Carrots: preparation for planting and cultivation methods
The vast majority of gardeners are sincerely sure that they know everything about the cultivation of carrots. However, it is not always possible to collect a plentiful harvest. This plant cannot be called extremely capricious and demanding in care, but it also has its own “wishes” for the cultivation conditions, the quality of the substrate, the timing of planting, and so on. It is advisable to familiarize yourself with these nuances in advance.
How to choose a carrot variety
Varieties and hybrids of carrots in stores are presented in a wide assortment. Russian and foreign breeders are constantly breeding all new varieties. Each option has its undeniable advantages, so it is often difficult to make a choice. It is necessary to take into account not only the appearance and declared taste of the fruit. This is important, but not critical. Other factors are decisive: the length of the growing season, the exactingness of the quality of the substrate, the shelf life, suitability for cultivation in a particular region, taking into account the climate, and the ability to endure the vagaries of weather.
Carrot seeds in specialized stores are presented in a wide assortment, when it comes to choice, it's easy to get confused
You can immediately formulate some general rules:
- Short-fruited carrots are best suited for early planting.
- Carrots with elongated root crops require more thorough tillage before planting. It must be dug to a depth of at least 25 cm.
- Varieties and hybrids bred in Russia, in comparison with foreign ones, have a more pronounced taste and an increased concentration of vitamins, macro- and microelements. They are also characterized by better keeping quality and higher immunity. Foreign carrots can contrast this with only a presentable appearance.
- Early carrots are appreciated for their taste, but they are not distinguished by their goodness. Late-ripening varieties are best stored. They differ in the highest sugar content and productivity.
There are very few varieties suitable for planting in any region of Russia. It is still better to purchase zoned, specially adapted to the climatic and weather conditions of a particular area. Most often, such information is on the package with seeds. Or you can check in the State Register of Breeding Achievements. Among the universal ones you can name carrots Alyonka, Nantes, Queen of the Autumn, Cardinal.
Alyonka carrot variety in Russia successfully takes root and brings crops wherever possible gardening
Particularly careful should be gardeners living in the so-called regions of risk farming. In central Russia, almost any carrot can be planted. But in the Urals, in Siberia, in the Far East, they mainly choose zoned.
A variety is considered to be early if root crops can be harvested 85–100 days after emergence of seedlings. The most popular among gardeners are carrots Minikor, Tushon, Peerless, Nantes, Artek, Rex. Mid-ripening varieties ripen in 100-110 days. These include, for example, carrots Samson, Callisto F1, Vitamin, Geranda, Boltex. Late-ripening species are harvested no earlier than 125 days after emergence. Common varieties are Chantane, Red Giant, Canada, Monastic, Valeria, Flaccoro, Scarl, Red Cor. It is advisable to plant several varieties of different ripening dates so that the ripening of root crops proceeds gradually.
Few people know that carrots are a plant with a two-year development cycle: if you leave the root crops in the garden for the winter, you can collect seeds next fall
Taste and yield are the criteria that gardeners invariably take into account. The best in this regard are the varieties of carrots Forto, Minikor, Callisto F1, Karotel. It matters and size. The largest root crops ripen at the landing of the Russian size, Emperor, Rogneda, Ramosa, Typhoon, Vita Longa.
Suitable place for culture
Crop rotation is extremely important for productive agriculture. Carrots in the same area are planted no more than two years in a row. Then at the same time it is desirable to occupy it with siderates or plants from the legume family. They improve the quality of the substrate, while saturating it with nitrogen. The best predecessors for the culture are Pumpkin (cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin), Solanaceae (tomatoes, eggplant, potatoes, bell peppers) and Cruciferous (cabbage, radish, radish, daikon).
Eggplants, like other Solanaceae, are quite suitable neighbors and predecessors for carrots.
It is not recommended to plant carrots after other plants from the Umbrella family (dill, parsley, celery, parsnip, anise, cumin, fennel). They are bad neighbors for her. Such placement of beds significantly increases the risk of death of most or all of the crop due to pathogenic fungi and pest attacks. Another undesirable predecessor is leaf lettuce. Carrots can suffer from white rot. She categorically refuses to grow after sunflower and tobacco.
The presence of dill or other plants from the Umbrella family next to carrots greatly increases the risk of developing diseases and pest attacks
A very good solution is to place onions and carrots nearby. This has a positive effect on the yield of both crops. Onion effectively repels the carrot fly, and it has the same effect on the onion.
Onions and carrots planted nearby effectively drive away harmful pests from each other
The carrot bed is chosen so that during the day it is lit as long as possible by the sun. Direct rays do not adversely affect planting. But the lack of light and heat leads to the fact that root crops are deformed, thinner and smaller. Their flesh is hard and almost tasteless. Good ventilation is also highly desirable.
Sunlight and heat are critical to the normal development of root crops
Another very important factor is the level of groundwater. They should not come closer to the surface than a meter. The abundance of moss and its bluish tint indicates otherwise. Any lowlands and steep slopes are excluded. The site should be smooth, otherwise the seeds will simply be washed out of the garden if the spring comes out rainy.
Planting carrots in the open ground in spring: sowing dates
A factor determining the timing of planting carrots is the climatic and weather conditions of each particular region. For example, in the south of Russia this is already done in the first half of April. In areas with a temperate climate, it is better to plan the procedure at the very end of this month or at the beginning of May. In Siberia, the Urals, the Far East, the North and North-West region, it is postponed for another 2.5-4 weeks.
The air temperature at the time of disembarkation should be stable at around 9–12ºС at night and 15–18ºС during the day. The soil also needs to be allowed to warm up. A reliable guide in this regard is folk signs. Carrots are recommended to be planted on the 23rd day after the first flowers of coltsfoot, and when birch and currant buds begin to bloom, forsythia, hazel, and violet will bloom.
The beginning of the flowering of hazel means that the soil has already warmed up enough, and you can start planting carrots
Short return spring frosts up to -5ºС will not kill carrot seeds, especially if you first tighten the bed with any covering material. But its keeping quality will deteriorate sharply. However, it is not worth rushing to plant carrots before anyone else. Seeds are stained, rot develops. Shoots do not appear for a long time, even those specimens that are planted 10-15 days later “overtake” them.
Do not rush too much with planting carrots - if the soil is still cold, shoots will appear not earlier, but later than usual
Early carrots are planted first. Mid-season and late - with an interval of about two weeks. Too pull is also not worth it. If you plant late-ripe carrots in the 20th of June, you can’t just wait until the first frosts, especially in the Ural and Siberian summers.
Many gardeners in matters of planting certain crops are guided by the recommendations of the lunar calendar. But to follow his instructions blindly, perhaps, is still not worth it. Plant carrots if it rains on the street or snows at least unreasonably, even on a declared favorable day.
In 2019, carrots are recommended to be planted on the following favorable days:
- May: 1, 4, 5, 6, 12-14, 21-23.
- June: 10, 11, 12, 20-21.
Those who are guided by popular signs, try to do this on the "women's" days of the week (Wednesday, Friday, Saturday). It is believed that in this case, carrots show better germination.
Video: when is it better to plant carrots
Preparing the beds for carrots is the same obligatory procedure as for all other crops. Although many gardeners neglect it, at best loosening the soil in the fall.
Carrots prefer a light substrate that does not retain water and does not interfere with normal aeration. Therefore, the bed will have to be dug up twice. The first time - to a depth of at least 30 cm, the second - 15–20 cm. In dense, heavy soil, root crops of the correct form and sizes typical of the variety do not ripen. 7-10 days after the second digging, the bed is covered with organic matter (a mixture of rotted compost or humus with peat crumb in approximately equal proportions), spending 5-7 l / m², and left until spring. Fresh manure under carrots is not recommended. It is better to use it in preparing the beds for the previous culture, that is, a year and a half before its planting.
For carrots, loosening of the soil is very important, so they carefully dig the bed more than once
You can fix the quality of the substrate. Ideal for carrots - chernozem, fertile loam, acceptable - sandy loam, forest sierozem, sod-podzolic soil. Powder clay at a rate of 10 kg per linear meter of a bed is necessarily added to very light soil. In dense muddy or peaty soil - sand in the same proportion. Carefully choose plant roots, pebbles, other rubbish. Faced with solid particles, root crops are deformed, bifurcated, bent.
Equally important is the acid-base balance. Culture prefers neutral soil. If this is not so, dolomite flour, slaked lime, crushed to a powdery state of the shell of raw chicken eggs, crushed chalk is introduced into acidic soil. A useful additive for an alkaline substrate is needles, fresh sawdust of coniferous trees, peat.
Dolomite flour - a natural deoxidizer of the soil, subject to the recommended dosage, it has no side effects
About 15–20 days before the planned planting, the soil is thoroughly loosened and fertilized, potash (10–15 g / m²) and phosphate (25–30 g / m²) applied. The most common of them are potassium sulfate, kalimagnesia, simple and double superphosphate. It is undesirable to use nitrogen (and especially to go too far with it). Unhealthy nitrates accumulate in root crops. The source of this macroelement will be organic matter introduced in the fall.
Those who for one reason or another refuse mineral fertilizers can replace them with sifted wood ash. It contains not only potassium and phosphorus, but also magnesium, sodium, iron, sulfur, zinc, molybdenum. This fertilizer is appreciated not only by adherents of subsistence agriculture, but also by those who prefer to collect carrot seeds on their own. Their experience indicates that when using mineral fertilizers they degenerate after 3-4 years. When planting, instead of one normal carrot, a “beard” is formed from many fibrous roots. They also argue that root crops fertilized with ash are better stored, never bitter, they have a more uniform core.
Wood ash is a very useful and completely natural fertilizer
If the substrate on the plot is ideally suited for carrots, as part of the preparation, it is enough to plant any siderat plants at the end of summer. Toward the end of October, the greenery is cut and planted in the soil. This is a great natural fertilizer.
Leaf mustard is one of the most popular siderates; it not only improves the quality of the substrate, but also repels many pests.
The optimal width of the beds for carrots is 0.8–1.2 m. If you make it already, you have to form several at once - with one it is simply impossible to get a plentiful crop. With a larger width, problems arise with weeding, watering, and harvesting. The length depends only on the area of the infield and the wishes of the gardener. There is no need to make the ridge too high, but it is still advisable to raise it by 10–12 cm. This will help to maintain moisture in the soil with a deficit of precipitation, and to get rid of its excess in heavy rain.
If you make the bed for carrots too narrow, it will not work to collect a plentiful crop, and on a wide one it is difficult to care for plantings
Preplant seed treatment
This stage of preparation is excluded only for granular carrot seeds resembling dragees, hybrids of foreign selection treated with fungicides and insecticides (painted in an unusual color). They are already fully ready to land. But such seeds are quite expensive, so many gardeners prefer to save money and do everything they need on their own. Moreover, there is nothing complicated about this.
Granular carrot seeds are completely ready for planting and do not need any additional procedures
You can make such pills and yourself, although you have to tinker. The basis of the composition is fresh manure diluted with water 1:10. The liquid must be mixed well and filtered several times through a dense cloth. Then it is boiled, in the process adding 20-30 ml of Kornevin or Heteroauxin, 2 g of zinc sulfate, 3 g of ammonium molybdenum acid, 0.5 g of copper sulfate, boric acid and potassium permanganate per liter. For stickiness, gelatin, sugar syrup, starch paste, a special pectin-based glue are added. Seeds are treated with the composition, spraying from a finely divided spray gun. Such carrots ripen 7-15 days earlier than usual.
The first thing to do is to check the germination of seeds. To do this, they are dipped in a solution of sodium chloride (15–20 g / l). 7-10 minutes are enough, then those in which there is no embryo floated to the surface. Planting them makes absolutely no sense.
Salt solution allows you to quickly determine the germination of any seeds
“Wake up” the seeds, during the winter staying in a kind of “hibernation”, help the stressful temperature changes causing stress. For 7-10 days, wrapped in a damp cloth, they are placed at night on the lower shelf of the refrigerator, and during the day they are kept in the warmest place of the apartment. Another option is alternating soaking in hot (40–50 ° C) and cool (18–22 ° C) water. For the first time, the processing time is five minutes, for the second - ten. The third time the seeds are poured with hot water and just let it cool. The procedure takes three days.
Gardeners also practice bubbling. This allows you to halve the period of seed germination. They are poured with soft, settled water at room temperature, a conventional aquarium compressor is connected and left for a day or a little less, saturating with oxygen.
Aquarium compressor saturates water with oxygen, for seeds it is very useful
Carrot seeds, especially harvested independently, may well be carriers of spores of pathogenic fungi, pathogens of viral diseases. Even if they were purchased at a store, disinfection should not be neglected. Seeds are poured into a linen or gauze bag and immersed in a thick pink solution of potassium permanganate for 2-3 hours.
Potassium permanganate - one of the most common disinfectants
Processing time can be reduced to 15–20 minutes if modern fungicides, copper-containing preparations of biological origin, are used. They are safe for human health and the environment. The most popular among gardeners are Phytosporin-M, Phytocide, Phytolavin, Alirin-B, Previkur. The treated seeds are washed under a stream of cool running water, dried to a state of flowability.
The final stage of processing is the use of biostimulants. The procedure is carried out about a day or two before planting, the seeds after it are not washed. Processing takes 6-8 hours. You can use both purchased drugs (Rizoplan, Epin, PhytoDoctor, Immunocytophyte) and folk remedies (potato and aloe juice, liquid honey diluted with water, succinic acid tablets, mumiyo, baking soda solution). A 0.02% solution of boric acid and a 0.01% solution of cobalt nitrate will help improve the future harvest.
Folk remedies cope with the task no worse than purchased biostimulants
If there is a desire to get earlier (about 4-7 days) and mass shoots, the seeds still need to be allowed to hatch. They are again wrapped in a damp cloth, gauze, a napkin and put in the warmest place in the room. The easiest way to put them in a saucer and put on a heating battery. It takes up to five days for the seeds to stick. In this case, treatment with biostimulants is excluded.
Germinated carrot seeds sprout noticeably faster
Especially carefully selected carrot seeds for sowing in the winter. They should be large, not deformed and necessarily dry. Any soaking during the preparation is excluded - the planting material will simply freeze.
Carrots in the garden are planted exclusively with seeds, seedling cultivation is not practiced. Subsequent transplantation, especially if the dive was also previously carried out, irreversibly damages the root. As a result (if the plant survives at all), the root crops are very small and uneven.
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To plant carrots in the ground, furrows are formed with a depth of 1.5–3 cm. The row spacing is about 20 cm. Seeds are not sown often, with an interval of 2–4 cm. The depth of the grooves is very important. If they are small, the seeds will be carried away by wind or water, deep - they simply will not germinate. About 2-3 hours before planting, each furrow is shed with boiling water, a little sifted wood ash is poured or crushed to a powdery state of an egg shell.
The seeds are sprinkled with soil, and they are rammed with palms of palms. If it is still cool enough on the street or frost is expected, it is better to tighten the bed before emergence with any covering material. Water it often, as the top layer of the soil dries up. When the seeds germinate, the intervals increase to 3-4 days.
During the growing season, if the climate allows, carrots can be planted three times - in spring, in the second half of June and in autumn, in the winter.
Video: landing in the open ground
Seeds in carrots are quite small, it is difficult to plant them evenly. To then avoid the thinning procedure, gardeners resort to using various devices. You can buy them in a store or make them yourself.
- Hand seeder. In fact, a seed tank with two wheels. The front is equipped with blades or spikes and is designed to form a furrow. Its smooth back covers and compacts the soil. The tank is equipped with a dispenser, which allows you to adjust the volume of seeds. There are more "advanced" designs - with several rows of wheels, additional containers for fertilizers and so on.
- Piston planter. An elongated plastic container, most often cylindrical. There is a piston above, a narrow hole below. The whole design resembles a syringe. The required volume of seeds, pressing the piston, squeezed into the furrows. To prevent them from scattering, the planter must be kept low, 5–7 cm above the soil surface.
- Funnel planter. It looks like a watering can with a long, very narrow nose. Seeds are poured into the container, it bends over the garden. To sow them more or less evenly, it is advisable to pre-train.
- Duct tape. In stores there is a special tape on which carrot seeds are already glued at the required interval. It just needs to be put in a furrow, covered with earth and moderately watered.
Hand seeder is easy to do yourself
Video: planting carrots with a hand seeder
Homemade appliances cope with the task no worse than store ones. To do this, you can adapt:
- Plastic bottles. The capacity of a small volume is closed with a stopper, a hole is made in it with a screwdriver. A plastic straw is inserted into it, fixed with tape or tape. Seeds are best mixed with fine sand or wood ash. Or with a paste made from flour and water (a tablespoon per liter).
- Cardboard egg cells. They are cut into longitudinal strips and dug into the garden. Seeds are sown in the obtained wells.
- Packages for medicines with a dispenser. They can be used if there is a button on them that allows you to remove one tablet and the ability to open the container.
- Old salt shakers, pepper shakers.
There are many homemade alternatives to a seed piston seed planter.
If the carrots are planted before winter, they deepen it more strongly, at least 5-6 cm. From above, the furrows are covered with exclusively warm soil, which is specially brought in for a day or two into the room. The bed is mulched with a mixture of humus and peat chips. You can also pour sand over the furrows - so it will be easier to find them in the spring.
Adhesive tape with carrot seeds is simply laid in the furrow, then covered with soil
Methods for planting carrots
Many gardeners are experimenting with methods of planting carrots and at the same time stably collect very good crops. Upon closer examination, it turns out that strange, at first glance, methods are not without obvious advantages.
In a bucket without a bottom
In addition to buckets, they use old barrels, pots and so on. Such a container can be placed in any corner of the garden plot with an acute shortage of space.
First you need to remove the bottom completely or drill a large number of drainage holes in it and in the walls. The container is approximately half filled with a mixture of ordinary garden soil and humus; approximately 2–2.5 weeks before planting, it is abundantly watered with a solution of any nitrogen fertilizer (10–15 g per 10 l).
Root crops grown in a bucket are presentable and very large
Before emergence, the bucket is closed - this eliminates the risk that the seeds will be washed from the soil or blown away. The substrate in the tank warms up faster, so the crop ripens earlier. Emerging shoots are covered with earth, gradually filling the bucket completely. During the summer, plantings require abundant watering and regular fertilizing with organic fertilizers. Carrots are smooth and very large.
A limited number of root crops can be grown in a bucket. Productivity increases markedly if you increase the planting area to a wooden box 20–25 cm high. Any organic debris will fall to the bottom in the fall, then humus and ordinary soil. Such a spring warms up much faster in the spring.
Under the mulch
Mulch effectively protects the soil from overdrying and overheating, significantly saving the gardener time on weeding weeds. The soil remains loose longer - this carrot is very fond of. It is a favorable habitat for earthworms producing humus.
The method also has a significant drawback - if freshly cut grass, hay, and straw are used as mulch, mice and other rodents are often planted there. The best option is humus, peat crumbs, green manure, nettle. Needles are not used, it strongly acidifies the substrate.
Mulching the beds with carrots, among other things, helps the gardener save time on weeding and increase the intervals between watering
The bed is covered with mulch when the seedlings grow to 12-15 cm in height, and the thickness of the root crop reaches the little finger. The soil by this time will probably warm up well - the mulch retains not only heat, but also coolness. A layer of 7-8 cm is poured. If you overdo it, the plants can simply “burn out”.
Video: features of mulching carrot beds
Hydrogel is a synthetic material, which is a small multi-colored balls or crystals. Absorbing water, they increase in volume, while loosening and moistening the substrate.
Hydrogel retains moisture for a long time, saturating the soil with it
When planting carrots, already swollen granules are placed in a furrow, spilled with warm water, and they are sprinkled with seeds from above. If you use a hydrogel, the risk of mold and rot is greatly reduced. Shoots appear noticeably faster - after about a week. Watering the bed is less common. This is especially important for gardeners who are not able to live permanently on the site.
The taste of jelly in this case is unimportant, therefore, it is prepared simply from starch and water. About 30 g is dissolved in 100 ml and, gradually pouring into a small (1 l) pan filled with water, bring to a boil. The finished mass should be viscous, but without lumps.
About one teaspoon of seeds is enough for one glass. They need to be thoroughly mixed and the liquid poured into a teapot, watering can with a narrow nose and so on.
Kissels with carrot seeds are thoroughly mixed so that they are distributed as evenly as possible
The prepared furrow is shed with jelly, covered with earth from above and slightly moistened. About 250 ml per furrow is sufficient. Starch is a good food for seeds, seedlings appear about a week earlier, seedlings develop more actively.
Video: jelly for planting carrots
Chinese carrots are grown in the combs. This allows the soil to warm up faster, plants receive more sunlight. Significantly reduces the risk of waterlogging. Harvest is easier to harvest.
The optimum height of the ridge is 20-30 cm. The interval between them is about 60 cm. They are formed by simply raking the upper, most fertile layer of soil on both sides. If the soil is poor, you can first distribute humus mixed with superphosphate and potassium sulfate (15 g and 30 g per 5 l, respectively) in the bed.
Chinese method of growing carrots requires the construction of high ridges
Seeds are planted in two rows on opposite sides from the top of the ridge. They are deepened by a maximum of 2 cm. During the first month, sufficient watering is important. To collect root crops, it is enough just to rake the ridges.
If you plant carrots too thick, then thinning will be needed. But this is a rather time-consuming procedure. In addition, it is easy to damage the roots of neighboring plants, which were planned to be left in the garden. There are planting methods to avoid thinning.
- Mix carrot seeds with fine sand. For 5 l, 1.5–2 tablespoons are enough. The resulting mixture is moderately moistened with water, after 10-15 minutes, preformed grooves resembling cement are uniformly filled with a mass. Sprinkle with ordinary soil on top, water again.
- Select seeds in granules. They are larger than ordinary and easily distinguishable in the ground due to the bright color. Seeds are simply laid out in the furrow one at a time with the required interval.
- Glue seeds in advance on a thin strip of toilet paper or other not very thick paper, maintaining the specified interval. A paste is used as glue; if desired, a few drops of a liquid biostimulant can be added. Paper in the soil quickly decomposes.
- Mix the seeds with water. It should be boiled, the optimum temperature is 28–30 ° С. One sachet is enough for a glass. Then the resulting mixture is collected in the mouth and simply spit out into the furrows. The method is original, but its effectiveness has been proven by several generations of gardeners.
Thinning for seedlings of carrots is a must if plantings are too thick, otherwise root crops simply do not have enough space
Video: landing methods without thinning
Carrots in the winter
Cultivation practice indicates that when planting in the winter, root crops are larger and sweeter than usual. But for long-term storage, they are not categorically suitable.
Landing area must be flat. Otherwise, the seeds will simply be washed off with melt water. Only mineral fertilizers are applied to the soil. The variety is chosen early ripe and cold-resistant (it is a variety, not a hybrid). These criteria are met carrots Chantane, Vitamin, Moscow winter, Nantes-4, Peerless. Seeds are taken ordinary, not granular.
Chantane carrots are quite suitable for planting in the winter
Landing is carried out already in frozen ground at daytime air temperature of no more than 2-3 ° C, soil - about -3 ° C. This is the first half of November, in the southern regions - December. Thaws are still possible in October - the seeds will begin to develop, hatch and die in the winter. They do not need to be pre-soaked and germinated. The normal rate on the furrow is increased by about 20%. Its depth is 5-6 cm.
When planting in autumn, carrot seeds need to be buried deeper than usual
Furrows are covered with warm earth from above, mulched with a mixture of peat crumb with humus or rotted compost, creating a layer with a thickness of at least 5 cm. The substrate is slightly compacted, covered with straw, leaves, foliage, lapnik. When enough snow falls, they dig a snowdrift. During the winter, it gradually settles, so it will be necessary to upgrade the structure 2-3 times, breaking the hard crust on the surface.
In mid-March, the bed is cleared of snow, tightened with black covering material on the arches. After the first shoots appear, the shelter is removed. Nursing care is usual. Harvested in the second decade of June.
Experienced gardeners advise planting radishes between rows of carrots. It rises earlier in the spring, indicating furrows. This greatly facilitates loosening and weeding.
Video: planting carrots in the winter
Carrots in the greenhouse
The profitability of growing carrots in a greenhouse in small garden plots is questionable. This only makes sense on an industrial scale. It is sown in a heated greenhouse in September, harvesting for the New Year and early March. Then the root crops will ripen in early June.
For planting, varieties of early and medium ripening are selected. They must be suitable for cultivation in closed ground. Suitable, for example, Minikor carrots, Airlie Nantes, Mokush, Amsterdam forcing, Red giant.
The planting scheme and preparation for the procedure is similar to that recommended for open ground. Practice shows that carrots grown in a greenhouse are less likely to suffer from diseases and pests, but preventive treatments should not be neglected.
Carrots are planted in an unheated greenhouse in early April. It is desirable that it be oriented from east to west and have a peaked, not domed roof. In such structures, the soil warms up faster. Before emergence, the soil is tightened with black covering material.
Video: growing carrots in a greenhouse
There is nothing supernaturally difficult to grow carrots. Many gardeners, just throwing the seeds in the garden, then receive a relatively good harvest. Nevertheless, if you take care in advance to create optimal or close conditions for the culture, it will more than thank the gardener. There are not so many requirements for carrots. Preplant seed preparation is especially important - it significantly improves their germination and the quality of future root crops. In addition to the traditional, there are non-standard methods of cultivation, which are not without certain undoubted advantages. Therefore, it makes sense to experiment at least in small beds in order to understand which method is best for you.