Fatsia: caring for a Japanese beauty at home

    Life in the bosom of nature is a pipe dream of many citizens. Indoor plants will help to approach its implementation; they create an aura of natural freshness. Moreover, the green corner in the apartment may be similar not only to the tropics, but also to our Central Russian forests. For example, Fatsia (or Japanese Aralia) will remind you of a chestnut or maple grove. Its large patterned leaves are very similar to the greens of your favorite trees. So that they turn green for a long time, you need to know the basics of caring for Fatsia at home.

    The origin of Fatsia, appearance and features of care

    Fatsia is a native of the Asian Southeast. This plant, which in nature reaches 5 meters in height, is common in Japan, Korea, Taiwan and New Zealand. In the natural environment, Fatsia is accustomed to a warm and humid summer, a cool, but frost-free, dry winter. She tolerates significant daily differences.

    Fatsia is a popular landscape plant in warm climates

    The plant is used for landscape gardening in regions with a subtropical climate. In Russia, Fatsia is grown in open ground on the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus and in the Crimea.

    In Japan, Fatsia is traditionally planted near houses on the north side. It is believed that the plant protects the inhabitants of the home from the evil spirits of the north.

    How aralia became Fatsia: the difficulties of classification

    Until the mid-19th century, no one knew the plant named Fatsia. The evergreen tree brought to Europe from Japan won the sympathy of flower growers under the name Japanese Aralia. Cirrus, large, glossy leaves and the relatively undemanding nature of the new plant liked many.

    Fatsia became a popular indoor plant almost 200 years ago

    Japanese aralia began to grow at home, using mainly for landscaping shaded areas. However, the botanists who studied the representatives of the large plant family Araliev, in 1854 decided to isolate a separate genus called Fatsy. It included only three species. Fatsii differ from the rest of the Aralia in the special structure of the leaf and inflorescence, and most importantly in that they are evergreen, not deciduous plants.

    Highlighted a new genus of Aralian French botanists Joseph Decan and Jules Planchon. They formed the name of the plant from the old Japanese word “Fatsi, ” which means the number 8. Thus, scientists noted the number of leaf blades. However, their number may be different. The young leaf is not divided into shares at all.

    The number of leaf blades of Fatsia varies with age, but there are no more than 9 of them

    Japanese Aralia at home

    In indoor floriculture, Fatsia has been grown for over 200 years. However, the plant, popular in the 19th century, has now lost ground to more exotic tropical flowers. Although Fatsia has many advantages. Unlike the Tropicans, it is able to put up with a lack of light, it does not need high humidity all year round, it grows quickly, and lush foliage is very effective and is not inferior in beauty to other plants.

    Fatsia is often called Japanese chestnut for leaf similarity.

    It is generally accepted that Fatsia is easy to care for. This plant "is generally very hardy and adapts to any conditions, " says Dr. Hession, the florist guru. He advises to give the flower fresh air, coolness and diffused light, then there will be no problems. True, he notes that there are some difficulties in the cultivation of Fatsia. According to Russian amateur gardeners, this plant is not as simple as it seems at first glance. It is especially difficult to adapt to watering; Fatsia almost equally does not accept either drought or overflow. But fans of chestnut green find an approach to the eastern plant and have already learned how to overcome difficulties. The most important thing, they admit, is regular and attentive care.

    Fatsia Russians often call home, or Japanese chestnut. Her crown, in fact, is like a chestnut, only grows much faster and retains greenery all year.

    Indoor Fatsia does not usually grow above 2 meters

    At home, Fatsia rarely grows above 2 meters. Over the years, the straight trunk is covered with bark. If the plant is not helped, it branches weakly. Fatsia has a fluffy crown, consisting of large leaves (up to 35 cm) of the original form. They are located on long petioles. At first, the rounded sheet is solid, over time it is divided into parts-blades with a pointed end, they can be from 5 to 9. The texture of the sheet plate is dense, glossy. The color is saturated green in the base form, there are variegated varieties with contrasting spots and edges. Openwork foliage is the main decoration of Fatsia.

    Flowering plants are not very bright, but the inflorescences-umbrellas are interesting in their own way.

    Flowers at home appear rarely and not too decorative. They, white or greenish, are collected in inflorescences-umbrellas. When polluted, blue-black berries are tied, but the seeds of Fatsia do not always ripen completely.

    Fatsia fruits remotely resemble chokeberry

    Fatsia juice is slightly toxic. In people with sensitive skin, it can cause an allergic reaction. Therefore, when transplanting and forming a plant, gloves should be worn, and then hands thoroughly washed.

    The mottled forms of Fatsia look very elegant, but more whimsical

    Fatsiya Japanese, its hybrids and varieties

    In indoor floriculture, only one species of Fatsia is cultivated - Japanese aralia, as well as its hybrid with ivy and various varieties.

    1. Fatsia (Japanese aralia or Siebold) is the base plant for other forms. Indoor grows up to 1.4 meters. A fast-growing shrub with large chestnut-like plain and shiny leaves. The plant is more hardy compared to variegated varieties.
    2. Moseri - compact Fatsia, growth of no more than half a meter. Petioles are shorter, due to this, a bush with a dense crown is formed. The leaves are dark green, glossy characteristic shape.
    3. Fatsia of the Spider's Web variety has large leaves of an unusual bluish-green color. They are decorated with silver-white spots along the veins.
    4. Fatsia Tsumugi Shibori is similar to Spider's Web. But in this variety, the spots are larger and larger, so that the white color prevails over the green.
    5. Fatsia Variegata is a plant with green foliage trimmed along the edges of an uneven cream or white stripe.
    6. Fatsia Annelise is a bright variety. Leaves with white veins, covered with golden yellow and light green stains.
    7. Murakumo Nishiki - Fatsia with leaves that seemed to be prepared for autumn, greenery pattern in light yellow with a lemon tint.
    8. Aureimarginatis is a Fatsia variety with green leaf blades framed by a gold-colored border.
    9. Argenteimarginatis is a variety of indoor chestnut with variegated leaves. They are green in the center, and decorated with a silver-white stripe around the edge.

    Varieties of indoor flower in the photo

    The Moseri variety is the smallest

    Variegated Fatsia with white-green leaves

    The leaves of this Fatsia are more white than green.

    Spiders Web - variety with original white painting

    Leaves of this Fatsia fall shades

    This variety is distinguished by leaves with a golden edge.

    A distinctive feature of this grade is a silver border.

    Annelise - a variety with brightly colored foliage

    Aralia, or Fatsia, Japanese is more unpretentious compared to the variegated varieties

    Fatsia + ivy = Fatshedera

    Fatshedera is a hybrid of Japanese Fatsia and a heder (common ivy). A plant appeared at the beginning of the 20th century with random crossing in the greenhouse of Nantes (France). This is an evergreen tall (up to 3 meters) shrub. Shiny leaves are smaller, no more than 18 cm. The plant is very unpretentious, can be a bush or curl on a support. Another difference from Fatsia is the number of leaf blades. Fatshedera has 5 of them, and the leaf resembles maple more, and at Fatsia - at least 7.

    Fatsia and ivy hybrid retained lobed leaves of the mother plant, but no more than five lobes

    Fans of experiments can create an original designer plant by combining two initial species - fatsia and ivy, as well as a hybrid - fatscheder. All of them respond well to vaccination.

    1. Take adult Fatsia at least 70 cm tall.
    2. Cut the stem with a sharp sterile knife at a level of 40–45 cm from the ground and split it.
    3. Insert the apical cutter of a fatsheder into a cleavage that is suitable in diameter, fix it with a special tape, masking tape, and a plaster.
    4. Wait for the plants to grow together and a new shoot will appear on the forehead.
    5. Cut off the shoot of the Fatscheder, split it and plant 3-4 stems of ivy.
    6. The result is a plant with a straight stem and large Fatsia leaves, in the middle part there will be smaller fatsheders, and a cascade of drooping ivy branches will crown the top.

    Video: acquaintance with Fatsiya Japanese, the basics of plant care

    Conditions for Fatsia: how to properly care for her (table)

    SpringDiffused bright light. Green species can grow in partial shade, but more slowly. Variegated need more intense lighting. The best place is north windows or away from windows in the east and west. From the direct sun it is necessary to shade. Increased, 60–70%.

    Spray the plant. Wipe dust off the leaves with a damp cloth to breathe better. It is useful to take a shower, cover the soil with a waterproof film during the procedure.

    Moderate, 20-23 degrees. He does not tolerate heat well.

    Not afraid of changes in day and night temperatures.

    But it is necessary to protect from a draft.

    SummerYou can send to the balcony, porch or garden. But put only in the shade of other plants. The hot sun is destructive for large Fatsia leaves.
    Fall Diffused light, partial shade is acceptable.

    When the content is warm, it is necessary to increase the duration of daylight hours artificially.

    Slightly elevated, moderate. Keep Fatsia away from radiators.

    The lower the temperature, the lower the humidity.

    Wipe the leaves from dust.

    You can sometimes refresh a Fatsia with a spray or shower.

    WinterCool, + 15-17, below 10 is not permissible. Variegated forms need warmer air, for them a destructive temperature of less than +16.

    Fatsia and Florariums

    Demanding to the conditions of detention, plants can be grown in a home greenhouse - florarium. It is easy to create a humid atmosphere and a microclimate with a constant temperature there. Compact fatsia bushes Moseri are suitable for open florarium. It can be a transparent container, for example, an aquarium. But next to him it is necessary to place flowers with the same needs so that there are no difficulties in leaving.

    Fatsia grows too fast, so it is inconvenient to grow in the florarium

    Large specimens of Fatsia cannot be placed in a small aquarium garden. For them, the so-called green showcase or window will be more appropriate. It looks transparent "aviary" filled with green inhabitants, very original and decorative. But such a structure is not easy to do. You will need equipment for watering, ventilation, lighting and bottom heating. And in the green window of a rapidly growing Fatsia it will not be very comfortable, she needs a lot of space for development. It is much easier to provide the plant with the necessary conditions in the wild.

    Transplant: soil, drainage and pot

    Fatsia for the active growth of beautiful leaves requires nutritious and at the same time loose and porous, slightly acidic or neutral soil. Variants of the soil mixture:

    • universal soil with the addition of coconut fiber and vermiculite;
    • 2 shares of turf land, one share of sand, peat and humus land;
    • equally leafy land, horse peat, split bark mixed with chopped moss and half a fraction of perlite or coarse sand.

    A pot for a young plant that has not yet gained weight is easy to choose. Almost any one will do, you just need to be guided by the rule: the diameter of the new tank should be 3-4 cm larger than the old one. Opt for a tall rather than wide pot. So it will be more convenient to place a drainage layer, which should occupy about a third of the height. Ceramic containers, especially for tall fatsii, will be better than plastic. It is heavier, and a flower with a massive crown will not tip over.

    High Fatsii are best grown in ceramic containers, they will not allow the flower to tip over

    Young Fatsii need an annual pot change. They quickly gain green mass, and therefore grow out of the old tank. With age, transplantation, or more correctly, transshipment, is performed at the request of the plant when its roots become crowded. The earthen lump is not destroyed, preserving it entirely from below and removing some soil from above.

    Transplant fatsia

    1. Sterilize the soil substrate, drainage and pot before planting.
    2. Pour a drainage layer (about 1/3 of the volume) to the bottom of the pot (large expanded clay, broken brick, gravel, vermiculite).
    3. Carefully remove the plant from the old pot, being careful not to sprinkle the earthen lump.
    4. Inspect the roots, if there are damaged, remove them.
    5. Put the earth lump in a new container in the center. If necessary, place a support nearby.
    6. Gently fill in new soil and ram it lightly.
    7. Water the plant, put in a permanent place, spray.
    8. A transplant for Fatsia is stressful, and moist air helps to adapt.
    9. If you are planting young plants, you can place several bushes in one pot. So the flower will be more decorative.

    Every year, Fatsiya transplantation becomes more and more difficult. Therefore, sometimes only change the top layer (5-6 cm) of soil in the pot. Humus or other nutrient components are necessarily added to the new earth for nutrition.

    From the store

    When choosing a fatsia in a store, pay attention to the condition of the leaves. They, as an indicator, reflect the well-being of the plant. Leaflets directed downward, hanging, show that the plant is unhealthy, it is improperly looked after. Returning them to their normal horizontal or elevated position will be difficult or impossible. Therefore, refuse to buy such a plant. Examine Fatsia for pests.

    These fatsii are healthy, their leaves are cheerfully raised

    Florists recommend buying small copies of Fatsiy. They will cost less. And the flower will grow quickly.

    At home, let the Fatsia take root, quarantine it. And after 2-3 weeks, transplant into a suitable pot and soil. During the transplant, inspect the roots, cut off the unusable ones and try to remove the old soil as much as possible.

    How to help a flower grow properly: support for a home chestnut

    In nature, Fatsia does without support. But at home, the plant often needs support. A rather thin stem is not always able to hold a weighty crown. The flower grower must take care of the support in advance, otherwise the plant will be bent, and it is unlikely to correct the situation. Fatsia shoots are not elastic. If you notice that the stem of the plant has deviated from the vertical, it's time to take action.

    A tall plant needs reliable support, it is better to install it in a pot in advance

    Fatsia can be supported by bamboo sticks or coconut-wrapped posts that can be found in flower shops. Or make a support structure with your own hands. Most importantly, it should not interfere with leaf growth and be stable.

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    Video: Japanese Aralia transplant

    All About Fatsia Home Care

    Fatsia is both hardy and demanding to leave. She will tolerate some problems with lighting and temperature, ready to transfer dry air. But watering should be extremely careful, without excessive dryness and waterlogging, otherwise the plant will not restore the leaves or completely die.

    Fatsia likes neither over-dried nor flooded soil

    Still for Fatsia the purity of leaves is important. This procedure does not just add beauty to its crown, but heals. Pure leaves provide the plant with respiration and nutrition, and prevent pests. Wipe the Fatsia foliage regularly with a damp cloth, and they usually don’t need polishing, they have a natural gloss.

    About watering and top dressing

    Large Fatsia leaves evaporate a lot of moisture and grow actively from spring to autumn. At this time, the plant requires drinking a lot and often. If you forget about watering and dry the soil in the pot only once, the foliage will sadly drop. And after you pour Fatsia, she will not have enough strength to raise them. We'll have to help the plant: tie the leaves on a support so that they are horizontal.

    This Fatsia clearly suffers from watering shortages

    But due to waterlogging of the soil, Fatsia suffers no less. This usually happens in winter, when the plant reduces water consumption, and the grower continues to pour it. Undigested moisture leads to rot, leaf plates lose their elasticity, wither, turn yellow and die.

    So when watering, keep a reasonable balance, given the life cycle of Fatsia. In the warm season - more in the cold - less. Water with soft water, only after checking the condition of the soil, remove the excess from the pan.

    During the growth of Fatsia, feed with mineral complexes so that the plant does not deplete. Any liquid fertilizer for decorative leaf flowers will do. Apply them with irrigation water 2-3 times a month.

    About flowering

    Fatsia is grown because of its patterned and vibrant foliage. Flowering is an added bonus for an assiduous grower. In room conditions, inflorescences appear infrequently. By the way, there is an opinion that they should be removed in their infancy so that the plant does not waste strength. But no particular harm from the flowers was noticed. But lace brushes still add some charm.

    Blooming Fatsia Looks Pretty

    Fatsia throws flower stalks at the tops of shoots, then spherical inflorescence brushes appear, consisting of small flowers, white or yellow-greenish. If you do not remove them, after successful pollination, Fatsia will reward you with dark blue fruits.

    About the rest period

    Fatsia, like most plants, prefers to relax in the winter. With the advent of colds, it slows down all life processes. Moisture and nutrition are spent very sparingly, a new shoot almost does not appear. So, top dressing should be stopped, and watering should be significantly reduced. However, over-dried soil should not be.

    The florist should take into account that the Japanese beauty prefers to relax at low temperatures. Ideally, it’s enough + 15-17 degrees, but for colorful forms not less than +16, for green forms up to +10. If the winter is cool, you should not spray the plant. If the temperature is higher than recommended, moisten the foliage and air.

    The variegated varieties of Fatsia need a slightly warmer wintering

    At rest, especially in combination with high temperature, Fatsia welcomes an abundance of light. It can be placed closer to the window or installed next to artificial light sources. Incandescent lamps will not bring benefit, they only warm the air. You will need a fluorescent, LED backlight or special phytolamps.

    About the formation

    Fatsia reluctantly branches itself, if you do not touch it, it will grow in the form of a stem with long petioles and large leaves. Over time, the lower ones will inevitably grow old and die, and the trunk will be exposed. Get a crown on top, like a palm tree.

    In order for the crown of Fatsia to be magnificent, it is necessary to pinch the tops of the shoots of the plant

    But if you regularly carry out the formation, pinching the tops of the shoots, the side buds will begin to develop. They will give new twigs, and Fatsia will become a fluffy bush. Pinching is done throughout the year. On the eve of the spring awakening, you can perform sanitary pruning, remove weak, lacking decorative shoots.

    Also, for large leaves of variegated coloring, it is popular with flower growers of a ctenant. You can learn about how to care for this plant from the material: rastenija / ktenanta-kak-uxazhivat-za-krasavicej-iz-brazilii-v-domashnix-usloviyax.html

    About care errors (table): why leaves fade or turn yellow, other problems do not bloom

    The leaves became soft and drooping.
    1. Over-dried soil.
    2. Excessive watering.
    1. If the soil is dry, immerse the plant. Tie the drooping leaves to the supports, giving them a horizontal position. Spray the crown. After that, you can put on the bag to maintain moisture.
    2. Adjust the watering mode. If the overflow is very strong, try changing the soil. Keep a reasonable balance.
    Leaves dry from the tips and then break.Too dry air.Spray the plant more often. Give him a shower. Place an open water tank, humidifier, or fountain nearby.
    Leaves frown.Low humidity or excess sun.Take measures to moisten the air. Get Fatsia out of the sun.
    Yellowing leaves, with time they fall.Waterlogging the soil.Adjust the watering mode. If the condition is critical, change the soil, check the condition of the roots. Detect rot - heal.
    The plant slowed or stunted.Close pot, poor soil.If the roots sprouted into the drainage holes, it's time to change the pot.
    Variegated leaves become evenly green.
    1. Not enough light.
    2. Scarce soil.
    1. Provide diffused but bright light year-round. In winter, colorful shapes need backlighting.
    2. Feed Fatsia during active growth.
    Leaflets become smaller, the distances between nodes become larger.

    Video: about some care errors

    Diseases, pests, preventive measures and treatment methods (table)

    How is it expressed?Who or what harms?Treatment and methods of strugglePreventative measures
    Leaves in yellowish spots and dots, sometimes there is a white web. Foliage dies.Infection with a spider mite.Spray with an insecticide, fitofarm, derris will do. Inspect the plant regularly to detect pests and take action in a timely manner.

    Moisturize Fatsia leaves more often.

    Maintain high air humidity, ventilate the room, harmful insects breed in dry and stuffy rooms.

    The leaves fade, green larvae are clearly visible from below, and whitish tiny butterflies fly around.A whitefly settled on a flower.
    1. Spill the soil with a solution of actara (1 g per 10 liters of water) at least three times, with a break of a week, to kill all the larvae.
    2. Treat with confidor. Sprinkle the plant, then put on top of the bag and hold it overnight. Note: the drug has an unpleasant odor.
    The leaves turn pale, curl up, the stems are deformed.

    Tiny insects are noticeable.

    Aphid attacked.
    1. Remove the affected shoots.
    2. Wash the leaves with soap and water.
    3. In case of severe damage, use insecticides (actellic).
    Brown hard spots on the underside of the leaves along the veins. Leaves brighten and die.Exposure to scale insects.Remove the pest manually; adult chemical pests are not afraid. After treat the plant with an insecticide solution. Carry out the treatment until the pest is completely destroyed.
    Dark rotting spots appear on the leaves and stems, often below.Gray rot.When the rot only affected the plant, you can try to cure it.
    1. Cut and root healthy apical cuttings.
    2. Examine the root system, if it is healthy, and the trunk is not rotten near the soil itself, cut it off.
    3. Powder the cut with charcoal, gray.
    4. Spray the stump with a stimulant and cover with a bag. Perhaps the kidneys will wake up on it.

      In case of significant damage, discard the plant and treat it with the fungicide of its neighbors.

    Waterlogging of the soil is the main cause of fungal diseases. And stale air helps their development. To avoid infection, adjust the watering and ventilate the room more often.

    Hold new plants in quarantine.

    The plant loses its tone, withers, but the soil is moist.Root rot.
    1. Make a diagnosis - get the plant out of the pot, examine the roots.
    2. If everyone is softened and darkened, it’s too late to treat.
    3. If most of the roots are white and springy, heal.
    4. Rinse off all soil under the tap.
    5. Cut off all affected roots with a knife. Remove wilted leaves and shoots.
    6. Plant in a new pot and fresh soil.
    7. Spill a solution of fungicide (phytosporin, carbendazim).
    8. Place in a warm and bright place, without bright sun.


    You can get new Fatsii vegetatively and seeds. There are two vegetative methods: apical cuttings and layering.


    Cuttings of Fatsia are carried out before spring awakening, it can be combined with pruning, or in the summer.

    1. Cut the tops of the shoots with 2-3 buds.
    2. Dip the slices in a stimulant solution (epin, zircon).
    3. Prepare a sand-peat substrate, pour it into a greenhouse or cups, moisten.

      Rooting needs poor and light soil

    4. Deepen the cuttings in the substrate.
    5. Cover the greenhouse with a lid and cups in bags.
    6. Put in a warm (+ 23–26) and bright place.
    7. Humidify and ventilate periodically.

      Ventilate and moisten cuttings

    8. Cuttings usually quickly give root.
    9. After rooting, transplant young plants into pots with nutritious soil.


    This method is suitable if the plant is too long, and its stem is bare.

    1. In the spring, make a circular incision on the trunk.
    2. Wrap this place with wet moss, you can soak it with a stimulant, and cover with plastic wrap on top or put on a glass.
    3. Keep the moss moist.
    4. After 4-6 weeks, roots form at the incision site.
    5. Let them grow stronger, after a month and a half, cut the trunk just below the new roots.
    6. Plant the plant in a suitable pot.
    7. Cut the remaining trunk and cover with wet moss.
    8. Water it so that the side shoots begin to grow.


    Fatsia seeds with certain efforts can be obtained at home. But most often they give low germination, because they do not mature fully. You can purchase seed in the store. Just take into account the short shelf life of Fatsia seeds. And to grow this plant from seedlings is difficult.

    1. Sowing campaign begin in March. Prepare a soil substrate from equal parts of leaf soil and sand.
    2. Check seed quality before planting. Throw them in the water. Those that have surfaced are not suitable for sowing. Plant only those that have sunk to the bottom.
    3. Seed the seeds to a depth of 0.5 cm in a moist substrate.
    4. Cover the greenhouse, put in a warm (+25) place.
    5. When 2-3 young leaves appear, plant the seedlings in pots (5-7 cm in diameter).
    6. Over the summer, transfer them two to three times in larger pots and nutritious soil.

    Video: Fatsia propagation by cuttings

    Fatsia Growing Reviews

    An adult purchase Fatsia grows and spike in full swing, recently replanted, and again the pot is too small. And yet I constantly make sure that the plants are also of a different nature, like people. My fatsiya on the balcony I won’t say that it faded, but it was somehow unhappy, but I brought it into the house, immediately refreshed it and began to produce and grow new leaves. And she stands about a meter from the window, and even a glazed balcony is outside the window. And O. Ganichkina claims that "Fatsia easily transfers a transplant to a larger pot at any time of the year, this is verified." Well, the truth is, she claimed that “Fatsia is easy to grow from seeds, ” but not one has come from me. So you never guess ..


    At my work, Fatsia was about to die. In the beginning of summer it was such a good one, and then the leaves became covered with rusty spots, they became dull and lifeless and didn’t grow at all, we don’t know what to do, it’s a pity a little stretching .... and watered twice a week, so that the land dries up. Sin on the computer, Fatsia immediately stood behind him, we removed it from there and imagine a week later a new leaf appeared ... came to life ....... ..


    I didn’t have a relationship with Fatsia for a long time ((I ruined a couple of them anyway .... I grew it from a small basal process that grew for a long time “in a cap” ...


    There was a gorgeous bush, which suddenly began to wither, the leaves dry, fall off, in general horror. Then I found (as I thought) the reason for this behavior of the plant .... a spider mite. I discerned Fatsyu from this muck - and it seems that the plant began to come to life ... ..new leaves came, all that ... but soon, I noticed that the leaves were drying out at the very early stage of “unfolding”, so to speak ... I did not reveal the reason. The leaves dried and dried .... The plant first stood on a bright but northern window, then moved to the southern window with shading .... nothing helped .... Now the plant is growing in an office on the western window. It does not shine with fluffiness and beauty, but in principle it grows ... it does not dry leaves anymore. Watering with standing water once a week .... on hot summer days 2 times a week. Top dressing spring-summer (occasionally, because in the office there is especially no time to do this). That's all. Her soil for palm trees + universal in half.


    And my neighbor flooded Fatsia with my kindness, I touched the earth with my finger from above - dry, and inside the earth was damp. :( So sorry! But it’s my fault too - I bought a big pot (I liked the suitable one, with Japanese motives). I lived Fatsia for a year, grew very well in the summer on a glazed loggia. And she was not particularly demanding in the light, she lived in the kitchen, away from the window, grew and grew itself, but ... :( Now I want to buy a new one.


    Fatsia is very good at light. I bought mine at the end of October, it stands on the refrigerator at the window, and about a month and a half ago I did something like an incubator over this warm place: I attached a light, so Fatsia trampled out all possible and impossible kidneys, I don’t know, she wasn’t in the form of a tree, i.e. six shoots came from the earth, so now it's just something! I'm afraid it will fall off this refrigerator soon. But I already fed her slowly Ideal once ...


    I had Fatsia, and to this day lives with my mother. The root of her, like all major Araliaevs - just have time to transship. Look at the bottom of the pot - probably the roots already come from all the cracks ... Another signal that the transplant is needed is that the earth dries out very quickly. And the lower leaves turn yellow and hang from old age. For this, I fell out of love with her. They also write that the leaves descend from a single drying of an earthen coma and do not return to their original state. It is so indeed. But even if you don’t dry it - the lower leaves still lose their decorativeness over time ... In general, the plant is powerful - if you give it free rein, it grows very quickly.


    Fatsia fits perfectly into any interior. Its patterned and openwork leaves in the cold winter will remind you of summer landscapes. It is growing rapidly and relatively undemanding to conditions. But this plant is suitable only for attentive flower growers who are ready to pay attention to their pets. Fatsia leaves will quickly indicate errors in care. And if you constantly test it for strength, a bright crown will not recover. With careful and reasonable care, Fatsia will live happily ever after.


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