Phalaenopsis: home care for a butterfly orchid

    Orchids on the windowsill are the dream of most amateur gardeners. But many do not dare to land them, fearing difficulties in the course of work. Indeed, these flowers are quite moody. But there are exceptions, for example, the Phalaenopsis orchid. They look no less impressive than other varieties, and caring for them at home is incomparably easier. The flower is quite suitable for a beginner florist who wants to "practice" before starting to cultivate Cattleya, Miltonia and Ludisia.

    What does the phalaenopsis orchid look like

    Phalaenopsis (Phalaenopsis) - one of the many representatives of the Orchidaceae family, a perennial epiphytic plant. In nature, most varieties of this orchid can be found in Southeast Asia, the Philippines, Indonesia, and other islands of the Malay archipelago. They grow in other regions with a humid tropical climate.

    In nature, phalaenopsis most often settles on tree trunks, using them as a support

    The name ("phalaenopsis" means "similar to a moth"), the plant owes a curiosity. One night in the dark, Director of the Leiden Botanical Garden Karl Ludwig Blume, who studied the flora of one of the islands between Asia and Australia, took these flowers for butterflies.

    The average height of the orchid is 50–70 cm. The stem is very short. The leaves are large, fleshy to the touch, up to 30–35 cm long. A maximum of 4–6 leaves is simultaneously formed on each orchid, no more than two per year.

    The stalk of the phalaenopsis is almost invisible, there are no pseudobulbs, the peduncle often bends

    The root system of the plant is very developed, because in nature it absorbs moisture and nutrients, mostly directly from the air. Healthy roots are greenish silver. Phalaenopsis is an epiphyte; therefore, it has no pseudobulbs typical of most other orchids.

    The roots of the phalaenopsis are covered with a thick layer of velamen - the tissue with which the plant draws moisture and nutrients from the air

    In the countries of North America and Western Europe, phalaenopsis are practically “disposable” plants. A flowering orchid is acquired, when the flowering ends, it is simply thrown away.

    The height of the curved peduncle reaches 70–80 cm. On each of them, from five to twenty or more flowers with a diameter of 3–8 cm are located. The central petal (labellum or the so-called lip) sharply contrasts with the others, standing out with a brighter color and / or pattern from speckles, strokes, stripes, spots. Most often, there are different shades of pink, yellow, purple, green, as well as white and cream-beige. Buds are formed at any time of the year, this orchid does not have a pronounced period of rest. Flowering, depending on the species, lasts from two months to six months.

    Phalaenopsis is distinguished by the duration and abundance of flowering

    Video: phalaenopsis description

    Varieties popular with gardeners

    About 40 species of phalaenopsis are found in nature. But far from all have adapted to the climate of modern apartments, which is radically different from their usual conditions.

    Most often, gardeners grow:

    • Horse Phalaenopsis (Equestris). In nature, grows in Taiwan and the Philippines. Peduncle of an ink-purple hue. When the first buds open, it gradually lengthens, and all new flowers form. Due to this, flowering stretches for 4-5 months. The flowers are pastel pink, medium-sized (2-3 cm in diameter). In optimal conditions, blooms twice a year - in spring and autumn.
    • Phalaenopsis olenorogy (Cornucervi). Most common on the islands of Kalimantan and Sumatra. The name is due to the unusual form of the peduncle - it is flattened, branched, with small outgrowths where buds form. Its height is about 40 cm. Each peduncle has 7-12 flowers. Petals are greenish-yellow with red spots, the “lip” is snow-white.
    • Phalaenopsis is lovely or pleasant (Amabilis). One of the most common varieties in home floriculture. The height of the plant is about 70 cm, the length of a flowering intensively branching peduncle is up to 1.5 m. Each of them has 20-30 flowers with cream-white or pinkish-yellow petals and a white-yellow-purple “lip”. In nature, their number reaches one hundred. The diameter of the flower is 8 cm or more. The peak of flowering occurs in late spring and early summer. The buds spread a pleasant aroma reminiscent of orange blossom.
    • Phalaenopsis Stuart (Stuartiana). It is distinguished by colorful coloring of leaves. Peduncle intensively branching, on each "shoot" 15-20 flowers with a diameter of 4-5 cm. The main tone of the petals is white or cream (with a dark scarlet spot at the base), the "lip" is orange-yellow with small burgundy spots. It blooms mainly in winter.
    • Phalaenopsis Schiller (Schilleriana). The “parent” of most breeding hybrids. It is found exclusively in the Philippines in nature. Bright green leaves on the outside are covered with silver and dark emerald spots, the inside is dull red. Peduncle up to 1 m high. Flowers with a diameter of 6-7 cm. Petals are pinkish-purple, the saturated hue at the base gradually fades closer to the tip. The "lip" is forked, somewhat similar to a double-toothed fork. The peak of flowering occurs in the winter. Adult plants, which are properly looked after, often form entire cascades of buds.
    • Phalaenopsis of Luddemann (Lueddemanniana). The plant is about 15–20 cm high, the peduncle stretches up to 30 cm. Each has a maximum of 7 flowers with a diameter of 3-4 cm, which have a pleasant unobtrusive aroma. Petals are lilac-pink, sometimes there are blotches and stripes, white, as well as various shades of yellow and burgundy. It blooms almost all year round. The leaves are light, salad shade.
    • Phalaenopsis Sandera (Sanderiana). Fairly rare variety. Variegated leaves. Peduncles 1.5 m or more tall, nickel. Each up to 50 buds. The petals are white-lilac, the “lip” is cream, with yellow streaks. The peak of flowering occurs in the summer.
    • Pink Phalaenopsis (Rosea). A natural miniature orchid with a height of not more than 10–15 cm. Leaf length - 8–10 cm. The flower stalk is curved, with 10–16 flowers with a diameter of up to 3 cm. Petals can be white-pink or crimson.
    • Phalaenopsis Parisha (Parishii). Another natural miniature orchid. The flower stalk height is up to 15 cm, the length of saturated green leaves is about 20 cm. On each flower stalk, 8–10 small (1.5–2 cm in diameter) flowers with cream or vanilla hues bloom simultaneously. The “lip” is very wide, painted in maroon or purple. The aroma is saturated, sugary-sweet, as if candy.
    • Giant Phalaenopsis (Gigantea). The name, as you might guess, is due to size. Leaf length - up to 1 m, peduncles short, only 40–50 cm. Each forms 25–30 buds with a diameter of 5–7 cm. A faint smell resembling the aroma of citruses is inherent in flowers. The color of the petals varies from white and pale yellow to lime and olive. A pattern of purple or chocolate spots and stripes is characteristic.
    • Amboinensis Phalaenopsis. The length of the leaves and the height of the curved peduncle is approximately 25-30 cm. Each year, a new flower stalk is formed on the orchid, while the old ones continue to grow and branch. Accordingly, flowering is gradually becoming more and more plentiful. Up to 10 buds are formed on each branch, but they open in turn. Orchid blooms mainly in the summer. The color of the petals varies from pale yellow to golden orange. The pattern is dull red or brownish stripes.
    • Phalaenopsis Philadelphia. A very popular breeding hybrid, derived from the phalaenopsis of Schiller and Stewart. Flowers with a diameter of 4-6 cm are painted in various shades of pink and purple. Valued for its unpretentiousness and cascading flowering.
    • Hieroglyphic phalaenopsis (Hieroglyphica). Another common hybrid. The height of the leaves and peduncle is 30–35 cm. The flowers are as if made of wax, with a pleasant aroma. Each peduncle has 3–6 of them. Snow-white petals, covered with a pattern in the form of pink and burgundy dots and strokes.
    • Phalaenopsis Royal Blue. Forms two peduncles at the same time. The petals are sky blue, the “lip” is dark blue. The height of the peduncle is about 60 cm, the diameter of the flower is 8–10 cm. The duration of flowering depends on how regularly top dressing was applied.
    • Phalaenopsis Black Butterfly. Breeding hybrid. The flowers are large, with a diameter of up to 10 cm. Petals are very dark purple in color with a thin white border around the edge. The “lip” is white-yellow-lilac.
    • Phalaenopsis Golden Beauty. At the same time, 2-3 peduncles are formed on the plant, on each 15 flowers or more. Petals are pale yellow, with a white spot at the base. The “lip” is pink, crimson or scarlet.
    • Phalaenopsis Mini-Mark Maria Teresa. It is considered the best variety in the Mini-Mark hybrid series. Leaf length - not more than 15 cm. Small flowers, 3-4 cm in diameter. Snow-white petals, strewn with small specks of different shades of yellow, orange and pink. "Lip" terracotta. Flowering lasts 3-4 months.
    • Phalaenopsis Amsterdam Jordan. Fairly rare hybrid. Bred in the XIX century, but still has not lost popularity. The height of the orchid is about 50 cm. Petals are raspberry or crimson, covered with burgundy spots with a white border. “Lip” is a dark cherry shade.
    • Phalaenopsis Harlequin (Harlequin). One of the so-called novelty phalaenopsis, hybrids originally from Taiwan. They are characterized by the compactness of the rosette of leaves, the presence of numerous peduncles and the correct shape of a flower that looks like a star. In this hybrid, lemon-yellow petals are covered with rounded burgundy spots. In the light they shine glossy, as if lacquered.

    Varieties of phalaenopsis grown at home, in the photo

    Horse Phalaenopsis, if you create favorable conditions for it, blooms twice a year

    Phalaenopsis olenorogy named due to an unusual form of peduncle

    Adorable phalaenopsis - one of the varieties most popular among gardeners

    Phalaenopsis Stuart can be identified by variegated leaves

    Schiller's Phalaenopsis is widely used by breeders to breed new orchid species.

    Flowering in Phalaenopsis Luddemann is almost continuous

    Phalaenopsis Sandera is one of the rarest varieties of this orchid

    Pink Phalaenopsis - a miniature orchid created by nature itself

    Phalaenopsis paris stands out with its unusual “lip” shape

    The giant phalaenopsis earned due to its own dimensions

    Every year, Phalaenopsis ambon blooms more and more abundantly

    Phalaenopsis Philadelphia - one of the most common breeding hybrids

    The pattern on the petals of the hieroglyphic phalaenopsis really resembles writing in an unknown language

    buying Phalaenopsis Royal blue, like other orchids of this shade, you need to be very careful - often their petals turn out to be just dyed

    Phalaenopsis Black Butterfly petals are very dark

    Phalaenopsis Golden beauty stands out for its abundance of flowering

    Phalaenopsis Mini-Mark Maria Teresa - one of the most successful miniature hybrids

    Phalaenopsis Amsterdam Jordan bred more than a hundred years ago, but is still popular with flower growers

    Phalaenopsis harlequin petals are glossy, as if varnished

    Optimal conditions for growing

    The humid subtropical climate, familiar to orchids, is radically different from the conditions of modern apartments. Nevertheless, they successfully adapted to them. When caring for the Phalaenopsis orchid at home, nothing supernatural will be needed from the grower.

    Table: what conditions do phalaenopsis need

    FactorRecommendations
    LocationWindow sill of a window facing east, southeast, west. It should be borne in mind that the plant does not like cold drafts, but needs a regular influx of fresh air.
    LightingDirect exposure to phalaenopsis is not recommended. Light penumbra is best suited. Hybrids bred by breeding can exist even under completely artificial lighting. In winter, backlighting with conventional luminescent or special phytolamps is desirable. The optimal duration of daylight hours is 12-14 hours.
    TemperatureThroughout the year, the optimal value is 23–25ºС. The difference between day and night temperature is not more than 5–7ºС. The critical minimum for the plant is 10–12ºС. Above 35 ° C is also undesirable.
    Air humidityThe permissible value is 40–50%, the optimum is 60–70%. But at the same time, good ventilation is required. If the indicator drops to 30% or lower, the air next to plants is sprayed daily or humidity is raised in other ways. Such a procedure is also useful in winter - heating batteries dry the air very much. The only thing that can not be done in any case is to pour water directly into the pan of the pot.

    Phalaenopsis is undesirable to be placed on the south window, if there is simply no other place, the plants necessarily shade, protecting from direct sunlight

    Phalaenopsis tends to reach the sun, so every 15-20 days the pot is rotated 180º. The exception is the period before flowering. While buds are forming, the peduncle is carefully tied to a peg-shaped support. Their pedicels “harden” in about two weeks, after which they will no longer be able to change position.

    It will also be useful material on the cultivation of Bauchinia, whose flowers resemble orchids in shape: rastenija / bauxiniya-orxidejnoe-derevo-v-domashnix-usloviyax.html

    Planting and Transplantation Procedure

    Phalaenopsis, like any other orchid, will grow and bloom only in a suitable substrate, which looks little like soil in the usual sense of the word. Therefore, a plant purchased in a store should be transplanted as soon as possible. You can buy a special soil mixture for orchids or make it yourself from small pieces of charcoal, dry sphagnum moss, coconut fiber, pine bark, dried fern roots. All ingredients are taken in approximately equal proportions.

    Soil for orchids is not at all like soil in the usual sense of the word

    The pot is chosen transparent - it is easier to control the condition of the roots. In addition, they participate in photosynthesis in orchids. At the bottom, a drainage layer of at least 2-3 cm thick made of expanded clay or polystyrene crumb is mandatory. It is desirable that the tank had “legs” - in this case, the substrate does not come into contact with the water in the pan.

    A transparent pot allows you to control the condition of the roots and substrate, adjust the frequency of watering

    The soil deteriorates quickly enough, it is salted and caked. Therefore, transplanted phalaenopsis annually. Any time except flowering season is suitable for the procedure. To extract the orchid from the pot, it is soaked for several hours in warm water. You can replace it with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate for the prevention of fungal diseases.

    The roots are cleaned from pieces of bark. Dry and dead areas are cut off, the sections are sprinkled with crushed chalk, activated carbon, cinnamon. Then it is desirable to dry them within 6-8 hours. Phalaenopsis is transferred to a new pot, the substrate is poured, not compacting it. In this case, the plant should be stably placed in a pot. About 3/4 of the capacity volume should be filled with soil. If aerial roots stick out, that's fine.

    There is nothing complicated in transplanting an orchid, even a beginner grower will cope with the procedure

    During the first week, the transplanted orchid is especially carefully protected from direct sunlight. It is watered for the first time only after 5-7 days, top dressing is introduced no earlier than a month later.

    It is also practiced growing phalaenopsis (especially miniature) on pieces of bark, snags, pressed coconut fiber, mimicking the natural habitat. Such compositions look very impressive. Orchid roots are wrapped in a layer of sphagnum moss and firmly attached to the support using pieces of wire. Such plants are watered by spraying moss-sphagnum.

    Phalaenopsis in compositions that mimic the natural habitat of orchids look very impressive

    Video: how to transplant an orchid

    Important Nuances of Plant Care at Home

    Phalaenopsis is one of the most unpretentious orchids. Even a beginner grower can take care of it. The plant does not have a clearly expressed dormant period, therefore, during the year, watering and top dressing are carried out in almost the same mode.

    Water for irrigation use only soft and settled, room temperature. The frequency is adjusted based on the weather on the street. In any case, let the substrate dry completely. This can be determined by the fact that condensation ceases to form on the walls of the pot.

    If in doubt, it is better to wait a few more days. Phalaenopsis will tolerate this quite easily. But frequent and plentiful watering to the plant is strictly contraindicated. Under normal conditions, once every 3-4 days is enough.

    As a general rule, the colder it is in the street, the less light and the finer the substrate fraction, the less orchids are watered. Watering at night is not recommended.

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    Orchids are watered by immersion. A pot with a plant is lowered into a container of water so that it completely covers the soil. As soon as the bubbles stop coming out, the orchid is removed from the container and dried well.

    Water the phalaenopsis of immersion methods, or at least so that drops of water do not fall into the axils of the leaves

    Once every 2-3 months it is useful to wash the substrate, getting rid of excess salts. The pot is kept under running water for 5-10 minutes.

    Top dressing is applied every 10-12 days. Fertilizers are chosen by those that are specifically designed for orchids. Before this, the plant must be watered. Foliar top dressing is also practiced, but in this case, you need to make sure that drops of the solution do not fall into the axils of the leaves, on the flowers and buds. The concentration of the product is reduced by half compared with the recommended manufacturer.

    For feeding phalaenopsis, special means for orchids are chosen

    The fact that phalaenopsis lacks nutrients is evidenced by the “torn” or “corrugated” edges of the petals.

    Video: Phalaenopsis Care Tips

    Flowering phalaenopsis

    Phalaenopsis flowers can appear at any time. Particular attention should be paid to temperature - the hotter the room, the faster the buds open and dry. Ethylene, which is produced by ripe fruits, especially apples and bananas, has a similar effect.

    To stimulate flowering, it is recommended to reduce watering to the required minimum for 2-3 weeks and lower the temperature of the content to 16-18 ° C. A difference between day and night temperature of at least 5 ° C is mandatory. Practice shows that the “summer” flower stalks are shorter than the “winter” ones, and the buds on them are more heaped, with almost no intervals.

    In order for a peduncle to form on the phalaenopsis, a small temperature difference is required during the day

    After flowering, if the peduncle is not completely dry, cut off only that part of it that has changed hue and dried up, covering the cut with brilliant green. From the remaining kidneys on it, lateral “shoots” will form, and on them buds. Such a procedure is undesirable only for young and miniature phalaenopsis, prolonged flowering greatly weakens them.

    Phalaenopsis flowering is a well-deserved reward for the grower

    Common florist errors

    Often, the floriculturist himself is to blame for the deterioration of the appearance of the phalaenopsis orchid. It is necessary to correct individual errors in care in time, and the condition of the plant will return to normal.

    Table: how errors appear in orchid care

    What does the plant look likeWhat is the reason
    Lack of floweringExcess or deficiency of nutrients
    Wilting, drying budsTemperature changes, other sudden changes in conditions of detention, cold drafts
    Rotting rootsLow room temperature combined with heavy watering
    Sluggish, wrinkled leaves, sometimes with small indented spotsDamage to the root system or temperature too high
    Dark green leavesLight deficit
    Longitudinal cracks in the leavesMechanical damage. Or a whole range of factors - abundant watering, heat and low humidity, excessive feeding. The cause may also be a sharp drop in temperature immediately after watering.
    Watery swellings on the leavesOverly watering
    Dark spots with a yellowish border on the leavesSunburn. Especially often they appear if drops of water fell on the leaves when watering
    Yellowing or browning leavesStagnant water in the axils of the leaves, especially in combination with low temperature and lack of light

    Yellowing leaves indicate improper watering in combination with far from ideal conditions for keeping orchids

    Diseases, pests and their control

    Phalaenopsis rarely suffers from diseases and pests with proper care. Nevertheless, not a single grower is safe from this. Therefore, do not forget about preventive measures:

    • regular airing of the room;
    • free, without crowding, placing flower pots on the windowsill;
    • minimum two-week quarantine for newly acquired copies;
    • the use of only sharpened tools for any work with the plant, the treatment of all "wounds";
    • immediate removal of suspicious symptoms from the windowsill.

    Table: phalaenopsis diseases and pests typical

    Disease or pestSymptomsControl and Prevention Measures
    Spider miteThe braiding parts of the plant are thin translucent "cobwebs", fading and discolored leavesPrevention: maintaining high humidity, weekly irradiation of plants with a quartz lamp, spraying with onion or garlic gruel infusion, a decoction of cyclamen tubers.

    Fight: use of acaricides (Neoron, Sunmayt, Apollo, Vertimek). For each subsequent treatment, it is recommended to take a new drug, the pest quickly develops immunity

    AphidSmall insects clinging to the underside of leaves, peduncles and buds. Affected tissues are covered with small beige dots, the plant driesPrevention: regular shower for plants, spraying with any pungent infusions. As raw materials, you can use the arrows of onion, garlic, lemon peel, tomato tops, dried tobacco leaves and so on.

    Fight: apply foam to the plant with household or green potash soap, wash in the shower. If the aphids are few, you can use the same infusions by treating the flower 3-4 times a day. In the absence of effect, Iskra-Bio, Inta-Vir, Fitoverm preparations are used

    ShieldFlat "growths" of gray-brown color, gradually increasing in volume, tissues around them acquiring a reddish-yellow huePrevention: keeping the plant clean, regular ventilation of the room.

    Fight: remove visible shields (for this you need to grease their shells with kerosene, turpentine, machine oil and wait 2-3 hours), treat the plant with Fufanon, Fosbetsid, Aktara

    ThripsSmall black “sticks” on the leaves, blurry yellowish spots on the front side and delicate silver touches on the insidePrevention: spraying the plant with the foam of laundry soap, with the same infusions that are recommended for combating aphids.

    Fight: the use of drugs Mospilan, Spintor

    AnthracnoseSmall brownish spots on the leaves, gradually darkening and tightening with a layer of pinkish-yellow coatingPrevention: periodic replacement of water for irrigation with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate; adding sifted wood ash or crushed chalk to the substrate.

    Fighting: removal of all affected tissues, disinfection of “wounds” (rinse with 1% copper sulfate, sprinkle with activated carbon powder, cover with brilliant green), reduce watering to the required minimum, use fungicides (Ridomil Gold, Bayleton, Chorus)

    Powdery mildewPowdery whitish coating similar to spilled flour. Gradually it darkens and “thickens”Prevention: regular shower for the plant, spraying the soil with a solution of soda ash or mustard powder.

    Fight: washing the leaves with soap suds, treating the flower with a solution of colloidal sulfur. If there is no effect - spraying with Immunocytophyte, Topsin-M, Fitosporin

    Brown bacterial rot“Wet” translucent brownish spots on the leaves, gradually increasing in size and merging with each otherPrevention: competent plant care, especially proper watering, monthly spraying of the substrate with 1% copper sulfate.

    Fight: for resuscitation, plants carry out the removal of all affected tissues, disinfect "wounds", reduce watering to the required minimum, treat the flower and soil with any fungicide. Then the plant is quarantined for 10-12 days. In relapse, it remains only to throw it away

    Root rotBlackened, slimy, touchy roots, browning leaves, mold coating on the substratePrevention: proper watering, periodic replacement of water with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, introduction of Trichodermin, Gliocladin granules into the soil, monthly spraying with 0.2% Fundazole.

    Fighting (possible only if the disease is noticed at an early stage): transplanting the plant into a new pot using a sterilized substrate. The roots need to be cut, removing all infected tissues, treating the “wounds”, then soak them for 3-4 hours in a fungicide solution. Dry well before landing

    FusariumYellowing leaves that have lost their tone, gradually curled into tubules and acquire a pinkish tintPrevention: creating optimal or close conditions for the plant, monthly treatment with 0.2% Fundazole solution.

    Fight: apply the same measures as for combating brown bacterial rot

    External manifestations of symptoms of the defeat of phalaenopsis by diseases and pests: photo

    The spider mite is not an insect, therefore, special drugs - acaricides are used to combat it

    Aphids - one of the most "omnivorous" pests of indoor plants, it also will not disdain orchids

    Folk remedies in the fight against scale insects are ineffective - the pest reliably protects the durable shell

    Small black “sticks” on the leaves are nothing but the thrips themselves

    The development of anthracnose contributes to stale indoor air and high air humidity.

    Powdery mildew seems to be a harmless coating that can be easily wiped off the leaf, but in fact it is a dangerous disease

    Cutting off parts of a leaf affected by brown bacterial rot, you need to capture a part of the tissue that seems healthy in appearance

    Orchid root rot can be treated only if the disease is noticed at an early stage of development

    Orchids that create optimal or close conditions are rarely affected by Fusarium.

    Breeding methods

    At home, phalaenopsis propagates vegetatively. Growing orchids from seeds is a very complex and time-consuming procedure, which also requires absolute sterility and the use of special nutritional compounds. It is also impossible to guarantee compliance with varietal characteristics. The best time for breeding is the end of winter and spring.

    Reproduction by "offspring"

    Phalaenopsis “children” are formed at a slightly lowered temperature of their content (20–21ºС). Under normal conditions, the plant is likely to produce a peduncle. Most often, they are formed at the base of the stem or from "sleeping" buds on the peduncle. The latter can be treated with cytokinin paste.

    "Phalaenopsis" children are formed mainly on the peduncle

    “Siblings” are left on the orchid until the leaves on them grow to 2-3 cm in length and the roots grow to 5-6 cm. “Children” are separated from the mother plant, planted in a separate small pot, taken care of like an adult orchid . Until they start to grow, it is advisable to cover the container with a plastic bag or a cut plastic bottle.

    Cytokinin paste - a drug that stimulates the flowering and reproduction of orchids

    Video: rooting the “children” of phalaenopsis

    Peduncle propagation

    The flower stalk remaining green after flowering 1.5–2 months after all buds have fallen off, is cut off at the base and divided into 4–5 parts no more than 20 cm long. Each of them should have a growth bud. Slices are made at an angle of 40–45º.

    Each part of the peduncle must have a growth bud

    Then they are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon, crushed with chalk. “Cuttings” are horizontally placed in a container filled with fine expanded clay or sand, and they are covered with damp sphagnum moss on top. The container is covered with a plastic bag or a glass cap. In order for the growth buds to “wake up, ” a temperature of at least 25–27 ° C, daylight hours of 14–16 hours, and lower heating are required. “Greenhouse” is aired daily, getting rid of accumulated condensate, the substrate is kept in a moderately wet state.

    The "greenhouse" with cuttings must be regularly ventilated, otherwise the development of rot is very likely

    Video: propagation of phalaenopsis "cuttings"

    Plant division

    The method is suitable only for absolutely healthy, powerful and developed plants. In the outlet they have at least 6-8 leaves. To get a new orchid, the top is cut off from the old one. Aerial roots must be present on it. Place the sections sprinkled with any powdery biostimulant, disinfected. The top is transplanted into a separate container. Flowering from it can be expected in 2-3 years.

    After dividing the orchid for a long time "comes to life"

    Florist reviews

    The first phalaenopsis was presented to me at Christmas at my request: I really wanted to try my hand at growing orchids, which I read a lot about. Having read everything on the forums, I rushed with him for a long time, but then somehow there was no time for "dancing with tambourines." I thought everything: she’ll die, but it turned out to be not so. Now I understand that plant care needs to be learned from nature. To give a plant everything you need, first of all you need to know where and in what conditions in nature it grows, and adapt the knowledge gained to your conditions. These orchids conquer with the beauty of their flowers, the duration of flowering (up to six months) and unpretentiousness in care. This plant is suitable for those who do not have time for complex care and at the same time give a lot of positive emotions.

    Marion

    The formation of a baby or peduncle of phalaenopsis is very temperature-related. At temperatures above 25 ° C, flower stalks are mainly formed, and for the formation of a baby, a temperature of 22-24 ° C is required and preferably without nightly drops.

    Annushka

    Phalaenopsis does not have a pronounced dormant period, but it is advisable to make a couple of weeks of drying (relative to ordinary watering, of course) + a slight decrease in temperature. And when forming a flower stalk, it is desirable to highlight its top, then even with further cloudy weather the flower stalk will develop normal flowers. And feed during the period of active growth and stop when laying the peduncle. Otherwise, he will drive the “tops” instead of flowers.

    Lucina

    I feed the phalaenopsis at each irrigation with the most common fertilizer - Bon Forte for orchids. They sat all summer on the balcony, the summer was cool, that is, the temperature difference at night and during the day is very good! Now, alas, during the winter I strongly abandoned my phalaenopsis and so far no one has flower stalks, the children don’t count, I hope to correct this situation in the summer. But about cascading flowering, there is such an interesting recommendation. To grow a champion phalaenopsis, keep it for two years at a temperature of 29 ° C so that the plant becomes huge with many leaves, but does not bloom. Lower the temperature so that the peduncle appears, and then return to about 21ºС, carefully screwing the peduncles to the wire until you have 3 peduncles carrying about 15 open flowers each. Lower the temperature again so that the existing flower stalks begin to lengthen again, then again return to a temperature of about 21 ° C and carefully screw the next 15 flowers. All these steps will take about 4 months and during this time you can not increase the humidity too much to prevent the appearance of rot spots on the flowers.

    Blacklady

    It seems to me that cascading flowering is, first of all, a genetic tendency to form children. Schloe's phalaenopsis, Philadelphia and their descendants like to “be fruitful” (although Philadelphia seems to be a descendant of the Schiller and Stewart phalaenopsis itself.) I have six phalaenopsis, and there is only one bastard that “cascades”. The second, of course, is good lighting conditions. Now I’m watching how my phalaenopsis sits with my friend, whose lighting is just a disaster. They don’t even have their own growth, what kind of kids. These are two whales. And the third kitten is feeding and watering. Children, and especially blooming ones, require a lot of water. From time to time you have to not only drink well, but also soar in your soul so that the phalaenopsis is fed through the leaves. And now I feed all the flowers with shock doses of urea - a teaspoon per liter of water. A magic tool, works wonders. Only it needs good lighting.

    Cymes

    I cultivate Phalaenopsis for several years and really love for beautiful and long flowering, but watering has always turned into torture for me. Raking all the orchids from the windowsill, dragging them to a basin with warm water, unwilling pots to drown, floated bark, puddles on the floor ... Well, in general, everyone understood what I mean ... A large number of plants, multiplied by my impatient character, equaled regular drying out these orchids. They, in general, did not particularly complain, but bloomed irregularly and periodically dried the buds ready to open. Exactly a year ago, I realized that it couldn’t go on like this anymore and I had to urgently invent something. And then my eyes fell on a pile of flowerpots that were bought a long time ago and dusted on a shelf for several years. Since then, my windowsills have not left my phalaenopsis, and it takes no more than 4-5 seconds to water each orchid. Please (especially for beginners), before following my example, carefully read my story to the end, since not every phalaenopsis can not only not rot its roots, but also flourish in such conditions! The first important point: all my phalaenopsis were once transplanted from store dust with foam rubber to clean bark with the addition of a very small part of sphagnum (compared to store, my substrate is less moisture-absorbing). Some of my phalaenopsis live on purchased bark, partially rotted, some on collected in the forest (and digested), poorly absorbing and retaining moisture. From above, the substrate is covered with a layer of sphagnum; if removed, the bark will dry out much faster. The second important point: phalaenopsis planted in a standard pot for orchids - on the "legs" and with transparent walls. Third: a large number of holes of decent diameter were made in the walls of the pot with a hot screwdriver for good air circulation. These are transparent holey pots on all sides on legs and are placed in a cache-pot of suitable diameter. Now all watering is reduced to a quick spill of the substrate every 7–10 days (pour about 100 ml of water on a standard pot, maybe a little less). I don’t drain the water from the pots! It covers the bottom by about 1–1.5 cm and is gradually absorbed into the substrate (sphagnum plays the role of wicks that bring moisture to the bark and roots of the plant). Water in a pot can be delayed for 2-3 days or more (depending on the amount of water poured and the time of year). Important: on a cold window sill in winter, such watering is not suitable, although ... Phalaenopsis can not be kept on a cold window sill.

    Natali

    Phalaenopsis is one of the most unpretentious in the care of orchids. Even a beginner grower can achieve flowering from her. The plant looks very attractive, decorating the interior. There are quite a lot of natural varieties of phalaenopsis, there are hybrids bred by breeding. If you set a goal, it is quite possible to assemble a large collection.

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