Cherry in the suburbs: the best varieties and planting in the spring
Among the assortment of cherries grown in Russia, a considerable number of varieties zoned for the Central region are known, including for the suburbs. Their characteristics take into account the basic requirements recommended for growing cherries in the difficult conditions of this region. Cherry of these varieties is characterized by an increased degree of frost and winter hardiness, early ripening of fruits, regular fruiting, early maturity and high productivity. To realize these wonderful qualities of cherries, you should properly plant it in the garden or in the summer cottage.
Varieties of cherries for planting in the suburbs
Cherry trees intended for planting and growing in the Moscow region should have the following characteristics:
- early onset of fruiting and its stability;
- good yield;
- high palatability of fruits;
- drought tolerance;
- winter hardiness;
- frost resistance (up to -35ºС);
- increased resistance to fungal diseases, especially to moniliosis and coccomycosis.
Given the unstable winters of the Central region with possible sharp fluctuations in air temperature (winter thaws and sudden late spring frosts), early and mid-ripe cherries with good resistance to adverse weather conditions are the most suitable for growing in the Moscow Region. These qualities are most possessed by the varieties Vladimirskaya, Molodezhnaya, Lyubskaya, Turgenevka, Shokoladnitsa, Griot Moscow, Apukhtinskaya and several others.
Table: the best varieties of cherries for the Moscow region
varieties of cherries
|The taste of fruit||Main way|
|Sweet and sour|
closer to sour
|High yield; self-fertility;|
(fruiting for 2-3 years);
good frost resistance of the kidneys
|The average frost and winter hardiness of the stem;|
susceptibility to moniliosis
short productive period (15 years)
|Vladimirskaya||Treelike and bushy;|
|Sweet sour, harmonious||In fresh and processed|
(fruiting for 2-3 years);
good winter hardiness
average frost resistance
|Youth||Treelike and bushy;|
|Sweet and sour, dessert||In fresh and processed|
(fruiting for 3 years);
good frost resistance
|Average winter hardiness of the kidneys;|
medium resistance to
moniliosis and coccomycosis
|Sweet Sour, Pleasant||In fresh and processed|
good frost resistance;
average winter hardiness of the kidneys;
medium resistance to
moniliosis and coccomycosis
|Sweet Sour Dessert||In fresh and processed|
average winter hardiness;
|Sweet and sour, tart||In the processed form||High yield;|
unpretentiousness in leaving;
average winter hardiness;
|Late flowering and ripening of fruits;|
susceptibility to coccomycosis
|Sweet Sour Dessert||In fresh and processed|
|High yield; large-fruited;|
and frost resistance
|Susceptibility to coccomycosis and moniliosis|
For the Central region (Moscow, Vladimir, Ryazan, Tula, Kaluga, Bryansk region and others) there is a fairly large group of varieties with increased winter hardiness, productivity, self-fertility and other signs, but, unfortunately, among them are not resistant to coccomycosis and moniliosis.
A.M. Mikheev, candidate of agricultural Sciences, Moscow
Gardens of Russia Magazine, Issue 3, March 2011
Photo gallery: varieties of cherries and their basic qualities
- Lyubskaya Cherry gives a harvest already in the second year after planting
- The variety is characterized by high productivity - up to 12 kg of fruits from one tree
- Vladimirskaya is one of the favorite classic varieties of cherries, very tasty and early
- The main features of Turgenevka are large-fruited and resistance to fungal diseases
- Advantages of the Apukhtinskaya variety: unpretentiousness in care combined with good productivity
- High yield and wonderful taste of fruits make this variety very popular.
- The chocolate girl is called the queen of cherries for the unique taste of aromatic fruits and attractive appearance
Video: a review of the best varieties of cherries for the Moscow region and central Russia
Optimal timing for planting cherries
It is best to plant cherries in the Moscow region in mid-April during spring planting, or during October, a month before the onset of autumn cold weather. When the threat of spring frost passes, the seedlings are ready for planting. The development of cherry seedlings depends heavily on warming up the soil and the surrounding air: the temperature plus ten degrees is the boundary temperature, during which the vegetation processes begin and end. The plant goes into a dormant state when the temperature drops below plus ten degrees. Therefore, seedlings are best planted when the soil warms up above + 15ºС.
The second half of April is the best time for planting and transplanting garden fruit plants. And it, alas, is short: from thawing the soil to budding. Try not to miss out on these golden days, as spring novosady always take root better and are less prone to stress. Optimum air and soil temperatures at this time contribute to plant survival
V.S. Zakotin, scientist, agronomist, Moscow region
Gardens of Russia Magazine, April 4, 2011
Planting cherries in the spring garden
The choice of the site most suitable for growing cherries largely determines the future development of trees and obtaining good yields. The place for planting trees should be flat, open, with good sunlight throughout the day. The presence of shade negatively affects the quality of the fruit, the fruiting stability and yield indicators. It is advisable to plant cherry seedlings in areas that have a southern, southeast or southwest orientation. The presence of a high fence and buildings near the landing site creates a kind of barrier to protect young trees from cold winds. Undesirable areas for cherry cultivation are lowlands, especially with stagnant water and moist, cold air. Such growing conditions are detrimental to cherries. High-standing groundwater is also contraindicated - their occurrence level should not exceed 1.2–1.5 m.
In the case when the seedlings plan to plant in the spring, it is recommended to prepare pits for planting in the fall. A pit dug in size is filled with a mixture of extracted soil and mineral-organic fertilizers and left until spring. The use of nitrogen fertilizers in the fall should be abstained. With autumn planting, a pit is prepared in advance in about a month.
The best soils for growing cherries are chernozems, loams and sandstones, which have a loose structure to ensure good water and air permeability of the soil. If the soil is clay, gravel, heavy, to loosen it before planting, add sand, compost, peat, overripe straw. The acidity of the soil is of great importance when growing cherries. Her indicator should be in the range (pH) of 6.5–8.5. If this indicator is higher, then before planting, the soil is deoxidized by the addition of wood ash or dolomite flour (wood ash 700–800 g / m², dolomite flour - 350–400 g / m²).
The seedlings prepared for planting should be healthy, with elastic elastic branches and a developed root system. Optimum tree height - 60–70 cm
If there are no own seedlings grown for planting, it is advisable to buy them in a nursery or fruit growing farms. For planting, one should choose annual seedlings that have several shoots, a well-developed root system and completely ripened wood. In order to avoid the purchase of wild game or poor-quality planting material, it is necessary to purchase only varietal root and grafted seedlings.
When planting, the roots of the seedling are freely located in the planting pit with a direction from top to bottom. The vaccination site (root neck) should be higher or at the level of the soil surface. To deepen the root neck is unacceptable
Before planting seedlings mark the site. It should be borne in mind that the distance between future adult trees should be at least 2.5 m, and between rows of trees at least 3.5 m. Having marked the site, proceed to the preparation of planting pits. If the soil is fertile, the size of the pit can be from 60x60 cm to 80x80 cm, depending on the size of the root system. The depth of the pit usually varies from 40 to 60 cm. It is recommended to increase the size of the planting pit by 50% if the soil is not fertile or heavy.Recent entries In April, I process roses so that no pests encroach on my beauties
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Before planting, damaged roots are removed from the seedling. Having placed the seedling on the prepared soil mixture next to the support, carefully fill the hole with the remaining soil from the dump and tie the seedling to the support. After watering and compaction, the soil around the tree is mulched with peat or compost
There are several ways to plant cherries. The principle of landing is the same for everyone, but there are some nuances.
Method number 1. Landing rules:
- Given the length and density of the roots of the seedling, prepare a hole of a suitable size. The upper, most fertile soil layer (about 20-30 cm high), when digging, leave on the edge of the pit.
- To mix organic and mineral fertilizers evenly: 2–3 buckets of rotted manure or compost, 1 kg of wood ash, 100 g of simple superphosphate (or 60 g of double), 80 g of potassium sulfate (or 40 g of potassium chloride) per well.
- Loosen the bottom of the pit to a depth of 8-10 cm and moisten the soil with 1 bucket (10 l) of room temperature water.
- After the water has been absorbed, lay the mineral-organic substrate and soil from the pit dumped onto the edge layer by layer in the pit. Fill the pit no more than 2/3. After that, thoroughly mix the entire soil mixture and slightly compact.
- Drive the future support of the seedling firmly into the center of the pit - a stake with a diameter of 5-7 cm, a length of 130-150 cm. This must be done before planting the seedling, and not vice versa. As a stake, you can use the usual shovel handle. Around the support, pour a small mound of planting soil mixture.
- The seedlings immediately before planting need to trim all broken, rotten and moldy roots.
- Across the pit to place the rail. Lean the seedling against the support in such a way that the grafting site, externally distinguished by a small limb of the stem, is 5-8 cm above the surface of the soil.
- Gently spread and distribute the roots of the seedling down the mound down.
- Gradually fill the roots with the remaining soil from the dump, periodically compacting it.
- When the roots are covered with soil about 15 cm, it is necessary to water the tree abundantly and fill the pit with earth to the top.
- Mulch the soil around the seedling with compost or humus with a layer of about 10 cm.
- With a soft braid, carefully tie the planted tree to the "eight" support.
Video: how to plant a cherry
Method number 2. Step-by-step landing instructions:
- Sapling roots are kept in water with root formation stimulants (Kornevin, Zircon) a few days before planting. You can make a pink solution of potassium permanganate or potassium humate to destroy possible pathogenic bacteria or fungus. This pre-planting treatment of the roots is carried out if the seedling has a weak or damaged root system.
- Prepare a standard landing pit. Leave the excavated soil at the edge of the pit.
- Pour about 10 liters of water into the pit and allow it to completely absorb. Water should not be cold, room temperature or slightly warmer.
- At the bottom of the pit, pour soil from the dump in the form of a small mound.
- Prepare a mixture of fresh manure with powdered clay and dip the roots of the prepared seedling in this mixture. The density of the mixture is approximately like thick sour cream.
- Slightly away from the top of the knoll reliably drive in the support. The length of the support should be 35–40 cm longer than the length of the seedling.
- Position the seedling next to the support and gently spread the roots along the knoll, pointing them down.
- Gradually fill the hole with earth from the dump, compacting it to prevent the formation of "air pockets". In this case, the place of vaccination should remain above the soil surface at a height of 6-8 cm.
- After completely filling the pit, you need to finally compact the soil. Tie a sapling to the support.
- Around the trunk of the tree, pour an earthen roller with a diameter of about 1 m and a height of about 15 cm. Pour the formed near-stem circle with two buckets of water (20 l).
- After about half an hour, when the water is completely absorbed, mulch the space around the trunk with a mixture of rotted sawdust and compost.
Video: and one more thing about cherry
Question: “Tell me, please, which cherry is best to buy for the Moscow Region? To make it tasty, juicy, sweet and sour, I was not afraid of frost and was resistant to disease. ”
For my taste, the best is Vladimirovka. Meets all requirements except the last. But in fairness, it should be noted that in my area in recent years all the cherries, tasty and tasteless, have been sick. I must probably handle something, but I won’t, my health is more expensive. It is strange that this sore has been in the garden for many years, but sometimes the harvest is quite decent, and last year there was nothing, although it blossomed well, and there were no frosts during flowering.
Lydia, Moscow (cottage in Mikhnevo-Shugarovo)
I have with knowledge and by choice only Youth planted. The rest of the landings are by the previous owners, seemingly multi-stemmed. On the Youth and on the landlords, the yield is the same - if there is, then, if not, then not. Everyone suffered from moniliosis.
Marincha, Moscow (cottage in Balabanovo, Kaluga Region)
Helga said: “Find the Vladimirskaya cherries, the most common variety, pollinates most cherries. Cherries have never been pollinator of cherries. ”
I fully support Helga. I will add that Vladimirskaya has a more tenacious clone - Vladimirskaya fruitful. And also try Griot Moscow, Zhukovskaya, Shokoladnitsa. They all have very tasty berries and they are inter-pollinated.
heladas, Moscow region
Growing a cherry culture even in regions that do not differ in suitable conditions for this, it is easy to get decent harvests of delicious fruits and enjoy the development of your pets. The right choice of variety and competent tree care determines this opportunity.