All About Growing Tsukesh Zucchini
Zucchini is a very popular garden culture in Russia. Surely every housewife has favorite recipes for home-made preparations and other dishes with this extremely useful vegetable. The assortment of seeds in the shops is very wide, there are also “classic”, familiar zucchini for everyone, and new breeding, sometimes looking more than unusual. But far from everyone is gaining popularity among gardeners. One of the most common in home gardens is the Tsukesh variety, which has a number of undeniable advantages.
What does Tsukesh's squash look like?
Homeland of Tsukesh zucchini - Ukraine. It has been included in the State register of breeding achievements for a long time, back in 1986. The cultivar is advised to cultivate in the Far East and the European part of the territory of Russia, but from practice and accumulated experience it follows that Tsukesha perfectly adapts to temperate climates almost everywhere.
A variety from the category of early ripening. From seed germination to harvesting the first fruits, 51 days pass. You can cultivate Tsukesh under film cover, and just in the garden. If available, these zucchini are planted in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Early maturity allows even in temperate climates to get a crop when planting seeds immediately in the garden.
Tsukesha - a variety of zucchini, stably enjoying great popularity among Russian gardeners
Tsukesha belongs to the category of zucchini-zucchini. Compared with the "classic", they have a number of significant advantages, although they differ a little more demanding care. Zucchini is not least valued for its compact bushes and early ripening. Their average yield is twice, and sometimes four times higher, than that of ordinary zucchini. The fruits are one-dimensional, regular in shape, very presentable, distinguished by a bright skin color. The taste is just wonderful. The zucchini's pulp is tender, they can even be eaten raw.
The plants of Tsukesha are compact, bushy. There are no long side lashes spreading over the site, the main shoot is short. This is one of the undoubted advantages of the variety. Such zucchini can be grown even on the notorious “six hundredths, ” where every square centimeter of space counts. The leaves are large, five-lobed, highly dissected. A “pattern” of blurry grayish-white spots is characteristic. This is the norm for the variety, and not some exotic disease. The leaves are harsh to the touch, but not prickly. Flowers of a bright saffron hue, large. On one plant, both “male” and “female” flowers are formed. This avoids pollination problems. Bees, bumblebees, and other insects are sometimes not very active in the spring, especially if the weather is rainy and cool.
Bushes at Tsukesha are quite compact, the plant is not climbing
The fruits are painted in a deep dark green color with small blotches of salad hue, manifesting as the ripe. The skin is glossy. The shape is regular, cylindrical, only at the peduncle the squash is slightly flattened. The average length is about 40 cm, the thickness is 12 cm. Weight rarely exceeds 1 kg, most often vegetables weigh 850–900 g. But you can also tear the so-called milk ripeness, grown to 12–15 cm and weighing no more than 200 g The pulp of such fruits is very tender, the seeds are small, soft, almost imperceptible. They can be eaten without heat treatment, even with the skin. These zucchini are also good in homemade preparations. The pulp retains its characteristic shade and elasticity, does not turn into porridge during cooking and stewing.
Tsukesh's zucchini looks very presentable, the content is consistent with the form - the taste deserves only rave reviews
The peel, even in fully ripened fruits, does not coarsen, remains thin. At the same time, it is strong enough, which ensures good shelf life (up to 7–8 months in optimal or close conditions) and transportability. The pulp is juicy, crisp, whitish-green, without voids. Seed chambers are small. Tasting qualities deserve only rave reviews. At the height and productivity. From 1 m², an average of 11-12 kg of zucchini is obtained. The fruiting of Tsukesha is amicable, massive. It begins in the last decade of June and stretches until August. Harvest preferably harvested regularly and on time. But even overripe zucchini are not rude, their taste also does not suffer. Only the color changes - the fruits acquire a yellow-orange tint.
Both fully ripened fruits and very small zucchini are consumed, vegetables can even be eaten raw and unpeeled
The variety is rarely affected by gray rot. In general, his immunity is pretty good. But this does not mean that Tsukesh is completely insured against all diseases typical of the culture and that pests do not pay attention to him.
Not without variety and individual flaws. Most often, gardeners note the demandingness of the plant for regular and regular watering. Tsukesha is very negative about overdrying the substrate, especially during flowering and in the process of fruit formation. With a shortage of sunlight, yield is significantly reduced. And also the plant tolerates the transplant very poorly, moving away from this “stress”, as from a serious illness.
Zuchesh squash is excellent for salads, side dishes, all kinds of main dishes
Video: Health Benefits of Zucchini
The growing season at Tsukesh's squash is quite short, but often gardeners plant seedlings in the ground to get the crop even faster. The plant is very negative about the transplant, but it can be avoided if the seeds are sown immediately in separate peat pots with a diameter of not more than 10 cm. There is another feature. The experience of gardeners indicates that Tsukesh, grown in seedlings, is stored worse than specimens obtained from plants formed from seeds planted directly in the garden.
Planting Tsukeshi seeds in peat pots further avoids the stress associated with transplanting
The procedure for planting seeds for seedlings can be planned for the last decade of April and the first half of May. Gardeners with experience do this several times with an interval of 4–5 days, with the help of this “trick”, maximally prolonging the fruiting period. If Tsukesha will be cultivated in a greenhouse or under cover, the dates will shift two weeks ahead. On average, it takes about a month to grow seedlings. Seedlings at this point should have at least three true leaves.
As for the substrate, Tsukesh is unpretentious in this regard. A universal storey primer for seedlings is quite suitable for him. But you can prepare the soil yourself by mixing humus, fertile turf, rotted sawdust and peat crumb (2: 2: 1: 1). The substrate must be disinfected in any way possible. It can be calcined in the oven, frozen, steamed or spilled with a solution of potassium permanganate pink-purple hue. To protect young seedlings from fungi and other pathogens, crushed chalk or sifted wood ash (a tablespoon of 2 l) is added to the mixture.
Tsukeshu is quite satisfied with the purchase of universal soil for seedlings
Preplant planting for zucchini seeds is a must. Variety Tsukesh is appreciated for good germination, but these indicators can be further improved. The simplest thing is to wrap the seeds in a paper or linen napkin, gauze, and so on and remove them for a week or a little less in a warm place (for example, put a saucer with them on a battery, another heating device), not forgetting to wet the fabric as it dries. For this, only soft water is used - thawed, rain, spring or at least settled. Ordinary tap water contains chlorine, which Tsukesh categorically does not tolerate. Accordingly, it is necessary to abandon certain fertilizers, for example, potassium chloride.
Germination of zucchini seeds increases the percentage of their germination
You can also soak the seeds for 12–16 hours in a crimson potassium permanganate solution, wood ash infusion, or root formation stimulator. The desired effect can be achieved both with purchased store-bought preparations (Epin, Emistim-M, Heteroauxin) and folk remedies (aloe juice, succinic acid, honey diluted with water). At the same time rejection is carried out. Pop-up “empty” seeds can be thrown away immediately. It is pointless to plant them, there will definitely not be seedlings.
Tsukeshi seeds can be purchased at the store or collected independently
The experience of gardeners indicates that the best results are achieved with the use of so-called shock therapy. For one week at night, seeds mixed with wet peat or sand are kept in the refrigerator, in the daytime in bright light at room temperature.
To grow seedlings of zucchini, you need to proceed as follows:
- Fill peat pots with prepared substrate. Pour it abundantly with water, warmed to room temperature and left to stand. After about half an hour, it is absorbed. Plant two seeds in one tank, dipping them a couple of centimeters or a little more.
- Cover the container with glass or tighten with a transparent film. Put in a dark warm (25–27ºС) place and keep there until the seeds give mass shoots. Ventilate daily while disposing of accumulated condensate. As the top layer dries (2-3 cm), moisten the substrate from the spray gun. The first seeds germinate in about a week.
- After the emergence of mass shoots remove the "greenhouse". Move the containers to a place where the seedlings receive the best lighting. It is impossible to provide daylight hours of the required duration (10-12 hours) naturally in most of the territory of Russia. Therefore, the seedlings will have to be clarified. Suitable for this are both ordinary (luminescent, LED), and special phytolamps. In the first week, the temperature is lowered to 15–18 ° C during the day and 13–15 ° C at night, then maintained at 20–22 ° C.
- Provide regular access to the room of fresh air, while avoiding sharp drafts. Feed twice. After seven days after removing the shelter, the zucchini is watered with a solution of any nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizer (2–2.5 g / l). One and a half weeks after the first top dressing, use any complex means for seedlings (Bud, Rostock, Kemira-Lux), diluted according to the instructions. The consumption rate in both cases is 15–20 ml of solution per plant. Water the seedlings with water at room temperature twice a week. Waterlogging of the soil for them is likely to be fatal. Enough 100 ml per pot.
- In the phase of the first real sheet, reject. If both seeds sprouted in the same container sprouted, they leave that instance that demonstrates the best development. The second is carefully trimmed or pinched near the soil itself.
- A week and a half before transplanting to the garden, you can begin to harden seedlings. In the first 2-3 days, a few hours in the open air is enough for them. Gradually, this time is extended, leaving them in the end even to “spend the night” on the street. This procedure will make it easier for plants to adapt to a changing habitat.
Hardening helps zucchini to adapt faster to new habitats
Video: how to plant zucchini seeds and take care of seedlings
Adult seedlings of zucchini are transferred to the garden in cloudy weather. But at the same time, the street should already be warm enough - about 20–23 ° C during the day and 16–19 ° C at night. Wells are formed in advance, adhering to the recommended planting pattern. For bush varieties of zucchini, which includes Tsukesh, 60–70 cm between plants is enough, the same interval is maintained between rows.
Depth depends on the quality of the substrate - if it is “light”, sandy, it is 10–12 cm, in “heavy” soil - not more than 8 cm. Wells must be watered well with heated (30–35 ° C) water, it’s necessary to plant zucchini in "mud". At the bottom lay a tablespoon of simple superphosphate or wood ash, a handful of humus, onion peel (this is an effective folk remedy, the pungent smell of which scares away many pests).
Before and after planting zucchini seedlings, the soil on the bed must be well watered
Seedlings are buried to the first true leaves. The substrate is compacted very carefully, then the plants are watered again abundantly, constructing at a distance of 25-30 cm from the stem a low annular “shaft” from the soil. Drops should not be allowed to fall on leaves and stems. Until the zucchini starts to grow, arcs are placed above the bed and a suitable covering material is pulled over them (white, air-permeable). Other methods of protection from the bright sun are caps made of thick paper, “paws” of spruce, larch. Around the 20th of June, shelter can be removed.
Planting zucchini seeds in the garden and its preparation
The Tsukesh variety is not particularly capricious. This can be said about the place of cultivation, and about the requirements for soil quality. However, to obtain abundant harvests, it is desirable to create optimal or close conditions for the crop, if possible. The main requirement made by Tsukesha is adequate lighting, respectively, the place for the beds is selected open and sunny.
For planting Tsukesh's zucchini, an open place is chosen that is well warmed up by the sun.
He also does not like acidic substrate and groundwater close to the soil surface. You can neutralize excessive acidity by adding dolomite flour, slaked lime or egg shells crushed to a powder state into the soil during digging (200-400 g / m²). Avoid excessive moisture - growing a crop in ridges 50-60 cm high.
Dolomite flour - a natural deoxidizer of the soil that does not have side effects while observing the recommended dosage
Any zucchini should be planted away from other plants from the Pumpkin family. Also, cucumbers, squash, pumpkins are unsuitable precursors for culture. In the presence of a number of “relatives”, most likely, there will be pollination with an unknown result in advance, productivity will noticeably decrease, in the second, the same nutrients are constantly “sucked out” from the soil. In the garden pathogens and their spores accumulate, pests lay their eggs there and their larvae hibernate. We must not forget about crop rotation. Ideally, zucchini should be moved to a new place every year, if the area of the garden does not allow this - at least once every 3-4 years. Well, the culture grows after onions, garlic, any Solanaceae, herbs, green manure, carrots, beets, all kinds of cabbage.
Garlic is a good predecessor for zucchini, unlike any of its "relatives"
The bed is prepared in advance, in the fall of the previous season. Dig up the soil to a depth of 35–40 cm, applying fertilizers - 5 kg of humus, 20 g of potassium sulfate and 30 g of simple superphosphate per m². In May or the end of April, a week and a half before planting, the substrate is well loosened, fertilizing with nitrogen (10-15 g / m²) is added.
Another option for regions with a temperate climate is the so-called warm bed. A layer of foliage, wood shavings, sawdust, small twigs, and other plant debris about 10 cm thick is covered up to a depth of 50-60 cm. They are covered with fertile soil or humus mixed with potash and phosphorus top dressing. All this is abundantly watered with a solution of nitrogen-containing fertilizer (20–25 g per 10 l), covered with a plastic wrap and left until spring. The soil in such a bed warms up much faster, you can plant zucchini and get a crop earlier for one and a half to two weeks. But the experience of gardeners indicates that when grown on such a bed, the bushes quite often “eat” at the expense of fruiting, and the flesh of the vegetables turns out to be dull, as if cottony and not juicy, when the summer weather is not very successful.
Zucchini seeds are planted in the garden, the likelihood of new frosts is minimal. In temperate regions, this is usually the last of May or early June. The substrate at a depth of 20 cm should warm up to at least 15 ° C. Somewhere 7-8 days before the planned procedure, it is disinfected by pouring a solution of potassium permanganate on a dark pink hue. The pre-planting preparation described above is mandatory, it is advisable to plant those seeds that have already hatch. The interval between the wells can withstand the same as for seedlings. 2-3 seeds are planted in each, sprinkling them on top with a layer of humus mixed with fine sand, 4-6 cm thick. Then you will need to leave only one, the most powerful sprout. It is better to sow seeds several times with an interval of 5-6 days, thereby prolonging the fruiting period.
It’s not worthwhile to deeply deepen the seeds of zucchini when planting, you just can’t wait for seedlings
Until the first shoots, the soil is kept under a film. Seedlings are covered with cropped plastic bottles or covered with zucchini covering material of white color, letting air through, in arcs. After about a couple of weeks, it is already being removed for a day, and after a month you can remove the shelter completely.
Caring for seedlings is not much different from what seedlings require at home. In addition, regular loosening of the soil and weeding is mandatory. We must not forget about the prevention of pests, for young seedlings they are much more dangerous than for adult plants. It is desirable that from the north the seedlings would be covered by a barrier of artificial or natural origin - a fence, a wall of a building, structure, other structure, a "wings" made from corn or other tall plants.
Of the seedlings that appeared in each hole, only one, the most powerful and developed, is left
If zucchini is grown in a greenhouse, in the autumn, the soil is dug up (or replaced altogether), disinfected. Regular ventilation is required. At too high temperatures, the bushes intensively build up green mass, and this increases humidity. Raw stale air is a very suitable medium for pathogens of many diseases and most pests. And zucchini in such conditions often shed ovaries. To avoid this, you need to cut 3-4 leaves from the bottom of the stem.
Video: procedure for planting zucchini seeds in the garden
How to care for the culture
Caring for any zucchini is not particularly difficult. The Tsukesh variety is no exception. The main component of competent agricultural technology is proper watering and top dressing.
When the plants form 4–5 true leaves, a little fertile soil or humus is poured to the base of the stem, as if hilling zucchini. This stimulates the formation of a larger number of subordinate roots.
The ovaries and flowers should be well ventilated. Be sure to cut off all the leaves of Tsukeshi lying on the ground, as well as those that obscure future zucchini, especially from the southern and eastern sides. But zealous with this is not worth it. You can remove a maximum of 2-3 sheets at a time.
The variety belongs to the category of early ripe, so for the season it needs only three top dressings. It is advisable to use natural organics, but purchased fertilizers have not the worst effect. Zucchini is watered with a nutrient solution at the time of bud formation, immediately after the flowers fall and after another 12-15 days. Зелёную массу растения в большинстве случаев наращивают достаточно активно и без дополнительной стимуляции, поэтому без азотных удобрений можно обойтись.
Для первой подкормки в 10 л воды разводят 10–15 г Нитрофоски, Азофоски, Диаммофоски. Ещё можно использовать комплексные средства, предназначенные специально для кабачков (Эффектон, Завязь, Мастер, Кемира-Люкс). Норма расхода на каждый куст — примерно пол-литровая банка раствора.
Нитрофоска — комплексное удобрение с содержанием азота, фосфора и калия
Вторая подкормка — настой свежего коровьего навоза, птичьего помёта, зелени крапивы, одуванчиковых листьев. Приготовить его несложно. Измельчённое сырье заливают водой и несколько дней до появления характерного «аромата» настаивают в ёмкости под плотно прикрытой крышкой или гнётом. Готовую подкормку процеживают и разбавляют водой в пропорции 1:10 или 1:15, если в качестве сырья был использован помёт. На куст кабачков достаточно литра раствора.
Настой крапивы (в принципе, можно использовать любые растущие на участке сорняки) – натуральное и абсолютно бесплатное удобрение
Для увеличения урожайности и продления периода плодоношения кабачкам нужен калий. The natural source of this macroelement is wood ash. Её подсыпают к корням в сухом виде в процессе рыхления или готовят настой (пол-литра сырья на 3 л горячей воды).
Wood ash - a natural source of potassium and phosphorus
Если растения отстают в развитии, выглядят не слишком здоровыми, для улучшения иммунитета можно раз в месяц опрыскивать их раствором карбамида (8–10 г на 10 л).
Внекорневые подкормки азотсодержащими удобрениями положительно сказываются на иммунитете кабачков
Правильный полив — необходимое условие обильного урожая. Молодые кабачки поливают раз в 5–7 дней, расходуя по 1, 5–2 л воды на растение. После цветения норму увеличивают до 10–12 л, а интервалы между процедурами сокращают до 3–4 дней. Корректируют их, ориентируясь на погоду на улице. В сильную жару кабачки поливают ежедневно или даже дважды в день.
Кабачок — влаголюбивая культура, это касается как молодых сеянцев, так и взрослых растений
Самый подходящий момент для процедуры — раннее утро или поздний вечер. Нельзя, чтобы капли попадали на листья, стебли, цветки и плодовые завязи. Весьма вероятно развитие гнили, особенно если стоит холодная погода. Воду лучше лить в кольцевые канавки или бороздки в междурядьях. Также неплохой вариант — капельный полив. Ни в коем случае нельзя поливать кабачки холодной водой, например, из скважины.
В процессе полива кабачка старайтесь избегать попадания капель на листья и стебли, чтобы не спровоцировать развитие гнили
После каждого полива субстрат желательно разрыхлять, но неглубоко, чтобы не пострадали корни, располагающиеся близко к поверхности. Жёсткая корка, образующаяся на грядке, препятствует нормальному воздухообмену.
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Урожай кабачков убирают по возможности регулярно, хотя и оставленные на грядке плоды Цукеши долго не перезревают, сохраняя тонкость кожицы, вкусовые качества и нежность мякоти. Для уборки плодов выбирают тёплый сухой день. Их срезают (именно срезают, а не откручивают и не отрывают) острым чистым ножом вместе с частью плодоножки длиной 5–6 см. Под плоды, предназначенные для длительного хранения, желательно заранее подложить куски фанеры, рубероида, стекла, иного водонепроницаемого материала, препятствующего развитию гнили. Ещё можно мульчировать почву на грядке. Эта же процедура помогает сэкономить время на прополке и задержать влагу в почве.
Кабачки Цукеша желательно срезать хотя бы раз в 3–4 дня, остающиеся на кусте плоды «тормозят» формирование новых завязей
Для закладки на хранение отбирают только не переросшие зрелые плоды, без следов механических повреждений. Кожица у них должна быть гладкой, одноцветной, без подозрительных пятен, напоминающих следы плесени, гнили, поражения иными болезнетворными грибками. Перед тем как убрать их в погреб или подвал, кабачки в течение 4–6 часов оставляют на открытом воздухе. Мыть овощи нельзя. Хранят их, разложив в картонные коробки, деревянные ящики, на стеллажи. Плоды не должны касаться друг друга и стенок ёмкости, полки, поэтому слои пересыпают мелкими клочками газетной бумаги, опилками, древесной стружкой, песком и так далее. Хранят кабачки при температуре 5–10°С и влажности воздуха не более 60% в тёмном помещении с хорошей вентиляцией.
Кабачки, предназначенные для длительного хранения, должны быть абсолютно здоровыми
Иной способ сберечь урожай надолго — заморозка. Кабачки не теряют пользы и вкуса в течение 8–10 месяцев. Расфасовывают их по пакетам небольшими порциями. Разморозка и повторная заморозка им категорически противопоказаны. Также не стоит забывать и о домашнем консервировании. У каждой хозяйки есть свои любимые рецепты с кабачками.
Заморозка кабачков позволяет сохранить кабачки максимально надолго без ущерба для их вкуса и пользы
Те плоды, что лежат в холодильнике, можно завернуть в полиэтиленовую плёнку. Чаще всего туда убирают молодые недозрелые цукини. «Срок годности» у них небольшой, не более месяца-полутора.
Еще один способ хранения кабачков — домашнее консервирование
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Tsukesh has good immunity. But he is not completely immune from diseases, especially if caring for the plant is far from ideal. Contribute to the development of fungi and thickened plantings.
The following diseases are most dangerous for the plant:
- Powdery Mildew The leaves are covered with a whitish powder coating. Gradually it “thickens” and darkens. Yellowish spots spread around the affected tissue areas, the leaves dry and die.
- Anthracnose. Leaves are covered with yellowish-brown spots, stems - with small pinkish “warts”, gradually turning into black-brown depressed “ulcers”.
- Root rot. The base of the stem turns brown and softens, resembling a rotten stump. It’s unpleasantly slimy to the touch. On the leaves and fruits, “wet” brown spots appear, the soil is drawn in by whitish mold, and an unpleasant putrefactive odor spreads.
Photo gallery: symptoms of diseases dangerous for Tsukeshi
- Powdery mildew on the leaves of zucchini seems to be a harmless coating that is easy to erase, but in fact it is a dangerous disease
- It is almost impossible to notice the development of root rot on time, for a long time the disease does not manifest itself in the aerial part of the plant
- Plants affected by anthracnose slow down sharply in development, eating fruits from them is not recommended
To avoid infection by pathogenic fungi, beds with zucchini are surrounded around the perimeter with onions and garlic. During the season, plants are sprayed weekly with foam of green potash or laundry soap, a solution of soda ash. Sprinkle the substrate with colloidal sulfur, the zucchini themselves with wood ash. Instead of ordinary water, the bushes are periodically watered with a pinkish solution of potassium permanganate. Folk remedies help to cope with the disease at the initial stage of development. The most common of them - water-diluted kefir or whey (1:10) with the addition of iodine (drop per liter), a solution of colloidal sulfur, infusion of onion or garlic arrows. To avoid the use of "heavy artillery" in the face of chemicals, regularly inspect landings.
Potassium permanganate solution - one of the most common disinfectants
In the absence of effect, copper-containing preparations, fungicides, are used. There are tools that have been tested by several generations of gardeners (copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid), and more modern (HOM, Kuprozan, Oleuprit, Topaz, Skor). The least harm to plantings is caused by preparations of biological origin (Ridomil-Gold, Bayleton, Tiovit-Jet, Alirin-B, Raek).
Bordeaux liquid is sold in any specialized store, but you can also prepare it yourself
Do not feel sorry for plants that can no longer be helped. If the disease was not noticed on time, the bush is torn out and burned. The substrate in this place is shed with 5% copper sulfate for disinfection.
Pests hazardous to culture:
- Slug. Holes eat out in the tissues of leaves and fruits, leaving a sticky, silvery coating on the surface. For prevention, the base of the stem is surrounded by a “barrier” of pine needles, wood ash, hot pepper, ash, sand, egg shells or any nuts. Deep tanks are dug into the soil, filling them with beer, kvass, chopped cabbage leaves. The soil in the garden and the plants themselves are sprayed with infusions of wormwood, tansy, marigold, lavender. A good effect is given by the manual collection of pests. In the case of a massive invasion of slugs (this happens extremely rarely), Meta, Thunderstorm, and Sludge are used.
- Spider mite. Buds and fruit ovaries are braided with thin, almost transparent threads, similar to a web. Pale yellow spots blur on the leaves, they are deformed and dry. For prevention, plants are sprayed with infusions of onion or garlic gruel, a decoction of cyclamen tubers. In the fight against pest, folk remedies are ineffective. Acaricides are immediately used (Omayt, Apollo, Neoron, Vertimek). Usually 3-4 treatments are sufficient. The intervals between them depend on the weather on the street. The hotter, the more often you need to spray zucchini. Each time it is advisable to use different drugs.
- Gourd aphids. Small greenish insects in a continuous layer stick to the inside of the leaves, buds, fruit ovaries. The affected tissue is covered with small beige dots, the leaves curl and dry. Fight off the pest by spraying zucchini with infusions of any sharply smelling herbs, pods of chili pepper, lemon or orange peel, mustard powder. Using the same means, it is possible to combat aphids by reducing the intervals between treatments from 10-12 days to 3-4 times a day. Of the chemicals, any general-purpose insecticides are suitable - Confidor-Maxi, Aktara, Actellik, Fury.
- Sprout fly. A specific pest of Pumpkin, the larvae of which eat out seeds and destroy young seedlings. For prevention, put onion husks in the wells during planting, plants are sprayed with infusions of tops of tomatoes or potatoes. A vinegar essence or ammonia diluted with water (2-3 drops per liter) is also suitable. To fight the fly use the preparations Iskra-Bio, Inta-Vir, Mospilan, Admiral.
Photo gallery: what pests attacking Tsukesh look like
- Zucchini. damaged by slugs, dramatically lose in presentability and keeping quality
- The spider mite is not an insect, therefore, special drugs - acaricides are used to combat it
- Aphids - one of the most "universal" garden pests, it also does not pass zucchini
- The main damage to the plantings is caused by the larvae of the germ fly, but this does not mean that adults do not need to be fought
I have many years in the favorites squash Tsukesh. The most delicious! Gribovsky did not impress with either early maturity or taste. For me, Cavili is the earliest, Tsukesha is the most delicious.
Tsukesh is always planted. Last year, heaped up with fruits, and lie for a long time. Now steers along with hybrids.
My zucchini is sitting on a warm bed, even in a pit. In the fall, all the vegetable residues were collected there, in the spring - a bag of horse manure and planted zucchini. Tsukesh crushed everyone with power, the leaves are huge, spiky. But I can’t say that it’s very harvested: probably from the abundance of “food”. Basically, the tops are luxurious.
Tsukesha - my lifesaver, this year let me down, there is no abundance. Every year, I plant new varieties, except Tsukesha, only three bushes - there were enough for 11 people, and they distributed more.
Tsukesha is a variety of zucchini that have a bush shape, which means they take up little space in the garden, have a wonderful taste and are well preserved. Unlike foreign hybrid varieties, they are perfectly stored and transported.
Tsukesha is a wonderful variety of zucchini. And what I liked about him is that even when the zucchini has outgrown, it can be cleaned, and inside it is tender, and the seeds too, and any dish you like can be made from it.
The advantage of the Tsukesh variety is that it is bushy and takes up little space in the garden, it does not creep along it and the taste qualities of zucchini are simply wonderful.
The new variety of Tsukesh zucchini is distinguished by its bushiness and this is exactly what I like. I don’t have a lot of land, each shred is worth its weight in gold, so the appearance of this variety can save the area of the garden.
Zucchini squash (zucchini) is an early high-yielding variety. The period from seedlings to fruiting 42-50 days. The plant is bushy, compact. The fruit is cylindrical. The surface is smooth, green, with small light green dots. Weight 0.8–0.9 kg. The pulp is light yellow, dense, crunchy, tender. The transportability of the fruit is good.
I have never had land or a summer residence. But everything once comes time, and I was drawn to the ground. I bought a small plot. I decided to plant something unpretentious. The choice fell on the zucchini. I bought two bags of Tsukesh seeds at a seed store. Planted. You can’t even imagine how many zucchini has grown in my garden! They began to bear fruit quite early, and until the cold weather. My husband did not even believe that I planted only two bags. At least ten, he insisted. Awesome squash crop I had that year. Zucchini is very tasty, delicate, thin skin.
Our family loves vegetables. And perhaps, among all the vegetables, zucchini comes first. This year I bought Tsukesha. There were ten seeds in the package, exactly half of which sprouted. Put in the holes around the beginning of June, around the 20th of July the first squash went. Simple care - watering, weeding and loosening. Fruits are very plentiful. The picture shows narrow and elongated fruits. But I have almost no such copies. If zucchini is narrow, then it is short, if it grows a little more authentic, then, accordingly, wider. The peel of young fruits is thin, but quickly coarsens. Perhaps due to this, they are perfectly stored until winter. The pulp is tender, quite juicy. I like this variety because it is resistant to aging (so to speak), that is, even overgrown fruits have very tender flesh without large seeds.
Zucchini on personal plots grows the vast majority of gardeners. This culture is relatively unpretentious in care, very productive. The fruits are not only tasty, but also bring health benefits. Variety Tsukesha bred a long time ago, but still enjoys steady popularity among gardeners, despite the constant competition from the latest achievements of breeders. Its undoubted advantages include the palatability of fruits, their presentability, regular fruiting, and remarkable germination of seeds. The presence of minor flaws is also noted, but they do not spoil the overall picture.