Indoor Gerbera: growing and caring at home

    Recently, many garden flowers "move" to the windowsills. “Bouquets in pots” is very fashionable and stylish, besides it pleases the eye much longer. So in the care of a room gerbera there is nothing complicated. Even a novice grower can, by creating optimal home conditions for the plant, achieve bright and plentiful flowering.

    What room gerbera looks like

    Gerbera is a perennial herb from the Asters family. It was first discovered on the territory of modern South Africa. Most species can also be found on the island of Madagascar and in Southeast Asia. In total, about 80 varieties of gerberas are currently described. In nature, most of them bloom twice a year, in spring and autumn.

    Gerbera in nature was first discovered in Transvaal

    Botanists have known this plant for a long time, since the XVIII century. Its scientific description was given by a Dutch scientist Jan Gronovius. He is the author of the name of the flower, which he received in honor of a friend of the botanist, a German physician and biologist Gerber Traugott. By the way, he lived in Russia for a rather long time, exploring the Volga flora, and was even appointed director of the Botanical Garden in Moscow. The plant has an unofficial nickname. Because of the habitat and appearance of the flower, a gerbera is often called a transvaal daisy.

    There are about 80 varieties of "natural" gerberas and about 200 breeding hybrids

    “Domesticated” it only at the end of the XIX century. Scottish breeder R. Jameson managed to do this, in whose honor one of the most common flower varieties is named, which has become the "parent" of the vast majority of indoor gerberas. Also widely used by breeders is the green leaf gerbera.

    Gerber Jameson - the basis for most breeder experiments

    In nature, the height of the plant reaches 60–70 cm, but for indoor varieties the “ceiling” is 25–30 cm. The diameter of the inflorescence in the shape of a basket varies from 4–5 cm to 12–15 cm. Leaves of complex shape, cirrus dissected, 15– 20 cm in length. Peduncles naked.

    Leaves of a room gerbera slightly smaller than peduncles

    Flowers can be simple and double, petals - pointed or rounded. Their color is the most diverse. Almost all colors are found, except for blue and blue - snow-white, cream, pink, purple, scarlet, orange, pink, purple. At the end of flowering, fruits filled with seeds are formed. They retain germination for about six months.

    Neither breeders nor nature itself managed to bring out the blue gerberas, just to paint the petals to get an unusual shade

    Gerbera is one of the best-selling flowers in the world. She is second only to roses, carnations, tulips and chrysanthemums in this indicator. She owes this to her discreet, but very elegant beauty. Florists really appreciate her for her ability not to fade without water for a long time. In the language of flowers, gerbera symbolizes joy, kindness, a smile, generally positive emotions, therefore it is often included in brides' bouquets. Giving a gerbera, whether to a man or a woman, is a good way to express admiration, appreciation and gratitude. In general, this flower is surprisingly cheerful, invariably reminiscent of summer and the sun.

    Gerberas are popular flowers among brides; they are appreciated by girls for discreet elegance and elegance.

    Plant life is short, only 3-4 years. Then the flowers are smaller, they are becoming smaller. Gerber has to rejuvenate or replace with a new instance. And in Europe and North America, it is generally considered a “disposable” plant. The faded gerbera is simply thrown away.

    The gerbera collection is a very effective interior decoration

    Video: flower appearance

    Varieties popular among gardeners

    At home, “natural” gerberas are almost never found, flower growers prefer hybrids bred by breeding. All of them are conditionally divided into six groups:

    • Race Diem. Hybrids come from Asia. The inflorescence reaches a diameter of 7–9 cm, the petals are narrow.
    • American The petals are narrow, pointed. The diameter of the flower is 10–13 cm.
    • Large-flowered medium and wide-petalled. A little different diameter inflorescences. In the first case, it is 11–13 cm, in the second - 15 cm or more.
    • Terry or semi-terry narrow and broad-leaved. The most popular variety of gerberas due to its decorative effect. The diameter of the flower is from 10–11 cm to 14–15 cm.

    Gerberas are classified by botanists and breeders based on the shape of the petals and the size of the flower

    Among the most common varieties of indoor gerberas can be noted:

    • Parade. Petals shimmer with different shades of yellow, golden, orange, flowers look like little suns. Unlike other varieties, it retains good selection characteristics when propagated by seeds.
    • Happipot. Terry flower. Petals of different shades of pink with a brownish base.
    • Ilios. The shape of the petals and the size of the flowers varies greatly. Coloring - from yellowish to pale scarlet, including all shades of orange.
    • Hummingbird Against the background of dark green leaves, bright sunny yellow and blood-red flowers look very impressive.
    • Sweet Surprise. Purple petals brightening at the tips. Saffron flower core.
    • Jasmina Large pastel pink flowers, petals are covered with a pattern of delicate white touches. The core is black and purple.
    • Pam. The core of the flower is a brick shade. Petals are bright pink or raspberry.
    • Sweet Caroline. The core of the flower is lemon yellow. Petals are orange-orange, yellowish closer to the tip.
    • Orangina. Shiny yellow-orange petals. The flowers are very large.
    • Sweet Honey Both the flower and the core are painted pale yellow, sometimes more like a cream color. The core can generally be almost white.
    • Sweet glow Petals are very bright, orange-red. They contrast spectacularly with the pale green core.
    • Sophie Large gerberas of a beautiful pink-red hue (artists call this color scarlet). The core is creamy yellow. A distinctive feature is the presence of long stamens.
    • Rachel Very bright blood-red scarlet petals and soft salad core.
    • Sylvana. From a distance, these gerberas are very easy to mistake for chamomiles. The core is bright yellow, snow-white petals.
    • Catherine. It differs from the previous variety only in the shape of the petals. They are a bit narrow, needle-shaped.
    • Valerie. The front side of the petal is pastel pink, as if sprinkled with light beige powder. The wrong side has a more saturated color, lilac-pink. The core is tan.

    Varieties of gerberas grown at home: photo

    Gerbera Parade - as if shimmering petals

    Gerbera Happipot - a very pure pink color regardless of hue

    Gerbera Ilios - individual specimens are very different from each other

    Gerbera Hummingbird - a spectacular contrast of dark leaves and bright flowers

    Gerbera Sweet Suprise - one of two-tone varieties

    Gerbera Jasmina - a very delicate shade of petals

    Gerbera Pam - one of the brightest

    Gerbera Sweet Caroline from afar resembles a marigold flower

    Gerbera Orangina differs in large size inflorescences

    Gerbera Sweet Honey - very beautiful golden honey flowers

    Gerbera Sweet Glow - petals, a touch reminiscent of sunset in the tropics

    Gerbera Sophie among “relatives” stands out for the presence of long stamens

    Gerbera Rachel - terry flowers that always cheer up

    Gerbera Sylvana - from afar the flowers are very reminiscent of large daisies

    Gerbera Catherine - one of the narrow-leaved species

    Gerbera Valerie stands out with different color of petals on both sides

    Optimum home conditions for plant maintenance

    When acquiring a gerbera, you need to remember that prolonged and plentiful flowering is possible only in optimal or close conditions. The birthplace of the flower is South Africa. Accordingly, the plant loves heat (but not heat) and sunlight.

    In summer, indoor gerbera has a very positive attitude towards outdoor activities.

    Table: suitable conditions for growing gerbera

    FactorRecommendations
    LocationWindow sill of a window facing east or west. Gerbera is quite tolerant of drafts, so the room should be regularly ventilated. In summer, the plant has nothing against fresh air. At this time of the year, indoor gerberas feel great on the balcony, on the veranda, just on the street. You can even transplant them into open ground
    LightingThe optimal daylight hours, including during the rest period, are 10-12 hours. Necessarily shading from direct sunlight in the hottest time of the day, especially in the summer, from about 11:00 to 14:00. From mid-autumn to mid-spring in most of Russia, it will be necessary to provide illumination using conventional fluorescent, LED or special phytolamps located about 80 cm above the pot at a slight angle. Correct lighting is a necessary condition for flowering
    TemperatureNormal values ​​for gerbera are 20–24 ° С during the period of active vegetation and 14–16 ° С during the winter “rest”. At 12 ° C, it plunges into hibernation, almost all processes slow down, flowering is excluded. The critical minimum is 8–10 ° С. The plant does not like sudden changes in temperature, especially during flowering. Gerbera also does not tolerate heat of 30 ° C and higher - inflorescences quickly wither, leaves lose their tone
    Air humidityGerbera does not like dry air. The best indicator is 70–80%. The easiest way to achieve it is to regularly spray the surrounding area, creating a water suspension or fog around the flower. Drops on leaves and petals are undesirable. Other ways to increase the air humidity in the room are to put wet expanded clay, moss-sphagnum, coconut fiber in the pan of the pot, create a “company” gerbera from other plants, place basins in the room with cool water, purchase a special device

    Gerberas love heat and sunlight, but not heat and scorching rays

    Material about planting and caring for garden gerberas can also be useful: ozelenenie / gerbera-sadovaya-posadka-i-uhod.html

    Planting and Transplantation Procedure

    The life span of room gerbera is quite small, only 3-4 years. During this period, it will need to be transplanted only once or twice. The first time the procedure is carried out soon after purchase. Store soil is not too suitable for a flower. But before that, he needs to be given 2–2.5 weeks to adapt to new living conditions.

    The optimal time for transplantation is after the end of the dormant period, from about the end of February to mid-March. Although some growers recommend doing this before "going on vacation, " somewhere in late autumn.

    The diameter of the pot is increased by 2-3 cm. It is best to purchase a container of unglazed ceramic - it passes air well. But in winter, the roots of plants in such pots can be cold, and the gerbera is very sensitive to this. Therefore, if in winter the container with it stands on the windowsill, it is advisable to put foam or a piece of wood under the pallet for thermal insulation.

    It is best to plant gerberas in ceramic pots, they pass air better, promoting aeration of the roots

    The gerbera pot is chosen quite tight. This is a necessary condition for abundant flowering. One or more drainage holes are mandatory. In shape, the capacity should be neither too wide nor too high. The volume of the pot is approximately 1-1.5 liters.

    For growing gerberas, a universal store soil for flowering indoor plants is quite suitable. But you can mix the substrate yourself. The flower prefers a nutritious, loose, slightly acidic soil. Categorically excluded as components of the mixture are humus and rotted compost. They can simply “burn” the delicate roots of the plant.

    Gerbera is quite satisfied with the universal soil for flowering indoor plants

    Soil mix options for indoor gerberas:

    • fertile turf, peat crumb, dry sphagnum moss, chopped pine bark (4: 2: 2: 1);
    • leafy earth (or universal soil for indoor plants), peat chips, coarse sand, small pieces of charcoal (3: 1: 1: 1);
    • peat, perlite or vermiculite, chopped coconut fiber (4: 1: 1);
    • purchased soil for roses, any “baking powder” (perlite, vermiculite, sand, sphagnum moss or coconut fiber), pieces of charcoal (5: 2: 1).

    The gerbera is transplanted by transshipment, trying to disturb the roots as little as possible. But for the first time this is inevitable, since they need to shake off or clean off with a wooden stick as much of the store substrate as possible. Gerber roots do not prune or cut.

    Gerbera is transferred to a new pot with a lump of earth on the roots

    The pot is filled with freshly prepared sterilized substrate by about a third. The container also needs to be disinfected, even if it is brand new. At the bottom, a drainage layer of expanded clay, pebbles, gravel, pieces of polystyrene foam, small ceramic shards with a thickness of at least 2-3 cm is required. The earthen lump is transferred to the entire container, the substrate is carefully poured along the edges. In no case can you deepen the root neck. It should rise 3-4 cm above the surface of the soil.

    After transplantation, the substrate is compacted, the gerbera is moderately watered. For the next 3-5 days, it is removed in the shade, protecting it from direct sunlight. The first top dressing is carried out no earlier than three weeks after the procedure. Use mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers that stimulate the flower to actively build green mass.

    If a week after the transplant, the indoor gerbera looks as if it has not yet moved away from stress, the surrounding air is sprayed, a plastic bag is put on the plant. They keep the flower in the “greenhouse” until it starts growing, airing it daily to get rid of the accumulating condensate and to prevent the development of rot.

    If after transplanting the gerbera leaves lose their tone for several days - this is normal

    Video: how to transplant a gerbera

    Plant Care Recommendations

    Caring for a room gerbera is relatively straightforward. The most important thing is proper watering. The plant negatively reacts to both excess moisture and its deficiency. Abundant and prolonged flowering greatly depletes it, so a dormant period is mandatory.

    In general, it is best to care for the gerbera, focusing on the natural cycle of its development. The beginning of flowering occurs at the end of summer, this sight of the florist is happy until the end of autumn. Then follows the winter "rest", lasting from November to February. In March, the plant gradually leaves its hibernation and begins to actively build up green mass, which is what the spring and most of the summer do.

    The soil in a pot with a gerbera must be constantly maintained in a moderately moist state. The next watering is carried out when after the previous substrate in the pot dries 2-3 cm. This can be determined using a dry toothpick or match. This is also noticeable in the appearance of the plant. The leaves of the gerbera, which "wants to drink, " go down, lose their tone.

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    Gerbera watered so that the leaves and flowers remain dry

    When watering, try to avoid getting drops on leaves and inflorescences. It is best to pour water around the edges of the pot using a watering can with a long nose. You can also practice watering in the pan. Only after about half an hour do not forget to drain excess water from it.

    The intervals between irrigation adjust, focusing on the weather on the street. When pretty cool, twice a week is enough. In extreme heat, a gerbera is watered daily, sometimes even in the morning and in the evening, and is additionally sprayed. During the dormant period, the number of irrigations is reduced by moistening the soil in the pot once every 7-10 days. But refuse spraying is not worth it. On the contrary, the gerbera needs them even more than usual. Running radiators and other heating appliances dry the air very much.

    Drops of water on the leaves and petals of a gerbera can provoke the development of rot and cause sunburn

    In any case, water is used at a soft, room temperature. Most often, the tap does not satisfy the first requirement, therefore, before using it, they defend it or add a few granules of citric acid or a couple of drops of apple cider vinegar per 10 liters. You can water the gerbera with melt or rainwater.

    Top dressing is applied only during the period of active vegetation. From the beginning of spring to the end of November, the plant is fertilized every 1.5–2 weeks. Indoor Gerbera does not like natural organic matter. For her, purchased complex fertilizers (Master, Uniflor, Florovit, Agricola) are more suitable. At the same time, the concentration of the agent in the solution is reduced by half compared with the recommended by the manufacturer. Pay attention to the composition. Immediately after leaving the dormant period, plants need nitrogen more, and from the moment buds are formed, they need potassium.

    Abundant flowering takes a lot of effort from the gerbera, so complex regular feeding is mandatory

    Still room gerberas absolutely need iron. Its deficit in the soil is indicated by pale yellow spots spreading on the leaves, indicating the development of chlorosis. You can use the preparations Micro-Fe, Ferovit. A folk remedy - rusty nails buried in a pot - works no worse.

    Fertilizers with iron content - effective prevention of chlorosis

    The key to the abundant flowering of a room gerbera is proper lighting. As a rule, in captivity it begins in late summer and lasts until November-December. You can "hold out" before the New Year, providing the flower with additional illumination, but in this case the gerbera will "rest" until the next July-August.

    If you do not let the gerbera "rest" in the winter, the flowering period will last, but such a plant will live no more than two years

    Most often, it does not bloom if it is transplanted into a pot not sized (the roots take time to develop the surrounding space, there is simply not enough strength for everything else) and if the gardener is too passionate about nitrogen-containing fertilizers (the gerbera is actively increasing its green mass to the detriment of bud formation).

    The gerbera does not need a special forming pruning. The only thing that is required from the grower is to timely remove drying inflorescences and leaves, cutting or breaking them. Otherwise, the development of rot, which can destroy the entire plant, is very likely.

    Gerbera, on which there are no dried leaves and inflorescences, looks much more neat and elegant

    Video: Indoor Flower Care Tips

    Common Care Mistakes

    Often, the reason for the deterioration of the appearance of the gerbera is the mistakes made by the grower in the care. As a rule, if you notice his reaction in time, this is not critical for the plant. His condition normalizes by itself, after the grower “corrects” and normalizes the conditions of detention.

    Table: what the gerbera looks like, which is improperly looked after

    External manifestationsPossible reasons
    Yellowing leavesErrors during watering - it can be either too abundant or too scarce. Also, the appearance of yellowness provokes too cold water and its drops falling on the leaves
    Leaning, losing tone leavesMoisture deficiency (dry soil, low humidity). Especially if the street is hot
    Turning petals, fading and darkening leavesLack of light
    Drying leavesNutrient deficiency in soil, unsuitable substrate (acidic or alkaline)
    Yellowish beige dry spots on leavesSunburns due to drops of water turning into “lenses” that focus on the rays when watering or spraying leaves
    Lack of floweringExcessively long daylight hours or an excess of nitrogen in the soil. Another possible reason is a transplant into a pot “not in height”
    “Wet” and blackening stem baseThe development of root rot is provoked by overmoistening of the soil in combination with an air temperature that is too low for the gerbera

    Many problems with gerbera are caused by improper care or inappropriate conditions of detention

    Diseases, pests and their control

    Gerbera, contained in optimal or close conditions, receiving proper care, rarely suffers from diseases and pests. Есть и иные профилактические меры, которые могут свести риск заражения к минимуму:

    • free, without crowding, placing flower pots on the windowsill;
    • обязательный «карантин» в течение 2–3 недель для всех приобретённых экземпляров;
    • стерилизация грунта, горшков и любых инструментов, используемых при уходе за комнатными растениями;
    • регулярное проветривание помещения, поддержание влажности воздуха на требуемом уровне;
    • своевременное удаление старых высохших листьев, отцвётших соцветий, стирание пыли с растений;
    • внимательный осмотр цветов хотя бы раз в неделю и немедленное удаление с подоконника экземпляров с малейшими подозрительными признаками;
    • периодическая замена воды для полива бледно-розовым раствором перманганата калия.

    Таблица: симптомы поражения комнатной герберы заболеваниями и вредителями, меры борьбы с ними

    Disease or pestВнешние проявленияControl measures
    Powdery mildewРасплывчатые пятна серовато-белого налёта на листьях и стеблях, напоминающие просыпанную муку. Постепенно они «уплотняются» и буреютНародные средства (используются, если заболевание замечено вовремя или для профилактики): раствор кальцинированной соды или сухой горчицы (50 г на 10 л воды), разведённый водой 1:10 кефир или сыворотка с добавлением йода (капля на литр), настой луковой шелухи. Герберы обрабатывают 2–3 раза с интервалом 3–4 дня.

    Меры борьбы: оборвать все поражённые листья, заменить верхние 2–3 см почвы в горшке, обработать фунгицидами (Топаз, Акробат-МЦ, Витарос, Превикур) согласно инструкции производителя

    Gray rot«Мокнущие» коричневатые пятна на листьях и стеблях, постепенно затягивающиеся сплошным слоем «пушистого» налёта пепельного цвета. Ткани в этих местах размягчаются, гниютПрофилактика: внесение в грунт при пересадке гранул препарата Заслон, Барьер. Народные средства в борьбе с заболеванием эффекта не дают.

    Меры борьбы: сократить полив до необходимого минимума, вырезать все поражённые ткани, присыпать «раны» толчёным мелом или порошком из активированного угля, дважды с интервалом 12–14 дней обработать цветок Фундазолом или Топсином-М

    Late blightМелкие коричневые с фиолетовым отливом пятна, постепенно разрастающиеся и меняющие цвет на чёрный. Поражённые части растения деформируются, гниют. Страдает и корневая система — цветок можно практически без усилий извлечь из почвыПрофилактика: протравливание корней в течение 15 минут в растворе фунгицида биологического происхождения (Алирин-Б, Ридомил-Голд) при пересадке, еженедельное опрыскивание почвы настоем чесночных стрелок или кашицы из зубчиков.

    Меры борьбы: удалить все пострадавшие ткани, обработать «раны», опрыскать растение и грунт Фитоспорином-М, Фундазолом. В особо тяжёлых случаях цветок остаётся только выбросить. Посадочный материал для размножения брать от него настоятельно не рекомендуется

    FusariumУсыхающие и истончающиеся основания стеблей, чёрные кольца на срезе, желтоватые «водянистые» пятна на теряющих тонус листьях, налёт белесой или розоватой плесени на поражённых частях растенияПрофилактика: периодическая замена воды для полива бледно-розовым раствором перманганата калия, настоем древесной золы или коллоидной серы; внесение в почву гранул Триходермина, Глиокладина и протравливание растений при пересадке в растворе Агата-25К, Гамаира, Скора, Максима.

    Меры борьбы: вылечить фитофтороз современными средствами невозможно, как и заметить его развитие на ранней стадии. Можно попытаться спасти растение, взяв от него черенки, только обязательно следите, чтобы срезы были чистыми

    ShieldОкруглые наросты бежевого или коричневого цвета на листьях и стеблях, постепенно увеличивающиеся в объёме, красновато-жёлтые пятна вокруг них. В особо тяжёлых случаях — чернеющий субстрат в горшкеПрофилактика: опрыскивание почвы настоем луковых или чесночных стрелок, молотого красного перца, 20%-м раствором этилового спирта.

    Меры борьбы: удалить видимых щитовок, смазав их панцири керосином, скипидаром, машинным маслом и подождав 2–3 часа, протереть листья пеной хозяйственного или зелёного калийного мыла, обработать цветок Актарой, Алатаром, Фуфаноном, Фосбецидом, Актелликом

    AphidEntire colonies of small insects on young leaves, buds, diseased tissues are dotted with small beige dots that are clearly visible in light. Parts of a plant attacked by aphids are deformed, dryPrevention: flower treatment with any sharply smelling infusions (herbs, tomato tops, lemon peel, wormwood, celandine, tobacco crumbs, and so on).

    Control measures: at the early stages - apply the same infusions, reducing the intervals between procedures from 7-10 days to 6-8 hours, in the absence of effect - use any general-acting insecticides - Mospilan, Tanrek, Admiral, Inta-Vir, Iskra-Bio

    Spider miteThin, almost transparent filaments surrounding the plant, blurry yellowish spots on the affected tissues. It is almost impossible to see the pests themselves with the naked eyePrevention: spraying plants and soil in a pot with infusion of onion or garlic gruel, a decoction of cyclamen tubers, weekly irradiation of leaves with a quartz lamp.

    Control measures: use acaricides - Fitoverm, Neoron, Vertimek, Akarin, Apollo. For each of the 3-4 treatments, a new drug is taken to prevent the pest from developing immunity. The interval between procedures ranges from 3-5 days to 10-12 days. The hotter the street, the faster the spider mites multiply

    WhiteflySmall whitish insects resembling moths flutter from the plant at any, even the lightest touch. Leaves turn yellow, then become almost transparentPrevention: regular cultivation of the topsoil in the pot, the use of home-made traps (pieces of cardboard, greased with honey, petroleum jelly, a long-drying glue) or adhesive tape for catching flies, the inclusion of a fumigator near the plants.

    Control measures: spray flowers with infusion of yarrow, wormwood, dandelion leaves, tobacco chips, in the absence of effect - treat the plants and spill the soil with Actara, Actellik, Confidor-Maxi

    What does a gerbera struck by pests or diseases look like - photo

    Powdery mildew on the leaves seems to be a harmless coating that is easy to erase, but in fact it is a dangerous disease

    If you are affected by gray rot, first of all, you need to cut off all the affected tissue, capturing a few more healthy-looking

    Blight affects all parts of the plant

    It is almost impossible to notice the development of fusarium at an early stage.

    Folk remedies in the fight against scale insects are ineffective - the pest reliably protects the durable shell

    Aphids - one of the most "omnivorous" pests of indoor plants

    The spider mite is not an insect, therefore, special drugs - acaricides are used to combat it

    Whitefly is for some reason very indifferent to yellow, this is its addiction used in the manufacture of home-made traps

    Flower propagation methods

    Gerbera willingly propagates in captivity, both vegetatively and generatively. But the latter does not guarantee the preservation of dwarfism of plants, terry petals, their shade and other varietal characters.

    Bush division

    The easiest way to get a new gerbera. Suitable only for absolutely healthy plants from the age of two years. Dividing is carried out in the process of transplantation so that on each part 2-3 growth points remain. Before that, the roots are soaked for 2-3 hours to clear from the ground, then, if possible, they are untwisted by hands, using scissors or a knife only where this cannot be done. All made slices sprinkled with crushed chalk, activated carbon, cinnamon.

    The division of the bush allows you to guarantee the preservation of signs, but this method is not suitable for all plants

    The plants thus obtained are transplanted into small pots filled with a substrate suitable for adult gerberas, taken care of as usual. When transplanting, care must be taken not to deepen the growth points. It takes about six months to root, flowering can be expected 10-12 months after transplantation.

    You should not divide one plant into too many parts, each should have 2-3 growth buds

    Seed germination

    A fairly complex, time-consuming method that does not guarantee success. Seeds can be purchased or collected independently. Those who are already more than eight months old, it makes no sense to plant. Good germination (more than 50%) persists for six months. New specimens will bloom only after two years. The optimal time for planting seeds is from January to March.

    They are sown, not buried, in a mixture of sand and peat chips, which must be well moistened before planting. Sprinkle with a thin layer of fine sand. Then the containers are covered with glass or film and until emergence (usually it takes 8-10 days) is kept in a warm dark place, aired daily to get rid of the accumulating condensate.

    Fresh gerbera seeds give sprouts rather quickly and amicably

    Emerging seedlings are grown in the light at a temperature of 18–20 ° C, protecting from direct sunlight. In the phase of the second real sheet, they are dived, sitting in small plastic cups filled with the same soil. A drainage layer is mandatory at the bottom. In this case, you should try to damage the roots as little as possible. When 4-5 leaves appear, gerberas are transplanted into pots, about 10 cm in diameter, in a substrate suitable for adult plants. Then take care, as usual.

    Growing gerbera from seeds is a rather lengthy and time-consuming process, the result of which is completely impossible to predict

    Video: growing gerberas from seeds

    Cuttings

    It does not always give the desired effect; cuttings often rot. But you can try. Part of the stem about 10 cm long with 2-3 leaves is obliquely cut from the plant. Rooted cuttings in the sand, perlite or vermiculite, covering the tank on top of plastic bags or glass caps. They are provided with high humidity, a temperature of 25–27 ° С, and, if possible, lower heating. When the stalk forms a new leaf, it can be transplanted, like an adult plant.

    Cutting gerbera does not always lead to the desired result

    Gardeners reviews

    For gerbera, overdry is better than overflow. More likely to survive and still please flowering.

    Laluna

    Yesterday I transplanted a gerbera at my own peril and risk. I did not dare to do this before, as I read that the plant should be given a couple of days to adapt. I did this: I took the pot a little more than the previous one, poured a decent layer of expanded clay drainage, used the universal flower Terra Vita as soil (I somehow got used to it already). Gently pulled a gerbera from an old pot. The root system upset me a little, well, it’s understandable, it’s not cyclamen after all: a sponge of small roots is located in the upper half of the earthen coma, and at the bottom there were several decent thick roots. She shook the ground on the sides, from the bottom she simply gutted a lump of earth so that as little transport soil as possible remained. Anyway, there were almost no roots in it. I didn’t water it, because the old soil was quite wet (this also became the reason why I gutted a lump of land from below, because I watered it even on the day of purchase). Returned to its original place. The day has passed, while we are invigorating for now. Young leaves immediately started to grow.

    Bagirka

    I think Dutch gerberas are thrown out after flowering. And if grown from seeds, and after flowering, provide a dormant period, then it will continue to grow further. When grown in a clean clay pot, the roots receive air, when irrigated, the clay absorbs some of the moisture, and then gives it away, but if it’s cool in the room, when grown in such a pot, the gerbera roots can become cold, and it’s capricious in this regard. The pot should be proportionate to the root and leaf rosette, that is, the edges of the leaves should protrude outside the pot.

    Asio otus

    My gerbera has been living for three years. She hibernates on the windowsill, drops the leaves, but I water it a little, and by spring new ones begin to appear. So the main thing is not to flood.

    Olga2162

    I have a gerbera at work. Faded. I cut a little dried leaves, now they climb new, green and strong. The window is northern, stands under the backlight (phytolamp). While alive. Now, after flowering, I feed Uniflor growth with a half solution of fertilizer.

    Irisha

    Gerbera is better not to transplant, but to transship. It is possible at any time, even during flowering. It is advisable to take the pot 2-4 cm in diameter larger than the previous one. She loves the sun, but only as long as the temperature does not exceed 24 ° C. You can not process anything. Although spraying with a stimulant will not hurt. A weak color of the flowers and stretching of the stems indicates malnutrition. It is better to feed complex fertilizers for flowering plants to trusted companies.

    Aleksey

    My gerbera is already eight months old. I did not observe any difficulties with care. Blossomed for six months in a row. The sun does not like - leaves begin to turn yellow. It is necessary to water somewhere in a day. Needs daily spraying. My gerbera has already faded, I transplanted it into a slightly larger pot and put it on the street in the shade. So now you can’t recognize her!

    Katya 1980

    Gerbera, especially blooming, does not like too high temperatures, it is desirable that it is not higher than 20 ° C. The place for her should be the brightest, sunny. There is no shading on the east or west window. On the south window, shading may be needed only from mid-May, and then only in the hottest hours of the day (from about 10:30 to 14 hours). Irrigation at the gerbera is always quite plentiful, that is, the soil should be slightly moist always. But avoid flooding the plant. And for this you need good drainage in a pot. Spray the air around the plant periodically and feed it with any fertilizer for flowering indoor plants. Unfortunately, the gerbera is usually thrown away after flowering, although it can be planted in the garden.

    Natali

    Gerbera from seeds is not at all troublesome! I bought Jameson's gerbera seeds. A mixture of colors. Planted in May in one pot 10 pieces. Six have risen. Moreover, it was immediately visible "favorites." A month later, transplanted into small cups all but one. They grew in different ways - some quicker, some lagging behind. A month later, transplanted everyone into pots, except for the first - he sits in his own way! And here it is, honey, and bloomed! I deduced that for flowering they need, firstly, to increase the green mass, and, secondly, so that daylight hours become shorter. That is, August is the most for them! So I hope the rest will also catch up. The only catch is that it does not at all look like the one in the picture, but more like a pink daisy. Although I regularly feed her, and her special fellow! And she loves to drink! Maybe it's hot for them? In the room, in summer, it reaches 30 ° C ...

    Sofy

    Gerbera is a very bright and effective plant grown by many gardeners both in the open ground and at home. It is appreciated for the duration and abundance of flowering. It is not so difficult to create optimal or close conditions for it. Culture is also not particularly demanding in care. The variety of varieties allows you to collect on the windowsill a whole collection that will invariably delight the eye.

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