Aeschinantus: how to please a luxurious, but whimsical handsome
A plant called eskhinantus is very familiar with few of the Russian indoor flower lovers. Until now, this Tropican is exotic for our apartments. Aeschinanthus has an attractive appearance: its long shoots are dressed in harsh bright leaves, and the ends are decorated with scarlet flowers directed upwards. But the character of this handsome man is very moody, not everyone can please him. Although the difficulties of some gardeners are not scared, they assure that the eskhinantus is fully educated, you just need to find the right approach to it.
The origin, appearance and features of eskhinantusa
The homeland of eskhinantus is the tropical forests of southeast Asia. In the natural environment, the plant lives in Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia and Malaysia. This is an epiphytic bush adapted for life in isolation from the earth, on snags, trees or stones. For such a mode of existence, eskhinantus has long (about half a meter) creeping stems and thick leaves that are capable of storing moisture. It is convenient - rains in the tropics are rare, but plentiful. In the native land, the plant is accustomed to warm, moist air and diffused but bright sun.
Another popular epiphyte from the tropics is guzmania. She also loves bright light and high humidity, and looks no less beautiful: rastenija / guzmaniya-uhod-v-domashnih-usloviyah.html
In the rainforests, Escinentus has chosen elevations; it settles on trees, snags and stones
The name eskhinantus appeared due to the shape of the flowers, they look like they were turned upside down. From Greek aischyneia anthos is translated as a distorted flower.
These habits have not changed at home. Household species of eshinanthus are most often grown as ampelous plants. Shoots, covered with small villi as well as other parts of the plant, are equipped with leathery leaves with a waxy coating, oval and pointed at the end. In most species, the color is monophonic - different shades of green, but there are also mottled ones with a red underside.
On the drooping shoots of eschinanthus, the flower brushes are directed almost vertically upwards
Orange-red or red tassels bloom at the ends of the shoots from June to September, each peeping from a rather wide purplish-brown cup of bract. They are often compared to an open tube of red lipstick. Tubular flowers with long white, yellow or pink stamens and an outstanding pestle have an unusual, as if inverted shape. And the brushes do not droop, but stretch up.
The curved tubular flowers of eshinanthus have long stamens and pistils, due to which the plant is easily pollinated
Aeschinantus looks and habits are very similar to another Tropicana - Column. But they can be distinguished by the shape of the flowers. In the columnia, the upper fused petals form a kind of a lowered hood. In eschinanthus flowers, this feature is less pronounced, their “hood” is raised. In addition, in the columna, solitary flowers are located throughout the shoot, and in the eschinanthus - brushes only at the ends. More about columnier: rastenija / kolumneya-uhod-v-domashnih-usloviyah.html
For home conditions, eskhinantus is considered a complex plant. He has a controversial character. For example, a photophilous flower can get sick from direct sunlight. He prefers high humidity, but with a cool content, this leads to decay of the stem. Heat-loving handsome man after wintering at high temperature may refuse to bloom.
Florists are afraid that they can’t cope with the cultivation of a whimsical eskhinantus, but these difficulties are greatly exaggerated
But all these contradictions are not a problem for an experienced florist. Many of them say that this flower is quite hardy and patient. It is not very difficult to understand the whims of eschinanthus to those who grow hoya, columnae or hypocytes. These plants need almost the same conditions and care. And together they will create an exotic atmosphere of the tropics in an ordinary apartment.
Indoor species and plant varieties
The genus eskhinantusov is a member of the Gesnerievs plant family and has more than 80 species of climbing shrubs and shrubs. However, only a few species began to grow as indoor. The most popular eschinanthus are beautiful, beautiful, Lobba, marble and varieties derived from them. Unpretentious hybrids are now bred, which differ not only in the brightness of inflorescences, but also in decorative leaves.
- Aeschinanthus is magnificent, but he is beautiful - an islet growing on the Malay archipelago. In the wild, it is an epiphyte. At room conditions, it is grown in the form of an ampel plant. Reddish stems, reaching half a meter or more, hang picturesquely. With age, they become covered with bark. The leaves are rather large (10 cm), fleshy and bright green up to 10 cm. Peduncles consist of 6-10 buds. In yellow flowers near the base and red flowers on top, petals fused into a long (about 8 cm) tube.
- Beautiful eschinanthus, in contrast to the beautiful, has smaller leaves and flowers. This plant forms a more compact bush. Its shoots are rarely longer than half a meter. But in flower brushes 10-12 bright scarlet buds.
- Aeschinantus Lobba - a species that until recently, before the advent of new varieties, was one of the most popular in indoor breeding. On half-meter shoots there are small (4 cm) stiff leaves, green with a purple edge. Deep red flowers peek out from purple bracts. They are so reminiscent of lipstick.
- Rock eskhinantus is a rare and unusual species. It has narrower leaves compared to other varieties, wavy along the edge and slightly resemble oak. Single flowers on long petioles of pale lilac color.
- Eschinanthus marble is appreciated for the large (10 cm) variegated foliage. On top of the sheet is a dark green plate painted with light stripes. And the bottom with a purplish-brown or purple pattern. However, the plant blooms modestly, greenish buds are not very noticeable against the background of rich foliage.
- Mona Lisa is a common variety of eschinanthus. It is considered one of the most unpretentious. A rapidly growing ampoule bush with leathery leaves. The flowers are curved, saturated scarlet.
- Aeschinantus Twister is a hybrid variety characterized by decorative greenery. The leaf plate is so strongly curved that the shoots appear curly. The flowering of this plant is also picturesque. Among the bright green foliage, orange-red flowers appear.
- Carolina is an eschinanthus with large (length 8 cm, width 6 cm) leaves. Glass of bract elongated dark wine color, red flowers with a light pharynx.
- New Guinea is a variety characterized by the color of leaves and flowers. This eschinanthus has a brighter shade of green, and the inflorescences are pale pink with greenish cups.
- Tricolor is an eschinanthus variety with rounded small leaves. Its main charm is striped tiger inflorescences. A relatively short red flower is covered with longitudinal burgundy lines, and the stamens and pestle are yellow.
- The Purple Star variety is an unassuming hybrid with erect, rather than drooping shoots. The cup is small, light green, the flower is large in the color of red wine with dark pink stamens.
- Big Apple is a modern miniature variety that can be grown not only as an ampelous, but also as a direct bushy plant. On the shoots are narrowish small leaves with a pointed end. The flowering is magnificent. Inflorescences of a traditional red eschinanthus hue.
- Coral Flame is a compact eskhinantus, its shoots are no more than 25 cm long. The stems descend in an elegant cascade. Light green small leaves of rounded shape, wavy. Coral pink flowers are located along the entire length of the shoots.
- Aeschinanthus Lobianus Variegata is a variegated variety. Creeping shoots, hard leaves decorated with white stripes. Red brushes are located at the ends of the stems.
- Eskhinantus Thailand is a very elegant motley variety. Large leaves are colored in the middle in different shades of green, and the edges are white. The bush is small.
Beautiful, beautiful, marble and other varieties and varieties of eshinanthus in the photo gallery.
- Eschinanthus New Guinea with pink colors
- Aeschinanthus marble love for decorative leaves, and its flowers are not so good
- Eskhinantus Mona Lisa is recognized as a less whimsical variety
- Eshinantus Lobba - small leaves and the most elongated bracts
- Aeschinanthus is beautiful a little more modest in size than a magnificent
- Eschinanthus Carolina with purplish-red inflorescences
- Aeschinanthus magnificent possesses large and bright colors
- Eschinanthus Purple Star can be grown as a vertical bush
- Eschinanthus Big Apple variety blooms very luxuriantly
- Eschinantus Tricolor with Striped Flowers
- Aeschinantus Twister - these are unusual curly leaves and red flowers
- Aeschinantus rocky - a rare, but very interesting species
- Eskhinantus Thailand is a compact plant with decorative foliage
- Aeschinanthus Lobianus Variegata - variegated foliage and red flower brushes
- Eschinanthus Coral Flame is distinguished by delicate pink inflorescences.
Video: acquaintance with the eskhinantus Mona Lisa
Conditions in nature and at home
Aeschinanthus is an inhabitant of the rainforest. And at home, he is faithful to habits acquired in nature. He still tends to the sun, prefers moist and warm, without sudden changes in temperature, air. But he is ready to live the winter in coolness and will be content with poor watering. So, when creating a climate for eschinanthus, take into account the natural conditions to which he is accustomed, and there will be no problems with growth and flowering.
Table: conditions for eschinanthus
|Spring||The bright, best place for eschinanthus is near the western and eastern windows, while the southern ones need a little shading, especially at noon. Most of the light needs marble. Other varieties grow well in partial shade, but then there may be problems with flowering.|| High, 60–70% or more. Humidify the air in all available ways (double pot, expanded clay or moss tray, indoor fountains, electric humidifiers).|
Spray leaves and stems more often, in hot weather, at least twice a day.
During flowering, try to ensure that water does not fall on the buds and flowers.
|Moderate, at least +18 degrees.|
Keep away from drafts, remove from the window during ventilation.
|Summer||Bright, scattered. Protect from the midday sun.|| Moderate or increased, optimally + 20–25 degrees.|
Can be placed on a warm balcony or porch. Do not take out to fresh air. Fragile stems can be damaged by the wind.
Do not touch the plant that laid the buds. Aeschinanthus does not like a change of place at this time.
|Winter||Bright, with a short daylight needs artificial lighting. If there is a lot of light, it can bloom in the winter.||If the temperature is lowered, does not need much moisture.|
The warmer the room, the higher the humidity should be. Spray the plant, moisten the air in other ways.
Do not place the flower near heating appliances.
|Cool, 16-18 degrees. But not lower than +15.|
This is important for bookmarking buds.
From sudden changes in temperature, the flower can get sick. Hypothermia of the root system leads to leaf fall and rot.
Florists are advised twice a year, before and after flowering, to bathe an eshinanthus. Fill a large container with warm (approximately 40 degrees) water. Dip the plant with a pot and keep in water for up to 40 minutes. They say that after taking the bath, the eschinanthus blooms better, and the autumn procedure tempers it.
Aeschinanthus and florarium
In an ordinary apartment, tropical plants are most affected by dry air. It’s most difficult to create a humid atmosphere for them, especially if there is no time to constantly spray green pets. In this case, the home greenhouse - florarium will help. It is easy to maintain the desired microclimate with a constant temperature and high humidity. Compact bushes of new eschinanthus varieties can be grown in an open florarium - a transparent container, for example, an aquarium where the same moisture-loving flowers grow.
For example, monstera is also famous for its love of plentiful watering: rastenija / monstera-uchimsya-pravilno-uxazhivat-za-tropicheskoj-lianoj.html
For ampelous eschinanthus, you need a fairly large florarium
However, large ampelous plants cannot be placed in a small aquarium garden. For them, the so-called green showcase, or window, is suitable. It looks transparent "aviary", filled with green inhabitants of the tropics, very original and decorative. But such a structure is not easy to do. You will need equipment for watering, ventilation, lighting and bottom heating.
All about transplant
Young eschinanthus are usually transplanted every year, on the eve of awakening, in the spring. But an adult plant grows better in a cramped pot and does not like the change of the pot too much. Therefore, replant 3-4-year-old specimens only when the need has ripened, if the roots have braided the entire earth and have grown into drainage holes, and the flower has stopped developing. When the plant is healthy and does not need replacing the soil, it is better to transship so as not to disturb the roots.
Recently purchased eschinanthus should be transplanted immediately if the pot is very small, poor quality soil or the flower is sick. But if the plant looks satisfied, wait with the transplant until spring.
Escinanthus is most often grown in the form of ampelous flowers.
Take a new eschinanthus pot 2-3 cm wider than before. Large capacity will slow down flowering. Even adult plants feel great in pots with a diameter of about 18 cm. Hanging or wall-mounted flowerpots and baskets are suitable for ampelous eschinanthus, they will allow its shoots to hang comfortably. An ordinary pot will also work if you plan to place it on a high stand or grow a bush on a support.
New eschinanthus varieties can be grown as erect bushes
In nature, eskhinantus leads an epiphyte or semi-epiphytic lifestyle, so at home he needs a very airy and porous soil substrate. So that the roots receive enough air and do not suffer from stagnation of moisture. Variants of the soil mixture:
- ready soil for orchids or bromiel;
- equally sheet land, peat, perlite, coconut fiber;
- one part of soil for succulents, perlite, cut sphagnum and half of vermiculite with the addition of charcoal;
- half of the sheet land and peat, half the sphagnum moss and coarse sand;
- in equal proportions a mixture of peat and leaf soil, perlite and coconut fiber.
A drainage layer must be required! It will help to remove excess water from sensitive roots and protect them from decay.
How to transplant Escinanthus
- Disinfect all components of the substrate for planting: calcine, steam or treat with fungicide.
- At the bottom of the pot with holes pour drainage (small expanded clay, pebbles, brick chips). Above is a little soil mixture.
- Remove the eschinanthus from the old tank without breaking the earthen lump. Install it in a new pot. If you plan to grow a plant with a support, put it right away.
- Sprinkle the substrate between the wall of the pot and the earthen lump, tamping a little. Pay attention to the support reinforcement.
- Water the plant, you can spray it, place in diffused light or in partial shade.
- After a week, when the eskhinantus gets used to it, move it to a more illuminated place.
Most eschinanthus species grow quite rapidly. Their drooping shoots do not need support if the plant lives in a hanging planter or in a pot on a stand. But modern varieties began to grow more often in the form of bushy forms. Stems that are elastic in youth become brittle over time. They are easy to damage. To prevent this from happening, the plant will need support.
Eschinanthus can be grown with support, so you get a tall bush
Ideally, it should be installed during planting or transplanting plants directly in the pot. To do this, you can use arches or circular structures made of twigs or lattices made of bamboo and other materials.
Escinanthus shoots must be carefully wrapped around the arch and tied up
Aeschinantus will not rise on a support; his shoots must be tied up or wrapped around you yourself. This should be done carefully, especially bending the stems. They are very fragile. Florists noticed that most often plants curl better counterclockwise.
Eskhinantus is not easy to care for, as those who did not grow this flower say. And lovers of this tropical beauty can argue with this opinion. It will be easy to care for him if you indulge his inclinations and if you already grow epiphytes from the southern edges.
The purity of the leathery leaves is very important for eschinanthus. They must be wiped with a damp cloth, so that the plant breathes better, to increase humidity and decorativeness. And spraying spend soft, demineralized water, then there will be no white spots and stains.
Watering and feeding
When watering the eschinanthus, follow the rule: underfilling is better than overfilling. A plant with thick succulent leaves can survive a short drought, but waterlogging of the soil almost always causes illness or even death.
Eschinanthus is sensitive to the quality of water; for watering and spraying it must be soft and warm.
Between watering, the topsoil must necessarily dry out so that air can penetrate the roots. In summer, water the eschinanthus as soon as it is discovered, most likely, it will turn out 2-3 times a week. In winter, pause: 2-3 days of dryness will be appropriate, especially in cool air. If the plant is kept warm, you need to water a little more. And be sure to drain the water from the pan. Excess moisture at the roots will not lead to anything good.
For watering, prepare soft (melt, filtered, aquarium, settled) water, the Tropican does not like salt. Like cold moisture. Irrigation water should be slightly warmer than the temperature in the room.
Florists are advised to use peat to soften the water. Take a piece of about 100 grams, wrap in gauze and immerse in a container of water (about 2 liters). After a day, get a bag of peat, water for irrigation is ready.
When the eschinanthus is actively growing and blooming, it is fed twice a month. But zealous with food is not worth it. Some deficiency of feeding is more useful than its excess. Using mineral complexes for flowering plants, dilute them a little more than in the instructions. Pour the nutrient solution only on moistened soil to prevent root burns.
Flowering must be supported by dressing, but dilute the fertilizer more than the instructions
Young eschinanthus usually blooms without any problems. But in the next season may show character and not build buds. It can be quite difficult to understand why the plant is capricious.Recent entries In April, I process roses so that no pests encroach on my beauties
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Young eschinanthus bloom without being capricious, difficulties may appear with age
Reasons for reluctance to bloom, ways to please the plant:
- lack of light, bright and long enough lighting, even in winter, is one of the most important conditions for flowering;
- the soil is too poor, try to feed the eshinanthus with potassium and phosphorus fertilizer for flowering;
- too large a pot, in such a plant will grow roots and leaves, and only after that - flowers;
- winter is too warm, coolness helps laying flower buds;
- low humidity in summer; hot and dry air can make the eschinanthus drop buds, spray it more often;
- stress from a change of place, do not touch the plant if buds appear;
- растение заросло, стебли постарели, бутоны у большинства разновидностей эсхинантуса появляются на конце побега и только один раз, поэтому после окончания цветения нужна освежающая стрижка.
Цветы — награда за заботу и терпение
Некоторые цветоводы уверяют, что, кроме объективных причин отказа от цветения, есть субъективные. Казалось бы, всё, что требуется, выполнено, а растение без цветов. Значит, эсхинантусу не хватает общения. Поговорите с ним, и бутоны появятся, советуют знатоки растительного мира.
Влажный воздух и хорошее освещение хорошо подходят для выращивания мимозы стыдливой. Подробнее об этом экзотическом растении читайте:rastenija/mimoza-styidlivaya-uhod-v-domashnih-usloviyah.html
Покой и подсветка
Эсхинантусу для развития и качественного цветения необходим прохладный (16–18 градусов) период покоя зимой. В это время значительно ограничьте полив и влажность воздуха. И следите, чтобы не было сквозняков, и корни цветка не мёрзли. Держите растение подальше от открытых форточек и горячих батарей.
При искусственной досветке в тёплом помещении эсхинантус может зацвести даже зимой
В период покоя эсхинантусу нужно много света, не меньше 14 часов в день. Его можно поместить поближе к южному окну, и при помощи искусственной подсветки увеличить продолжительность светового дня. Для подсветки необходимо установить люминесцентные, светодиодные или специальные фитолампы (Флора, Рефлакс).
Эсхинантус, который растёт как ампельное растение, не нуждается в формирующей обрезке. Но санитарная и омолаживающая нужны обязательно. После цветения побеги укорачивают, чтобы простимулировать закладку бутонов в будущем. После зимнего отдыха надо убрать подсохшие, слишком вытянутые или голые стебли, а также потерявшие декоративность листья. Прищипка верхушек помогает росту боковых побегов. Но будьте внимательны: не удалите бутоны, иначе лишите эсхинантус цветов.
Менее привередлив в уходе другой тропический гость – пахистахис :rastenija/pahistahis-uhod-v-domashnih-usloviyah.html
Ошибки ухода (таблица)
|Yellow spots on the leaves.||Ожоги, вызванные избытком солнца.||Весной и летом притеняйте эсхинантус в полдень. Слишком интенсивное солнце в жару обжигает листья.|
|Эсхинантус сбрасывает листву.||Переувлажнение почвы, возможно, в сочетании с низкой температурой или сквозняком.|
Летом, возможно, пересыхание земляного кома.
|Соблюдайте режим полива, дайте почве просохнуть, но не высушивайте её полностью. Чем холоднее в помещении, тем меньше требуется влаги цветку.|
|Рост стеблей стал медленнее, листья бледнеют.||Дефицит питательных веществ.||Пересадите эсхинантус в новый, более питательный субстрат или регулярно удобряйте.|
|Листья сморщиваются, со временем погибают.||Растение переохладили. Ещё одна причина — частый полив холодной водой.||Перенесите растение в тёплое место, поливайте подогретой водой, чуть выше комнатной температуры.|
|Кончики и края листьев подсыхают.||Слишком жаркий и сухой воздух.||Опрыскивайте растение, увлажняйте воздух по-другому. Зимой не держите у отопительных приборов.|
|У пёстрых разновидностей листья становятся однотонно зелёными.||Не хватает света.||Поставьте растение в солнечное место, зимой включайте подсветку.|
Видео: особенности ухода за эсхинантусом
Болезни и вредители эсхинантуса (таблица)
|Как проявляется?||Кто или что вредит?||What to do? How to avoid?|
|Листья покрываются желтоватыми пятнами и точками, иногда на растении заметна белая паутина.||Spider mite.||Обмойте эсхинантус в душе, обязательно прикрыв почву плёнкой. Опрыскайте системным инсектицидом: фитофермом актелликом или деррисом. Профилактика — увлажнение воздуха, карантин для новых растений.|
|Твёрдые бляшки коричневого цвета понизу листьев и на стеблях.||Щитовка.||Насекомых удалите вручную, после растение обработайте раствором инсектицида. Процедуру повторите через 2 недели. Обрабатывайте, пока вредителя не уничтожите полностью.|
|Комочки, напоминающие белый пух, на листьях и стеблях.||Мучнистый червец.||Влажной тканью удалите насекомых, опрыскайте растение слабым раствором спирта или инсектицида.|
|Часть побегов становится мягкой, покрывается пятнами, загнивает.||Серая гниль стеблей — грибковое заболевание.||Грибок очень быстро размножается и убивает растение. При сильном распространении его не лечат, а уничтожают, чтобы не заразить остальные. В начальной стадии попробуйте помочь, удалите поражённые ткани, присыпьте эти места активированным углём. Обработайте растение фундазолом.|
Профилактика: не переувлажняйте почву, особенно при низкой температуре, проветривайте помещение.
|Leaves brighten, turn yellow, white spots appear on them.||This is chlorosis. The process of photosynthesis is disrupted. Infectious chlorosis is caused by viruses and fungi.||Treat the plant with a phytoferm several times with an interval of 3-4 days. Feed the eschinanthus, as a rule, weakened plants are ill.|
To prevent chlorosis, spray the leaves with an iron chelate (antichlorosine).
The folk way is a rusty nail buried in the ground.
Most often, eshinanthus is propagated by cuttings - this is the most simple and effective way. It is possible to root shoots and leaves with equal success, as well as use various substrates for planting them.
Cuttings of shoots
- In spring, cut the cuttings from the tops of last year's shoots (8-10 cm each). Each should have at least 2 internodes, and preferably 3-4.
For cuttings, it is better to take one-year-old shoots
- Remove the lower leaves. Treat the cuttings with phytohormone (Epin, Zircon, others).
- Fill the container with a mixture of peat and sand, moisten.
- Deepen the cuttings to the bottom sheet, gently ram the substrate, leaving no voids.
Root needs a nutrient-poor substrate
- Cover the seedlings with a film, a bag or a jar or put in a greenhouse (ideally, with lower heating).
- Place in a bright and warm (+ 20–25 degrees) place.
- Humidify and ventilate the plantings regularly.
- When new leaves begin to appear, transplant the cuttings into small (7–10 cm) pots with nutritious soil; 3-4 pieces can be used to make the bush more magnificent. Pinch the top of the head.
Plant cuttings 2-4 in one pot so that the bush grows lush
- Young plants usually bloom after a year.
Rooting without land
Prepare the cuttings as described above and root them in a landless mixture. Mix perlite, vermiculite and peat equally (1: 1: 1). Arrange a greenhouse. When the roots appear, transplant into light nutrient soil.
Cuttings root well in a landless mixture
It is effective to root small cuttings in a mixture of large perlite and sphagnum moss (1: 2 ratio). Pour the substrate into a plastic cup, moisten, deepen the stalk to the bottom leaves. Put in a greenhouse or under another glass. The substrate must maintain moisture constantly. After rooting the eschinanthus, transplant it into the soil without removing moss and perlite.
Rooting a leaf with a kidney
If there are no shoots that can be used for propagation, or an eschinanthus of a rare variety, try to root one leaf with a kidney.
- Use a sharp knife to cut the leaf with the kidney.
- Dip in fungicide and sprinkle the cut with charcoal powder.
- Dry for 2-3 hours.
- Plant in moist, coarse river sand.
- Cover with a bag (glass) or place in a greenhouse.
- Young shoots from the kidney will appear in 4-6 weeks, not earlier.
Eschinanthus can be grown from a leaf with a kidney
Reproduction by seeds is much more difficult. Although it is quite possible to get fruits and seeds at home. The plant self-pollinates, and after the flower withers, fleecy long pods are formed.
Eschinanthus seeds are not difficult to obtain, but rarely grow flowers from them
To prevent small seeds from scattering, it is recommended that the fruit be placed in a bag before ripening. But the sowing campaign most often does not give a positive result, the seeds do not germinate, or the seedlings die. Therefore, grafting, we can say, is the only method of propagation of eshinanthus at home.
I have eskhinantus just huge! and fluffy and long. and for such a monster as you write, the pot is quite small, but he drinks tons of water simply! really hard with so much. And when I just bought it, brought it home and put it on the table, due to its weight and length it fell on the floor, a couple of branches broke off, I immediately took to root them ... for fidelity, a couple through the water, and a couple immediately into the ground under glass. Everything was accepted, so now everyone who comes to visit them squint at them and ask for processes;) honestly, I’m very glad that I discovered this color for myself - a very ornamental plant! both in bloom and without it!
Only here on the forum I found out that eskhinantusy are whims. I found my wilted stalk on the floor in a flower shop (probably cut off during the sale), rooted in water and planted in the ground for violets. Grows on the north window in the kitchen. In two years it has turned into a lush, often flowering plant.
Aeschinantus Mona Lisa. I hold it for a very long time. That's what I noticed. He needs a cramped pot, it will bloom faster and easier. In large, it will take root for a long time to cultivate the earth, to give new shoots from the earth !, and the branches that are already available will grow of unlimited length. And until it grows, it does not lay buds. In a cramped pot, everything happens faster - it blooms on fairly short branches. New ones coming from the earth also bloom earlier, without growing long lashes. True, due to long lashes in large pots, each branch blooms longer. Despite the fact that, in principle, eshinanthus bloom at the ends of the shoots, my M.L. in a large pot thrives throughout the whip.
I will tell you about my many years of practice in communicating with eskhinantusami. About spraying - I don’t spray my plants at all for two years. All adapted, live, bloom, buds do not shower, etc. Low temperature for planting buds. Not necessary. For column - yes. For eskhinantusov - a cramped pot or long branches (I already wrote about this here). Rooted by any cuttings, and not apical and lignified. Moreover, it is easy, right in the water. Only today I was planting a huge number of trimmings, there are already not enough pots, all with roots. Without any greenhouses. To accept from direct sunshine. Leaves burn out. The soil is dried, but it is not advisable to do this, that's for sure, but the bay is very critical.
Aeschinanthus marble. Although they say that he has unprepossessing flowers, I really, really like them. So tender. I bought it in markdown, cut the lashes, which were more or less alive, and put them in a jar of water. When the tiny roots appeared, she planted everything in a pot. It was in mid-September, and in early November, buds appeared.
Aeschinantus Mona Lisa. They gave it to me blossoming. After flowering, I didn’t prune, it was so hot, and pruning is MANDATORY. Some of the whips are dry, some are bald. As a result, we have VERY sparse flowering. After flowering, I cut to zero.
Generally eshinanthus pruned in the spring. I pruned mine after flowering, because it always bloomed in the winter with me. Now you can cut off everything that you don’t like and place it in a warm, bright room for growing lashes. Then in the cool for laying flower stalks. And root first in the water, it's easier. I saw the roots and put them into the hut without greenhouses and packages.
I do not make exhinanthus a rest period. When they lose their decorativeness (flies around the foliage and grow bald) I cut off these bald shoots, after which they clump well. Previously, they lived on windows in hanging planters and, even with a lack of light, autumn-winter, they filled buds, never used them for lighting. Now they run amok in my greenhouse, I even have violets without illumination, the lighting that nature provides is enough. If you have a loggia or the ability to keep cool it can give good stimulation for laying buds, otherwise you will have to feed it so that it blooms. keep cool neatly with watering so as not to flood your plants.
Eschinanthus until a good root grows, they sit for a while, so I root 3-4 cm in small transparent stems with small cuttings of 3-4 cm. Observing the roots, I increase the volume to 200 g, then pot No. 8, 9. Eshinanthus adults I put in hanging pots No. 15-17, for larger and heavier specimens (I mean by weight) up to 22 cm in diameter, but with a good root .
Aeschinanthus is a plant with character. This luxurious handsome man needs to pay a lot of attention and know how to properly care for him. Otherwise, there will be health problems, and instead of lush floral hair you will get bare dull twigs. Although there is nothing very complicated in caring for this Tropican. Just treat his habits with respect: observe the watering regime, give enough light and nutrition, moisturize the air. To one who is patient and caring, the eskhinantus will show himself in all its glory.