How to grow a rose from a handle: practice tips
The rose blooming delicate buds attracts the attention of even the most indifferent contemplator of garden beauties. It is impossible to pass by this aristocrat without saying: “Ah, what a delight!” Many people prefer to receive a wonderful bouquet of roses as a gift, while others like to grow them on their site. Some of the rose growers have repeatedly tried to independently grow their favorite variety from a cuttings taken from friends or from a bouquet presented for the holiday. Sometimes one or another sort of rose, its aroma, color of the flower, and the shape of the bush may be so fond of that it is worth trying to propagate it yourself. Moreover, this is true if the name of the variety is unknown, or it is difficult to find on sale.
Rose propagation options
When roses are propagated, two methods are used - seed and vegetative. To preserve the characteristics of the parental variety, vegetative propagation is necessary, which includes budding and cuttings. This produces root copies of roses. Although the most common option for obtaining the desired rose specimen by vegetative propagation is budding or vaccination of the desired variety on the stock, today we will consider cuttings as the most affordable option to plant your favorite flower.
Cuttings - this is one of the methods of vegetative propagation of plants, which allows you to save all the features of the mother variety and includes green cuttings and propagation by lignified cuttings.
The author of the photo is collector Elena Kuchina
Species that are easy to propagate by cuttings at home
Before proceeding to cuttings of the variety you like, determine what type it belongs to. If this plant is low, with a small leaf and small but abundant flowers covering the bush, then most likely you have a miniature or ground cover rose. According to the experience of the curator of the rose collection, a researcher at the Main Botanical Garden. N.V. Tsitsina Bumbeeva L.I. miniature roses along with polyanthus are best amenable to cuttings. The situation is more complicated with climbing large-flowered and floribunda roses, and tea-hybrid and park cuttings are very poorly cut. That is why it is far from always possible to grow a rose from the cuttings of a purchased rose.
There is still an opinion that light varieties propagate by cuttings better than dark ones.Recent entries In April, I process roses so that no pests encroach on my beauties
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How to grow a rose from a cuttings: step-by-step inturctions
- For open ground, the optimal timing for grafting is June. During this period, cut with a clean and sharp secateurs from your favorite variety of semi-lignified cuttings of the current year about 7 cm long. It is better to cut the cuttings in the early morning when the plant is saturated with moisture. Take cuttings from healthy branches located in the lower part of the bush in partial shade. Make the upper section dull above the kidney by about 0.5–1 cm, and the lower one under the kidney, observing an angle of 45 degrees.
If you isolate a small area of the shoot where the stem will be taken with a material or dark film a couple of weeks before the cut, this will improve root formation. This technique is called etiolation.
Observe a 45 degree angle
- On the cuttings, for better development and the course of metabolic processes and nutrition, leave one shoot with leaves. To reduce moisture evaporation, shorten part of the top sheet.
The prepared material must be protected from drying out: during a break in work, place the cuttings in a plastic bag and put in the refrigerator. If you harvest cuttings for propagation from autumn, then cut them longer - up to 15 cm and store until spring in wet sand at a temperature of about 3 degrees. In this case, all the leaves need to be cut off.
- Determine the place for rooting cuttings in your area. It is good if it is light enough, but sheltered from direct sunlight. At this point, prepare a bed with a wet substrate. As a substrate, land with sand in a ratio of 2: 1, or peat with sand in a ratio of 1: 1 can act. Take clean, river sand and pour it on top of the sheet earth with a layer of 3-4 cm. The soil moisture should not be lower than 70–90% at a temperature of 22 degrees. To retain moisture, you can add hydrogel to the soil mixture.
Perlite, a silicon-containing material in granules, is also suitable for planting cuttings. Its main advantage is the absence of pathogens that can nullify all efforts to propagate roses by cuttings. In addition, it is breathable and retains moisture well.
- Before sending the cuttings to the substrate for rooting, treat them with a stimulant. The Zircon preparation is suitable for this, which is taken in the proportion of 1 ampoule per 2 liters of water. Cuttings are immersed in an aqueous solution for 1/3 for 12 hours. For better root formation, dip the lower cut into the Cornenvin powder or another root stimulant and start planting right away.
Kornevin is perhaps the cheapest rooting option
- Plant the cuttings obliquely at an angle of 45 degrees, with a deepening of the lower kidney by 1.5–2 cm. To ensure the necessary nutrition area, observe the distance between the cuttings in a row, which should be at least 3 cm, and between the rows - at least 5 cm.
Harvested from autumn cuttings that are cut longer, unlike summer ones, are planted in the spring and buried not by one, but by several buds.
- Seal the plantings in a substrate, pressing soil around the cuttings. For optimal conditions, cover the bed with cuttings with foil.
Root a stalk in a greenhouse
- In activities for the further rooting of cuttings, include regular spraying and ventilation. It must be remembered that the leaves of the cuttings should always be moist, and the frequency of ventilation should be increased with the appearance of the first growths.
- Protect the planting of cuttings from direct sunlight, shade them with a shield or material stretched over the supports. You can take an old umbrella for these purposes.
At least two weeks must pass before the first roots appear on the lower cut. Cool weather can significantly slow down this process, because the best temperature for root formation ranges from 20-24 degrees. When the first roots are formed, spraying should be carried out less often so as not to provoke the formation of rot. After rooting, but not earlier than a month later, the cover film can be removed.
Using root will speed up the result
The root system of young roses obtained from cuttings is still very weak for planting them in a permanent place in the garden. The probability of wintering is very low. It is possible to fully grow, form a rose bush only in the second year. Therefore, rooted cuttings are best hidden in the winter in a cool, frost-free room, and planted in the ground in spring.
After landing care
Rose seedlings grown from cuttings of the house are quite demanding on soil fertility, fertilizing and fertilizing, and are also more prone to the onset of diseases and pests than vaccinated specimens. In the first year after planting, limit flowering or do not let it bloom at all - this will save energy for the growth and development of shoots and roots. In spring, add nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium nitrate, or other complex fertilizers with nitrogen), and in August, feed with fertilizers with a predominance of phosphorus and potassium.
In subsequent years, when roses will bloom, they will need a larger number of top dressings, namely:
- after spring pruning, feed 30 g of fertilizer per square meter with ammonium nitrate (or dissolve 30 g in 7 l of water if you use the fertilizer in liquid form).
- spend the second dressing two weeks after the first with the same fertilizers;
- the third top dressing is necessary for rose seedlings during budding - take a complex fertilizer, such as "Kemira Lux" or "Fertika" for roses (30–40 g / sq. m).
- roses are very fond of mullein infusion, which can also help with spraying leaves from fungal diseases and powdery mildew. The fourth feeding, consisting of mullein, is carried out during the flowering period.
Mullein infusion is an excellent nitrogen-potassium fertilizer and is prepared as follows: take one part of the manure and dilute it with 10 parts of water. Let it brew for two days.
- in August, during the period of repeated flowering, fertilize for the fifth time. Reduce the nitrogen content, the fertilizer should contain more phosphorus and potassium.
- carry out the last top dressing no later than the end of September with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, completely eliminating nitrogen.
Other agricultural activities will be aimed at the formation of seedlings by pinching strong shoots, watering and loosening the soil. And of course, do not forget about autumn pruning and winter shelter!