Diseases and pests of dill: control and prevention measures

Most gardeners consider dill a completely hassle-free plant. It is enough to sow its seeds in soil only once. Further, the culture reproduces itself self-seeding, dispenses with natural sediments, does not require additional nutrition and other care. But this plant, as practice shows, can suffer from diseases or be attacked by pests. Therefore, it is better to know in advance what problems are possible when growing dill, how to cope with them and prevent pest attacks or the development of fungal diseases.

Treatment and prevention of dill diseases

Disease prevention takes a gardener much less time and effort than fighting them. Therefore, it is advisable to focus on precisely these simple measures.

First of all, you need to correctly choose a place to land. Many pathogenic fungi prefer high humidity, stale air, cool. Therefore, dill is sown in open sunny areas. The plant is not afraid of winds and drafts.

Crop rotation is very important. In the same place, dill is desirable to grow a maximum of 2-3 years. Then the bed needs to be moved to a new place. Good predecessors for culture are plants from the family Pumpkin, Legume, Solanaceae. Do not plant dill after carrots, beets (plain and leaf), garden strawberries, and other umbrellas. In general, beds with these crops are placed as far as possible from each other.

Tomatoes are bad predecessors for dill, these crops have a common disease - verticillosis

Preplant seed treatment is also required. It is easiest to soak them for 15–20 minutes in hot (45–50 ° C) water, and then immerse them in cold water for half an hour. You can also use a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection, but the processing time in this case increases to 5-6 hours. A similar effect is given by biofungicides. In the solution prepared according to the instructions, the seeds are etched for 10-15 minutes, then washed in cool running water and dried to a state of flowability.

Potassium permanganate solution - one of the most common disinfectants

The immunity of the plant is positively affected by the treatment with biostimulants. This applies to folk remedies (aloe juice, succinic acid, honey diluted with water), and to store preparations (Epin, Kornevin, Zircon, potassium humate).

Seeds are sown in the garden as evenly as possible, avoiding the thickening of plantings. Crowding prevents plants from growing normally and makes them more vulnerable. Diseases and pests in this case spread much faster.

Dill on the bed is sown as evenly as possible, avoiding thickening of plantings

The bed is necessarily regularly weeded and loosened. And in the fall - they dig and remove all plant debris. It needs to be burned as quickly as possible, and not stored somewhere in the far corner of the site. Eggs and larvae of many pests, spores of pathogenic fungi successfully winter on plant roots, in dried greens.

During the active growing season, fertilizing with potash and phosphorus fertilizers is useful. In the right dosage, these macronutrients strengthen the immunity of plants. Boron has a similar effect. But zealous with nitrogen, on the contrary, is not worth it.

Typical Dill Disease

Dill by nature has good immunity. This advantage was also transmitted to varieties and hybrids that were bred by breeding. However, there are factors that contribute to the development of diseases, for example, cool rainy weather or thickened plantings. In favorable conditions, this culture can also suffer from pathogenic fungi. Dill still has no absolute protection against disease.

Powdery mildew

One of the most common diseases affecting the vast majority of garden crops. Dill can also suffer from this fungus. Its development is promoted by high humidity (70% and more) and a temperature quite low for summer (17–20ºС). Spores of a pathogenic fungus are carried by aphids, ants, many flying insects.

The first sign of mildew infection is leaves, as if powdered with a small whitish or grayish powder. Gradually, this plaque “thickens”, its color changes to dark brown. The affected tissue dries and dies. In principle, such dill can be eaten, but its taste is greatly deteriorated and its characteristic aroma is practically lost.

Powdery mildew is one of the most common diseases of horticultural crops, dill can also suffer from it

For the prevention of planting, dill is treated with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, diluted in water with colloidal sulfur (3-5 g / l). It is useful to add potassium permanganate periodically to water for irrigation. It is advisable to carry out such treatments at least once every 1.5–2 weeks.

Planting treatment with colloidal sulfur solution - effective prevention of powdery mildew

Having found characteristic symptoms indicating an early stage of the disease, dill and substrate in the garden are sprayed with infusion of onion or garlic shooters, a solution of mustard powder. If so far only individual leaves are affected by the fungus, they can simply be removed, and the whole plant treated with foam of green potash, tar or laundry soap. Since the fungus does not tolerate an acidic environment, a good effect is given by spraying with diluted water in a ratio of 1:10 kefir or whey with the addition of iodine (drop per liter of solution).

Garlic produces volatile, destroying pathogenic fungi

In severe cases, copper-containing preparations, fungicides, are used. Although for any greenery this is very undesirable, because most often it is eaten without heat treatment, and sometimes even unwashed. If there is a choice, preference should be given to preparations of biological origin, which do not harm either human health or the environment. This, for example, Strobi, Gamair, Mikosan, Alirin-B. Usually enough 2-3 procedures with an interval of 5-6 days. Although there are gardeners who prefer “reliable proven” products, such as Bordeaux liquid and copper sulfate. Another option is antibiotics. 1–2 g of Penicillin, Streptomycin and Terramycin powder should be dissolved in a liter of water.

Video: powdery mildew control methods

Peronosporosis

Powdery mildew is recognized by blurry lime-colored spots on the front of the leaf plate. They seem to be “oily”, quickly change color to dark green and then brown. The wrong side of the sheet is pulled by a continuous layer of mauve. Gradually, these spots grow, merge into one. Affected by the fungus leaves wilt, wrinkle and dry, decay into separate fragments. The greenery on the dill bushes affected by downy mildew becomes pale, almost tasteless. The disease can destroy the plant completely in a very short period of time, literally in two to three days. Spores of a pathogenic fungus are carried by aphids, whiteflies. Favorable conditions for the development of downy mildew are sharp changes in day and night temperatures, frequent precipitation (as well as watering with cold water).

Peronosporosis destroys the plant very quickly, often the gardener does not even have time to take action

To protect plantings from peronosporosis, dill and soil on the bed are sprinkled with powdered chalk or sifted wood ash. It is useful to incorporate these substances into the soil during the process of loosening. In the spring, shortly before the emergence of seedlings or before planting them in the garden, it is recommended to shed the selected area with a solution of Integral, Alirina-B, and Haupsin. Once a month during the period of active vegetation, boric acid diluted with water (1 g / l) can be used.

Wood ash is an effective protection against many pathogenic fungi

Folk remedies in the fight against the disease are not very effective even in the early stages of its development. In the best case, they can only slightly slow down the process. To do this, use infusions of green plants producing phytoncides - onions, garlic, wormwood, yarrow.

If the disease is not noticed on time and has gone far in its development, the drugs Fitosporin-M, Planriz, Bayleton, Baikal-EM are used. Typically, two treatments with an interval of 12-15 days are sufficient. But drugs of biological origin sometimes do not give the desired effect. In this case, you have to resort to "heavy artillery" - this, for example, Acrobat-MC, Oksikhom, Ridomil-Gold. These drugs pose a risk to human and animal health, so before spraying you must take care of personal protective equipment (at least wear a respirator and gloves). There is no dill from the processed beds for at least a month.

Fitosporin-M - one of the most popular fungicides of biological origin in gardeners

There is another radical way to combat the disease. All plants from the site that could have been infected are pulled out and burned. Dig the soil or loosen it well, then pour it with boiling water, a dark raspberry potassium permanganate solution or 5% copper sulfate.

Phomosis (dry rot)

This disease is more likely characteristic of carrots, but dill also affects, because these plants belong to the same family. Its development is promoted by heat and high humidity. Another factor contributing to infection is deficiency in the soil of boron.

With a deficiency in boron soil, the risk of developing fomosis is much higher

Small brownish or grayish-beige spots with darker brown border appear on the leaves. The wrong side acquires an unnatural bluish-purple tint. The lowermost leaves may turn pink in color completely. The affected tissue areas are gradually destroyed and die off, the dill bush practically stops in development, the leaves turn pale. If you pull it out of the ground, you can see the pressed-in brown “ulcers” on the roots. The fabrics underneath turn into dust.

Phomosis often affects root crops and berries, but dill can also suffer from this disease.

To prevent the development of fomosis, the site before sowing dill is shed with a 0.5% solution of Tiram, Fundazole or Rovral. To strengthen the immunity of plants, fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus are applied to the soil. But nitrogen, on the contrary, weakens them, so you should not be zealous with it. The same applies to fresh manure. Also, during the growing season, it is advisable to carry out 2-3 foliar top dressing with a solution of boric acid. And in the soil on the bed every 4–5 years you can make a borax.

Phosphate and potassium fertilizers in the right dosage have a positive effect on plant immunity

Phomosis is practically not amenable to treatment. This also applies to folk remedies and chemicals. It will be easier to remove infected specimens from the beds and disinfect the soil in this place.

Cercosporiasis

A dangerous fungal disease that affects the entire plant and sharply inhibits its development. The pathogenic fungus interferes with the normal course of the photosynthesis process, on which the dill bush should now spend all its energy to the detriment of the formation of new leaves. The development of cercosporiosis contributes to coolness (temperature not higher than 20 ° C) and high humidity.

Multiple small (2–4 mm in diameter) spots of brownish color with a brick-colored border appear on the leaves. They feel velvety to the touch. They rapidly increase in diameter, spreading over the entire sheet plate. Affected leaves rot and die.

Special remedies for the treatment of cercosporosis do not currently exist, therefore, special attention should be paid to prevention

For prevention and at the first signs of the development of the disease, dill is sprayed with 1% Bordeaux liquid or a solution of Abacus, Rex-Duo, Dual-Gold. If the weather is favorable for the fungus, the treatment can be repeated after 2.5–3 weeks. In the heat and with prolonged drought, this is not necessary. It is also useful to increase the immunity of dill by applying phosphorus and potassium fertilizers in doses not exceeding the recommended norm.

Abacus is one of the drugs used to prevent cercosporiosis

In addition to “cultivated” plants, cercosporiosis can affect quinoa, sow thistle, and dandelions. Therefore, special attention must be paid to weed control.

Sow thistle is one of many weeds that the causative agent of cercosporiasis uses as a “base”

Fusarium

Fusariosis is a very dangerous disease that affects the vast majority of garden crops. The fungus parasitizing in the tissues of the plant saturates them with poisonous secretions. Accordingly, fruits, berries, root vegetables, vegetables, greens become unsuitable for eating. Most often, the disease develops in light acidified soil. But in a heavy, clay substrate - almost never. He likes fungus and heat, high humidity. Therefore, dill grown in a greenhouse is in the zone of particular risk. Spores carry many insects that feed on plant sap - aphids, spider mites, whiteflies.

In the aerial part of the plant, symptoms characteristic of fusarium appear when the disease has already gone far enough

Another risk factor is an excess of chlorine in the soil. Therefore, it is better to refuse fertilizers with the content of this microelement. For example, it is undesirable to feed dill with potassium chloride. But calcium does not like a pathogenic fungus. It is advisable to add dolomite flour into the soil during the preparation of the bed, crushed to a powder state chalk or shell of eggs.

Dolomite flour - a natural deoxidizer of the soil, subject to the dosage without any side effects

The leaves of dill bushes affected by fusarium lose their tone, turn yellow and fade. “Watery” patches appear on them. The process in the vast majority of cases goes from bottom to top. On the sections of the stems, ring-shaped dark, almost black blotches are clearly visible - clogged vessels. Closer to the roots, a layer of pinkish-white mold may appear.

The disease is also dangerous because it does not manifest itself for about a month - this is the incubation period. And then the wilting process goes almost lightning fast, 4-7 days are enough for the plant to die.

An effective preventive measure is a weekly watering of the soil with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. You can also use an infusion of onion husks or wood ash (about 0.5 liters of raw materials per 3 liters of boiling water).

Onion husk infusion - effective prevention of fusarium

Folk remedies in the fight against fusariosis are ineffective. It is better not to waste time and immediately use fungicides - Phytolavin, Agat-25K, Vectru, Vitaros. These are drugs of biological origin. In the absence of the desired result, the treatment is repeated, but more “serious” means are already used - Oksikhom, Bravo, Raek, Diskor. It is advisable to spray only those plants that seem uninfected. Those on which characteristic symptoms have manifested cannot be saved. They are pulled out from the garden and burned as quickly as possible. It is strictly forbidden to send them to a compost pile if you do not want to infect the whole garden later.

Verticillosis

Berry bushes and root crops often suffer from verticillous wilting, but dill is also at risk. A feature of the disease is a long (2-3 years) incubation period, during which its pathogen does not manifest itself in any way, developing in the soil. Contributes to the emergence of verticillosis high temperature (25ºC and more), especially in combination with low humidity.

Recent entries In April, I process roses so that no pests encroach on my beauties

5 Japanese plants that take root well in Central Russia

How do I protect seedlings from my curious cats

The fungus clogs the vessels that deliver moisture from the roots of the aerial parts of the plant, while it releases toxic substances that poison the tissues. The process begins from the roots, therefore, in infected plants, the root system is undeveloped, as if “loose”.

The lower leaves gradually dry. The situation does not change for the better, even if you often water the plants. Then the dill bushes practically stop in development, grow smaller. Leaves acquire an unnatural reddish tint. A thin layer of a “dirty” gray-white coating may appear that resembles a cobweb, but this is not an obligatory sign. Because of this symptom, verticillosis is often confused with a spider mite and begin to use acaricides, wasting time.

Dill affected by verticillosis seems to fade and dry for no reason.

Most often, of all crops grown in household plots, garden strawberries and beets suffer from verticillosis. Therefore, dill is not recommended to be planted in the same beds or for at least five years after these plants.

Garden strawberries - a culture that, when grown in home gardens, suffers from verticillosis most often

Means for the treatment of verticillosis currently does not exist. Therefore, preventive measures are especially important. The soil in the garden is disinfected every fall, during the active growing season, at least 2-3 weeks are watered with a solution of biofungicides (Fitocid-R, Fitodoctor, Fitosporin-M). When planting, it is useful to introduce granules of Gliocladin, Trichodermin, Entobacterin into the soil.

Means for the treatment of verticillosis do not exist, Glyocladin, like other drugs, is used only for prevention

To increase the resistance of dill to this disease, foliar feeding is recommended. Spend them when the bushes grow to 8-10 cm in height. In a liter of water, 1–2 g of potassium permanganate, boric acid, copper sulfate, zinc sulfate are diluted. The procedure is repeated three more times, with an interval of 10, 20 and 30 days between them. This nutrient solution contains almost all trace elements necessary for the plant. It positively affects his immunity and increases resistance to any fungal diseases.

"Blackleg"

The disease is dangerous mainly for young seedlings. It can destroy most or even the entire future crop of dill already at the stage of emergence of seedlings. In the vast majority of cases, the gardener himself is to blame for its development, too often and / or abundantly watering the beds.

The base of the stem becomes thinner, blackens and dries. The plant lays on the ground under its own weight. Then it dries quickly and dies.

"Black Leg" - a disease that affects seedlings and seedlings in open ground

As soon as the seedlings appear, the bed is sprinkled with a thin layer of fine sand. For prevention, dill seedlings are powdered with sifted wood ash or crushed chalk. It is also useful to plant them in the soil in the process of loosening. You can also handle planting with a solution of ordinary or soda ash (5–7 g per liter of water). It is advisable to irradiate the seeds before planting with a quartz lamp for three to five minutes.

Diluted baking water or soda ash helps to cope with the "black leg" at an early stage

Having discovered the first characteristic manifestations, watering dill is sharply reduced, reducing it to the necessary minimum. Each time, several crystals of potassium permanganate are added to the water, changing its color to pinkish. Each time after watering, the substrate is loosened, breaking a hard crust on the soil surface so that moisture does not stagnate in it.

Loosening the soil on a bed with dill contributes to its better aeration

To combat the disease, the soil on the bed and the plants themselves are sprayed with a solution of Bactofit, Planriz, Fitosporin-M. Granules of Trichodermin or Gliocladin are introduced into the soil. There are also quite effective folk remedies - infusion of onion peel, wood ash, 3% ethyl alcohol.

Video: how to protect plants from the "black leg"

Pesticides and pest control

Зелени укропа присущ достаточно резкий характерный запах, обусловленный высоким содержанием эфирных масел. Это отпугивает от растения многих вредителей, но, к сожалению, не всех.

Укропная моль

Также известна как «зонтичная», «морковная» или «анисовая». Это довольно мелкая бабочка с крыльями тускло-коричневого цвета. Только ближе к переднему краю на них проявляется красноватый оттенок. Взрослые особи откладывают яйца в почву и на сами растения. Появляющиеся из них гусеницы и причиняют укропу основной вред. Они тоже окрашены в красновато-бурый оттенок с пятнами зелёного между сегментами.

Основной вред грядкам с укропом причиняют личинки укропной моли, но это не значит, что со взрослыми особями не нужно бороться

Они объедают бутоны и цветки, недозрелые семена. Укропный «зонтик» оплетается чем-то, напоминающим паутину, и стягивается. Если появление вредителя замечено вовремя, те, что уже пострадали от гусениц, проще оборвать и уничтожить, чем возиться с лечением.

Личинка укропной моли стягивает зонтик материалом, напоминающим паутину

Для того чтобы защитить грядку с укропом от взрослых особей, неподалёку можно высадить цветы и иные растения с резким сильным ароматом — бархатцы, настурции, календулу, шалфей, розмарин, полынь. Мелко нарубленную зелень используют как сырье для приготовления настоев, которыми грядку желательно опрыскивать хотя бы раз в 10–12 дней, а в идеале — после каждого дождя. Неплохой эффект дают и самодельные ловушки — смазанные долго сохнущим клеем, вазелином, мёдом куски плотного картона, фанеры, стекла. Аналогично действует и обычная липкая лента для ловли мух. Отпугивают бабочек от грядки препараты Лепидоцид, Энтобактерин, Битоксибациллин. Раствором нужно опрыскивать и почву, и сами растения.

Резкий запах полыни и некоторых других растений отпугивает укропную моль от посадок

Вредитель поражает не только культурные, но и дикорастущие зонтичные растения. Поэтому нельзя забывать о регулярной прополке огорода. Это очень действенная профилактическая мера.

Обнаружив на укропе гусениц, кустики обрабатывают настоем древесной золы, в который добавляют мыльную стружку (5–7 г/л). Вредителей просто смывают с растения. Как правило, достаточно одной-двух процедур с интервалом 3–5 дней. Если ожидаемого эффекта нет, применяют любые инсектициды общего действия — Инта-Вир, Танрек, Моспилан.

Морковная листоблошка

Мелкие (длиной до 2 мм) насекомые нежно-зелёного цвета с большими прозрачными крыльями осенью откладывают яйца на корнях укропа. В мае следующего года из них вылупляются личинки, питающиеся соками растения. Они тоже окрашены в бледно-салатный цвет, по краям тела идут наросты, чем-то похожие на бахрому. Чаще всего они селятся на молодых листьях, которые достаточно быстро скручиваются, «курчавятся», напоминая кудрявые сорта петрушки, затем деформируются и засыхают.

Морковных листоблошек очень легко заметить — они подпрыгивают в воздух при самом лёгком прикосновении к кусту укропа

Взрослые листоблошки зимуют на сосновой хвое или в корнях дикой моркови. Поэтому посадки укропа нужно разместить как можно дальше от хвойных деревьев. Если это невозможно, грядку на период максимальной активности вредителя желательно затянуть любым пропускающим воздух укрывным материалом (спанбонд, лутрасил, агрил). И нельзя забывать о прополке огорода.

Сосна служит для морковной листоблошки укрытием на зиму

Чтобы отпугнуть морковную листоблошку от грядок с укропом, посадки опрыскивают настоями корок апельсина, лимона, любого другого цитруса, разведённым водой горчичным порошком. Почву припудривают смесью просеянной древесной золы с молотым чёрным или красным перцем и крошкой сухих табачных листьев. Всех ингредиентов нужно взять примерно поровну. Ещё вредитель очень не любит лук. Поэтому им можно окружить грядку с укропом по периметру или чередовать ряды при высадке. Аналогичный эффект даёт листовая горчица.

Настой апельсиновых корок отгоняет морковную листоблошку от грядок с укропом

Применение химикатов нежелательно, но в случае массового нашествия вредителей — это единственный выход. Хотя случается такое чрезвычайно редко. Наиболее эффективны в борьбе с морковной листоблошкой препараты Цимбуш, Актеллик, Сумицидин.

Морковная муха

Мелкое (длиной до 4, 5–5 мм) насекомое с прозрачными крыльями, окрашенное в желтовато-коричневый цвет. Личинки тоже некрупные, бледно-жёлтые. Период наибольшей активности взрослых особей начинается во второй декаде мая и длится примерно месяц. Можно ориентироваться на цветение рябин и яблонь.

Период максимальной активности морковной мухи приходится на конец весны

Морковная муха предпочитает тень и высокую влажность. Чаще всего от неё страдают посадки, расположенные в непроветриваемых уголках (у забора, живой изгороди) и рядом с водой. На открытой местности она поражает укроп крайне редко.

Вылупившиеся из отложенных на листьях яиц личинки уходят под землю и внедряются в корни. В местах их проникновения внутрь ткани окрашиваются в ржаво-коричневый цвет. Растения резко замедляются в развитии, стебли деформируются. Листья приобретают неестественный фиолетовый отлив, затем желтеют и сохнут.

Личинки морковной мухи внедряются в корни растения, выедая их изнутри

Для профилактики вперемешку с укропом можно высаживать лук или чеснок. Резкий запах перебьёт аромат зелени, на который и ориентируются взрослые особи морковной мухи. Также посадки в течение сезона активной вегетации можно обрабатывать настоями ботвы томатов, картофеля, полыни, а сами растения — припудривать табачной пылью, молотым перцем, горчичным порошком. В период максимальной активности вредителя укроп и почву на грядке обрабатывают раствором препарата Престиж-КС, Циперметрин.

Срезанные с кустов томатов «пасынки» можно использовать для приготовления настоя, отпугивающего морковную муху

There is another effective way to deal with carrot flies. Despite the presence of wings, it cannot rise above 0.5 m above the ground. Therefore, a bed with dill can simply be surrounded around the perimeter with a fine-mesh mesh of the appropriate height. And marigolds and calendula, planted near dill, attract the natural enemies of the pest - ichneumonids.

Video: how to get rid of a carrot fly

Striped shield

This pest is also known under other names - rufous shield bug, striped grafizoma, Italian bug. The last name does not hint at his homeland, but at the distant similarity of colors with the uniform of the Vatican's military guards. It is impossible to confuse it with any other insect. It is characterized by a very bright color of the shell of alternating black and orange-red stripes. In addition to dill, the insect also affects parsley and carrots. The bug is thermophilic; therefore, it is practically not found in the northern regions of Russia.

On the plant, pests are clearly visible. They stick umbrellas in whole groups, proboscis suck out the juice from soft, not having time to ripen seeds. As a result, they either do not mature at all, or they turn out to be of poor quality, deformed. Accordingly, germination is also reduced.

It’s quite difficult not to notice the striped shield bug on the dill umbrella

Shield does not differ in camouflage abilities, as well as movement speed. Bright coloring warns that it is poisonous, but this warning is relevant for birds, and not for people. Therefore, pests can simply be collected by hand, shaking off umbrellas in a container of water. It is also effective to spray affected plants with dichlorvos or flea aerosols intended for pets. The need for continuous processing of landings, as a rule, does not arise. An exception is cases of mass pest invasion. To combat it, drugs Novaktion, Atom, Aktara, Zolon are used.

As a rule, no special means are required to combat the striped shield bug, for example, a regular flea spray

Aphid

One of the most "omnivorous" pests, affecting the vast majority of garden crops. Aphids settle on plants in whole colonies, preferring young leaves and shoot tips. The insect eats the sap of the plant, the affected parts are deformed, dry and die. Small transparent points are clearly visible in the gleam on them - the places where juice is sucked out by pests. At the same time, a layer of sticky plaque appears on the surface, polluting the sheet plate, disrupting the normal course of the photosynthesis process.

Aphid is one of the most “omnivorous” garden pests, dill is also in the scope of its interests

Aphid is dangerous not only in itself, but also as a peddler of the causative agents of many diseases. You also need to remember that she lives in a stable symbiosis with ants. It will be necessary to fight simultaneously with those and other insects, otherwise the desired effect will not be achieved.

Without getting rid of ants, it is impossible to remove aphids in the garden

The pest does not tolerate harsh strong odors. Suitable flowers, spicy herbs (fennel, coriander, mint, basil, mustard leaf) can be planted along the perimeter of the bed with dill. They are also used as raw materials for the preparation of infusions, which are planted every 7-10 days. Also suitable are chili pepper pods, tobacco chips, mustard powder, needles. These same tools will help to cope with the pest if its appearance is noticed on time. Only the frequency of treatments will have to be increased to 3-4 times a day.

There are plants that attract aphids. These are mallow, petunia, begonia, beans. Of the trees, linden, bird cherry and viburnum are the most “dangerous” for the garden.

Petunia attracts aphids, so flower beds with these flowers are placed away from any garden crops.

In the event of a massive invasion of aphids, plantings are sprayed with any general-acting insecticides - Confidor-Maxi, Mospilan, Admiral, Iskra-Bio. Usually enough 2-3 treatments with an interval of 3-4 days. Some gardeners claim that vodka, Coca-Cola, water with the addition of a few drops of lavender essential oil, tea tree, and fir give a similar effect.

Video: ways to combat aphids

Preventing a problem is always much easier than fighting it later, especially if the process has gone too far. Even an unpretentious plant such as dill can suffer from diseases and pests. Therefore, it is advisable to devote some time to prevention. Nothing extraordinary is required from the gardener, simple measures will help prevent the development of pathogenic fungi and attack of pests.

Recommended

Juniper in landscape design: 60 photos of the best application ideas
2020
Vaccination of a pear on a pear
2020
Beautiful iris in landscape design: original ideas for any site!
2020