Growing pears in Memory of Yakovlev, Autumn Yakovlev and Yakovlev's Favorite
Pears of autumn varieties are always in demand. One of the best for the middle strip, many gardeners and experts consider the variety of Memory Yakovlev. In addition, there are varieties of Autumn Yakovleva and Yakovleva's Favorite. What are these pears, how are they similar, and how do they differ. Which variety is better to choose for planting in the garden and in the farm garden. We will help you figure it out.
Descriptions and characteristics of varieties of pears in memory of Yakovlev, Autumn Yakovlev and Yakovlev's Favorite
Obtained by crossing the old (1909) Far Eastern variety Thoma with an even older (1847) French variety Olivier de Serre. Winter resistance, scab resistance, and early maturity were obtained from the first grade. From the French parent, the variety received excellent taste and transportability of the fruit, as well as the firm attachment of the fruit to the stem.
Table: Comparative Characteristics of Pear Varieties
|Variety Characteristics||In memory of Yakovlev||Autumn Yakovleva||Yakovlev's favorite|
|Originator||All-Russian Research Institute of Genetics and Selection of Fruit Plants|
|Year of inclusion in the State Register||1985||1974||1965|
|Tolerance Regions||Central, Central Black Earth, Volga-Vyatka and Middle Volga||Central Black Earth and Lower Volga||Central, Central Black Earth and Middle Volga|
|Tree characteristic||Short, fast-growing, with a compact, round, dense crown. Fruiting on simple and complex gloves. High shoot-forming ability.||Large and fast-growing with a spreading, wide-pyramidal, slightly drooping, rare crown. According to some sources, without the use of forming pruning, a tree can grow up to 15 meters. Fruiting mainly on gloves and fruit twigs.||Tall, strong growing with a wide pyramidal and sparse crown. Fruiting on gloves and spears.|
|Autonomy||High||According to descriptions of some sources, the variety is partially self-fertile. Among pollinators there are pears of varieties Avgustovskaya and Lada.||Partial Pollinator - Duchess pear summer|
|Early maturity||3-4 years after planting||5th year after planting||5-6th year after planting|
|Winter hardiness||Above the average level, according to VNIISPK (All-Russian Research Institute for Selection of Fruit Crops) - high||Satisfactory||Above average, according to VNIISPK - high|
|Drought tolerance||Not enough||Pretty high||N / a|
|Scab Resistance||Not affected||Low||Low|
|Description of the fetus||The shape of the fruit is broad-pear-shaped, slightly ribbed. The average weight is 125 grams. The skin color is light yellow with a faint orange tan. The surface of the fetus is shiny, there are few subcutaneous points. Fruits keep well on branches, do not crumble. The pulp is creamy, juicy, semi-oily, sweet with a slight acidity and a pleasant aroma.||Fruits have an irregular rounded rhombic shape, ribbed. The average weight of the fruit is 130-150 grams. At the time of removable maturity, the color of the fruit is green with a slight tan. During the period of consumer maturity, the color becomes greenish-yellow, with a blurred blush and large, brown subcutaneous dots. The pulp is dense, semi-oily, juicy, tender. The taste is sweet and sour with a muscat flavor and a faint aroma.||Fruits are round-rhombic, broad-pear-shaped, medium in size, weighing 130-190 grams. At the time of removable maturity, the color of the fruit is greenish-yellow with a slight blush. The skin is medium thick, dull, dense. The flesh is creamy, coarse-grained, coarse. It has medium juiciness and a mediocre sweet taste.|
|Tasting rating||N / a||4.9 points||N / a|
|Consumption period||Early fall||Autumn||Autumn|
|Appointment||Universal||Universal||Table variety, according to VNIISPK - universal|
|Transportability||High||High||N / a|
|Productivity||220 c / ha||40 kg per tree||20 kg from a tree at the age of seven|
The shape of the fruit of the pear of Memory of Yakovlev is broad-pear-shaped, slightly ribbed
The disadvantages of the variety are a certain unevenness of the fruits and the presence of stony cells with a large yield.
Video: a brief overview of the pear of the variety Pamyat Yakovlev
Pear Autumn Yakovleva
Sometimes this variety is called Late Yakovleva or Winter Yakovleva, but this is incorrect. The variety was obtained by crossing the Belgian pear Bergamot Esperin and the domestic pear Daughter Blankova. Reliable information about these varieties is not enough, this fact is given here due to the fact that the variety Lyubimitsa Yakovleva considered below was also obtained by crossing these varieties. In many ways, these two varieties are similar and have nothing to do with the variety of Memory of Yakovlev except their authors.
The fruits of the Autumn Yakovlev pear have an irregular, rounded-rhombic shape
The disadvantages of the variety are tall, insufficient frost resistance and poor resistance to scab.
Pear Favorite Yakovlev
Initially, this variety was widespread in amateur and industrial gardens, but quickly began to lose its importance.
Yakovlev's favorite begins to bear fruit for 5-6 years after planting
The disadvantages of the variety are: mediocre taste of fruits, susceptibility to scab, tallness.
How to plant pears of varieties of Memory Yakovlev, Yakovlev's favorite, Autumn Yakovlev
Creating a favorable microclimate is the first thing that a gardener should take care of when thinking about planting a pear on a site. Only in this case, his work will bring the expected result. A pear loves sunny, well-ventilated areas with deep groundwater. In the lowlands, on wetlands, she will be sick and, most likely, will die. Northern cold winds will not bring benefits to the pear - it is advisable to have protection from them in the form of thick trees, a fence or the wall of the house located from the north or northeast of the proposed tree landing site. Moreover, the pear should be planted at a certain distance from the fence or trees so that it does not appear in the shade. If there is no such protection, then for the first time it should be built independently. To do this, put together wooden panels and paint them white with a lime mortar. Such shields will not only protect the tree from strong winds, but also, reflecting the sun's rays, will additionally illuminate and heat the young plant. For the normal development and fruiting of a pear, loose soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction is needed. Alkaline soils contribute to the development of diseases and are unacceptable for pears.
How far are pears planted?
During group planting of pears of varieties Lyubimitsa Yakovleva and Autumn Yakovleva, we must not forget about their tallness. Therefore, such pears are planted with an interval of 4-4.5 meters, observing the distance between the rows within 5-6 meters. For a weak-growing pear in memory of Yakovlev, a distance of about three meters is sufficient in the row, and four meters are left between the rows.
The distance between tall pears should be at least 4–4.5 m, and between rows - 5–6 m
When a pear is planted
In the regions where the described pear varieties are zoned, early spring is an acceptable planting date. Choose a time when the plants have not yet begun to grow, sap flow has not yet begun, but the soil has dried up and began to warm up. Usually the duration of this period is short - about two weeks. But if you have time to plant a sapling at this time, then it will take root perfectly, start growing and grow stronger by the fall, will gain strength for its first wintering.
When do you get a seedling and what do you pay attention to
In principle, a seedling can be bought in the spring, but in the fall the choice of high-quality planting material is much wider. This is due to the fact that nurseries traditionally produce a massive digging of seedlings in the fall, and those plants that have remained unrealized are left in storage until spring. Therefore, it is possible that in the spring seedlings of the desired variety will not be on sale or poor quality plants will remain.
A quality seedling is understood to have a well-developed root system and smooth bark without damage and cracks. It is better if the seedling is one or two years old. Three years old and older take root worse, later they start to grow and later bear fruiting.
Pear seedlings must have a well-developed root system
Seedlings with a closed root system can be 3-5 years old, and they can also be planted at any time - from April to October.
Saplings bought in the autumn are dug into the ground until spring - so they are well preserved. To do this, in the garden you need to dig an oblong hole with a depth of about thirty centimeters. Pour a small layer of sand into it, on which the plant is laid with its roots down, and the top is placed on the edge of the pit. Previously, the roots are dipped in a solution of mullein with clay. Then the roots are covered with sand and watered with water, and with the onset of cold weather, the pit is completely filled with earth. You can save the seedling in the basement, if any. You only need to be sure that the air temperature there will be in the range 0-5 ° C.
Saplings bought in the autumn are dug in the ground until spring - so they are well preserved
Step-by-step instructions for planting a pear
Regardless of the variety, the landing sequence is as follows:
- First you need to prepare a landing pit. Of course, to do it better in the fall - it is unlikely that in spring there will be suitable weather conditions for this 2-3 weeks before landing. So:
- Need to dig a hole. Its size is determined based on the fertility of the soil. The poorer the soil, the larger the pit. For ordinary loams, a pit diameter of 80 centimeters and a depth of 70-80 centimeters are suitable. On sandy soils make holes with a volume of 1-2 m3.
- In the presence of a fertile, humus-rich soil layer, it is laid aside for future use.
- To prevent stagnation of water on heavy soils, a drainage layer should be provided. To do this, rubble, expanded clay, and broken brick are poured at the bottom of the pit. The layer thickness is 10-15 centimeters. For sandy soils, drainage is replaced with a clay castle of the same thickness, which will serve to retain moisture in the root zone.
- After that, fill the hole to the top with a nutrient mixture, which is prepared from chernozem, peat, humus and sand, taken in equal proportions. And also 300-400 grams of superphosphate and 3-4 liters of wood ash are added to the mixture.
- For the winter, the pit should be covered with roofing material, film, slate, etc. This is done so that in the early spring there is no leaching of nutrients in melt water.
- In the spring, when the time comes for planting, they dig out a seedling (they take it out of the basement) and examine it. If everything is fine with him, the roots are soaked for several hours in water with the addition of Heteroauxin, Kornevin, Epin or similar root stimulants.
Before planting, the roots of pear seedlings are soaked for several hours in water
- Open the hole and in the center of it make a hole the size of the root system of the seedling. A small mound is formed in the hole, and ten to fifteen centimeters from the center drive a wooden stake 100-130 centimeters high above the ground.
- Lower the seedling on the knoll so that the root neck rests on the top, and the roots straighten on the slopes.
- They begin to backfill the roots, tamping the soil in layers.
- As a result, the root neck should be at the level of the soil - this is important.
- When the hole is full - tie the seedling to the peg with any elastic material. It is better to do this in the form of an “eight” so as not to squash the bark.
- A roller is formed around the circumference of the landing pit, which will retain water during irrigation. This is usually done with a plane cutter or chopper.
- Next, you need to abundantly water the young tree with water so that there are no air bubbles left in the soil and it is well adjacent to the roots.
Water the seedlings abundantly so that no air sinuses remain in the root zone
- When the surface of the trunk circle dries, it should be loosened and covered with a layer of mulch with a thickness of 5-8 centimeters. For these purposes, you can use hay, rotted sawdust, compost, spruce branches and other mulching materials.
After watering the seedling, the soil is loosened and mulched.
- The central conductor of the seedling is cut to a height of 60-80 centimeters, and the branches are shortened by 40-50%.
Features of cultivation and subtleties of care
Pears need conventional agricultural procedures: watering, top dressing, pruning. We note some features of these stages.
Drought tolerance, as indicated in the description of the variety, is not a strong point of the memory pear of Yakovlev and the other two varieties under consideration. Therefore, they will have to be watered regularly, with a frequency of 20-30 days. The first watering of the season is usually done before the pear blossoms, and the last in October. When conducting watering, you should adhere to some rules:
- The depth of soil moisture should be 25–35 centimeters.
- The tree trunk before irrigation is sprinkled with earth to prevent direct contact with water. So avoid rooting the neck of the neck.
- After watering, the soil should be loosened to provide oxygen to the roots.
- Mulching the soil of the trunk circle allows you to retain moisture longer and increase the interval between watering.
- You should periodically check the condition of the mulching layer - slugs and raspberries can accumulate in it. In this case, the mulch is removed, the pests are destroyed, the soil is dried. Mulching can be resumed at the next watering.
3-4 years after planting, the nutrient mixture in the planting pit will begin to deplete. And also by this time, fruiting begins at the pear of Memory of Yakovlev, which requires additional nutrition. Since then, top dressing will be needed annually.
- Organic fertilizers (compost, humus, peat) are applied in the spring for digging with an interval of 2-3 years. As a rule, 5-7 kilograms of fertilizer are used per square meter of the trunk circle.
- At the same time, but already annually, mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers are introduced (ammonium nitrate, urea, nitroammophoska, etc.). Their consumption is 20-30 g / m2.
- During the rapid growth of young shoots and fruits, mineral potash fertilizers (potassium sulfate, potassium monophosphate) are added. They are dissolved in water and used when watering the tree. Fertilizer consumption - 10-20 g / m2.
- Superphosphate is added for digging in the fall at the rate of 20-30 g / m2.
- In addition, in order to support the plant during fruit growth, it is fed two to three times with liquid organic infusions. To do this, put two liters of mullein or one liter of bird droppings in a barrel and fill it with a bucket of water. Leave in a warm place for 5-7 days for fermentation, after which it is filtered and used for feeding. A bucket of water with one liter of concentrate dissolved in it is poured onto one square meter of the trunk circle. Instead of mullein, you can also use nettles, weeds, any grass in the amount of 5-7 kilograms per bucket of water.
- In addition to basic fertilizers, micronutrients are required, so do not forget about complex mineral fertilizers. They are used according to the attached instructions.
How to prune a pear
There are four main types of pruning - shaping, regulating, supporting and sanitary. The rules for their implementation depend on the height of the tree, the shape and density of the crown. Varieties Autumn Yakovleva and Yakovleva’s Favorite are similar - both have a tall tree with a rare crown. Therefore, the description of the trim for these varieties can be combined.
The formation of the crown of a pear in memory of Yakovlev
Since the tree of this variety is small, we use for it the formation in the form of an improved bowl. This form contributes to good illumination of the internal volume of the crown and its ventilation. Facilitates tree care and harvesting. The step-by-step instruction of the forming crop looks like this:
- In the early spring, one to two years after planting, inspect a tree and select three to four strong branches on it, located at a distance of 15-20 centimeters from each other. At the same time, they should grow in different directions. These are future skeletal branches.
- Cut them to a length of 30-40 centimeters.
- All other branches are cut out completely.
- The central conductor is cut off over the base of the upper branch.
- After 1-2 years, they begin to form branches of the second order. To do this, on each skeletal branch, two shoots are selected located at a distance of 50-60 centimeters from each other and cut to a length of 40-50 centimeters.
- All other skeletal branches are removed.
- In the future, the crown of the tree will thicken significantly, which will require annual regulatory pruning, which is carried out in early spring by removing part of the shoots growing inside the crown. They do this within reasonable limits, since excessive pruning entails a slight decrease in yield.
The formation of the crown as an improved bowl contributes to a good illumination of the internal volume of the crown and its ventilation
Formation of crowns of pears Autumn Yakovleva and Yakovlev's Favorite
For these pears, in view of tallness, it is more logical to apply a sparse-tier formation of the crown. Performing it is somewhat more complicated than a cup-shaped one, but it is quite accessible to a novice gardener. To do this, carefully study the step-by-step instructions:
- In early spring, on the 2-3rd year after planting, you need to select the future skeletal branches of the first tier on the tree 2-3. For this, branches located with an interval of 15-20 centimeters are suitable, and the lower one should be at a height of about forty centimeters from the ground. These branches are cut to a length of 30-40 centimeters.
- The remaining branches are removed, and the central conductor is cut so that it is 20-30 centimeters higher than the skeletal branches.
- After 1-2 years above the branches of the first tier, the second tier of skeletal branches is formed according to the same principle.
- By that time, other branches had probably grown on the branches of the first tier. From them form second-order branches of 1-2 pieces on each skeletal branch, the rest are cut out. The distance between the branches of the second order should be within 50-60 centimeters and cut them to a length of 30-40 centimeters.
- The central conductor is again shortened so that it is 30-40 centimeters above the skeletal branches.
- After the next one or two years, they form the third and last tier of skeletal branches according to an already familiar algorithm.
- At the end, the central conductor is cut out above the base of the upper skeletal branch.
- Since the varieties under consideration are not prone to thickening the crown, they are unlikely to need regulatory pruning.
When sparse-tier formation of the crown should comply with the principle of subordination. It consists in the fact that the branches of the third tier should be shorter than the branches of the second tier, and those, in turn, are shorter than the branches of the first tier.
For pears of varieties Autumn Yakovleva and Yakovleva's Favorite, a sparse-tier crown formation is used
This pruning is necessary regardless of the pear variety and is aimed at maintaining a constant and high level of fruiting. This is achieved by the so-called minting of young shoots, which consists in shortening them by 5-10 centimeters. This prompts the appearance of additional overgrowing branches on which fruit buds are laid. This method is easily accessible to a beginner gardener. Subsequently, he will be able to master a more complex method, which consists in replacing fruit-bearing shoots with substitution shoots according to the type of grape formation.
Experienced gardeners use the method of replacing fruiting shoots with substitution shoots
Every autumn, regardless of the pear variety, dry, damaged and diseased branches are removed. If such a need arises, then sanitary pruning is repeated in early spring.
How to properly trim pears
All of the above types of cuts must be carried out in compliance with the general requirements:
- Hacksaws, secateurs, delimbers, knives must be sharpened before trimming.
- And also the cutting tool should be treated with a disinfectant, for example:
- 1% solution of copper sulfate;
- 3% hydrogen peroxide solution;
- 3% solution of potassium permanganate;
- alcohol, etc.
- After trimming, knots and hemp cannot be left. After drying, they will begin to rot and become a hotbed of fungal diseases, as well as a refuge for pests. When cutting branches, you should use the “on the ring” technique.
Cutting out branches entirely use the “ring” technique
- Все срезы, диаметр которых превышает десять миллиметров, нужно хорошо зачистить ножом и покрыть слоем садового вара.
Опытные садоводы рекомендуют избегать применения садовых варов на основе петролатума либо других продуктов нефтепереработки, так как это приносит вред растению. Существуют составы на основе природных компонентов (ланолин, пчелиный воск) — им и стоит отдать предпочтение.
Болезни и вредители — основные представители и меры борьбы
Наряду с выполнением основных агротехнических мероприятий, нужно помнить о том, что груши могут поражаться некоторыми болезнями и вредителями. Поэтому не стоит ожидать таких напастей, а вовремя проводить санитарные и профилактические работы.
Работы по профилактике заболеваний и вредителей в большинстве случаев помогают избежать заражений грибковыми болезнями и противостоять нашествию насекомых.
Таблица: виды профилактических работ в саду
|Виды работ||Способы и приёмы выполнения||Deadlines||What effect is achieved|
|Предзимняя уборка в саду. Собирают все опавшие листья, сорняки, ветки и т. п. Всё это сжигают, а полученную при этом золу сохраняют для дальнейшего использования в качестве удобрения.||October November||Уничтожение спор грибков, зимующих вредителей|
|Whitewashing trees||Разводят в воде гашёную известь, добавляют 3% медного купороса или бордоской смеси. Этим раствором белят стволы и скелетные ветви дерева. Можно для этих целей применять специальные садовые краски.||Предотвращение ожогов коры. Создание препятствия для насекомых-вредителей.|
|Перекопка приствольных кругов на штык лопаты. При этом переворачивают пласты земли с целью поднятия на поверхность насекомых, которые устраиваются на зимовку в верхних слоях почвы.||November||Зимующие насекомые, поднятые на поверхность, погибают от последующих морозов|
|Обработка медным купоросом||Проводят опрыскивание 3%-м раствором медного купороса кроны дерева и почвы приствольного круга||November, March||Профилактика грибков и вредителей|
|Обработка сильнодействующими пестицидами||Один раз в три года опрыскивают кроны деревьев ДНОКом. В остальные годы — Нитрафеном.||March|
|Installation of hunting belts||На стволы деревьев в 30—40 сантиметрах от поверхности земли устанавливают ловчие пояса, которые можно изготовить из подручных материалов — рубероид, плёнка, мешковина, брезент и т. п.||Пояса препятствуют заползанию на крону долгоносиков, муравьёв, гусениц и других вредителей|
|Обработки системными фунгицидами||Для регулярных опрыскиваний применяют испытанные препараты Скор, Хорус, Квадрис и другие. Приступают к обработкам после цветения и в дальнейшем повторяют их с интервалом 2—3 недели. Нужно помнить, что все противогрибковые препараты вызывают привыкание и после трёх обработок обычно теряют эффективность. Поэтому препараты следует чередовать. Непосредственно перед съёмом урожая применяют такие, сроки ожидания у которых минимальные. Например, у Хоруса срок ожидания составляет 7 дней, у Квадриса — 5 дней до употребления плодов в пищу.||Профилактика и лечение грибковых заболеваний|
|Обработки инсектицидами||Весной и в начале лета в период вылетов бабочек и мух применяют Децис, Фуфанон. В дальнейшем переходят на биопрепараты типа Искра, Искра Био и другие.||Профилактика и уничтожение насекомых-вредителей|
Заболевания, которым подвержены груши
Груша Памяти Яковлева имеет высокий иммунитет к парше, а сорта Осенняя Яковлева и Любимица Яковлева имеют склонность к этому заболеванию . А также груши могут поражаться и другими грибковыми заболеваниями. Как правило, выполнение описанных профилактических мероприятий предотвращает от заражений, поэтому вкратце ознакомим садовода с основными представителями, не вдаваясь в излишние подробности.
Это наиболее частое заболевание груш и яблонь. Проявляется образованием оливково-бурых пятен на нижней стороне листьев Затем пятна появляются уже на плодах, постепенно превращаясь в гнилостные. Кожица начинает трескаться, в мякоти образуются твёрдые, каменистые участки. Плоды становятся непригодными к употреблению.
Груши Осення Яковлева и Любимица Яковлева часто поражаются паршой
Монилиоз — грибковое заболевание, которое поражает не только грушу, но и другие плодовые деревья. Чаще всего заражение происходит во время цветения — пчёлы приносят на своих лапках споры возбудителя вместе с пыльцой. Понятно, что поражаются в первую очередь цветки. Затем грибок распространяется через пестик и плодоножку на побеги и листья. Все эти части растения получают так называемый Монилиальный ожог. Поражённые части груши поникают, увядают и чернеют. Увидев такое явление, следует немедленно обрезать больные побеги с захватом здоровых частей длиной 20–30 сантиметров. После этого приступают к обработкам фунгицидами. Летом грибок поражает плоды, вызывая такое заболевание, как серая или плодовая гниль.Recent entries In April, I process roses so that no pests encroach on my beauties
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Летом монилиоз поражает плоды груши, вызавая такое заболевание, как серая или плодовая гниль
Во второй половине лета, когда на растениях часто появляется тля, груша может поражаться сажистым грибком. Связано это с тем, что сладкие выделения тли являются питательной средой для этого грибка. На листьях и плодах груши появляется серовато-белый налёт, который впоследствии чернеет, напоминая сажу. Бороться в первую очередь следует с тлёй, а уже с появившимся грибком помогут справиться фунгициды.
На листьях и плодах груши, поражённых сажистым грибком, появляется серовато-белый налёт, который впоследствии чернеет, напоминая сажу
Вероятные вредители груш
As already mentioned, preventive measures are most effective in pest control. And indeed, it’s too late to fight a butterfly when caterpillars have already crawled out of its eggs and penetrated into the fruits. Meet the main "lovers" to feast on the fruits and leaves of the pear.
It is well known that aphids are carried on tree crowns by ants, which, like the sooty fungus, like to eat sugary secretions of these small insects. As a rule, they are located on the underside of the leaves and feed on their juice. Subsequently, the leaves twist and this sign can be found out about the aphid attack. After this treatment, contact insecticides lose their effectiveness, since the solution does not get into the twisted leaves. It remains only to pick off the affected leaves. It is clear that by driving ants away from the site, the gardener also gets rid of aphids.
Aphids on the crown of a pear are carried by ants
A small, brownish butterfly lays eggs in the soil. The caterpillars that emerged from them crawl onto the tree, penetrate the fruits, after which they can be detected by the appearance of holes with droplets of gum. Such fruits lose their commercial value - they can be used only for processing, cutting out the affected parts.
The caterpillar of the pear moth penetrates the fruits
This pest is a representative of a galaxy of weevils. It hibernates in the soil of the tree circle and fallen leaves. If the beetles overwinter safely - with the onset of spring, they crawl out of the ground and climb the crown of a tree. At this time, usually the leaves and flowers have not yet blossomed, so the beetles begin to feed on the pulp of flower buds, gnawing the inside of the buds. In the future, they can eat leaflets, and flowers, and young shoots. The attentive gardener has already understood what preventive measures will help him prevent this invasion. If the beetles still appeared on the tree, then in early spring, when it is still cold, the problem can be solved simply by collecting the beetles manually. To do this, use the feature of beetles to be in a state of stupor at low air temperatures. In the morning, when the air has not yet warmed up, you can spread some fabric under the pear and shake off the beetles on it.
With the onset of spring, flower beetles crawl out of the ground and climb the crown of a tree
In memory of Yakovlev (though, last year’s autumn landing of 2 years old), the snow level froze.
Autumn Yakovleva is very affected by scab and is not very winter-hardy even for the north of the Kaluga region, so I got rid of it ...
AndreyV, Kaluga Region
Autumn Yakovleva is a very tasty and elegant pear, it often freezes, scab also happens. This variety is often confused with other Yakovlevsky varieties or forms that have not passed into varieties. My friend gave her first fruits for 9 years, and that year she was very cold. In my old crown the vaccine is growing, the fifth year, there has not been flowering yet.
Yakovlev’s memory is complete without formation at all. Just removing the thickening shoots. I have this pear, unlike others with a central conductor, but it itself forms a spreading crown.
gardener, Ryazan region
Reading on the forum reviews about the pear of the variety Pamyat Yakovlev, I am at a loss. I have the Yakovlev Memory of 18 years of age from the age of three regularly bearing fruit, in contrast to 19 tested varieties. I sold about 600 seedlings in memory of Yakovlev in my region - there are no complaints. In fairness, it should be noted 15 km from my garden that a fairly experienced gardener got a variety this winter.
Andrey Ilyushin, Pachelma, Penza Region
Everything is very clear from the memory of Yakovlev. Winter hardiness grades on the verge of possible. You can grow in our area, but only in gardens with a successful microclimate. For example, in my cold garden, Yakovlev’s memory freezes with enviable regularity according to the level of snow. And in the garden only 300 meters uphill, my seedling in memory of Yakovlev grows well and bears fruit. The owner is very pleased with her. It’s just a couple of degrees warmer in the winter, which everyone changes. In addition, the variety has an amazing regeneration even after severe freezing. Good variety, but not for everyone.
AlexanderR, Nizhny Novgorod region
Yakovleva’s darling in 2006 stood at -42, this year she gave a lot of fruit, but due to the drought, the fruits were small, but ripened as usual (not earlier than September 10) dry and sweet,
I have P. Yakovlev, like everyone, not tall, beautiful large fruits of a trade dress, juicy, slightly tart. But in some years, granulation happens.
March, Moscow region
Re: In memory of Yakovlev, the variety is very good for processing. Baked pear p.a. very tasty with a characteristic wine aroma sweet with a slight sourness. Very tasty of her jam and compotes. For heat treatment, this is the best grade.
Pear Lyubimitsa Yakovleva is already rarely in demand, as it was superseded by newer varieties. Autumn Yakovleva is very popular due to the high appreciation of the taste and transportability of the fruit. The leader of the varieties under consideration is the pear of Memory of Yakovlev due to a set of positive characteristics - self-fertility, early maturity, winter hardiness, scab resistance and excellent taste of fruits combined with their portability and stamina.