туннели. Затем выходят на поверхность и продолжают питаться ими же. Пострадавшие листовые пластины бледнеют и сохнут. От спячки насекомые просыпаются, как только воздух прогреется до 10ºС, их активность не прекращается до октября-ноября. Максимальный вред редису причиняется в жару при длительном отсутствии осадков.

Капустная моль — очень невзрачная бабочка

Народные средства в борьбе с вредителем особого эффекта не дают. Максимум, что они могут — слегка притормозить активность гусениц. Рекомендуют, например, настой сушёной лаванды или кожуры любых цитрусов. Поэтому для того чтобы уничтожить их, придётся прибегнуть к химикатам — Амбуш, Нурелл-Д, Талкорд. Взрослых бабочек отпугивают, используя методы, рекомендованные для борьбы с белянкой.

Народные средства в борьбе с личинками капустной моли неэффективны

Также они почему-то питают особую любовь к жёлтому цвету. Это можно использовать, сделав ловушки из кусков картона или фанеры соответствующего оттенка, смазанных чем-нибудь липким и долго сохнущим.

Капустная огнёвка

Бабочка грязновато-жёлтого цвета с расплывчатыми бурыми пятнами и штрихами на крыльях. Ведёт ночной образ жизни, поэтому вовремя заметить её появление достаточно сложно. Её гусеницы как бы соскабливают верхний слой тканей с листьев, оставляя «выемки» – ворота для всевозможных инфекций и иных вредителей. Особенно хорошо характерные повреждения заметны на изнанке листа.

Заметить появление капустной огнёвки проблематично — активность она проявляет в основном по ночам

Взрослых особей уничтожают с помощью ловушек. В обрезанную пластиковую бутылку помещают источник света, смазав её стенки чем-нибудь липким. Также можно применять Битоксибациллин, Дендробациллин. Против гусениц наилучший эффект дают препараты Анометрин, Рипкорд, Сумицидин, Гомелин. Если удалось заметить их появление вовремя, неплохо помогают народные средства, но они не оказывают никакого негативного воздействия на яйца огнёвки. Редис и почву на грядке рекомендуют обрабатывать настоем просеянной древесной золы, ботвы томатов.

Гусениц капустной огнёвки можно прогнать с грядки с помощью народных средств, но яйца от этого никак не пострадают

Рапсовый пилильщик

The rapeseed sawfly caterpillar is painted in greenish-gray or olive color with brown longitudinal stripes and the abdomen is slightly lighter. The adult is extremely small - the body length does not exceed 6–8 mm, the body and limbs have a bright saffron hue, the head is black, as if covered with varnish. The pest eats leaves almost completely, leaving only petioles. The radish dries and dies, root crops do not form. A horticulturist who does nothing can lose 80–95% of the total crop.

Rapeseed sawfly, as the name implies, has a special tendency to rapeseed, but does not disdain radishes

For prevention, radish seeds are soaked for 10-15 minutes before planting in a solution of Karate or Actellik. Adults are scared away from plantings using Bitoxibacillin. From folk remedies for treating plants and soil, you can use infusions of chamomile, needles, tansy, aconite (the latter is very toxic). Caterpillars effectively destroys Mospilan, Kinmiks, Arrivo, Fury. If there are few of them yet, you can spray the plantings diluted in water with calcined or baking soda, mustard powder (40-50 g per 10 l).

Many common, common insecticides are used to control the rapeseed sawfly larvae.

Rapeseed Blossom

The bug looks pretty nice - lacquered black, it casts blue-green in the sun (to this he owes his nickname "glitter" or "glitter"). He waits for winter in the upper layers of the soil, as soon as the air warms up to 10-12ºС, wakes up and goes outside. As a rule, it causes the greatest damage to rape (hence the name), eating flower buds from the inside, but does not disdain other Cruciferous (even wild), in particular, radish. Crop losses range from 20 to 70%. It depends on how purposefully the gardener fights the pest. The peak of its activity lasts from the second half of May until the end of June.

Rapeseed flower beetle peaks in late spring or early summer

Folk remedies in this case do not give any effect at all. Therefore, having discovered the first individuals on plants, any insecticides from the pyrethroid group are used. The most popular of them are Karate, Zeon, Kinmix, Fastak. You can try to “distract” it from the radish by planting some rape or colza nearby.

Literally 2-3 rape bushes planted in the garden can distract the canola beetle from more important crops for the gardener

Slug

Shell-free grayish-beige mollusks feeding on root crops and radish greens. They can destroy young shoots completely. In adult specimens, large holes in leaf tissues are eaten out, through “tunnels” in root crops are made. A sticky trace remains on the surface, casting silvery in the sun. Slugs do not like heat and dry air, therefore they prefer to hide during the day (for example, under stones, boards, leaves), leading mainly a nocturnal lifestyle.

Radish affected by slugs dramatically loses in viability and presentability

It is quite difficult to remove slugs. It is much easier to prevent them from appearing in the garden. To do this, build several traps - deep tanks dug into the soil, about half full of chopped cabbage, kvass, beer, fermented compote or jam. The roots of root crops are surrounded by a “barrier” of wood ash, crushed chalk, sand, needles, ground walnut or egg shells. Around the beds and in the aisles, any aromatic greens and other plants with a sharp aroma are planted. You can also place fresh nettle or wormwood leaves there.

Slugs do not even have minimal protection, so the needles serve as an insurmountable barrier for them.

Slugs have natural enemies - birds, frogs, hedgehogs. Attracting them to your own site is not so difficult. You can, for example, build a birdhouse or a small pond, periodically expose plates with milk and so on.

Having found several individuals, radishes and soil in the garden are sprayed with infusion of chili peppers or mustard powder diluted in water. There are, although extremely rare, cases of massive invasion of slugs. Then you can’t do without chemicals. From the best side, the drugs Meta, Thunderstorm, Sludge have recommended themselves.

Video: ways to fight slugs

Aphid

Extremely “omnivorous” pest, not disdain by the absolute majority of garden crops. Radish is no exception. Aphid is a small insect of greenish-yellow, pale-lettuce or black-brown color. It feeds on the sap of plants, attacking it with entire colonies. Many insects cling to the underside of leaves, especially young ones. Affected tissue areas become discolored; they look like small translucent beige dots on the lumen. Leaves are deformed, turn yellow and dry.

Aphids affect the vast majority of garden crops

Aphids live in a steady symbiosis with ants. It is impossible to get it out of the garden plot, if you do not attend to the struggle with these insects at the same time.

It is impossible to remove aphids from the garden without first getting rid of the ants

Aphids do not like strong strong odors. Therefore, spicy herbs, onions, garlic, fennel, marigolds, calendula, lavender will be good neighbors for radishes. Many of them are good honey carriers, attracting the attention of a natural aphid enemy - a ladybug. From their greenery, infusions are prepared with which plants and soil are sprayed. Other suitable raw materials are orange peels, needles, dried tobacco leaves, mustard powder.

There are plants, on the contrary, that attract aphids. This, for example, nasturtium, petunia, viburnum, linden, bird cherry.

Having discovered the first individuals, radishes are sprayed with foam of household, green potash or tar soap. After about half an hour, it will need to be washed off with clean water. Then apply the same infusions that were used for prevention, reducing the intervals between treatments from 8-10 days to 6-8 hours.

In the event of a massive aphid invasion, any general-acting insecticides are used. The most popular drugs are Inta-Vir, Confidor-Maxi, Iskra-Bio, Admiral, Tanrek.

Video: how to deal with aphids in the garden

Babanuha

The beetle affects the plantings of the Cruciferous, including radish, in most of Russia, with the exception of the Far East and Eastern Siberia. His color is very interesting - a bottle-green body with dark brown paws. Elytra as if relief, eight dents clearly visible on the head, similar to dots. Beetles begin to show activity in early June.

Babanuha is also known by the nickname "horseradish leaf beetle"

The pest gradually eats up the leaf plate, “scraping” the layers of tissue. The leaves become thinner, acquire an unnatural rusty shade, and become as if “rotten”. Through holes gradually appear with torn edges. Females lay eggs in cracks in the affected tissues, larvae winter in the soil.

For prevention, the soil on the bed is sprinkled with a mixture of ash with mustard powder and ground hot pepper. The radish itself is sprayed with vinegar diluted with water (15–20 ml of essence per 10 liters of water). Other popular folk remedies - infusion of tops of tomatoes, chamomile, yarrow.

Cut tomato stepsons can be used to make an infusion that repels many pests

On plants, beetles are very striking, so you can simply collect them manually. But it takes a lot of time. It’s much faster to shake them on an oilcloth or newspaper spread out on a bed. It is best to carry out the procedure early in the morning when they do not show much activity. Of the insecticides, Sherpa, Angio, Fury, Actara are most effective.

Radish is one of the easiest crops to grow. Caring for her, in fact, is reduced to the necessary minimum. The vegetable suffers from diseases and pests rather rarely, but nevertheless it is not completely immune from this. To avoid the loss of a significant portion or the entire crop, plantings should be regularly inspected for suspicious symptoms. And if these are identified, use the recommended folk remedies or chemicals. The best thing is not to forget about preventative measures. As a rule, they are quite enough to avoid infection.

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