Growing onions in greens: from windowsill to hydroponics!

Onion greens is a very useful supplement to any dish, because it is extremely rich in vitamins, macro- and microelements. The culture is unpretentious, therefore, found on personal plots everywhere. But you can provide yourself with greenery not only during the horticultural season, if you learn to grow green onions in a greenhouse or on a windowsill.

The best varieties of onions on greens

For distillation on the feather, there are special varieties of onions. But even ordinary onion is quite suitable.


It is necessary to choose multi-grape varieties. If you cut such an onion, inside you will see not one, but 3-5 green buds of future feathers.

A multiglossal onion is easy to identify by cutting an onion

Suitable options:

  • Arzamas local. A variety from the mid-season category with 3-4 primordia. In addition to greens, it also gives small, very dense bulbs. The pen is not damaged at low temperatures. Significant shortcomings are the tendency to defeat with downy mildew and special love from the onion fly.
  • Bessonovsky local. Onions of early ripening, medium-eared (2-3 pieces). It has a very good immunity, the only exception is peronosporosis. Requires minimal maintenance.
  • Rostov local superior. One of the earliest varieties, 3-4 bulbs in each bulb. The pen extremely rarely suffers from diseases, is cold-resistant.
  • Spassky local superior. One of the best varieties of medium ripening for distillation on greens. Each onion has 7–10 primordia. It is resistant to cold, but can be severely affected by peronosporosis and neck rot if suitable conditions for the development of these diseases are created during the season.
  • Chernihiv-4. A variety from the medium-late category. Each onion has 3-5 primordia. Often affected by peronosporosis, almost never - neck rot.
  • Amber-29. In the bulb, 1-3 embryo. The ripening variety is mid-season. Cold resistance and good immunity are characteristic.

Onions are quite suitable for distillation on greens, but this is still not its main purpose


Also found under the names "Tatar", "sandy", "winter". If you choose a perennial variety, feathers can be cut 2-3 times during the season, in the annual one-piece - only one. In this variety, it is necessary to cut off the appearing stems with seed boxes, they take away the necessary food from the feathers, their taste spoils sharply.

If you are planting onion-batun on greens, choose perennial varieties

The best varieties:

  • April. Early (102–142 days) perennial variety. Productive life is 5–7 years. Greens tolerates cold up to -10ºС. It is distinguished by good immunity. One bulb per season produces up to 40 feathers (200-300 g).

    April - one of the most popular varieties of onion-batun among Russian gardeners

  • Baron. An ultra-early variety, the crop can be cut in a month with a little after emergence. The variety does not suffer from low temperatures, starting from the second year after planting it brings 3.5–4 kg of greens with 1 m² per season. Immunity at the standard level.
  • Bahia Verde. A variety from the mid-season category. Pen cutting continues from late spring to late autumn. The variety rarely suffers from all types of rot and cold. Productivity - 4.2 kg / m².
  • Emerald. A common hybrid of onions and early-ripening rods. It is characterized by cold resistance and excellent immunity, including peronosporosis. Productivity - 3.2 kg / m².
  • Tenderness. Greens can be cut a month after emergence. The variety is winter hardy. Productivity - up to 3.5 kg / m². Immunity at the standard level.
  • Russian winter. Mid-season (27-30 days), very cold-resistant variety. Productivity - 3.68 kg / m². Immunity is not bad.
  • Seryozha. Early grade. Productivity - 2.8 kg / m². Frost resistance allows you to grow it throughout Russia. Disease rarely affects.
  • Russian size. Annual grade. High (more than 4 kg / m²) yield due to the large size of the leaves. If the summer is cool and rainy, it can suffer from peronosporosis. Frost resistance is high.

    Bow Russian size fully lives up to the name

  • Pierrot. Medium early (40 days) grade. Productivity - 5–5.5 kg / m². The variety is resistant to fungal diseases typical of the culture. But frost resistance allows you to grow it on an industrial scale only in greenhouses.

Video: onion-baton on greens


He’s a cutter or a speed. The leaf length rarely exceeds 50 cm. They are very narrow, similar to needles. Greens are extremely juicy, delicate and fragrant. This variety does not form large bulbs, but it blooms very nicely, attracting pollinating insects to the site. Chives are good for growing at home.

Chives are planted not only for greens and bulbs, but also to decorate the site

Common varieties:

  • Bohemia. Does not lose quality when grown in one place up to 3-5 years. Valued for a stable yield, which is slightly affected by weather conditions. The variety is early, the feather can be cut 2.5-3 weeks after germination. One bulb gives up to 200 g per season, in total - up to 4 kg / m². Immunity is not bad, as is frost resistance.

    Onion Bohemia stably brings a crop, no matter how the weather is issued in terms of summer

  • Prague One of the earliest varieties. Productivity up to 4.5–5 kg / m². Cold tolerance and immunity at the standard level.
  • Khibinsky. The variety is mid-season, frost-resistant. The productive life of one plant is up to seven years. Immunity against fungal diseases is not bad. Average productivity - 3.5–4 kg / m²
  • Siberian. The variety has a medium ripening period and is distinguished by extreme frost resistance and good immunity. Productivity - 4 kg / m².
  • Honey plant. About 86–95 days elapse from seedling emergence to mass crop cutting (medium late variety). The total yield for the season is up to 5 kg / m². From diseases, colds and pests rarely suffers.
  • Chemal. From the mid-season category. Valued for very high productivity (up to 600 g per plant and 6.84 kg per 1 m²). The variety can be severely affected by downy mildew if the weather in the summer favors the development of the fungus. Frost resistance is not bad.
  • Spring. It takes 25-30 days to ripen the greens. Early variety, characterized by good cold tolerance and immunity. Productivity - up to 5-6 kg / m² per season.


Also called pearl. In appearance, the feathers are almost indistinguishable from garlic. The taste is very delicate, delicate. The average yield is 2-3 kg / m². Plants, as a rule, are tall and powerful; this variety is not very suitable for cultivation on the windowsill.

The bulk of the nutrients in leeks are concentrated at the base of the stem

The best varieties:

  • Columbus Each plant gives up to 400 g of greenery. Ripening period is 85–90 days (medium early). Productivity - 3.1 kg / m². Disease rarely affects.
  • Vesta. Early grade. In regions with a temperate and more severe climate, this onion is best planted in greenhouses or pre-grown seedlings, it has moderate frost resistance. Productivity - 5.7 kg / m². Immunity is not bad.
  • Casimir. Mid-season variety (200 days). It is desirable to grow seedlings. Otherwise, having survived the autumn colds, it will not bear them. Productivity - up to 5-6 kg / m². Immunity is good.

    Casimir - one of the best Russian leek varieties

  • Winner. It is cultivated both as an annual plant and as a perennial. Valued for good immunity and high frost resistance, suitable for regions with a temperate and more severe climate. The growing season is 130-160 days. Productivity - 3.4 kg / m².
  • Alligator. Medium-late variety (180-200 days), for the Urals and Siberia is not suitable, even if planted in a greenhouse (unheated). Harvesting is usually done in early spring, after wintering. Frost resistance of the variety allows this. Productivity - 3.4 kg / m². Immunity is good.
  • Elephant. Variety of late ripening. Harvest can be cut 180-200 days after planting. The average weight of one plant is up to 200 g, the total yield is up to 4 kg / m², but only with proper care. The variety is cold-resistant, rarely affected by diseases.
  • Gray-winged. One of the best late-ripening varieties. It has a very high frost resistance. The average plant weight is up to 150 g, the total yield is 3–3.5 kg / m².
  • Tango. Very successfully combines excellent taste with a stably high yield and cold resistance. Greens are ready for cutting 150 days after planting (mid-season). The mass of one plant is 200–250 g, the total yield is up to 4.5 kg / m². Immunity at the standard level.

    Bow Tango is practically devoid of flaws, but requires careful care


It differs in general unpretentiousness. The quality of greens and productivity significantly exceeds onions.

Shallots are loved by gardeners for their general unpretentiousness and great productivity

Popular varieties among gardeners:

  • Ayrat. A variety from the mid-season category. The average yield is 1.6 kg / m². Frost resistance is average, immunity is good.
  • Bonnilla F1. Hybrid of medium ripening. Most often grown from seeds as an annual. Bulbs ripen in 85–87 days, greens can be cut off after 1.5 months. Productivity - 1.5 kg / m². Cold resistance and immunity are not bad.
  • Vitamin basket. An ultra-early variety specially bred for feathering in heated greenhouses in winter and early spring. The growing season is 65–70 days, greens can be cut already 20 days after planting. Frost resistance is quite average, immunity is not bad.

    Onion Vitamin basket yields a green crop very quickly

  • Cascade. A variety of early ripening. Appreciated for its high productivity (more than 2 kg / m²), good immunity and frost resistance.

    The undoubted advantage of onions Cascade - high productivity

  • Fortress. It is distinguished by the presence of immunity to all types of rot and resistance to shooting. By maturity - medium late, suitable for planting in the winter. Cold resistance allows it. Productivity - up to 2 kg / m².
  • Sophocles. A medium-ripening variety, appreciated for its good immunity against Fusarium and thrips, a consistently high yield (1.8–2 kg / m²). The growing season is up to 60 days. Immunity is good.

Slime Onion

This variety can be identified by broad flat leaves exuding a tangible garlic aroma. Appreciated for precocity, cold hardiness, stably high productivity. In closed ground it grows year-round; in the garden, the vegetation period ends only with the onset of frost.

Slime onions are distinguished by a long growing period, which ensures high productivity

Popular varieties:

  • Green Mid-season grade. It successfully adapts to a variety of cultivation conditions, has immunity to peronosporosis and rust. Productivity - 4-6 kg / m². One plant brings a crop for 4–5 years. Cold resistance allows it to calmly winter in a temperate climate.
  • Dwarf. Productivity during the season is 3–3.5 kg / m². Mid-season (38–42 days) winter-hardy variety with good immunity.

    Onion Dwarf looks very decorative

  • Leader. Mid-season grade. Greens can be cut 3-4 times per season, each time receiving 2 kg from 1 m². Frost resistance is good, rarely suffers from diseases.
  • Charm. Productivity - 1.7 kg / m² for each cut. The variety is mid-season, frost-resistant, with good immunity.
  • Belorussian. Long-term variety, productive period - up to 7 years. The variety is valued for its high frost resistance and very good immunity. Average productivity - up to 2 kg / m².

Tiered Bow

He is Egyptian or Canadian. The first name was due to the fact that it forms small air bulbs. It surpasses other varieties of culture in terms of undemanding care and productivity. Most varieties are early ripe and multi-sprouted. Small leaves (40–45 cm long), in the form of a pipe. Most often, such onions are planted in the fall.

Multi-tiered onions form small bulbs at the site of inflorescences

Popular varieties:

  • Likova. The variety is early ripe, stably gives a high yield (3.6 kg / m².) Even with a shortage of light. A significant drawback is thrips love. Cold resistance is not bad.

    Likov's bow often suffers from thrips attacks

  • Memory. During the season, greens are cut 2-3 times, receiving a total of up to 3 kg of feather. Early variety (24 days). Immunity and cold resistance at the standard level.
  • Chelyabinsk. Early ripe variety (20 days). For the season gives up to 3 kg of greenery. Diseases and pests are rarely affected.

Bulb planting in the ground

Onions are very undemanding in care. This also applies to growing conditions. But it should be remembered that the quality of planting material is the key to the future abundant harvest.

Optimal timing

On average, the greens of most varieties of onions ripen in 15–20 days. From this we must proceed, determining the timing of its landing.

At home, time does not matter at all, new bulbs are planted year-round, as necessary. In greenhouses, planting is practiced in the cold season (October-April), in winter the demand for fresh herbs is much higher.

In open ground, the specific period depends on the region of cultivation. The soil at a depth of 4-5 cm should warm up to a minimum of 6-8 ° C. In a temperate climate, this is usually the first half of May. During the summer, the bulbs can be planted another 2-3 times, calculating the time so as to have time to cut the greens before the first frost.

If the culture is grown from seeds, like a two-year-old plant, they are sown on a bed in the middle of summer. Fresh greens will appear literally from under the snow, it can be cut in April or early May.

Bed preparation

Choose a culture that is well-lit by the sun and protected from the wind. In the shade, the feathers stretch out, become thinner, become unaesthetically pale. The substrate should be loose, well permeable to air and water. Good predecessors for onions are any Pumpkin and Solanaceae, all kinds of cabbage.

In the process of digging, the bed under the onion is cleaned of weeds, all the necessary fertilizers are applied

In the autumn, the soil is dug up, 3–4 l of humus or rotted compost, 20–25 g of simple superphosphate or potassium sulfate and 10–15 g of any mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizer are added per 1 m².

Humus - a natural remedy to increase soil fertility

2-3 days before landing, it is loosened loosely, leveled and carefully tamped. The latter is necessary so that after landing onions, the substrate does not sag excessively.

Preparing planting material

The best choice in this case is bulbs about 3-4 cm in diameter weighing 10-15 g. They need to be cleaned of dried scales and sorted out, discarding all specimens with the slightest suspicious traces, reminiscent of mold or rot, dents, cracks. Approximately the same size is especially important when onions are planted on a green scale on an industrial scale - this ensures further simultaneous cutting of the feather.

Bulbs for planting are selected very carefully - the future crop depends on it

Mandatory stage - disinfection. For disinfection, the selected bulbs are immersed for several hours in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. Another option is salt water (a tablespoon per liter). You can add a few drops of any biostimulant to the solution (Epin, Heteroauxin, Kornevin, Immunocytophyte).

Potassium permanganate solution - one of the most common disinfectants

A common disease that can almost completely destroy the feather is peronosporosis. For prevention, planting material must be warmed up at a temperature of 40 ° C for 7-8 hours.

To stimulate the bulbs to actively form greenery, the upper quarter is cut off, providing a larger volume of oxygen to the leaf embryos. To enhance the effect, also make 2-3 longitudinal incisions with a depth of 1.5–2 mm.

If you cut off the top of the bulb, you can get greens faster

For the same purpose, onions are poured into a bunch and watered with warm (30–35ºC) water. Then it is covered for 4-6 days with burlap or other material that allows air to pass through, but not light. The temperature in the room is maintained at a level not lower than 25ºС.

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The described preparation methods shift the timing of cutting back greens by 4–7 days and increase the productivity of the pen by at least 60%.

Video: preparation of bulbs and their planting in the ground

Different ways of landing

There are two ways to plant onions:

  • Tape. Familiar to all gardeners landing in the furrows. Between adjacent bulbs, depending on their size, 5–7 cm are left, row spacing is 12–20 cm. After planting, furrows are covered with soil.

    Nearly all gardeners practice onion planting with a tape method on a personal plot.

  • Pavement. Bulbs are located on the surface of the beds as densely as possible, end-to-end. The base is slightly pressed into the soil. Top they are covered with a layer of soil with a thickness of not more than 2-3 cm. This method is often practiced when planting onions on greens in greenhouses. The bulb itself has almost no opportunity to develop, all the nutrients in it go to the feathers. Up to 10-12 kg of planting material is consumed per 1 m².

    Planting onions by the bridge method forcibly limits the development of bulbs, forcing them to give all the nutrients to the leaves

Onion seeds on greens are planted in furrows with an interval of 30–40 cm. They are sown very abundantly. Because of this, the seedlings are extremely thick. When the first leaves appear, they will need to be thinned out, creating intervals of 2-3 cm.

When growing a pen, planting seeds is extremely rare. Its only plus is the low cost of planting material. Harvest will have to wait a very long time.

Getting greens from onion seeds is a long enough procedure

Video: growing onions from seeds

Nuances of crop care during the season

To get a good harvest of greens, the gardener requires:

  • Regular loosening of the beds. This ensures normal air exchange. It must be carried out 1-2 days after each watering.

    Loosening the beds breaks the hard crust on the soil surface

  • Weeding. The root system of the onion is underdeveloped, the weeds simply "strangle" it, taking away the necessary nutrition.

    If you do not weed a bed with a bow, you can not wait for a plentiful harvest

  • Watering. It is necessary when the soil dries at a depth of 3-4 cm. On average, 4–6 irrigations (twice a week) should be carried out before the first ripening of greens. Excess moisture is harmful to the culture - the bulbs begin to rot. Watering the bed along the furrows.

    Onions watered on the furrows in the aisles

  • Fertilizer application. It is advisable to do with natural dressings. Enough 3-4 times during the growing season. Most often they are combined with watering. You can use infusions of fresh cow manure, bird droppings, nettle leaves and dandelion, wood ash. All this provides plants with nitrogen, stimulating them to actively build green mass. It is useful to feed after the first feather cut to give the plants strength.

    Nettle infusion - a natural source of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus

  • Fight against diseases and pests. It is also advisable to do without chemicals here. The best prevention is competent agricultural technology. To protect against fungal diseases, it is useful to spray plants every 7-10 days and spill the soil with solutions of soda ash, wood ash, dust with chalk or colloidal sulfur. Pests are effectively scared away by mustard powder, tobacco chips, ground pepper scattered across the beds.

    Onion peronosporosis is one of the most dangerous diseases for culture

  • Frost protection. When planting before winter from autumn, the bed is covered with a layer of humus with a thickness of at least 5 cm. In the spring, it is removed. When return frosts are expected, it is tightened with plastic wrap or any covering material. If seeds are planted, by the fall there are already quite long feathers. In this case, the onions are covered with straw or a mixture of peat crumbs with sawdust.

    Many varieties of onions are positioned as frost-resistant, but you still should not neglect mulching the beds for the winter

Video: Green Onion Growing Tips

Harvesting and storage

Green onions are ready for cutting, when the length of the feather reaches about 30 cm. You can’t delay the harvest - the feathers lose a lot of presentability (dry, yellow), and taste also suffers. As soon as they began to lean toward the ground - it was definitely time.

In order for the feathers to continue to grow, existing ones need to be cut off above the growth points of the shoots. Use sharp scissors or a small pruner for this. Such tools cause minimal damage to the plant. At home, you can simply gently pinch off individual feathers as needed, gradually moving from the periphery to the center.

If you overexpose the harvest of green onions in the garden, its quality will deteriorate sharply

Сохранить перо свежим на 2–3 недели можно, поместив его в холодильник. Мыть его перед этим не надо. Есть и альтернативные способы хранения:

  • В стеклянных банках. Небольшие сухие перья выкладывают в банку, плотно закрывают её крышкой. Если они в процессе не сломались и не погнулись, зелень сохранит свежесть примерно на месяц. Ёмкость нужно убрать в тёмное прохладное место. Залив лук растительным маслом, вы продлите срок хранения ещё на 4–6 недель, но в таком виде он подходит не для всех блюд.
  • В полиэтиленовом пакете. Немытые перья складывают в пакет подходящего размера, завязывают его, ножом или вилкой делают несколько отверстий для вентиляции. Держат пакет в погребе или подвале.
  • В плотной бумаге или полотняной салфетке. Категорически запрещается использовать газеты — типографская краска содержит свинец. Перо моют, дают воде стечь, заворачивают в бумагу или ткань, сверху слегка сбрызгивают из пульверизатора. Свёрток заворачивают в целлофан и убирают в погреб или кладовку.

В холодильнике лук хранят в специальном отделении для овощей и фруктов

Дольше всего без потери полезных свойств хранится сушёный и замороженный лук (соответственно два года и год). Сушить его можно как естественным способом, так и в духовке, специальной сушилке. Для заморозки перья нужно предварительно мелко нарезать. Ещё лук солят и заквашивают.

Перед заморозкой зелёный лук нарезают — так он занимает меньше места

Методы выращивания лука на перо

Культивирование в открытом грунте — не единственный метод выращивания зелени лука. Профессиональные фермеры высаживают его в теплицах. Нет ничего сложного и в том, чтобы получить свежую зелень в домашних условиях.

In the greenhouse

Основной критерий выбора сорта в данном случае — урожайность. Для получения большой массы зелени в теплице нужен плодородный грунт. Его поверхность присыпают доломитовой мукой или гашёной известью — это не даст развиться плесени.

В теплицах без отопления луковицы высаживают мостовым способом в самом конце осени, присыпая смесью перегноя и торфяной крошки (слой минимум 5–6 см толщиной). Убирают мульчу в последней декаде февраля. Лук поливают тёплой водой, грядки затягивают полиэтиленовой плёнкой до появления всходов.

В отапливаемых теплицах поддерживать оптимальные условия для выгонки пера проще — луку нужна температура 17–20ºС днём и 13–15ºС по ночам при 12-часовом световом дне. Когда появятся первые всходы, дневную температуру поднимают до 21–23ºС, но не более. Перо в тепле растёт быстрее, но сильно вытягивается.

Выращивание зелёного лука в теплице экономически оправдывается только в промышленных масштабах

К обычным мероприятиям по уходу за культурой в теплице добавляется проветривание. В качестве подкормки используют специальные минеральные комплексы для лука. Поливы полностью прекращают за 4–5 дней до планируемой срезки зелени.

Видео: лук на зелень в теплице

На гидропонике

Способ очень популярен у тех, кто выращивает зелень на продажу, гидропоника позволяет получать перо круглый год и экономить место. Плиты размещаются на стеллажах в 3–4 яруса.

Луковицы высаживаются в специальные плиты из минеральной ваты или маты, предварительно увлажнённые и пролитые раствором удобрений. Интервал между ними — около 2 см, ширина междурядий — 3 см. Сверху их засыпают слоем перлита или вермикулита толщиной 2–3 см.

Выращивая зелёный лук на гидропонике, необходимо обеспечить ему оптимальные или близкие к этому условия

В течение следующей недели посадкам нужна тень и прохлада. Как только появятся развитые корни, световой день увеличивают до 12–14 часов, температуру поднимают до 23–25ºС. Перья достигают длины 25–30 см уже через 12–15 дней. Постоянно следите за тем, чтобы «субстрат» всё время оставался слегка увлажнённым, поливайте его раствором удобрений.

Видео: зелёный лук на гидропонике

At home

Технология более или менее знакома всем. Луковицу помещают донцем в стакан с водой или высаживают в ёмкость диаметром 7–10 см. Подойдёт любой универсальный субстрат для рассады. Ещё можно использовать глубокий поддон, чтобы увеличить урожай. До появления всходов луковицам обеспечивают тепло (25–30ºС). Как только перья дорастут до 1, 5–2 см в длину, температуру нужно будет понизить до 20–23ºС.

Выращивать лук в одном контейнере удобнее, чем в нескольких отдельных баночках

Воду в ёмкости меняют раз в 2–3 дня, субстрат поливают дважды в неделю. Подкормки вносить не обязательно. Всё необходимое перо получит из самой луковицы, срезав зелень, её просто выбрасывают. Ждать урожая недолго — первые перья появляются через неделю или даже раньше, необходимой длины они достигают через 8–12 дней. Ёмкости нужно держать подальше от батарей отопления и иных нагревательных приборов. Иначе почва быстро перегревается, перья плохо растут.

Если лук дома выращивается в воде, следите, чтобы донце не касалось её поверхности, в противном случае быстро развивается гниль

Можно сэкономить место, выращивая зелёный лук в бутылках со срезанным горлышком. В стенках 5-литровой ёмкости вырезают несколько 5–8 отверстий, совпадающих по диаметру с луковицами. Их вставляют внутрь, в бутылку засыпают грунт, хорошо утрамбовывая. Поливают посадки, опуская тару в воду.

Хорошо растёт лук дома и в опилках, они надолго задерживают влагу, позволяя обойтись 1–2 поливами. Только перед высадкой их нужно обязательно обдать крутым кипятком или замочить на несколько часов в растворе перманганата калия для дезинфекции. Опилки используют только однажды: собрав урожай, субстрат полностью меняют.

Видео: выращивание зелени лука на подоконнике

Growing problems

Лук — культура некапризная в уходе, однако собрать обильный урожай зелени удаётся не всегда. Бывает, что его губят болезни и вредители, но чаще всего проблема заключается в неправильном выборе места для высадки или в неграмотном уходе.

Культура категорически не переносит повышенной кислотности почвы и соседства с сорняками. Ещё для неё желательно наличие в субстрате серы. В противном случае перо получается тонким, деформированным. При подготовке грядки в грунт вносят доломитовую муку, сульфат калия, сульфат аммония.

Adequate watering is very important at an early stage. Sprinkling is strictly excluded - this often provokes the development of peronosporosis. A general waterlogging of the soil contributes to the development of rot.

Yellowing feathers of onions can indicate both a moisture deficit and a lack of potassium

An unnatural color of feathers testifies to the deficiency of certain nutrients:

  • Nitrogen. Pale green or light green shade, thin feathers.
  • Phosphorus. The fading and drooping feather tips gradually blacken.
  • Potassium. Feathers are lime or yellowish, as if corrugated.
  • Magnesium. Feathers covered with whitish spots, very easily breaking.
  • Copper. Feathers of straw-yellow color laying on a bed.

There is nothing complicated about growing onion greens. Even a novice gardener will cope with this. The main thing is to choose the right variety. The culture is not capricious in leaving, preparation for the landing also does not require anything supernatural. Green onions can be cultivated not only in the garden, but also at home. It is also successfully grown in greenhouses. Each method has some nuances that you need to familiarize yourself with in advance.


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