Growing Cabbage Seedlings at Home: A Step-by-Step Guide

Cabbage is one of the most popular vegetable crops grown by almost every gardener on his plot. It contains a large amount of minerals, proteins and carbohydrates. In addition, cabbage can be consumed in any form: cheese, stew, sauerkraut. It can be grown in seedlings and seedlings. In most regions of our country, cabbage is planted with seedlings. The main thing is to properly prepare for planting and in the future to provide the sprouts with the necessary care.

Landing preparation

For the cultivation of cabbage through seedlings, it is necessary to prepare tanks, soil and seed material.

Preparation of soil and containers

The selection and preparation of soil must be approached with special attention. The first land that comes in is no good. If, for example, you consider the soil from the garden, then it can contain dangerous microorganisms and pest larvae. A mixture for growing seedlings is better to buy ready-made or make yourself. You can choose one of the recipes:

  • turf land, peat and humus in a ratio of 1: 1: 1;
  • peat, sod land and coarse sand - 1: 3: 1/4;
  • wood ash, lime, coarse sand - 1: 1/4: 1/4.

To grow seedlings of cabbage, the soil mixture is bought or independently prepared

The main qualities that the soil for seedlings must meet are fertility, water and air permeability.

It’s best to prepare the soil from the fall and store it in a cool place until spring.

For sowing and growing cabbage seedlings at home, you can use:

  • cups
  • pots
  • boxes
  • cassette.

The capacity is selected depending on the estimated number of plants to be grown. If the volumes are large, then it is more reasonable to use seedling boxes and cassettes with the subsequent picking of seedlings. No matter what the sowing will be done, there should be openings in the bottom of the tank so that the water does not stagnate.

Cabbage seedlings can be grown both in seedlings and in separate containers

It is recommended to process the container with a solution of potassium permanganate. For this, 5 g of potassium permanganate is diluted in a bucket of hot water (almost boiling). Ready solution is watered containers and tools used for planting.

Seed preparation

Before sowing seeds, you need to prepare:

  • select quality material
  • to disinfect him
  • increase germination.

Calibration

Cabbage seeds are calibrated in a 3% salt solution for 5 minutes. In salt water, light grains will emerge, and heavy grains will sink to the bottom: they should be used for planting. Then the seeds are washed in clean water and dried. For sowing, you can use not only large, but also medium planting material.

Before planting, cabbage seeds must be calibrated to select the best seed.

Germination test

To determine the germination of the seed material, it is wrapped in a damp cloth, and it is better to take 100 pieces for a more convenient calculation. Germination is carried out in a place where the temperature is maintained at + 20–25 ˚С, while it is necessary to monitor the condition of the tissue and prevent it from drying out. Every day, the seeds are inspected, sprouted are counted and removed. From the grains that sprouted in the first 3 days, you can determine how friendly the seedlings will be, and by the fact that they hatch within 7 days, the germination of the seed material.

Disinfection

To disinfect seeds from the causative agents of fungal and bacterial diseases, in most cases they resort to treatment with a 1-2% solution of potassium permanganate, followed by washing in clean water. You can achieve a greater effect by heat treatment by placing the seeds in a gauze bag in water at a temperature of + 48-50 ° C for 20 minutes. The indicated temperature should not be exceeded, since the seeds will lose their germination, and with a lower treatment there will be no result.

To disinfect cabbage seeds, they are treated in a 1-2% solution of potassium permanganate

How to speed up germination

So that the seeds germinate faster, they are soaked in water at room temperature and placed in a warm place where they should be around 12 hours, while it is recommended to change the water every 4 hours. The amount of liquid should be such that it only covers the seeds. In the process of soaking, the grains swell. If the seeding time has not come yet, then they are wrapped in a damp cloth and placed on the lower shelf of the refrigerator.

Soaking can also be performed in special solutions (for example, in infusion of wood ash). For its preparation:

  1. In 1 liter of warm water, 2 tablespoons of ash are poured.
  2. Insist a day, and then filter.
  3. In this solution, soaking is carried out for 3 hours.
  4. After the seeds are washed with clean water.

You can speed up the germination of cabbage seeds using an ash infusion, in which they are soaked for 3 hours

Hardening

Before sowing cabbage, seeds are recommended to be hardened to increase resistance to low temperatures. After all the preparatory procedures, the seed material is placed in the lower part of the refrigerator (+ 1–2 ° C) for a day. After this time, the seeds are dried and begin to sow.

Planting seeds for seedlings

The timing of sowing cabbage for seedlings depends on the variety of culture, the region and when it is supposed to get the crop.

The timing

When growing cabbage of early varieties in some regions, seedlings are planted in open ground at the end of April, which indicates the need for sowing seeds in mid-February or early March. Varieties of medium maturity for seedlings must be sown in early April, late ripening at the end of the month. Plants of these varieties are planted in unprotected soil from mid-May to early June. As for more accurate dates, they will depend on weather conditions for a particular region. It is not difficult to calculate the timing of sowing cabbage seeds for seedlings: about 10 days pass from sowing to seedlings, and 50–55 days from the first sprouts to planting plants in the ground. This indicates the need for planting seeds for seedlings 60-65 days before transplanting into open ground.

How to sow

Sowing the culture in question is quite simple and boils down to the following actions:

  1. Landing tanks are filled with soil and make small grooves with a depth of 1 cm with a distance of 3 cm from each other.

    Landing tanks are filled with soil mixture, after which grooves or small recesses are made, depending on the type of container

  2. Spread the seeds with an interval of 3 cm and sprinkle with sand or peat to prevent the formation of soil crust.

    Spread the cabbage seeds with an interval of 3 cm, after which they sprinkle with peat, sand or a mixture of soil

  3. The soil is well shed with water, after which the container is covered with a transparent film and placed in a warm place (+20 ˚С).

    After sowing the seeds, the cups are covered with a plastic bag and placed in a warm place (+20 ˚С)

Video: sowing cabbage for seedlings

Care for seedlings of cabbage at home

In order to grow healthy and strong seedlings, she needs to provide proper care. Otherwise, not only growth retardation is possible, but also the occurrence of diseases, and in the worst case, the death of seedlings.

Temperature

Sprouts of cabbage should appear on the 9-10th day after sowing. During this period, the temperature must be reduced to +10 ˚С. At higher rates, young seedlings will be elongated. In addition, there is a likelihood of developing diseases and the death of seedlings.

If seedlings are grown in an apartment, then the most suitable place is a glazed loggia (balcony).

After 1–2 weeks, the temperature is raised to + 16–17 ˚С, at night it is maintained at + 7–10 ˚С, while ensuring regular ventilation.

When growing seedlings of cabbage, it is important to observe the temperature regime depending on the stage of development

Top dressing

A mandatory measure in the care of cabbage seedlings is top dressing. Plants need additional nutrition, which ensures their active growth and development. Fertilizers are applied several times:

  1. 2 weeks after emergence - ammonium nitrate (2 g), superphosphate (4 g), potassium fertilizers (2 g), which are diluted in 1 liter of water, are used as nutrients. The resulting solution is watered seedlings at the root with preliminary wetting of the soil with water.
  2. 2 weeks after the first feeding - use the same fertilizers in the same proportions, but based on 0.5 l of water.
  3. 2 weeks before landing on the site - use nitrate (3 g), superphosphate (5 g) and potassium fertilizer (8 g) per 1 liter of water.

Lighting

Cabbage for normal growth requires daylight hours 12-15 hours. Luminescent, phyto- or LED lamps are used as a source of additional illumination. They are set over seedlings at a height of 20–25 cm.

It is not recommended to use incandescent lamps as a backlight element, since they not only emit light, but also heat the air.

Cabbage seedlings need daylight 12-15 hours, for which use additional lighting

Pick

Only those seedlings that were seeded in seedling boxes are subjected to picking. If seedlings are grown in separate containers, then they have enough space for normal development. Seeding is started 10 days after emergence. You need to understand that this is a painful process for plants, since the root system is partially damaged. Consider how to properly transplant seedlings in a separate container (cups, pots):

  1. Pre-water the seedlings, moistening the soil well.

    Before picking, cabbage seedlings are well shed with water

  2. Carefully extract the plants, holding them by the cotyledon leaves.

    To extract the seedlings of cabbage, use a spatula with which to carefully separate the sprout with a lump of earth

  3. We examine the roots and shorten 1/3 too long with scissors.
  4. We fill the landing tank with soil substrate (of the same composition as for sowing), in which we make a recess corresponding to the length of the root.

    The capacity for cabbage seedlings is filled with soil mixture, leaving a hole for the seedlings in the center

  5. We deepen the seedlings to the level of cotyledon leaves, sprinkle with soil and lightly compact.

    When diving cabbage seedlings, the sprout must be deepened to the level of cotyledon leaves

  6. We make abundant watering and remove the plants in a dark place for 2 days.

Since pathogenic microorganisms can enter the root processes during diving, after removing the seedling from the seedling box, it is recommended to dip it into a weak solution of potassium permanganate (1 drop per 1 liter of water).

Video: pickled cabbage on the example of broccoli

Seedling hardening

2 weeks before the planting of cabbage seedlings on the plant site must be hardened. This is done so that they adapt to the maximum environment. The seedlings are taken out to the veranda, balcony or to the garden, first for 1 hour, then gradually increasing the time spent. By the time of planting, plants should be outdoors around the clock. In addition, a week before transplanting, they begin to reduce watering, preventing seedlings from withering.

In order for cabbage seedlings to adapt to external conditions, it must first be hardened

Landing

A well-lit area is chosen for cabbage, and they are prepared in advance:

  • remove weeds and other plant debris;
  • 6–8 kg of compost or rotted manure and 100 g of wood ash per 1 m² are made for digging.

Planting pattern depends on the species and variety:

  • early varieties - 35 × 45 cm;
  • mid-season - 60 × 60 cm;
  • late - 70 × 70 cm.

The optimal conditions for planting seedlings in open ground are cloudy weather. Landing tanks must first be watered. The process consists of the following steps:

  1. Shallow holes are made under the seedlings and spilled with water (at least 1 liter).

    Wells for seedlings of cabbage make the size of the root system of plants, taking into account the earthen coma

  2. Carefully remove the plants from the cups together with an earthen lump and lay them in prepared holes.

    Carefully remove the seedlings of cabbage from the cups together with an earthen lump and lay them in the holes

  3. The seedlings are deepened to the level of the first real leaves, sprinkled with earth and watered.

    Cabbage seedlings are deepened to the level of the first real leaves, sprinkled with earth and watered

Within a few days after planting, it is necessary to shade the plants from the sun and spray with water in the evening.

Methods for growing cabbage seedlings

Many garden crops are grown in seedlings. The most common option for gardeners is seedlings or separate containers. However, in the conditions of the apartment it is not so easy to provide the necessary conditions for plants, especially with a large number of seedlings. Therefore, recently, new methods of cultivating seedlings have been used more and more often, which can reduce labor costs, reduce the occupied area without any damage to the quality of seedlings. Consider these methods in more detail.

In peat tablets

To eliminate damage to the roots of cabbage seedlings during a dive, seedlings can be grown in peat tablets, which contain all the necessary nutrients. Until the plants are planted on the site, they will not need additional nutrition. The sequence of actions when growing seedlings in tablets is as follows:

  1. Choose tablets with a diameter of at least 4 cm, put them in a container of suitable size and fill them with warm water (50 ° C) to swell.

    For cabbage, peat tablets with a diameter of at least 4 cm are selected and poured with warm water in a suitable container

  2. After increasing the volume of tablets 7-8 times, all excess water is drained, and 2 seeds are laid out in the recess, after which they are covered with peat.

    In the swollen tablets spread the seeds of cabbage and cover with peat

  3. The container with tablets is transferred to a bright place with a temperature of + 18–20 ° C and kept under such conditions until emergence.
  4. After germination, a weaker germ is removed by cutting under the root.

    After sprouting cabbage seeds, a weaker sprout is removed by cutting it to the root

If the roots sprouted through the tablet, the seedlings are transplanted into the planting container with the tablet, freeing it from the form-holding material.

In the "snail"

An undoubted advantage of seedlings in the “snail” is the small footprint: about 15 seedlings can be grown in one roll, and its size is comparable to the average pot. In addition, the soil mixture for this method will require much less than when planting in a standard way. Shoots in the "snail" are lit evenly and do not interfere with each other to develop. One of the common materials for this method of obtaining seedlings is a substrate under the laminate. The landing process consists of the following steps:

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  1. The material is cut into strips 20 cm wide and about 1 m long.

    For the manufacture of "snails" cut the substrate under the laminate into strips 20 cm wide and 1 m long

  2. On the substrate, moist soil is poured with a layer of 3 cm, 3 cm also recede from the edges and the seeds are laid out in the upper part of the future “snail” with an interval of 10 cm.

    On the substrate, moist soil is poured and seeds are laid in the upper part of the future “snail”

  3. Roll the material into a roll, using an elastic band for bonding, then cover it with a plastic bag and transfer it to heat (+ 20–25 ˚С) for germination.

    Roll the material into a roll, fasten with an elastic band, then cover with a plastic bag and transfer to heat

  4. The "snail" is regularly ventilated and moistened, and after emergence, the package is removed.
  5. During transplanting seedlings into the soil, the roll is deployed and the seedlings are removed along with the ground.

Video: growing seedlings in the "snail" on the example of pepper

In the "diapers"

A fairly simple way to grow cabbage seedlings is in "diapers." In this case, you need plastic bags of 20 × 30 cm or pieces of film, as well as a soil mixture. It is recommended to moisten the soil and add a small amount of sawdust for better formation. Then perform the following steps:

  1. A lump of soil is laid on polyethylene and a tube is formed.
  2. After wrapping, a cup with moist soil without a bottom is obtained.
  3. Such containers are placed in a pallet with sawdust.
  4. In the cups, a toothpick makes indentations of 1 cm and spread 2 seeds in case one does not germinate.
  5. The tray with cups is wrapped in a plastic bag and placed in a dark and warm place for germination.
  6. When sprouts appear, the package is removed and the box is placed on the windowsill, providing normal lighting.
  7. When cotyledonous leaves appear, seedlings are taken out to the greenhouse or to the loggia, since cabbage seedlings do not like heat and low humidity.

    Sowing cabbage seedlings in "diapers" saves space

  8. As the soil dries, it is moistened from a spray bottle.
  9. Landing is carried out in accordance with the terms for their region.

Video: growing seedlings in "diapers" on the example of cucumbers

Growing seedlings without land

Landless cultivation of cabbage seedlings, which is also called the Moscow method or “self-rolled”, greatly simplifies the production of seedlings and their picking in a permanent place. With this method, landing tanks and soil are not needed. The lack of contact between seedlings and the ground at the beginning of the development of plants eliminates the occurrence of diseases: such seedlings do not have a black leg. Аналогично другим современным способам, безземельный вариант позволяет экономить пространство и разместить большее количество посадочных ёмкостей с растениями, предпочитающими тепло.

Для такого способа понадобятся трёхслойная туалетная бумага, поддон для укладки самокруток, пищевая плёнка и семена. Весь процесс сводится к следующим действиям:

  1. Плёнку нарезаем на полоски, равные ширине туалетной бумаги, длина при этом должна составлять около 40–50 см.
  2. На ровной поверхности раскладываем плёнку, сверху помещаем бумагу и смачиваем её водой.

    Водой бумагу лучше смачивать из резиновой груши или пульверизатора, чтобы она не порвалась

  3. Отступаем от края 2 см и раскладываем семена с интервалом 4–5 см по длине бумаги. Для удобства можно использовать пинцет.
  4. После посева семена накрываем слоем бумаги, смачиваем её, а сверху укладываем полоску плёнки.
  5. Скручиваем получившийся «бутерброд», стараясь сделать ровные края, скрепляем резинкой и ставим в поддон (семенами вверх), добавив немного воды.

    «Самокрутки» с семенами занимают намного меньше места, чем обычная рассада

  6. Надеваем сверху полиэтиленовый пакет и делаем отверстия для вентиляции.

    Надеваем на «самокрутки» сверху полиэтиленовый пакет и делаем отверстия для вентиляции

При посеве капусты нескольких сортов сразу помечайте их, например, сделав маркером надпись на «самокрутке».

После того как появятся ростки, пакет снимают. Во время выращивания рассады нужно дважды выполнить подкормки: в период прорастания семян и когда образуется первая пара настоящих листочков. Для подпитки лучше использовать такие препараты, как Гуми-20, Идеал и им подобные. При пикировке аккуратно разматываем «самокрутку», извлекаем саженцы вместе с бумагой и сажаем их в ёмкости, наполненные почвенной смесью.

Видео: выращивание рассады без земли

Болезни и вредители рассады капусты

Выращивание рассады капусты практически невозможно без каких-либо нюансов, связанных с появлением болезней и вредителей. Для того чтобы вовремя отреагировать на ту или иную проблему, нужно уметь распознавать её и принимать правильные меры.

Disease

К наиболее распространённым заболеваниям саженцев капусты относят чёрную ножку, пероноспороз, фузариоз и другие.

Blackleg

Грибковая инфекция, которая поражает стебель и корневую систему растения. Основной признак — почерневшая корневая шейка саженца, её истончение, а затем пересыхание. Благоприятными условиями для развития этого заболевания являются:

  • высокая влажность,
  • тёплая почва,
  • загущённые посадки,
  • кислая почва,
  • отсутствие потока воздуха между растениями.

Для определения кислотности почвы используют специальный прибор или индикаторные полоски (pH-тест). Капусте необходим уровень кислотности в пределах pH 6–8.

Чтобы предотвратить развитие чёрной ножки, необходимо соблюдать правила выращивания рассады:

  • подготовить грунт с нужным уровнем кислотности;
  • не переувлажнять почву;
  • избегать загущённых посадок;
  • проводить обработку семян и грунта перед посевом.

Чёрная ножка — наиболее распространённое заболевание рассады капусты, при котором в прикорневой зоне стебля образуется потемнение

Если болезнь всё же поразила растения, можно прибегнуть к следующим способам борьбы с ней:

  • удалить повреждённый росток из рассадного ящика вместе с земляным комом;
  • пересадить здоровые насаждения в новый обеззараженный грунт, а больные вместе с землёй выбросить;
  • провести обработку здоровых растений раствором медного купороса, бордоской жидкостью либо марганцовкой;
  • внести в почву соду (1 чайная ложка на 1 стакан воды).

Powdery mildew

Симптомы заражения рассады мучнистой росой — появление белых пятен на саженцах. Мучнистая роса хоть и не считается серьёзным заболеванием, особенно для взрослых насаждений, но молодым может нанести вред, поэтому растения следует обработать. Одним из лучших вариантов для этих целей является Фитоспорин-М.

При мучнистой росе на растениях появляются белые пятна, которые могут нанести вред молодым саженцам капусты

Пероноспороз

При пероноспорозе листья повреждаются и преждевременно отмирают. Болезнь также возникает при несоблюдении условий выращивания рассады. Для борьбы с заболеванием можно пользоваться раствором медного купороса, жидкого мыла либо фунгицидами по типу Топаза (1 столовая ложка любого из перечисленных средств на 10 воды).

Пероноспороз возникает при несоблюдении условий выращивания рассады капусты

Альтернариоз

Грибковое заболевание поражает как взрослые, так и молодые растения, проявляется в виде чёрных пятен на листьях. Когда кочан сформирован, пятна покрывают наружные листья, на которых можно наблюдать налёт, похожий на сажу — это и есть споры грибка. Для профилактики заболевания семена перед посадкой обрабатывают Планризом, соблюдают правила севооборота. Если рассада все же была поражена альтернариозом, следует использовать такие препараты, как Скор, Квадрис.

Альтернариоз капусты проявляется в виде чёрных патен на семядолях, а после на наружных листьях

Фузариозное увядание

Фузариозным увяданием страдает не только капуста, но и другие крестоцветные культуры. Определить, что растения поражены этим грибковым заболеванием, можно по жёлтым пятнам на листьях с их последующим усыханием и отмиранием. На более взрослых растениях формируется маленькая и деформированная головка кочана. Если на грядке было обнаружено поражённое растение, его нужно убрать и утилизировать, а место посадки обработать такими средствами, как Беномил, Текто, Топсин-М.

При фузариозном увядании капусты наблюдается пожелтение листвы с последующим усыханием и отмиранием

Кила

О появлении этого заболевания на растении говорят следующие признаки:

  • листья сохнут и вянут;
  • на корешках формируются наросты в виде клубней.

Поражённый саженец необходимо удалить из почвы вместе с корнем и сжечь. Причина появление килы на капусте — тяжёлая и кислая почва, т. е. несоответствие грунта для этой культуры.

О заражении капусты килой можно судить по пожелтению и увяданию листьев по краям, остановке в развитии кочана

Вредители рассады

Вредители могут нанести не меньший вред молодым растениям, поэтому с ними необходима своевременная и правильная борьба.

Aphid

Капустная тля — мелкие насекомые, которые повреждают листья культуры. Судить о поражении растения этим вредителем можно по белому или бурому налёту на листьях с их последующим скручиванием. Бороться с тлей можно разными средствами:

  • отвар листьев табака,
  • инсектицидное мыло,
  • Дельтаметрин.

Тля на капусте поражает листья, что приводит к их скручиванию

Капустная моль

Вредитель представляет собой бабочку, которая питается соком растений. Наибольший вред саженцам наносят гусеницы: они съедают листья, завязи и стебли. В результате такого повреждения нарушается обмен веществ у листьев, а в жаркую погоду они получают ожоги от солнца. После поедания завязей будущий урожай заметно сокращается. Из химических средств для борьбы с вредителем можно использовать Децис, Актеллик, Рипкорд. Нужно собирать гусениц и яиц с растений, пропалывать сорняки. Существуют также народные рецепты, однако такую обработку надо повторять несколько раз для достижения эффекта:

  • раствор древесной золы (2 стакана золы и 1 стакан измельчённого хозяйственного мыла на 10 л воды), которым проводят опрыскивание растений;
  • настой чистотела или полыни (измельчённые кустики разводят кипятком в пропорции 1/5 и настаивают полчаса).

Гусеница капустной моли съедает листья, завязи и стебли капусты, что приводит к гибели растения

Крестоцветные блошки

Это мелкий жучок (2–4 мм), который отличается хорошей прыгучестью и объедает листья и стебли молодых растений, а личинки насекомых повреждают корешки рассады. При большом количестве блошек растение может погибнуть за несколько дней. Если насаждения и удастся спасти от жучка, то внешний вид будет испорчен. Поэтому профилактические меры рекомендуется принять заранее:

  • не допускать разрастания крестоцветных сорняков (пастушья сумка, сурепка, редька дикая);
  • проводить своевременно прополки, рыхление и подкормки;
  • осуществлять высадку капусты поблизости с растениями-фитонцидами.

Растения-фитонциды, к которым относятся календула, бархатцы, настурция, выделяют запах, отпугивающий крестоцветную блошку.

При нашествии вредителя прибегают к использованию таких препаратов, как Децис, Карбофос, Актара.

Крестоцветная блошка в больших количествах способна погубить капусту, объедая листья

Капустная муха

Самка насекомого откладывает яйца в прогретую землю возле растений, а вылупившиеся личинки повреждают корень саженцев, что приводит к их увяданию и гибели. Для борьбы используют химические средства Топаз, Землин, Искру, Карбофос или Ровикурт. Можно прибегнуть и к народным методам, например, развести в ведре воды 5 мл нашатырного спирта и полить капустные грядки.

При повреждении капустной мухой ростков капусты растения увядают и болеют

Капустная белянка

This pest is known to everyone as a cabbage (butterfly), but it is not she who poses a danger, but her caterpillars that eat cabbage leaves. The caterpillars are easily recognizable by their yellow-green color with transverse points on the body. The most effective way to deal with the pest is to inspect the cabbage leaves, the destruction of eggs and caterpillars. It is also advisable to inspect plants planted nearby cabbage. Various insecticides can be used against whitewash, but Fitoverm and Kinmiks are the most effective. You can cook mustard infusion:

  1. 100 g of dry powder pour 10 liters of hot water and leave for several days.
  2. Before use, dilute the solution in a 1: 1 ratio with water and spray the plants.

Caterpillars of cabbage whites eat cabbage leaves, often leaving only large veins

Growing problems

Cabbage is quite sensitive to growing conditions, as a result of which, with improper care, certain problems arise.

Seedlings stretched out

Drawing seedlings is not uncommon. There are usually several reasons for this problem:

  • lack of light;
  • heat;
  • excess nitrogen fertilizers in the soil.

    Cabbage seedlings stretch in low light

To ensure normal lighting, it is necessary not only to install an additional source, but also use reflective materials (white paper, foil). As for temperature, cabbage does not like heat and especially heat. Under inappropriate conditions, it does not just stretch, but completely dies. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure an appropriate temperature regime.

If plants receive an excess amount of nitrogen, then the leaves develop to the detriment of the root system. This suggests the need to stop replenishment with nitrogen until the seedlings are planted in the ground.

Seedlings do not grow

The reason cabbage seedlings do not grow at home is usually found in low humidity and high temperature. To ensure normal conditions, seedlings are best placed in a greenhouse, where it is much easier to create the necessary microclimate.

The lower part of the stem dries

The problem of drying the lower part of the stem is caused by a lack of moisture in the soil, thickened plantings and too dry air. All these factors indicate the need to create and maintain optimal conditions for young plants. Cabbage is a moisture-loving crop that requires regular and moderate watering, and if plantings are too thick, seedlings simply do not have enough moisture. In this case, the seedlings need to be thinned out and the stems lightly sprinkled with soil.

Cabbage - a moisture-loving culture

To increase the level of humidity, plants need to be sprayed periodically.

Seedlings will fade

There are situations when the leaves of young cabbage fade. The reason may be excessive watering and the lack of loosening of the soil, as a result of which a soil crust forms, through which the flow of oxygen to the roots is difficult. In this case, the roots of the plants rot and the leaves fade. In addition, it will be useful to examine the drainage holes of the landing tanks. If they clogged, then the water simply has nowhere to drain. The cause of wilting may also be due to inappropriate soil acidity.

The reason for the withering of cabbage seedlings can be caused by a lack of oxygen, a large amount of moisture in the soil or inappropriate acidity

Seedlings turn yellow

If the seedlings turn yellow, the reason is a lack or excess of fertilizers. If complex fertilizers are used for top dressing, then there is no need to use any other batteries. If the soil is oversaturated with fertilizers, it must be washed with a large amount of clean water with the possibility of free runoff. In extreme cases, seedlings can be transplanted into other soil.

With a lack of fertilizer, seedlings can also turn yellow. Find out which fertilizer is not enough, you can on the following grounds:

  • phosphorus deficiency - yellowing of leaves on the underside;
  • lack of potassium - yellowed leaf tips;
  • iron deficiency - leaves turn yellow all over the base.

Cabbage seedlings may turn yellow due to lack or excess of fertilizer

The yellowness of the seedlings can also be caused by the appearance of an infection, which was introduced along with the seeds. If the seed was processed in potassium permanganate, then this option can be excluded.

In order to grow healthy seedlings of cabbage, it is necessary to create optimal conditions for plants. Cultivation of the crop has its own nuances, but, observing the necessary rules and recommendations, as well as taking measures to combat diseases and pests, to grow it under the power of almost every gardener.

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