How to get rid of reeds in the area: effective methods of weed control
3 years unsuccessfully fighting with reeds in his area. The site is elevated, leveled - 70 cm ASG and separate bulk ridges are made. Tell me, please, with what herbicide can it be destroyed and during what period to act to get rid of it?
Your problem is familiar to many gardeners, gardeners and farmers. You are not alone in fighting reeds, and believe me, this is a very laborious and tedious task. If you want to remove an uninvited weed from your possessions, you need to treat this with all responsibility and ... imagination!
Let's see what actually grows on your site and why it appeared there.
Many gardening masters are often called reeds common reed (Phragmites communis), or southern (Ph.australis). This is a perennial long-rhizome cereal with hard gray-green leaves and forming large thickets. The height of the shoots is 15–200 cm, in the fall they are crowned with fluffy inflorescences, panicles. This plant is not demanding on soils and grows mainly in lowland marshy areas, but can also settle in more arid places, although it does not grow so aggressively there. The rhizomes of this plant are so powerful and durable that they can even pierce the waterproofing of a garden pond.
This is what Phragmites communis looks like
Unlike reeds, the reed Lake (Scirpus lacustris) is not so aggressive, has short, thick creeping rhizomes and shoots 100-120 cm tall and sparse leaves. Brown inflorescences collected in panicles appear on the tops of the plant. It also grows in shallow water, silty moist soil. It gives self-seeding and grows greatly.
Scirpus lacustris, or reed
Why is it so difficult to fight against Reed ordinary, which is popularly called reed? It is all about its roots. They are very long - up to 2 meters and branched, penetrate deep into the soil. In this case, the plant is extremely aggressive.
To understand why this cereal appeared on your site, think about whether your neighbors have reed beds, are they struggling with it? Maybe it grows in natural conditions very close to you - somewhere nearby is a floodplain of a river, swamp, lake? Is your garden located in a lowland formed by the surrounding landscape?Recent entries In April, I process roses so that no pests encroach on my beauties
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You wrote that the site was raised and bulk ridges were made. This is very good, it will go to the piggy bank of the fight against malicious weed. But this measure may not always help. The fact is that even if you raised the soil level in your garden, the groundwater can still be located very close to the surface, and this will be enough to make the treacherous cereal feel at ease. So let's block his oxygen and show all the perseverance and imagination for this.
Whatever the people invented to take the enemy out of their garden: they burned, poisoned, mowed, dug, drowned, and even stamped horses. And, you know, all means are good. It only happens that one of the methods came up to someone and gave the result, while the other didn’t. Therefore, only empirically can you understand what can actually help you get rid of adversity. The main control measures can be: treatment with herbicides, depletion of rhizomes, isolation and the fight against excessive moisture in the area.
Herbicides and other “chemistry” for reeds
You wanted to know which herbicide can destroy reeds. Mostly gardeners use the familiar Roundup, a continuous action herbicide, to control annual and perennial dicotyledonous and cereal weeds based on glyphosate, a substance that blocks the synthesis of amino acids in plant cells.
Be sure to use protective equipment when working with Roundup!
According to the manufacturer, he must completely destroy both the aboveground and underground parts of the weeds in direct contact with leaves or shoots. But keep in mind - it is toxic, including to humans, therefore, observe safety precautions and use protection, such as a respirator, gloves, glasses, overalls, headgear. Try a double treatment with this product in dry warm weather - 15–25 degrees. Spend the first on young plants, 10-15 cm high, and the second (if the first does not fully help) in July, in the heading phase. The final death of the weed should occur in 20 days. It is believed that the use of this herbicide in spring on vegetative weeds during the period of active growth is not as effective as summer spraying, when all the processes of supplying the plant with nutrients go down to the roots. But the main thing for us is to destroy the roots. Calculate the dosage according to the manufacturer's instructions on the packaging.
Herbicides alternative to Roundup - Tornado, Hurricane Forte, GlyphAlt - also based on glyphosate.
There is one small trick that skilled gardeners use when treating the site with chemicals. First, they mow the cereal to a height of about 5 centimeters, then they draw a solution of the herbicide into the syringe and inject it from above into the trunk of the plant, where a section was formed. So the liquid penetrates to the roots faster. Some instead of Roundup use ordinary kerosene for these purposes.
In addition to etching with chemistry, chopping rhizomes and deep digging of the soil will help you in the fight against pest. In late spring or early summer, plow the soil under the weed to a depth of about 30–40 cm and leave it. Wait three weeks for the rhizomes to dry, then you need to remove them from the ground with a rake or manually, and again dig the site deep. This treatment is carried out 4 times, constantly "combing out" the remains of the roots. This technique can be repeated for the winter: in November, dig the soil with reeds and leave it in this form until spring - some of the rhizomes will freeze.
Here's what other gardeners came up with: mow the entire plot overgrown with harmful cereals, and then immediately water it well. They say that the cereal does not tolerate when water gets inside the stem - it begins to rot from the inside.
What additional measures can be taken at the site
- To prevent the weed from bothering you, deprive it of the ability to propagate: do not allow self-seeding, mow, mow and mow again! Avoid a situation in which reeds or reeds grow next to your neighbors and let their roots into your territory. Isolate their penetration with a sheet of iron or other durable material dug into the soil to a depth of at least a meter around the entire perimeter of the problem area.
- Fight stagnation of water, lower the level of groundwater by drainage ditches and drains. You can organize in your garden a small drainage pond for this purpose at the lowest point of the site.
- Check the acidity of the soil. An indicator of acidic soil can be plants. If you have a lot of bug, anemone, cat's foot, sedge hanging, sorrel, veronica, plantain, mint or horsetail, you have acidic soil in your garden. Raise its pH level by liming, adding ash or dolomite flour. Regularly cultivate the site, do not let it stagnate: change the soil, add sand, fill it with cultivated plants with good root formation, which will help to “strangle” the weed. It may happen that without deep digging of rhizomes it will not be possible to remove it. You will have to dig at a depth of not less than a meter and manually clear the soil of weed. Well, this is an emergency.
All of the above activities with a high probability and in the complex will help to remove malicious cereals in their area. We wish you success in hard work, and be sure to share your result with us later!