Apricot Pineapple - planting and growing

Apricot Pineapple - has long been known in the south of Russia and Ukraine. He gained popularity with his unusual taste and aroma of pineapple, as well as the size and juiciness of the berry. How and where to grow this wonderful fruit. Is it possible for a beginner gardener. What problems can be encountered in this case - we will try to find out.

Description of the variety and its popular species

Apricot Pineapple - the Russian name of the ancient Armenian variety Shalah. Apricots of this variety are popular in Armenia, Georgia, Azerbaijan. There they are grown on an industrial scale and used for processing. In the Nikitsky Botanical Garden, Shalakh appeared at the beginning of the last century, from where it spread to the southern regions of Russia and Ukraine.

Based on descriptions of nurseries selling Pineapple apricot seedlings, as well as data from several other sources and gardeners' reviews, the following resume was compiled.

Pineapple tree is medium-sized, fast-growing. But some sources say that it can reach five to six meters. Crohn is widely oval, spreading, prone to thickening. Early maturity is good - in the fourth year after planting, they receive the first fruits. The average maturity is the second half of July. Good yield of the variety is noted. According to various sources, from 50 to 150 kg of berries are picked from one tree per season (some also report about 200-300 kilograms from a tree). The regularity of flowering does not ensure the regularity of the crop. Gardeners of Crimea note that when rainy weather occurs during apricot flowering (and this happens quite often in Crimea), pollination does not occur and ovaries are not formed. Self-fertility is high, one tree may well grow on the plot and provide good yields. As already noted, Pineapple is a southern, heat-loving variety. Accordingly, its winter hardiness is low. Drought tolerance is average. Resistance to fungal diseases, which traditionally affects apricot, is average.

Pineapple apricot fruits are rather large - 30-50 grams. Some manage to grow berries weighing up to 90 grams or more. The shape of the berry is ovoid. Color - light yellow, golden. The surface of the berry is slightly pubescent, velvety, tuberous. Pulp of pineapple, cream color. Juicy, medium-dense, sweet, with a pleasant acidity and a light pineapple aroma. A relatively small bone is easily separated and contains an edible kernel.

The shape of apricot berries Pineapple - ovoid, yellow, large size

Fruits of universal purpose. Torn from a tree slightly immature, can be transported and stored well. The shelf life of fully ripened berries does not exceed 5–7 days.

Video: Apricot Pineapple

Apricot Pineapple Tsyurupinsky

Highlighted in the Nikitsky Botanical Garden and entered in the State Register in 2014. Zoned in the North Caucasus region. It has a medium-sized tree with a spreading, medium-thickened crown and straight, bare shoots of red-brown color. It has good winter hardiness - according to gardeners, the facts of cultivating the variety in Belarus are noted. Berry ripening is medium. As a rule, the crop is harvested in the second half of July. Productivity at industrial cultivation - 90 kg / ha.

The berries are round, weigh an average of 40 grams (some sources claim that the mass of fruits can reach 60–80 grams). The color of the berry is light yellow. The skin has no integumentary color, the structure is medium-rough, has a slight pubescence and velvety. Juicy pulp of light yellow color has a sweet and sour taste. Tasting score - 4.3 points. Universal fruits have good transportability.

Apricot Pineapple Tsyurupinsky berries light yellow

Gardeners note good variety autonomy, moderate drought tolerance and good immunity to major fungal diseases. Infertility - 3-4 years after planting.

Planting Apricot Pineapple

Planting Pineapple apricot in its rules and techniques does not differ from planting other apricots. And like the rest, this variety prefers dry, sunny places, protected from cold northerly winds. And since apricots are prone to rooting out roots and boles, they do not grow in swampy and flooded places. And also do not plant it in the shade - the tree will grow, but will not bloom. Soil composition is not very important for apricot, the structure is much more important. The tree will grow well and bear fruit on loose, drained soils, but he will not like it on heavy clay ones.

Usually they try to plant an apricot under the protection of a building wall, a fence or thick trees located to the north or northeast of the planting site. When this is not possible, experienced gardeners arrange shelters in the form of wooden shields painted in white for the first 2-3 years of life. This color helps to reflect sunlight, which provides additional lighting and heating of the crown. This is true when planting the apricot Pineapple Tsyurupinsky, which is grown in more northern areas. In the south, such precautions can be dispensed with.

Not only apricots will feel good under the protection of fences and walls of the house

It is best to purchase a seedling in the fall in specialized nurseries - in this case, the gardener will receive the best quality planting material. They take root well, quickly grow and one or two-year-old plants enter fruiting earlier. Older transplants tolerate worse. Choose a seedling with good, fibrous roots, on which there are no extraneous growths or cones. The bark is smooth, without cracks and damage.

In the southern regions, you can immediately plant apricot in a permanent place, but in the colder northern regions it is better to postpone this event until early spring. In any case, the seedling is planted in a dormant state during the period of lack of sap flow. Since spring planting is preferable, it will be considered. In the autumn, the purchased seedling is dug in the garden for storage. Do it this way:

  1. They dig a hole in the ground 30–40 centimeters deep and up to one meter long.
  2. A layer of sand is poured into the bottom. On top lay the roots of the seedling, previously soaked in a mash of clay and mullein.
  3. The roots are covered with sand and watered.
  4. The hole is completely filled with earth, leaving the top of the tree on the surface.

    In a dug seedling, only the top remains on the surface

If there is a suitable basement with a constant temperature of 0–5 ° C, you can store seedlings in it.

Step-by-step landing instructions

If a tree is planted in autumn, a pit is prepared 2-3 weeks before planting. For spring planting, the pit is being prepared in the fall.

  1. Preparation of the landing pit begins with its digging. The size should be 70–80 centimeters in diameter and the same in depth. If the soil is sandy, the pit volume is increased to one cubic meter or more.
  2. In the case of heavy soils, a drainage layer 10-12 centimeters thick is poured at the bottom. On sandy soils, a clay layer of the same thickness is laid to the bottom to retain water.
  3. After that, you need to completely fill the pit with a nutrient mixture consisting of equal parts of peat, chernozem, humus and sand. And also add 300-400 grams of superphosphate and 3-4 liters of wood ash.

    The pit is filled with a nutrient mixture consisting of equal parts of peat, chernozem, humus and sand

  4. The contents are mixed with a shovel or pitchfork and covered with a waterproof material until the moment of landing.
  5. Immediately before planting, the seedling is taken out and the roots are soaked for 2-3 hours in a bucket of water, where it is nice to add growth stimulants, for example, Kornevin, Heteroauxin, Epin.

    Before planting, the roots of the seedling are soaked in water for 2-3 hours

  6. Sapling roots are placed on a knoll and begin to backfill.
  7. Fall asleep evenly, ramming in layers. It is important to ensure that the root collar is at ground level as a result. It should not be buried, as this can lead to aging.
  8. Tie the tree to the peg with elastic material, without crushing the trunk.
  9. According to the diameter of the landing pit, a shaft of the near-stem circle is formed and watered abundantly with water. As a result, the fit of the soil to the roots and the absence of air sinuses should be ensured.
  10. On the second or third day, the soil is loosened and mulched.

    On the second - third day after watering, the trunk circle is loosened and mulched

  11. The stage is completed by cutting the seedling to a height of 60–80 centimeters and shortening the branches by 30–40% of the length.

Features of cultivation and subtleties of care

Apricot Pineapple is undemanding to care if planted in favorable conditions. In this case, the usual agrotechnical techniques and methods are applicable to it, which we recall briefly.


Needs rare but plentiful watering. If the season is without rains - watered in the following times:

  1. In the flowering period.
  2. In the period of formation and growth of ovaries.
  3. 2-3 weeks before harvest.
  4. After picking the fruit.
  5. Autumn water-loading irrigation.

It is clear that in rainy summers the number of irrigations is reduced or completely abandoned. The depth of soil moisture should be between 30–35 centimeters. On the second or third day after watering, the trunk circle is loosened and mulched.

Top dressing

If, as recommended, a sufficient amount of food is laid in the landing pit, then they resort to top dressing after collecting the first fruits.

Table: what and when to fertilize apricot

What makeWhen makeHow much and how do they contribute
Compost, humusEvery 3-4 yearsFive - seven kg / m2 for autumn or spring digging
Liquid organic top dressingIn early summer, after the formation of ovaries 2-3 times with an interval of 2 weeks. If there is no fruit in the current season, there is no need to feed.Insist in ten liters of water 2 liters of mullein, 1 liter of bird droppings or 5-6 kilograms of fresh grass. After a week, diluted with water 1: 10 and watered at the rate of one bucket per m2.
Ammonium nitrate, nitroammophosk or ureaAnnually in springClose up in the soil when digging at the rate of 20-30 g / m2
Potassium sulfate or monophosphateDuring the formation of ovaries and berry growthDissolved in water and watered at the rate of 10–20 g / m2
SuperphosphateAnnually in autumnClose up in the soil when digging at the rate of 30–40 g / m2
Complex fertilizers Apply in accordance with the attached instructions

Mineral and complex fertilizers should be applied only to pre-moistened soil.


When starting to trim, you need to know and follow the simple rules:

  • The cutting tool (saws, secateurs, delimbers, knives) must be sharpened and sanitized.
  • When cutting branches, knots should not be left.
  • Thick branches are cut in several steps.
  • Sections with a diameter of more than ten millimeters are protected with garden varieties or garden paint.

Forming Cut

Since the apricot pineapple tree is quite tall, it is more suitable for the well-known and tested sparse-tier crown formation. Perform it in early spring for several years in the following order:

  1. If the gardener made recommendations and took the first step of pruning when planting a tree, then after 1-2 years the first tier of skeletal branches is formed. To do this, choose 2-3 of the best branches located at a distance of 20-25 centimeters from each other and directed in different directions. They are shortened by 30%, the rest are cut “into a ring”. The central conductor is cut 20-30 centimeters above the upper branch.
  2. After another 1-2 years, the second tier of skeletal branches is formed in a similar way. On each of the branches of the first tier, 1–2 branches of the second order are selected and left, halved.
  3. After the next 1–2 years, the third tier of skeletal branches is formed, observing the principle of subordination. This means that the branches of the third tier should be shorter than the branches of the second tier. And they, in turn, should be shorter than the branches of the first tier.
  4. At the end, the central conductor is cut out at the base of the upper skeletal branch.

    Sparse-tier formation of the crown: a - pruning during landing; b - for 2-3 years; c - for 3-4 years; g - for 4–5 years

Adjust cropping

This operation is carried out in early spring when the crown is thickened by removing shoots growing inside.

Support Crop

In early summer, when there is an intensive growth of young shoots, they are shortened by 10-15 centimeters. This operation is called coinage and is aimed at encouraging the growth of new branches. They will form additional flower buds on them in the next season, which will give an increase in yield.

Sanitary pruning

In late autumn, as well as in early spring, dry, damaged and diseased branches are removed.

Diseases and Pests

These adversities will bypass the garden, in which sanitary and preventive measures are regularly held.


Work on the prevention of diseases and pests does not require significant effort and time.

Table: Garden Maintenance

What doWhen and how do
Collect fallen leavesIn the autumn, after the end of leaf fall, they rake and burn dry leaves, as well as other plant debris.
Sanitary pruningLate fall, cut branches burn
Whitewashed treesWith a solution of slaked lime or garden paint, whites and thick branches are whitened
Digging soilTrunk circles deeply dig with the flip layers of earth
Processed with blue vitriolMake a 3% solution with which the soil and crown are sprayed in late autumn and early spring
Set hunting beltsBelts are made from improvised means (roofing material, burlap, film) and winded to the trunks with a rope at a distance of 50 centimeters from the ground. Do it in the early spring.
Treated tree crowns and trunks with potent pesticidesApply in early spring DNOC - once every three years and Nitrafen - once a year
Treated with systemic fungicidesDo this regularly, every 2-3 weeks starting from the moment of flowering. Apply such drugs as Skor, Chorus, Quadris and others. Treatments after rains are especially important, since wet weather creates favorable conditions for the development of fungi.

Antifungal drugs are addictive, so using the same drug more than three times a season is ineffective.

Likely diseases

The main types of diseases to which apricot is susceptible are fungal. Prevention and treatment are carried out by the same fungicides.


The second name for the disease is hole spotting. It appears in the spring, when the pathogen spores with the wind fall on the leaves. Initially, red-brown dots appear on the surface of the leaves, which quickly - in 1-2 weeks - grow to 5-10 millimeters. Inside the stains, the flesh of the leaf dries and falls out. Holes form. Subsequently, the leaves turn yellow and crumble. In summer, berries become stained, which become inedible.

1–2 weeks after the defeat of claustosporiosis, the spots turn into holes


Infection usually occurs during flowering. Bees bring on the paws along with pollen spores of the fungus. First the flowers are affected, then the fungus spreads into the shoot and leaves. The affected parts fade first, then blacken, creating the impression of a burn with frost or flame. Hence the second name of the disease - monilial burn. If signs of moniliosis are detected, the affected shoots are immediately cut with a portion of healthy wood within 20-30 centimeters. In summer, the fungus moves to the berries, affecting with gray rot. Such berries need to be picked and destroyed.

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In summer, moniliosis affects apricot berries with gray rot


This is a bark disease. It occurs when there are untreated cracks. A fungus settles in them, which eats up bark and wood, making them rotten. Trying to heal the wound on its own, the tree secretes a significant amount of gum. Treatment, as well as prevention, consists in cleaning the wound to a healthy bark and wood, disinfecting with fungicides and treating the wound with garden var.

Gommosis occurs when there are untreated cracks in the cortex

Possible pests

Fortunately, insects are less likely to visit apricots than fungi. Yes, and fight them easier. As a rule, timely treatment with insecticides for a long time discourages fans from enjoying the fruits, leaves and roots of apricot.

Weevil beetle

This pest hibernates in the soil of the tree circle. In the spring, when the soil begins to warm up, the beetles crawl out and climb the crown to the trunk. Hungry, he first attacks the swollen buds, then eats flowers, ovaries, leaves and young shoots. In May, it starts laying eggs in the soil, from which the so-called khrushchas creep out.

Weevils feed on leaves of a tree and not only

If the soil has been dug up, all preventive treatments have been carried out, hunting belts have been installed, it is unlikely that the gardener will see this beautiful insect on the branches. Well, if the beetles moved in search of food from neighboring areas, then while the air has not yet warmed up, you can collect them manually. Do this in the morning when the air temperature does not exceed +5 ° C. At such times, the beetles are in a dormant state, numb sit on the branches. It remains to spread some fabric under the tree and shake off the handsome. Then the tree should be treated with insecticides such as Decis, Fufanon, Iskra-Bio, etc.


As mentioned above, Khrushchev is a weevil larva (its size is 4-6 mm). But not only him. The same larvae, only of a larger size, appear from eggs of May (20–25 mm), April (25–35 mm) and other beetles. All of them appear at about the same time - in early June. For three to four weeks, they feed on the roots of plants and can cause significant damage to the tree, especially young. Further, the larvae pupate and by the fall of them appears the next generation of weevils and other beetles. The fight lies in the soil cultivation with Diazonin. The drug remains effective for about three weeks - this is enough to exterminate the crunch.

Khrushchev is the larvae of various beetles

Diazonin does not accumulate in the soil and fruits - the gardener can use it without fear.


Aphids settle on leaves or shoots and feed on their flesh. This happens especially often when a hunting belt is not installed on the trunk and the ants freely bring these small insects to the crown. Aphids in the process of life emit a sweet, sticky liquid, which ants like to regale. Twisted leaves with aphids are torn off and sprayed with insecticides.

Aphids settle on leaves or shoots and feed on their flesh

Apricot does not bear fruit Pineapple - possible causes

There are times when the apricot does not bear fruit. There may be several reasons for this.

Apricot does not bloom

If it takes several years after planting, and the apricot has not bloomed, there may be something wrong with the place of planting. For instance:

  • The proximity of groundwater and roots began to warp. Correct the situation can only be a transfer to a new place. It is better to use the hill landing method in such places. Above the landing pit, a hill of nutrient mixture is equipped with a diameter of two meters and a height of at least 70 centimeters, on which a young tree is placed. In summer, an irrigation roller is made on the hill. In winter, the roller is cleaned so that melt water flows freely and does not stagnate.
  • The tree is planted in dense shade. Such errors cannot be made. A tree will not bloom in such a place until the crown grows higher and the branches fall under the sun.
  • Apricot may not bloom in some years, if the flower buds were affected by return frosts.
  • Massive defeat of the weevil during the swelling of the kidneys can lead to their unsuitability.

Apricot blossoms, but the fruits are not tied

A fairly common occurrence. As a rule, this happens when natural factors that interfere with pollination act during the flowering period. For example, strong winds blowing off pollen, long rains, snow, low activity of bees.

Bad weather during flowering - the reason for the lack of ovaries

The fruits are tied, but then crumble

Likely reasons:

  • Lack of nutrition, depleted soil. The plant is not able to bear fruit and discards them. The solution is obvious - feed the apricot.
  • The defeat of the ovaries by pests. If, after breaking the berry, the gardener sees the pest larvae eating out the insides, the diagnosis is correct. Insecticide treatment required.

Gardeners reviews

I have several apricots of different varieties. Самый вкусный из них сорт «Ананасный». Рекомендую тем, кто только собирается приобретать саженцы. Надо будет и себе попробовать вырастить из косточки. Ещё несколько деревьев такого сорта и мне не помешали бы.. Источник: //indasad.ru/forum/2-plodoviy-sad/2150-vyrashchivanie-abrikosa?start=10


У моей бабушки рос абрикос Ананаска, плоды были удлиненные светло-лимонного цвета, крупные. Для меня — это самый вкусный сорт абрикоса и свеженьким и в закатки, а сок какой ароматный !

Ксюшка, Херсон

История происхождения АнЦюруп очень интересна, но сажать надо не его, а Шалах, он очень сильно отличается от АнЦюр в лучшую сторону.

Сергий, Мелитополь

Абрикос Шалах. Тот, который типа ананасного

Абрикос Шалах, тот, который типа ананасного

Ceргий, Мелитополь

Сообщение от Павло7 Посмотреть сообщение За этот сорт скажу так. В Керчи во время весенних туманов гибнет очень много цветочных почек или они как то повреждаются, хотя рядом растут еще 2 сорта неизвестных, так же цветут бешено и т.д, сторона солнечная, вроде всего хватает, а урожай крайне малый(. Это правда, да у нас в Керчи неурожай с абрикосом — через год на третий. У меня самого 2 взрослых Ананаса Цурюпинска и когда отцветут без тумана — то собирую хороший урожай, даже на рынок выношу — расходился по 100рублей/кг в 2014году какгорячие пирошки, конкуренции ему- НЕТ

Роман Крым-Украина

Все правильно, соглашусь с вами, что на вашем фото — именно Ананасный Цюрупинский. От себя добавлю несколько строк в тему: У нас когда дерево первый раз заплодоносило (был 93–94 год, не помню), я первый раз в жизни увидел такие огромные абрикосы, отец до сих пор помнит, что в трехлитровый баллон вмещалось 8 штук. Косточка узкая, заостренная и небольшая, между мякотью и косточкой есть некоторая заметная пустота. Сейчас дерево старое и обильно плодоносит раз через 3 года, попробовал на днях радикально омолодить по кругу, посмотрим, что получится. Жду молодые побеги, если не получится, поеду за новыми саженцами. А сорт реально устойчив к клястероспориозу, у нас за все время я никогда не видел паршивых плодов на этом дереве. На листьях в отдельные годы появляются дырочки, но в основном листья всегда здоровые, что мне тоже очень нравится. Камеди также практически нет (видел только у надломаных ветвей). Единственный минус — если много дождей, абрикосы быстро гниют, если не на дереве, то собранными — через пару дней начнут в ящике. У соседей мелитопольский поздний (аналогичных размеров плоды, только немного другой формы (немного шире или круглее, как-то так) ораньжевого цвета и с румянцем, косточка у которого не вытянутая, а широкая), НО он не такой сладкий, как Ананасный, но зато мякоть мясистее (суше). Ананасный он сочный и нежный, волокнистый, я не представляю его в сушке. Z.Y. Добавлю, однолетние (прошлогодние-относительно текущей весны) побеги у него — коричневые. У мелитопольского позднего — бордовые. А шалах — плод вообще светложелтый с зеленцой небольшой, и к тому же вытянутый как яйцо, у меня недалеко от дачи на скале жерделька растет такого цвета. Цюрупинский не так сильно вытянут.

Все правильно, соглашусь с вами, что на вашем фото — именно Ананасный Цюрупинский

ArtemKolesnikov, Кисловодск

У нас дома пять видов абрикоса, но самый что ни наесть любимый так это правда ананасовый, брали в domisad.by несколько видов и больше всего понравился цюрупинский, подкупил тем что отличается довольно ранним вступлением в пору плодоношения, сорт не требователен к условиям выращивания, цветение позднее, урожайность очень высокая. Устойчивость к основным заболеваниям высокая, что сразу видно сразу по другим видам в саду.

Аннюттка, Минск

Pineapple - deservedly popular apricot. And it’s not so important - is it just Pineapple, Shalah or Tsyurupinsky. In any case, it is difficult to remain indifferent to seeing and tasting this spectacular berry. If it is possible to provide good conditions suitable for this variety, it is worth planting and growing this tree.


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