F1 Fiesta Broccoli: What You Need to Know About Hybrid Growing

Broccoli is the closest "relative" of cauliflower, which has long and successfully been cultivated by Russian gardeners. In terms of taste and health benefits, it surpasses the usual culture, but broccoli is still far from its popularity, although it is unpretentious and frost-resistant. Breeders are constantly releasing new hybrids with improved features. Among them are broccoli Fiesta F1, which appeared on the market at the end of the twentieth century.

What does Fiesta F1 broccoli look like?

Fiesta F1 - a worldwide popular broccoli hybrid, the originator is the famous Dutch company Bejo Zaden BV The hybrid entered the Russian State Register at the end of the 20th century. It is recommended for cultivation in personal garden plots without specifying a specific region.

The homeland of broccoli is the Mediterranean coast. Moreover, it is successfully cultivated in the post-Soviet space. Even young seedlings are not threatened with death when the temperature drops to -10ºС. The optimal indicator for its development is 18–24ºС. Accordingly, broccoli can be cultivated not only in the European part of Russia, but also in the Urals, Siberia, and the Far East. Culture shows a certain “plasticity”, bringing crops in far from always favorable weather conditions. And long rains even benefit her. Broccoli is very suitable for high humidity and substrate. The fruiting period is extended in comparison with other varieties of cabbage - from each plant you can get not one, but two or even three crops.

F1 Fiesta broccoli is a relatively new hybrid that has already gained worldwide recognition among gardeners

Broccoli, like cauliflower, uses inflorescences as food. Although the Mediterranean cuisine uses its stems. They grow in a "bunch", quite dense, somewhat reminiscent of asparagus or green beans. Cut them off when they grow to 13–16 cm.

Fiesta F1 is a mid-ripening broccoli hybrid. From planting in the bed of seedlings to cutting heads takes 75-80 days. The plant is quite powerful, the rosette is as if elevated. The leaves are green with a bluish-blue tint, elongated, slightly dissected. Their surface is slightly “bubbly”, “corrugated”. The height of the outlet reaches 90 cm, the diameter of the head is 12-15 cm.

The average weight of this broccoli is 600–800 g, and individual specimens weighing 1.2–1.5 kg are also found. In shape, it is most often slightly flattened, although it can be almost round, moderately "tuberous." Color - dark green with a bluish-gray tint. It is not worth delaying the harvest - broccoli is suitable for food only until the flowers have blossomed (buds have turned yellow).

F1 Fiesta broccoli is not least appreciated for its palatability and appearance

Inflorescences are dense, juicy, palatability deserve only rave reviews. By the state register of the Russian Federation this hybrid is recommended for use in home cooking. Gourmets and professional chefs note a special tenderness of taste and a light nutty finish.

Fiesta F1 broccoli inflorescences are dense, stems can also be eaten

Among the undoubted advantages of the Fiesta F1 hybrid is the presence of “innate” immunity to such a culture-dangerous disease as fusarium. It stably brings a yield of about 3–3.5 kg / m² (or 240–350 kg per hectare), despite how lucky the gardener is with the weather in summer. Such indicators are achieved due to the fact that after cutting the main head, side ones begin to form. They, of course, are much smaller, but this does not affect the taste. Another hybrid is notable for its good keeping quality, portability and external presentability.

The lateral heads of the Fiesta F1 broccoli are formed on the stems left in the garden after the main crop

Like any other kind of broccoli, Fiesta F1 is extremely healthy. It is characterized by low calorie content, but at the same time, nutritional value and high content of vitamins and minerals necessary for a person. Of particular note are the presence of B, C vitamins (more than in citruses), E, ​​A, K, PP and U, as well as potassium, magnesium, iodine, calcium, phosphorus, iron, zinc, copper, selenium. In addition, broccoli is rich in fiber, proteins, amino acids (including essential ones). All this is easily absorbed by the body. If this cabbage is served as a side dish, it helps to digest heavier foods.

Nutritionists advise eating broccoli for any type of diabetes. It is scientifically proven that it helps lower insulin levels and blood sugar, clear blood vessels of cholesterol “plaques”. It is also needed by those who permanently reside in territories with not very favorable ecology. This cabbage helps to remove toxins, toxins, and even compounds of heavy and radioactive metals from the body.

Freshly squeezed broccoli juice is a storehouse of vitamins and minerals, it can be mixed with carrot and / or apple

It is best to eat fresh Fiesta F1 broccoli. Practice shows that with prolonged cooking or frying on a fire in a large amount of oil, almost all the benefits disappear. It can also be stewed and baked.

Stewed and baked broccoli is very good for health, but it is not recommended to cook it in the microwave

Broccoli is a hypoallergenic product. It is very useful for pregnant women, as it contains folic acid in large quantities, and small children. Broccoli puree is very suitable for starting feeding.

Broccoli is widely used by manufacturers of baby food, but mashed potatoes can also be made at home.

Video: What are broccoli good for?

Landing procedure and preparation for it

For a bed with broccoli, an open area well-warmed by the sun is selected. It is advisable that from the north from gusts of cold wind it would be protected by some natural or artificial barrier, without creating a shadow. The best predecessors for this crop are any green manure, potato, bean, onion, and garlic. And after other varieties of cabbage, Cruciferous, it can be planted no earlier than after 4-5 years.

Broccoli loves open sunny places, but does not respond very well to prolonged heat waves.

Soil Fiesta F1 prefers nutritious, but lightweight, well-permeable to water and air. Fertile loam or sandy loam is suitable for her. Powder clay is added to the too light substrate when preparing the beds, and sand to the heavy. To increase the fertility of the soil, humus or rotted compost is introduced (6–9 l per sowing bed). Of the fertilizers, simple superphosphate and potassium sulfate (40–50 g and 25–30 g per 1 p / m, respectively). For those who prefer their natural counterparts to mineral fertilizers, there is another option - sifted wood ash (0.5 l can). All preparatory work has been carried out since the fall.

Wood ash is a natural source of phosphorus and potassium

Broccoli will not grow in acidic soil. When the pH does not fit in the range 6.0–7.0, dolomite flour, powdered egg shells or slaked lime are distributed over the bed during digging. It is undesirable for groundwater to come closer to the surface than a meter. Otherwise, the roots of plants may begin to rot.

Dolomite flour - having no side effects when the dosage is deoxidized

Almost throughout Russia broccoli is grown by seedlings. This allows you to get a crop 2-3 weeks faster. In addition, in the Urals and Siberia, it is impossible to predict what the summer will be like in terms of weather. Perhaps the heads simply do not have enough time for aging.

To seedlings turned out to be strong and healthy, pre-seed seed preparation is mandatory. First, they are dipped for a quarter of an hour in hot (40–45ºС) water and immediately for several minutes in cold water. In order to avoid the occurrence of pathogenic fungi in the future, right before planting, the seeds are dipped for 6–8 hours in a raspberry potassium permanganate solution, wood ash infusion, or for a quarter hour they are kept in a solution of any fungicide of biological origin (Alirin-B, Baikal-EM, Ridomil-Gold, Bayleton). After that, the seeds are washed under a stream of clean cool water and dried to a friable state.

For seed broccoli pre-planting preparation

So-called shock therapy is also practiced, but it takes longer. Seeds are placed in a container with wet sand or peat. For a week at night, she is cleaned in the refrigerator, and during the day she is kept in the warmest place in the apartment. A window sill of a window facing south is suitable, for example.

Sprouts of broccoli seeds, if preplanting was carried out properly, give pretty quickly

Growing seedlings follows the following algorithm:

  1. Small plastic cups or peat pots fill the soil. Broccoli picks up poorly; fragile leaves and roots often suffer in the process. A drainage layer is mandatory at the bottom. Suitable as purchased soil for seedlings, and self-prepared mixture. Cabbage loves a loose nutrient substrate, so for seedlings you can take humus or rotted compost, peat and sand (the last component is three times less than the first two). A useful additive is crushed chalk or activated carbon crushed into powder (a tablespoon of three liters of a self-prepared substrate). Any soil must be disinfected. Prior to planting, the substrate in containers is watered abundantly and leveled.
  2. Broccoli seeds are planted in pots of 2-3 pieces. Until they germinate, the container is left in a dark room at a temperature of 17–20 ° C. To create a “greenhouse effect”, glass is placed on top or a film is pulled.
  3. As soon as the seeds germinate, the “shelter” is removed, the seedlings are provided with sunshine lasting at least 10–12 hours (ideally 14–16 hours) and the temperature is reduced to 14–16 ° C during the day and 10–12 ° C at night. For illumination, it is best to use special phytolamps or LED lamps. They are placed 20-25 cm above the containers at a slight angle. In the phase of the second real leaf, rejection is carried out, leaving in each pot one of the most powerful and developed seedling. The rest are gently nibbled or cut.
  4. Further care for seedlings is to water and fertilize. Like any cabbage, broccoli is a moisture-loving culture, so the substrate is moistened as soon as the topsoil dries. But you can not fill the seedlings. In wet soil, similar to a swamp, the development of a “black leg” is more than possible. This dangerous disease can deprive the gardener of the future broccoli crop now. Three to four waterings per week are usually sufficient. Each time after it the room is ventilated. Broccoli is fed 12-15 days after emergence and after another 1.5 weeks. For the first time, 2 g of potash and nitrogen and 4 g of phosphorus fertilizers are taken per liter of water, the second time, their rate is doubled. A week before planting, broccoli seedlings are sprayed with a solution of urea or another nitrogen-containing fertilizer (3-4 g / l).
  5. 7-10 days before transplanting to the garden, broccoli seedlings begin to harden. First, you can simply open a window for a couple of hours or take out the containers on a glazed loggia, porch. By the end of this period, cabbage is already "sleeping" on the street.

Video: growing broccoli seedlings

The seedlings ready for planting in the soil have 6–8 true leaves and reaches a height of 15–20 cm. Its age is about 35–40 days. The older the seedlings, the worse and longer it adapts to new living conditions. Fiesta F1 is a mid-early hybrid, therefore seeds are sown for seedlings in the first ten days of April, and seedlings are transferred to the garden in May. In principle, seedlings can withstand cold up to -10 ° C, but it is better not to risk a future crop. Experienced gardeners sow it several times at intervals of a week and a half to stretch the harvest period.

When planting broccoli seedlings in the ground, they must withstand the interval between plants

Each plant needs enough space for nutrition, they are placed on the bed with an interval of about 40 cm. The gap between the rows of broccoli is 50-60 cm, the seedlings are staggered. This will help to “tighten” the landing.

For landing choose a cool cloudy day. Or spend it in the late afternoon, when the sun has already set. The depth of the hole is 10-14 cm. A handful of humus, a couple of pinches of wood ash or crushed chalk, a little onion husk are put on the bottom (it repels most pests wintering in the soil). Well shed well with water so that the broccoli is planted in the "mud".

The stem is covered with earth to the lowest pair of leaves. Seedlings that were grown in peat pots are planted directly with a container, the rest are taken out of the container together with an earthen lump on the roots. It will be much easier to do this if the substrate is well shed about half an hour before the procedure. After planting, broccoli is also abundantly watered, spending about a liter of water per plant. It is advisable to mulch the garden. This will protect the soil from overheating and help retain moisture in it.

Mulching helps retain moisture in the soil and saves the gardener time for weeding

In the southern regions of Russia, where the climate is predominantly subtropical, Fiesta F1 broccoli can be planted immediately in the garden, bypassing the seedling stage. Here, too, it will not be possible to avoid preplant seed preparation. 5-7 days before the procedure, the soil on the bed must be deeply loosened and shed with a solution of any fungicide. You can use both the well-proven products proven by more than one generation of gardeners (Bordeaux liquid, vitriol), as well as more modern drugs (Topaz, Skor, Horus, Rayek, KhOM and so on).

Seeds are sown, following the same scheme that is recommended for seedlings, a few pieces per hole, buried no more than 1.5–2 cm. Then they are sprinkled with humus. The bed is tightened with black plastic film before emergence.

Broccoli seedlings obtained from seeds planted in open ground are required to thin out

Caring for seedlings is almost the same as for seedlings grown at home. But there are some differences. Broccoli in the phase of the second true leaf must be treated with any suitable preparation to protect against cruciferous fleas. This common pest of all Crucifers does not disdain broccoli. And when 3-4 leaves are formed, carefully pour soil to the base of the stem so that the bushes do not fall. Young shoots are sensitive to direct sunlight, so they are covered with spruce branches, old buckets or a temporary canopy of any covering material of white color is built over the garden. It is also recommended to cover seedlings until it takes root in a new place and starts growing.

Important nuances of crop care

Broccoli is less demanding in care than cauliflower, although for some reason the culture is considered capricious and whimsical. It differs not only in frost resistance, but also in its ability to adapt to adverse weather conditions. In fact, caring for it comes down to regular watering and fertilizing. Of course, the bed is regularly cleaned of weeds, and the soil is loosened to a depth of 8-10 cm. This must be done carefully, the root system of broccoli is superficial. Ideally, loosening is carried out every time after watering, about an hour later, when the moisture is absorbed. As necessary, add fresh mulch to the root zone - humus, peat crumb, freshly cut grass.

Watering

Like all varieties of cabbage, broccoli loves water. But it is impossible to fill it, so as not to provoke the development of rot. If the temperature is comfortable for the culture (18-24 ° C), it is enough every 2-3 days. In the heat, broccoli is watered daily or even twice a day. In the evenings, when the sun sets, you can still spray the leaves.

Broccoli needs frequent and plentiful watering, this applies to both seedlings and seedlings, and adult plants

The soil needs to be wetted about 15–18 cm deep. It is best to water broccoli by sprinkling or arrange drip irrigation. If you pour water directly under the roots, they are exposed and dry out.

Fertilizer application

From fertilizers, culture prefers natural organics. The first time they are introduced 12-15 days after the broccoli seedlings are transferred to the garden or not earlier than 20-25 days after the seeds have sprouted. Plants are watered with infusion of fresh cow manure, bird droppings, nettle leaves or dandelion. In principle, any weeds growing on the plot can be used. The infusion is prepared in a container under a closed lid for 3-4 days (if it is in the sun, then even faster). After the appearance of a characteristic odor, it is filtered and diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 8. If bird droppings were used as raw material, twice as much water is needed.

Recent entries In April, I process roses so that no pests encroach on my beauties

5 Japanese plants that take root well in Central Russia

How do I protect seedlings from my curious cats

Nettle infusion - a natural fertilizer that contains nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium necessary for the development of broccoli

The second time broccoli feeds after another 15-20 days. Используют любые азотсодержащие удобрения (карбамид, сульфат аммония, аммиачная селитра) в сухом виде или как раствор — 12–15 г на 10 л воды. После этого азот уже не вносится. Его излишек стимулирует брокколи к интенсивному наращиванию зелёной массы в ущерб развитию соцветий. Прожилки на листьях утолщаются, в них и в стеблях накапливаются вредные для здоровья нитраты.

Карбамид, как и другие азотсодержащие удобрения, стимулирует брокколи к активному наращиванию зелёной массы, поэтому с ним очень важно не переборщить

Последнюю подкормку проводят за 2–3 недели до планируемой срезки головок. В этот период растение нуждается в калии и фосфоре. В 10 л воды разводят 40 г простого суперфосфата и 15–20 г сульфата калия. Можно использовать и настой древесной золы (пол-литровая банка на 3 л кипятка). Норма расхода на каждую брокколи — 1–1, 5 л. Золу вносят и в сухом виде, рассыпая её по грядке. Это не только хорошая подкормка, но и действенная профилактика грибковых заболеваний. Также подойдут любые средства на основе биогумуса.

Видео: рекомендации по выращиванию брокколи и уходу за ней

Diseases, pests and their control

Брокколи Фиеста F1 устойчива к фузариозу. Вообще, она отличается неплохим «врождённым» иммунитетом, поэтому при должном уходе страдает от болезней довольно редко. Но все же от этого не застрахован ни один садовод. Больше проблем вызывают вредители, которых у любой капусты очень много.

Среди насекомых, которые могут нанести существенный ущерб урожаю брокколи:

  • Aphid. Один из самых распространённых вредителей садовых культур. Мелкие насекомые зеленовато-жёлтого или чёрно-коричневого цвета селятся на брокколи целыми колониями, облепляя листья и соцветия. Они питаются соком растения, поэтому поражённые ткани покрываются мелкими бежевыми точками, листья деформируются и сохнут. Тля не любит высокую влажность и сильные ароматы. В качестве профилактики брокколи можно раз в 7–10 дней опрыскивать либо обычной водой, либо настоями любых пряноароматических трав. Также как сырьё используют молотый красный перец, сухие табачные листья, кожуру лимона или апельсина, лаванду, бархатцы, календулу, ромашку аптечную. Если тли пока немного, те же настои могут решить проблему, но частоту обработок увеличивают до нескольких раз в день. Когда желаемого эффекта нет, применяют (строго по инструкции) любые инсектициды общего действия — Искра-Био, Актеллик, Инта-Вир, Моспилан. Практика показывает, что хватает 2–3 обработок, проводящихся примерно через полторы недели.
  • Капустная муха. Основной вред растениям причиняют личинки. Они живут в земле, выгрызают изнутри корни, затем переходят к тканям листьев. Для отпугивания взрослых особей брокколи опрыскивают раствором Амбуша или Ровикурта. Чтобы уничтожить личинок, грунт проливают Корсаром, Анометрином.
  • Крестоцветная блошка. Взрослые особи и личинки питаются тканями растения, выедая в листьях и стеблях множество мелких «углублений». В результате надземная часть брокколи быстро сохнет и отмирает. Вредителя эффективно отпугивает пижма или чистотел. Эти растения можно высадить по периметру грядки или посыпать почву измельчёнными высушенными листьями. В случае массового нашествия вредителей применяют Актару, Актеллик, Фоксим.
  • Капустная совка. Основной вред растениям причиняют гусеницы. Они объедают листья начиная с краёв. Очень быстро от них остаются одни прожилки. Против взрослых особей в течение мая брокколи обрабатывают Лепидоцидом или Битоксибациллином. Также неплохой эффект дают специальные феромонные или самодельные ловушки. Бабочек приманивают с помощью ёмкостей, заполненных разведённым водой сахарным сиропом, мёдом, вареньем. Гусениц уничтожают, обрабатывая брокколи препаратами Талкорд, Фосбецид, Белофос, Фуфанон.
  • Слизни и улитки. Выедают в листьях большие дыры, оставляя на поверхности серебристый блестящий налёт. Лёжкость и презентабельность головок сильно страдают. Молодые сеянцы и рассаду вредители могут уничтожить целиком. Как правило, для борьбы с вредителями достаточно народных средств. Массовые нашествия слизней происходят достаточно редко. Грядку опудривают табачной пылью, древесной золой, молотым жгучим перцем. Стебли растений окружают «барьером» из хвои, измельчённой ореховой или яичной скорлупы, крупного песка. Неплохой эффект дают и ловушки — вкопанные в землю ёмкости, заполненные пивом, сахарным сиропом, нарезанными капустными листьями или кусочками грейпфрута. Также слизней собирают вручную. Способностями к маскировке и скоростью передвижения они не отличаются. Из химикатов для борьбы с вредителем используют Мету, Грозу.

Фотогалерея: как выглядят опасные для брокколи вредители

Тля — один из самых «всеядных» садовых вредителей, брокколи тоже входит в «сферу её интересов»

Вовремя заметить появление личинок капустной мухи достаточно сложно, они почти не выходят на поверхность

Крестоцветная блошка помимо капусты поражает редьку и редис, поэтому эти культуры стараются сажать как можно дальше друг от друга

Основной вред брокколи причиняют гусеницы капустной совки, но это не значит, что с взрослыми особями не нужно бороться

Пострадавшие от слизней головки брокколи выглядят совсем неаппетитно и намного хуже хранятся

Грибковые заболевания могут за считаные дни уничтожить большую часть или вообще все посадки брокколи. Действенные профилактические меры — соблюдение севооборота, схемы высадки растений и надлежащий уход за культурой. Чаще всего брокколи страдает от следующих заболеваний:

  • «Чёрная ножка». Грибком поражается в основном рассада брокколи. Основание стебля чернеет и размягчается, сеянцы никнут и сохнут. Болезнь часто развивается при переувлажнении грунта. Для профилактики в простерилизованный субстрат вносят древесную золу или толчёный мел, семена обрабатывают биофунгицидами. Как только замечены характерные симптомы, полив сводится к необходимому минимуму, обычная вода заменяется бледно-розовым раствором перманганата калия. Капусту опрыскивают Фитолавином, Фитоспорином, Бактофитом. В лунки на грядке можно внести Триходермин, Глиокладин в виде гранул.
  • Kila. The disease is very difficult to detect in a timely manner. On the roots of the plant, spherical growths of different sizes are formed. It ceases to develop. Broccoli rosettes seem to fade and dry for no reason. It is already impossible to cure infected keel broccoli. Such plants need to be removed as soon as possible from the beds and burned. For disinfection, this place is shed with a 5% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux fluid. It is very important for the prevention of crop rotation. To cleanse the soil of the causative agent of the disease, any Solanaceae, onions, garlic, spinach, beets (ordinary or leaf) are planted on the infected bed.
  • Peronosporosis. Blurry yellowish spots appear on the underside of the sheet, the front side is drawn in with a continuous layer of grayish-white coating, similar to spilled flour. Gradually, it changes its tint to yellowish-brown, becomes denser. For prophylaxis, plants are dusted with sifted wood ash, colloidal sulfur. At an early stage of the development of the disease, you can cope with it with folk remedies - spraying with foam of green potash or laundry soap, a solution of colloidal sulfur, diluted with water kefir or serum with the addition of iodine. In case of mass infection, the plantings are sprayed with Topaz, Ridomil-Gold, Alirin-B.
  • Alternariosis. Small brown rounded spots appear on the leaves. Gradually, they grow, taking the form of concentric circles, are tightened by a layer of grayish plaque with black splashes. Prevention and control measures are the same as with peronosporiosis.
  • White rot. An excess of nitrogen and acidic soil provokes the development of the disease. A whitish "fluffy" coating appears on the leaves and inflorescences. Gradually, it becomes denser and darker, the affected parts of the plant are deformed and brown, the tissues rot. If the disease has gone too far, the plant can only tear and burn. When it is noticed early enough, all affected areas are cut with a sharpened, disinfected knife, capturing a slightly healthy-looking tissue. “Wounds” are washed with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or 2% copper sulfate, sprinkled with activated carbon powder. The soil in the garden is shed by Skor, Kuprozan, Oleokuprit, Horus.

Photo gallery: symptoms of broccoli-hazardous diseases

"Black Leg" is a dangerous disease, the development of which is most often to blame for the gardener himself, excessively watering broccoli seedlings

Kila - a specific disease of cabbage, it is impossible to cure it with modern means

It seems that whitish plaque, which is one of the symptoms of peronosporiosis, is easy to erase from the leaves, but in fact it indicates the presence of a serious illness

The fungus pathogen alternariosis does not tolerate copper compounds, any fungicides are used to combat it

White rot most often develops when overfeeding cabbage with nitrogen or if it is planted in acidic soil

Harvesting and storage

Broccoli Fiesta F1 usually ripens in early or mid-August. The heads must be cut before the yellow flowers bloom, and the inflorescences become loose. This is constantly monitored - cabbage ripens in just 2-3 days. Then the vegetable can no longer be eaten, it significantly loses in taste and benefit. You can focus on the height of the stem - it should grow to about 10 cm.

Eating blooming broccoli is no longer possible; it loses much in its benefits and taste

The heads are cut off along with part of the stem. It is advisable to do this in the morning, so that in direct sunlight they do not lose their juiciness. The root is left on the bed. For the time remaining before the frosts, 2-3 small heads will still have time to form on it. This usually takes about a month. Sometimes they are tied even on plants torn from the soil, remaining to lie on the bed. To stimulate the process, broccoli can be watered a couple of times with infusion of manure.

Ripe broccoli heads are cut together with part of the stem, leaving the plant itself in the ground

For long-term storage, the Fiesta F1 hybrid is unsuitable. This cabbage does not lie longer than three months, even under optimal conditions, and at room temperature it spoils after 7-10 days. Broccoli is stored in a cellar, basement, other dark place with good ventilation at a positive temperature close to 0 ° C and high humidity (75% or more).

Keep Fiesta F1 fresh broccoli for a long time will not work

Frozen broccoli, without losing their benefits, is stored for 10-12 months. Heads are disassembled into inflorescences, washed and dried. Then they are laid out on baking sheets covered with paper towels, and for 2-3 minutes they are sent to the freezer, which is included in the “shock” freezing mode. Ready inflorescences are laid out in small portions on special plastic bags with an airtight fastener. Defrosting and re-freezing are categorically contraindicated for them. Broccoli turns into an unappetizing slimy porridge.

Frozen broccoli is laid out in packets in small portions, which you can definitely use at a time

Video: Broccoli Harvest

Gardeners reviews

I also had problems with broccoli until I hit the Fiesta F1 variety. Now I’m buying it a couple of years in advance, otherwise it’s not always on sale. Previously, I tried all sorts of varieties - some flowers, but the Fiesta does not fail every year, even if it’s hot, even though it rains ... I think that choosing a variety for each locality is of great importance.

RAZUM42007

Broccoli cabbage Fiesta F1 (Holland) High-yielding, mid-season hybrid of Dutch selection. Landing at a permanent place in May or early June according to the scheme: 50 × 20-30 cm.

Dmitry Mineev

Favorite of broccoli - Fiesta F1 and Batavia. The main heads weighing approximately 1.2-1.5 kg and brocoletti until winter.

Mopsdad1

I went mass ripening broccoli. The best result in the Dutch hybrid Fiesta F1 (mid-early). Despite the heat at the time of formation, the heads turned out to be aligned, 350-400 g each. There was no such unpleasant phenomenon as leaf sprouting through the head. The fact that they turned out to be too small (against the declared 600-800 g) was apparently affected by planting with overgrown seedlings (and it takes no more than 35 days). Well and later I planted it (May 30) and, apparently, my sandy soil for it is not fertile enough. In principle, it would have extended even earlier terms, as more cold-resistant than cauliflower, and then would not have come under the July heat. Today I went through broccoli and cut a whole basket of inflorescences from the side shoots. After cutting 20 days ago, the central heads did not particularly expect that something else would break off. Nevertheless, it’s grown, just a freebie. By the way, basically everything from the side shoots was given by the F1 Fiesta hybrid. The same Maraton did not give anything on the side. For the third year now I have been doing gathering with broccoli Fiesta on the side shoots, and always decent. Now I think next year to put her in two terms.

Kolosovo

Fiesta F1 is a mid-early hybrid, a medium-sized head with a high density (as a plus), resistant to fusarium wilt.

Dobraferma

To get a good crop of broccoli, you need to grow the appropriate varieties. Planting Fiesta F1. The heads are huge and after cutting the main pile of small ones grows.

Anatoly Yakovlev

A broccoli shop is not cheap, unlike ordinary cabbage. Yes, and is sold frozen. At first we bought it. But here I bought the seeds, I decided to plant broccoli Fiesta F1. The seedlings turned out to be fragile, small, stretched out a little and I thought: “How will cabbage grow from this?” Cabbage grew all of my seedlings, turned out to be strong. This is a medium early variety (80 days from germination to technical ripeness). Planted in mid-May according to a pattern of 30x50 cm. First, leaves the leaves, and then inflorescences. It is imperative to handle caterpillars. And then they really like to settle under the leaves. I processed three times. Heads of cabbage still need to be spudded, that is, sprinkled with earth, otherwise they can bend over. Watering is moderate. You need to collect inflorescences when they are small, if you miss this moment, then small flowers will appear from the inflorescences. Delicious Fiesta in any form, can and canned.

Lilena69

Broccoli has all the necessary qualities to “take root” in the areas of Russian gardeners. The culture is characterized by cold tolerance, unpretentiousness in care, good productivity, early maturity. We must not forget about the taste and health benefits. The hybrid of the Dutch selection Fiesta F1 can be grown in most of Russia, this variety of broccoli quickly gained popularity around the world.

Recommended

Limnantes - fried egg flower in your garden
2020
Brusvyana - tree-like repairing raspberries
2020
Diseases and pests of dill: control and prevention measures
2020